皮肤糖化反应发生机制、影响因素及抗糖化在化妆品行业中的发展现状

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.02.012

日用化学工业 ›› 2021, Vol. 51 ›› Issue (2): 153-160.doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.02.012

皮肤糖化反应发生机制、影响因素及抗糖化在化妆品行业中的发展现状

李汇柯¹(),冯楠²,王闻博²,李钧翔^3,⁴,何聪芬¹()

1.北京工商大学化学与材料工程学院北京市植物资源研究开发重点实验室,北京 100048
2.北京大学首钢医院内分泌科,北京 100048
3.浙江清华长三角研究院衰老科学创新研发中心,浙江嘉兴 314006
4.启迪禾美生物科技（嘉兴）有限公司,浙江嘉兴 314006

收稿日期:2020-07-29 修回日期:2021-01-18 出版日期:2021-02-22 发布日期:2021-02-22
通讯作者: 何聪芬
作者简介:李汇柯（1995-）,男,浙江人,硕士研究生,电话：15623500059,E-mail： 15623500059@163.com。
基金资助:
北京工商大学2020年研究生科研能力提升计划项目

The mechanism of skin glycation reaction, influencing factors and the development status of anti-glycation in the cosmetics industry

LI Hui-ke¹(),FENG Nan²,WANG Wen-bo²,LI Jun-xiang^3,⁴,HE Cong-fen¹()

1. Beijing Key Laboratory of Plants Resource Research and Development, School of Chemistry and Materials Engineering,Beijing Technology and Business University, Beijing 100048, China
2. Department of Endocrinology, Peking University Shougang Hospital, Beijing 100048, China
3. Agecode R&D Center, Delta Region Institute of Tsinghua University, Jiaxing, Zhejiang 314006, China
4. TUS-HARVEST Biotech. Co., Ltd., Jiaxing, Zhejiang 314006, China

Received:2020-07-29 Revised:2021-01-18 Online:2021-02-22 Published:2021-02-22
Contact: Cong-fen HE

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

通过对皮肤糖化发生机制的介绍,详细阐明了晚期糖基化终末产物（AGEs）的形成过程及其对皮肤的影响;介绍了对抗皮肤糖化作用的措施及其作用机制。总结了现阶段宣称抗糖化功效的化妆品品牌及成分,并分析了市场中抗糖化化妆品开发上的不足,旨在为抗糖化化妆品的开发提供一定的理论基础。

关键词: 抗糖化, 晚期糖基化终末产物, 化妆品

Abstract:

The formation process of the advanced glycation end product （AGEs） and its effect on the skin were clarified in the paper through the introduction of the mechanism of skin glycation in details and the measures against the skin glycation and the mechanism of action were introduced too. The cosmetic brands and ingredients that claim anti-glycation effects at present were summarized, and the deficiencies in the development of anti-glycation cosmetics in the market were analyzed in personal opinion. It aims to provide solid and scientific theoretical basis for the development of anti-glycation cosmetics.

Key words: anti-glycation, advanced glycation end products, cosmetics

中图分类号:

TQ658

李汇柯,冯楠,王闻博,李钧翔,何聪芬. 皮肤糖化反应发生机制、影响因素及抗糖化在化妆品行业中的发展现状[J]. 日用化学工业, 2021, 51(2): 153-160.

LI Hui-ke,FENG Nan,WANG Wen-bo,LI Jun-xiang,HE Cong-fen. The mechanism of skin glycation reaction, influencing factors and the development status of anti-glycation in the cosmetics industry[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2021, 51(2): 153-160.

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活性成分	作用途径
硫胺素HCl（维生素B1）	转酮糖酶（transketolase,TKT）的辅助因子,TKT戊糖磷酸途径（pentose phosphate pathway, PPP）的关键酶,PPP途径主要产物NADPH可抑制AGEs产生^[26]
烟酰胺（维生素B3）	烟酰胺腺嘌呤二核苷酸（NAD）及其磷酸盐衍生物（NADP）的还原形式（NADH和NADPH）可抑制Krebs和ETC。从而减少ROS生成,最终降低AGEs的生成^{[27, 28]}
吡哆胺（维生素B6）	一种有效的AGEs形成抑制剂,其作用强于氨基胍^[29]。吡哆胺能螯合催化Amadori反应的金属离子,减少二羰基中间体的生成,从而抑制AGEs的形成^[30]
维生素C	具有非特异的金属螯合活性,可以通过阻断ROS和自由的过渡金属离子来间接抑制AGEs的形成^[25]
肌肽	减少自由基的水平（肌肽是有效的电子供体,具有金属离子螯合能力,可与金属形成络合物并限制金属的反应活性）;与蛋白质的羰基进行反应（肌肽上的氨基与氨基酸羰基发生交联,或通过受体（如RAGE）清除巨噬细胞上的修饰蛋白）^[31]
绿原酸	绿原酸是由某些反式肉桂酸和奎尼酸所形成的一族酯,主要针对甲基乙二醛,以浓度依赖的方式抑制美拉德反应,最终抑制AGEs的生成^[32]
硫辛酸	保护蛋白质免于葡萄糖诱导的糖基化反应,同时通过减少蛋白质的羰基数目、增加硫醇数目使得蛋白质免受氧化损伤的影响^[33]

天然产物	主要化合物	主要来源	对于AGEs的影响
姜黄素^[34]	肉桂酸	姜黄	降低AGEs的累积量;胶原蛋白交联下降;防止AGEs诱导NF‐κB 和VEGF通路
儿茶素^[35]	黄烷醇	绿茶	降低AGEs的生成量
槲皮素^[36]	黄烷醇	洋葱、甘蓝	降低AGEs的生成量;抑制二羰基化合物诱导的蛋白质糖基化
山柰酚^[37]	黄烷醇	大蒜	降低AGEs的累积量;蛋白交联下降
柚皮素^[38]	二氢黄酮	柑橘类水果、番茄	抑制AGEs的形成;抑制AGEs诱导的氧化应激和炎症
橙皮素^[39]	二氢黄酮	柠檬、蜜桔	乙二醛酶-1的活性升高;降低AGEs的生成量;降低RAGE蛋白水平;抑制AGEs-RAGE轴
芹菜素^[40]	黄酮	欧芹、芹菜、洋甘菊茶	抑制AGEs诱导ROS的产生过程;降低RAGE蛋白水平
染料木素^[41]	异黄酮	羽扇豆、蚕豆、大豆	抑制AGEs的形成;降低RAGE蛋白水平;乙二醛酶-1、2的活性升高
羟基酪醇^[42]	苯乙醇	橄榄叶、橄榄油	降低AGEs的生成量;抑制蛋白质羰基化
白藜芦醇^[43]	二苯乙烯	葡萄、红酒、浆果、花生	降低AGEs的生成量;抑制蛋白质羰基化;晚期氧化蛋白产物（AOPP）含量下降

品牌	产品	抗糖化成分	宣称
悦木之源	灵芝焕能精华水	赤芝提取物、桦褐孔菌菌核提取物	保护细胞和蛋白质免受氧化侵害,并能中和细胞中有害金属离子,抵抗外界污染;改善暗沉无光,令肌肤细腻透亮
修丽可	修丽可紧致塑颜眼部精华霜	欧洲越桔果提取物、Pro-ylane玻色因、5,7-二羟基黄酮、棕榈酰四肽-7、二肽-2	让眼周柔软通透、提亮眼周;补充水分、减退细纹鱼尾纹;减退黑眼圈,紧致眼周
美帕	美帕瑞士胶原青春精华液	肌肽、羧甲基β-葡聚糖钠、水解小麦蛋白、水飞蓟籽油、水飞蓟果提取物、三肽-1	为肌肤注入能量,阻止肌肤糖化而引起的老化,补充胶原蛋白、弹性蛋白,减少细纹和干纹,令肌肤恢复弹性紧实
POLA宝丽	B.A极光幻彩精华液	欧蓍草提取物、苦参根提取物、刺梨果提取物、紫草提取物、魁蒿叶提取物	均匀提亮肤色,肌肤呈现由内而外的饱满通透光泽;帮助清洁角质层和真皮层堆积的AGEs,改善肌肤枯黄、暗沉
HomeFacialPro	肌肽原液	肌肽、阿魏酸、积雪草叶提取物、甲基硅烷醇甘露糖醛酸酯	包裹肌肤内多余糖分,代替胶原蛋白与糖分发生反应,保护胶原蛋白不被糖化,肌肤紧致透亮;改善暗沉黄气;修护糖化初期胶原蛋白
理肤泉	抗糖化抗氧化精华	肌肽、花青素、茶多酚	抗糖化、减轻鱼尾纹、提亮肤色
Isomers	Haa肌肽虾青素双效精华	脱羧肌肽HCl、肌肽、虾青素	抗糖化、抗氧化;改善肌肤粗糙、偏黄问题;修护屏幕蓝光辐射损伤;清除自由基

皮肤糖化反应发生机制、影响因素及抗糖化在化妆品行业中的发展现状

The mechanism of skin glycation reaction, influencing factors and the development status of anti-glycation in the cosmetics industry

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