适应原植物在皮肤健康领域研究现状及展望

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.03.011

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

适应原植物是一类能非特异性地增强人体抵抗力的药用植物。目前对其内服起效研究较完善，但在皮肤外用上的作用功效及机制相关研究仍较少。本文基于文献计量学及专利分析，发现适应原植物作用于皮肤的功效聚焦于延缓衰老方面。并综合文献分析进一步推测其共性机理可能为直接作用于皮肤中促肾上腺皮质激素释放激素（CRH）参与的类中枢下丘脑-垂体-肾上腺轴（HPA轴）；或是直接作用于皮肤细胞中激活抗氧化防御系统，抑制氧化应激造成的细胞损伤。本研究能为适应原植物在皮肤健康领域中的应用提供理论基础。

关键词: 适应原植物, 皮肤健康, 抗衰老, 文献计量学

Abstract:

Adaptogenic plants are a class of medicinal plants that can non-specifically enhance human resistance, act in multiple ways and with multiple targets, and affect the neuro-endocrine-immune system. The species resources of adaptive plants are abundant. At present, there are relatively complete researches on the effect of its oral administration on the human body, but there are few studies providing its external useon the skin. Based on bibliometrics, patent analysis and mechanisms of efficacy of adaptogenic plants in cosmetic applications, this paper finds out that the effect of adaptogenic plants on the skin are mainly focusing on anti-aging. It is further speculated that the common mechanism may be the direct action on the skin, affecting the central HPA-like axis involved in CRH in the skin; or it can directly act on the antioxidant defense system in skin cells and inhibit cell damage caused by oxidative stress. This study can provide a theoretical basis for the application of adaptogenic plants in the field of skin health. And getting fully use of the wide variety of high-value adaptogenic plant resources is also conducive to the better development of the cosmetic industry in China.

Key words: adaptogenic plants, skin health, anti-aging, bibliometrics

中图分类号:

TQ658

刘小幸, 陈春宇, 李丽, 易帆. 适应原植物在皮肤健康领域研究现状及展望[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2023, 53(3): 325-332.

Liu Xiaoxing, Chen Chunyu, Li Li, Yi Fan. Research status and prospect of adaptogenic plants in skin health[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2023, 53(3): 325-332.

图/表 12

表1

表2

表3

图1

表4

图2

图3

图4

图5

图6

图7

表5

参考文献 44

[1]	Lazarev N V. General and specific effects of drugs[J]. Farmakologiia I Toksikologiia, 1958, 21 (3) : 81-86.
[2]	Lazarev N V, Liublina E I, Rozin M A. States of non-specific increased resistance[J]. Patologicheskaia Fiziologiia I Eksperimental’naia Terapiia, 1959, 3: 16-21.
[3]	Yi F, Peng Y, Liu H B, et al. A preliminary study on the progress of the research of adaptogenic medicinal plants[J]. Modern Chinese Medicine, 2017, 19 (1) : 135-141.
[4]	Liao L Y, He Y F, Li L, et al. A preliminary review of studies on adaptogens: comparison of their bioactivity in TCM with that of ginseng-like herbs used worldwide[J]. Chinese Medicine, 2018.
[5]	Meng H, Liu X K, Li J R, et al. Bibliometric analysis of the effects of ginseng on skin[J]. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2022, 21 (1).
[6]	Kopustinskiene D M, Bernatoniene J. Antioxidant effects of fruits and their active constituents[J]. Antioxidants (Basel, Switzerland), 2021, 10 (4).
[7]	Chiang H M, Chen H C, Wu C S, et al. Rhodiola plants: Chemistry and biological activity[J]. Journal of Food and Drug Analysis, 2015, 23 (3) : 359-369. doi: 10.1016/j.jfda.2015.04.007
[8]	Panossian A G, Efferth T, Shikov A N, et al. Evolution of the adaptogenic concept from traditional use to medical systems: Pharmacology of stress-and aging-related diseases[J]. Medicinal Research Reviews, 2021, 41 (1) : 630-703. doi: 10.1002/med.v41.1
[9]	Panossian A. Understanding adaptogenic activity: specificity of the pharmacological action of adaptogens and other phytochemicals[J]. Annals of the New York Academy of Sciences, 2017, 1401 (1) : 49-64. doi: 10.1111/nyas.13399 pmid: 28640972
[10]	Serhan C N, Levy B D. Resolvins in inflammation: emergence of the pro-resolving superfamily of mediators[J]. The Journal of Clinical Investigation, 2018, 128 (7) : 2657-2669. doi: 10.1172/JCI97943
[11]	Shipelin V A, Sidorova Y S. Oxylipins-biologically active substances of food[J]. Voprosy Pitaniia, 2020, 89 (6).
[12]	Nakai K, Tsuruta D. What are reactive oxygen species, free radicals, and oxidative stress in skin diseases?[J]. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 2021, 22 (19).
[13]	Rinnerthaler M, Bischof J, Streubel M K, et al. Oxidative stress in aging human skin[J]. Biomolecules, 2015, 5 (2) : 545-589. doi: 10.3390/biom5020545 pmid: 25906193
[14]	Trüeb R M. Oxidative stress and its impact on skin, scalp and hair[J]. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2021.
[15]	Pasparakis M. Role of NF-κB in epithelial biology[J]. Immunological Reviews, 2012, 246 (1) : 346-358. doi: 10.1111/j.1600-065X.2012.01109.x pmid: 22435565
[16]	Kumar J, Teoh S L, Das S, et al. Oxidative stress in oral diseases: understanding its relation with other systemic diseases[J]. Frontiers in Physiology, 2017, 8: 693. doi: 10.3389/fphys.2017.00693 pmid: 28959211
[17]	Harman D. Aging: a theory based on free radical and radiation chemistry[J]. Journal of Gerontology, 1956, 11 (3) : 298-300. doi: 10.1093/geronj/11.3.298
[18]	Kang T H, Park H M, Kim Y B, et al. Effects of red ginseng extract on UVB irradiation-induced skin aging in hairless mice[J]. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 2009, 123 (3) : 446-451. doi: 10.1016/j.jep.2009.03.022 pmid: 19501277
[19]	Kwok H H, Yue P Y K, Mak N K, et al. Ginsenoside Rb₁ induces type I collagen expression through peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor-delta[J]. Biochemical Pharmacology, 2012, 84 (4) : 532-539. doi: 10.1016/j.bcp.2012.05.023
[20]	Kim K. Effect of ginseng and ginsenosides on melanogenesis and their mechanism of action[J]. Journal of Ginseng Research, 2015, 39 (1) : 1-6. doi: 10.1016/j.jgr.2014.10.006 pmid: 25535470
[21]	Hossen M J, Hong Y D, Baek K S, et al. Antioxidative and anti-inflammatory effects of the compound K-rich fraction BIOGF1K, prepared from[J]. Journal of Ginseng Research, 2017, 41 (1) : 43-51. doi: 10.1016/j.jgr.2015.12.009
[22]	Baek K S, Hong Y D, Kim Y, et al. Anti-inflammatory activity of AP-SF, a ginsenoside-enriched fraction, from Korean ginseng[J]. Journal of Ginseng Research, 2015, 39 (2) : 155-161. doi: 10.1016/j.jgr.2014.10.004
[23]	Kim S, Kang B Y, Cho S Y, et al. Compound K induces expression of hyaluronan synthase 2 gene in transformed human keratinocytes and increases hyaluronan in hairless mouse skin[J]. Biochemical and Biophysical Research Communications, 2004, 316 (2) : 348-355. doi: 10.1016/j.bbrc.2004.02.046 pmid: 15020224
[24]	Bhargavi S, Madhan S S R. Dual herbal combination of Withania somnifera and five Rasayana herbs: A phytochemical, antioxidant, and chemometric profiling[J]. Journal of Ayurveda and Integrative Medicine, 2021, 12 (2) : 283-293. doi: 10.1016/j.jaim.2020.10.001 pmid: 33341338
[25]	Bungau S, Vesa C M, Abid A, et al. Withaferin A-A promising phytochemical compound with multiple results in dermatological diseases[J]. Molecules (Basel, Switzerland), 2021, 26 (9).
[26]	Sanap A, Chandravanshi B, Shah T, et al. Herbal pre-conditioning induces proliferation and delays senescence in Wharton’s Jelly Mesenchymal Stem Cells[J]. Biomedicine & pharmacotherapy = Biomedecine & Pharmacotherapie, 2017, 93: 772-778.
[27]	Balkrishna A, Nain P, Chauhan A, et al. Super critical fluid extracted fatty acids from seeds repair psoriasis-like skin lesions and attenuate pro-inflammatory cytokines (TNF-α and IL-6) release[J]. Biomolecules, 2020, 10 (2).
[28]	Bale S, Pulivendala G, Godugu C. Withaferin A attenuates bleomycin-induced scleroderma by targeting FoxO3a and NF-κB signaling: connecting fibrosis and inflammation[J]. BioFactors (Oxford, England), 2018, 44 (6) : 507-517. doi: 10.1002/biof.v44.6
[29]	Gao C, Chen H, Niu C, et al. Protective effect of Schizandrin B against damage of UVB irradiated skin cells depend on inhibition of inflammatory pathways[J]. Bioengineered, 2017, 8 (1) : 36-44. pmid: 27689692
[30]	Kim N, Lee S, Kang J, et al. Gomisin M2 alleviates psoriasis-like skin inflammation by inhibiting inflammatory signaling pathways[J]. Molecular Medicine Reports, 2021, 24 (6).
[31]	Lee J, Ryu H S, Kim J M, et al. Anti-melanogenic effect of gomisin N from schisandra chinensis (Turcz.) Baillon (schisandraceae) in melanoma cells[J]. Archives of Pharmacal Research, 2017, 40 (7) : 807-817. doi: 10.1007/s12272-017-0903-4 pmid: 28695326
[32]	Choi H R, Nam K M, Lee H S, et al. Phlorizin, an active ingredient of eleutherococcus senticosus, increases proliferative potential of keratinocytes with inhibition of MiR135b and increased expression of type Ⅳ collagen[J]. Oxidative Medicine and Cellular Longevity, 2016.
[33]	Kim Y H, Cho M L, Kim D B, et al. The antioxidant activity and their major antioxidant compounds from Acanthopanax senticosus and A. koreanum[J]. Molecules (Basel, Switzerland), 2015, 20 (7) : 13281-13295. doi: 10.3390/molecules200713281
[34]	Ahmed S, Moni D A, Sonawane K D, et al. A comprehensive exploration of pharmacological properties, bioactivities and COX-2 inhibitory potential of eleutheroside B from (Rupr. & Maxim.) Maxim[J]. Journal of Biomolecular Structure & Dynamics, 2021, 39 (17) : 6553-6566.
[35]	Yamazaki T, Shimosaka S, Sasaki H, et al. (+)-Syringaresinol-di-O-beta-D-glucoside, a phenolic compound from Acanthopanax senticosus Harms, suppresses proinflammatory mediators in SW982 human synovial sarcoma cells by inhibiting activating protein-1 and/or nuclear factor-kappaB activities[J]. Toxicology in Vitro: An International Journal Published in Association with BIBRA, 2007, 21 (8) : 1530-1537.
[36]	Calcabrini C, De Bellis R, Mancini U, et al. Rhodiola rosea ability to enrich cellular antioxidant defences of cultured human keratinocytes[J]. Archives of Dermatological Research, 2010, 302 (3) : 191-200. doi: 10.1007/s00403-009-0985-z pmid: 19705137
[37]	Mao G X, Xing W M, Wen X L, et al. Salidroside protects against premature senescence induced by ultraviolet B irradiation in human dermal fibroblasts[J]. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2015, 37 (3) : 321-328. doi: 10.1111/ics.12202 pmid: 25639473
[38]	Yang D W, Kang O H, Lee Y S, et al. Anti-inflammatory effect of salidroside on phorbol-12-myristate-13-acetate plus A23187-mediated inflammation in HMC-1 cells[J]. International Journal of Molecular Medicine, 2016, 38 (6) : 1864-1870. doi: 10.3892/ijmm.2016.2781
[39]	Wen K C, Chang C S, Chien Y C, et al. Tyrosol and its analogues inhibit alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone induced melanogenesis[J]. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 2013, 14 (12) : 23420-23440. doi: 10.3390/ijms141223420
[40]	Rassouli O, Liapakis G, Venihaki M. Role of central and peripheral CRH in skin[J]. Current Molecular Pharmacology, 2018, 11 (1) : 72-80. doi: 10.2174/1874467209666161026144219 pmid: 27784217
[41]	Chen Y, Lyga J. Brain-skin connection: stress, inflammation and skin aging[J]. Inflammation & Allergy Drug Targets, 2014, 13 (3) : 177-190.
[42]	Kono M, Nagata H, Umemura S, et al. In situ expression of corticotropin-releasing hormone (CRH) and proopiomelanocortin (POMC) genes in human skin[J]. FASEB Journal: Official Publication of the Federation of American Societies for Experimental Biology, 2001, 15 (12) : 2297-2299.
[43]	Slominski A, Wortsman J, Pisarchik A, et al. Cutaneous expression of corticotropin-releasing hormone (CRH), urocortin, and CRH receptors[J]. FASEB Journal: Official Publication of the Federation of American Societies for Experimental Biology, 2001, 15 (10) : 1678-1693. doi: 10.1096/fsb2.v15.10
[44]	Slominski A, Pisarchik A, Tobin D J, et al. Differential expression of a cutaneous corticotropin-releasing hormone system[J]. Endocrinology, 2004, 145 (2) : 941-950. pmid: 14605004

活性成分化学结构分类	代表性适应原植物	主要活性成分
具有四环骨架的化合物	人参、睡茄	人参皂苷、睡茄内酯
木脂素及其苷类	五味子、刺五加	五味子乙素、刺五加皂苷E
苯丙烷衍生物	红景天、刺五加	肉桂醇苷、紫丁香苷
苯乙烷衍生物	红景天	酪醇、红景天苷
消散素的结构类似物^[10]	玛卡^[11]	氧化脂质

适应原植物原料	化妆品产品	原料功效
人参	羽西人参塑颜御颜修护系列、雪花秀滋如珍人参凝时精华露、谷雨山参紧致凝时修护面霜	抗衰老
	美素日夜珍宠肌活再生人参精华液、丁家宜美白保湿去黄淡斑霜	美白
	飘柔人参滋养修护免洗柔顺乳、玛丽黛佳人参精华露	保湿
	吕滋养韧发密集强韧洗发水、章华防脱洗发乳	防脱发
睡茄	植绘睡茄修护眼精华液、美康粉黛密集修护精华液	抗氧化抗衰
五味子	后拱辰享水沄平衡系列、至本舒颜修护系列	抗氧化
刺五加	SK-Ⅱ赋活修护系列、黛珂AQ珍萃精颜系列	抗氧化
红景天	SK-Ⅱ多元焕颜精华霜、娇韵诗花样年华日间霜	抗衰老
红景天	宫灯红景天美肌系列	保湿

分类	检索词	Web of Science/篇	总计/篇
皮肤	Adaptogen+skin Adaptogen+dermatological	12 2	14
抗衰老	Adaptogen+aging Adaptogen+anti-oxidation Adaptogen+ROS	43 1 11	55
美白	Adaptogen+whitening	1	1
保湿	Adaptogen+moisture	2	2
敏感	Adaptogen+sensitivity	5	5

排序	国家	发文量
1	美国	10
2	瑞典	9
3	印度	9
4	韩国	5
5	德国	5

适应原植物	作用机制	作用于皮肤功效
人参	①通过PPARδ增加Ⅰ型胶原蛋白的表达；②降低MMP-1 mRNA或蛋白表达水平	抗衰老^[18,19]
	①抑制黑色素生成的关键酶（酪氨酸酶、DCT）；②抑制黑色素生成的信号通路（PKA、PKC）；③促进抗黑色素生成因子（IL-13）的产生	美白^[20]
	①通过阻断IKKβ下调NF-κB通路；②通过抑制TBK1下调IRF3通路；③下调诱导型NO合成酶、TNF-α、COX基因表达水平	抗炎^[21,22]
	①诱导HAS1上调和HA生成	保湿^[23]
睡茄	①清除自由基；②促进DNA合成和细胞增殖，下调p21水平	抗氧化^[24?-26]
睡茄	①减少促炎细胞因子（TNF-α和IL-6）释放；②调节Fox03a-Akt依赖性NF-κB/IKK介导的炎症级联反应，抑制TGF-β/Smad信号转导	抗炎^[27,28]
五味子	①抑制ROS的产生；②激活抗氧化防御系统；③抑制促氧化酶活性；④阻断Ca²⁺通道，影响线粒体功能，防止细胞死亡	抗衰老^[6]
	①抑制COX-2，IL-6和IL-18炎症信号通路；②降低血清TNF-α水平；③抑制NF-κB信号转导通路	抗炎^[29,30]
	①抑制酪氨酸酶活性和MITF表达水平	美白^[31]
刺五加	①抑制MiR135b和增加Ⅳ型胶原表达，增加角质形成细胞的增殖潜能；②具有抗自由基抗氧化活性	抗衰老^[32,33]
刺五加	①抑制COX-2活性；②抑制AP-1和NF-κB的活性	抗炎^[34,35]
红景天	①时间、剂量依赖性地增加氧化还原酶活性；②抗氧化，抑制MMP-1产生	抗衰老^[36,37]
	①修复皮肤屏障功能，减少透皮失水（TWEL）；②抑制IL-6、IL-8、TNF和NF-κB的表达	抗炎^[7,38]
	①抑制酪氨酸酶活性，减少黑色素生成	美白^[39]