从细胞自清洁到皮肤健康化：自噬在化妆品中的机制与应用

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2026.02.014

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

自噬是细胞清除受损组分的核心机制，近年在皮肤健康与化妆品研发领域备受关注。本文综述自噬在角质形成细胞、黑色素细胞、成纤维细胞及皮脂腺细胞中的特异性调控网络，揭示其在屏障修护、美白、抗衰及控油中的关键作用，解析其通过清除氧化损伤、降解黑色素体、调控脂质代谢维持细胞稳态的潜在机制；同时总结烟酰胺、白藜芦醇、传明酸等化妆品成分靶向自噬通路的作用证据，探讨自噬检测技术标准化等应用挑战。未来需聚焦自噬调控的剂量效应与个体差异，强化机制验证与临床转化，为化妆品从“表层护理”向“细胞级修复” 升级提供核心理论支撑。

关键词: 自噬, 角质形成细胞, 黑色素细胞, 成纤维细胞, 皮脂腺细胞

Abstract:

Autophagy, a core cellular mechanism for clearing damaged components, has emerged as a focal topic in skin health and cosmetic development in recent years. This review outlines the cell-type-specific regulatory networks of autophagy in keratinocytes, melanocytes, fibroblasts, and sebocytes, highlighting its pivotal roles in epidermal barrier repair, skin lightening, anti-aging, and sebum regulation. We further elucidate the underlying mechanisms by which autophagy sustains cellular homeostasis: scavenging oxidative damage, degrading melanosomes, and modulating lipid metabolism. Additionally, we summarize the evidence supporting autophagy-targeting effects of cosmetic ingredients（e.g., niacinamide, resveratrol, tranexamic acid）and address key application challenges, particularly the standardization of autophagy detection assays. Future studies should prioritize investigating the dose-response effects and interindividual variability of autophagy modulation, alongside mechanism validation and clinical translation, to provide foundational theoretical support for advancing cosmetics from “superficial care” to “cellular-level repair”.

Key words: autophagy, keratinocytes, melanocytes, fibroblasts, sebocytes

中图分类号:

TQ658

张文荣, 唐莉凤, 贾焱. 从细胞自清洁到皮肤健康化：自噬在化妆品中的机制与应用[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2026, 56(2): 252-259.

Wenrong Zhang, Lifeng Tang, Yan Jia. From cellular self-cleaning to skin health: Mechanisms and applications of autophagy in cosmetics[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2026, 56(2): 252-259.

图/表 2

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原料名称	作用机制	化妆品应用
N-乙酰神经氨酸	通过自噬抑制酪氨酸酶活性，抑制黑色素生成^[36]	美白、修护
紫檀芪	通过p53蛋白负调控mTOR，启动自噬以修复或清除受损DNA^[37]	抗光老化、抗炎、美白
白藜芦醇	通过AMPK信号通路激活自噬作用，从而缓解UVA诱导的光老化^[38]	抗氧化、抗糖化、抗光老化、抗炎、美白
姜黄素、四氢姜黄素	通过细胞自噬机制，起到抗感染、抗癌、抗衰老、抗氧化应激和神经保护等作用^[39]	修护、抗糖化、抗氧化
烟酰胺	在pH 3.8环境下，烟酰胺显著上调自噬关键基因ATG5的表达，促进自噬体形成，而pH 5.8时效果减弱^[40]	美白、抗衰
传明酸	通过激活自噬系统来抑制黑素的生成^[41]	美白、抗炎褪红
熊果酸	通过激活自噬，增加黑色素细胞中的黑色素体降解来抑制皮肤色素沉着^[42]	美白，修护，抗糖化