化妆品功效评价(Ⅷ)—— 3D皮肤模型在化妆品功效评价中的应用

doi:10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2018.09.002

摘要/Abstract

摘要： 概述了3D皮肤模型在化妆品功效评价中的应用,对3D皮肤模型的类型以及基于各种3D皮肤模型的主要体外功效检测方法进行了介绍。3D表皮模型由角质形成细胞构成,用于皮肤屏障、保湿、抗炎、UV防护、经皮吸收等功效性检测;3D黑素皮肤模型由角质形成细胞和黑素细胞构成,主要用于美白功效检测;3D全层皮肤模型由角质形成细胞和成纤维细胞构成,主要用于抗衰功效检测。基于3D皮肤模型,可获得多维度检测结果,实现对化妆品受试物功效的综合评价。

关键词: 化妆品功效评价, 3D皮肤模型, 体外检测, 皮肤屏障, 美白, 抗衰

Abstract: The application of 3D reconstructed skin models in cosmetics efficacy evaluation was summarized.Types of 3D reconstructed skin models,and main in vitro efficacy evaluation methods based on these innovative models were introduced.The 3D reconstructed epidermis model is developed from keratinocytes and mainly used to test the efficacy such as skin barrier function,moisturizing,anti-inflammatory,UV protection,and skin penetration.The 3D reconstructed pigmented skin model is composed of keratinocytes and melanocytes,which is mainly used for skin whitening efficacy testing.Moreover,the 3D full-thickness skin model is composed of keratinocytes and fibroblasts,and widely used to study anti-aging efficacy.With these 3D skin models,multi-dimensional detection results can be obtained to achieve a comprehensive evaluation of the cosmetic efficacy.

Key words: cosmetic efficacy evaluation, 3D reconstructed skin models, in vitro test, skin barrier, whitening, anti-aging

中图分类号:

TQ658

李潇, 张晓娥, 卢永波, 金岩. 化妆品功效评价(Ⅷ)—— 3D皮肤模型在化妆品功效评价中的应用[J]. 日用化学工业, 2018, 48(9): 489-494.

LI Xiao, ZHANG Xiao-e, LU Yong-bo, JIN Yan. Efficacy evaluation of cosmetics (Ⅷ) The application of 3D reconstructed skin models in the evaluation of cosmetic efficacy[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2018, 48(9): 489-494.

参考文献

[1] Tannenbaum J,Bennett B T.Russell and Burch's 3Rs then and now:The need for clarity in definition and purpose [J].Journal of the American Association for Laboratory Animal Science,2015,54(2):120-132.
[2] Huh D,Hamilton G A,Ingber D E.From 3D cell culture to organs-on-chips [J].Trends in Cell Biology,2011,21(12):745-754.
[3] Jin Yan.Principles and protocols of tissue engineering [M].Xi'an:The Fourth Military Medical University Press:2004.
[4] Jin Yan.Tissue engineering and regenerative medicine [M].Beijing:People's Medical Publishing House (PMPH):2014.
[5] Poumay Y,Coquette A.Modelling the human epidermis in vitro:tools for basic and applied research [J].Archives of Dermatological Research,2007,298(8):361-369.
[6] Ponec M,Gibbs S,Pilgram G,et al.Barrier function in reconstructed epidermis and its resemblance to native human skin [J].Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology,2001,14:63-71.
[7] Cario-Andre M,Bessou S,Gontier E,et al.The reconstructed epidermis with melanocytes:A new tool to study pigmentation and photoprotection [J].Cellular and Molecular Biology,1999,45(7):931-942.
[8] Bessou S,Surlevebazeille J E,Sorbier E,et al.Ex vivo reconstruction of the epidermis with melanocytes and the influence of UVB [J].Pigment Cell Research,1995,8(5):241-249.
[9] Nakamura M,Haarmann-Stemmann T,Krutmann J,et al.Alternative test models for skin ageing research [J].Experimental Dermatology,2018,27(5):495-500.
[10] Madison K C.Barrier function of the skin:“La raison d'tre” of the epidermis [J].Journal of Investigative Dermatology,2003,121(2):231-241.
[11] Elias P M.Epidermal lipids,barrier function,and desquamation [J].Journal of Investigative Dermatology,1983,80:S44-S49.
[12] Elias P M,Gruber R,Crumrine D,et al.Formation and functions of the corneocyte lipid envelope (CLE) [J].Biochimica Et Biophysica Acta-Molecular and Cell Biology of Lipids,2014,1841(3):314-318.
[13] Proksch E,Brandner J M,Jensen J M.The skin:an indispensable barrier [J].Experimental Dermatology,2008,17(12):1063-1072.
[14] Kalinin A E,Kajava A V,Steinert P M.Epithelial barrier function:assembly and structural features of the cornified cell envelope [J].Bioessays,2002,24(9):789-800.
[15] Brown S J,Mclean W H I.One remarkable molecule:filaggrin [J].Journal of Investigative Dermatology,2012,132(3):751-762.
[16] Mcgrath J A,Uitto J.The filaggrin story:novel insights into skin-barrier function and disease [J].Trends in Molecular Medicine,2008,14(1):20-27.
[17] Yaffe M B,Beegen H,Eckert R L.Biophysical characterization of involucrin reveals a molecule ideally suited to function as an intermo lecular cross-bridge of the keratinocyte cornified envelope [J].Journal of Biological Chemistry,1992,267(17):12233-12238.
[18] Hohl D,Mehrel T,Lichti U,et al.Characterization of human loricrin-structure and function of a new class of epidermal-cell envelope proteins [J].Journal of Biological Chemistry,1991,266(10):6626-6636.
[19] Gruber R,Elias P M,Crumrine D,et al.Filaggrin genotype in ichthyosis vulgaris predicts abnormalities in epidermal structure and function [J].American Journal of Pathology,2011,178(5):2252-2263.
[20] Mildner M,Ballaun C,Stichenwirth M,et al.Gene silencing in a human organotypic skin model [J].Biochemical and Biophysical Research Communications,2006,348(1):76-82.
[21] Pendaries V,Malaisse J,Pellerin L,et al.Knockdown of filaggrin in a three-dimensional reconstructed human epidermis impairs keratinocyte differentiation [J].Journal of Investigative Dermatology,2014,134(12):2938-2946.
[22] Niehues H,Bouwstra J A,El Ghalbzouri A,et al.3D skin models for 3R research:The potential of 3D reconstructed skin models to study skin barrier function [J].Experimental Dermatology,2018,27(5):501-511.
[23] Schlotmann K,Kaeten M,Blacky A F,et al.Cosmetic efficacy claims in vitro using a three-dimensional human skin model [J].International Journal of Cosmetic Science,2001,23:309-318.
[24] Amano W,Nakajima S,Kunugi H,et al.The Janus kinase inhibitor JTE-052 improves skin barrier function through suppressing signal transducer and activator of transcription 3 signaling [J].Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology,2015,136(3):667-669.
[25] Motta S,Monti M,Sesana S,et al.Ceramide composition of the psoriatic scale [J].Biochimica Et Biophysica Acta,1993,1182(2):147-151.
[26] Masukawa Y,Narita H,Sato H,et al.Comprehensive quantification of ceramide species in human stratum corneum [J].Journal of Lipid Research,2009,50(8):1708-1719.
[27] Masukawa Y,Narita H,Shimizu E,et al.Characterization of overall ceramide species in human stratum corneum [J].Journal of Lipid Research,2008,49(7):1466-1476.
[28] Fartasch M,Ponec M.Improved barrier structure formation in air-exposed human keratinocyte culture systems [J].Journal of Investigative Dermatology,1994,102(3):366-374.
[29] Parnigotto P P,Bernuzzo S,Bruno P,et al.Characterization and applications of human epidermis reconstructed in vitro on de-epidermized derma [J].Farmaco,1998,53(2):125-131.
[30] Ponec M,Weerheim A,Kempenaar J,et al.The formation of competent barrier lipids in reconstructed human epidermis requires the presence of vitamin C [J].Journal of Investigative Dermatology,1997,109(3):348-355.
[31] Pappinen S,Hermansson M,Kuntsche J,et al.Comparison of rat epidermal keratinocyte organotypic culture (ROC) with intact human skin:Lipid composition and thermal phase behavior of the stratum corneum [J].Biochimica Et Biophysica Acta-Biomembranes,2008,1778(4):824-834.
[32] Ponec M,Boelsma E,Weerheim A,et al.Lipid and ultrastructural characterization of reconstructed skin models [J].International Journal of Pharmaceutics,2000,203(1/2):211-225.
[33] Grether-Beck S,Felsner I,Brenden H,et al.Urea uptake enhances barrier function and antimicrobial defense in humans by regulating epidermal gene expression [J].Journal of Investigative Dermatology,2012,132(6):1561-1572.
[34] Vavrova K,Henkes D,Struver K,et al.Filaggrin deficiency leads to impaired lipid profile and altered acidification pathways in a 3D skin construct [J].Journal of Investigative Dermatology,2014,134(3):746-753.
[35] Sougrat R,Morand M,Gondran C,et al.Functional expression of AQP3 in human skin epidermis and reconstructed epidermis [J].Journal of Investigative Dermatology,2002,118(4):678-685.
[36] Luu-The V,Duche D,Ferraris C,et al.Expression profiles of phases 1 and 2 metabolizing enzymes in human skin and the reconstructed skin models Episkin (TM) and full thickness model from Episkin (TM) [J].Journal of Steroid Biochemistry and Molecular Biology,2009,116:178-186.
[37] Bernerd F,Vioux C,Lejeune F,et al.The sun protection factor (SPF) inadequately defines broad spectrum photoprotection:demonstration using skin reconstructed in vitro exposed to UVA,UVB or UV-solar simulated radiation [J].European Journal of Dermatology,2003,13(3):242-249.
[38] Duval C,Schmidt R,Regnier M,et al.The use of reconstructed human skin to evaluate UV-induced modifications and sunscreen efficacy [J].Experimental Dermatology,2003,12:64-70.
[39] Videira I F D,Moura D F L,Magina S.Mechanisms regulating melanogenesis [J].Anais Brasileiros De Dermatologia,2013,88(1):76-83.
[40] Yamaguchi Y,Hearing V J.Physiological factors that regulate skin pigmentation [J].Biofactors,2009,35(2):193-199.
[41] Lee H S,Goh M J,Kim J,et al.A systems-biological study on the identification of safe and effective molecular targets for the reduction of ultraviolet B-induced skin pigmentation [J].Scientific Reports,2015,5:11.
[42] Zhu W Y,Gao J.The use of botanical extracts as topical skin-lightening agents for the improvement of skin pigmentation disorders [J].Journal of Investigative Dermatology Symposium Proceedings,2008,13(1):20-24.
[43] Gillbro J M,Olsson M J.The melanogenesis and mechanisms of skin-lightening agents-existing and new approaches [J].International Journal of Cosmetic Science,2011,33(3):210-221.
[44] Battie C,Jitsukawa S,Bernerd F,et al.New insights in photoaging,UVA induced damage and skin types [J].Experimental Dermatology,2014,23:7-12.
[45] Dobos G,Lichterfeld A,Blume-Peytavi U,et al.Evaluation of skin ageing:a systematic review of clinical scales [J].British Journal of Dermatology,2015,172(5):1249-1261.
[46] Rinnerthaler M,Bischof J,Streubel M K,et al.Oxidative stress in aging human skin [J].Biomolecules,2015,5(2):545-589.
[47] Diekmann J,Alili L,Scholz O,et al.A three-dimensional skin equivalent reflecting some aspects of in vivo aged skin [J].Experimental
Dermatology,2016,25(1):56-61.
[48] Yasin Z A M,Ibrahim F,Rashid N N,et al.The importance of some plant extracts as skin anti-aging resources:a review [J].Current Pharmaceutical Biotechnology,2017,18(11):864-876.
[49] Lorencini M,Brohem C A,Dieamant G C,et al.Active ingredients against human epidermal aging [J].Ageing Research Reviews,2014,15:100-115.
[50] Michelet J F,Olive C,Rieux E,et al.The anti-ageing potential of a new jasmonic acid derivative (LR2412):in vitro evaluation using reconstructed epidermis episkin ^(TM)[J].Experimental Dermatology,2012,21(5):398-400.