神经酰胺Ⅱ脂质体的制备及在化妆品中的应用

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.11.008

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

通过乳化均质技术制备得到高含量（10%）神经酰胺Ⅱ脂质体,在偏光显微镜下观察到该脂质体粒径均一,具有大量的马耳他十字液晶结构;该神经酰胺Ⅱ脂质体稠度适宜,细腻光滑,稳定性好,水溶性好,通过简单搅拌即可应用到化妆品中,这在很大程度上解决了神经酰胺水溶性差,易结晶析出等问题。通过人体试验结果表明,使用添加1%神经酰胺Ⅱ脂质体（含10%神经酰胺Ⅱ）的乳霜,受试者的TEWL值（经表皮水分流失）在2 h内可恢复85%,皮肤含水量在1 h内增加39.58%,说明其具有良好的皮肤屏障修复性。

关键词: 神经酰胺Ⅱ, 脂质体, 液晶, 化妆品

Abstract:

The liposome with high content （10%） of ceramide Ⅱ was prepared by the homogenization technique. A large number of Maltese Cross liquid crystal structures which were uniform in particle size were observed under a polarizing microscope. The ceramide Ⅱ liposomes were smooth, soft and water-soluble, with suitable viscosity and good stability. It could be used in cosmetics by simply stirring, which solved the problems of poor water solubility and easy crystallization and precipitation for ceramide. Human-skin test results showed that the TEWLvalue （transepidermal water loss） of the subjects could recover 85% with the cream containing 1% ceramide Ⅱ liposome （which contained 10% ceramide Ⅱ） in two hours, and the skin moisture content could be increased by 39.58% in an hour, which indicated that it had good repairing ability for skin barrier.

Key words: ceramide Ⅱ, liposome, liquid crystal, cosmetics

中图分类号:

TQ658

王丽,刘瑞学,冷群英,毕凡星. 神经酰胺Ⅱ脂质体的制备及在化妆品中的应用[J]. 日用化学工业, 2019, 49(11): 742-747.

WANG Li,LIU Rui-xue,LENG Qun-ying,BI Fan-xing. Preparation of ceramide II liposome and its application in cosmetics[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2019, 49(11): 742-747.

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参考文献 21

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类别	原料名称	w/%
A相	1,3丙二醇	6
	尿囊素	0.2
	EDTA二钠	0.05
	透明质酸钠	0.02
	黄原胶	0.15
	SEPINOV EMT 10	0.4
	丙烯酸（酯）类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物	0.15
	水	至100
B相	鲸蜡硬脂醇	0.5
	氢化棕榈仁油	3
	GTCC	1
	甘油硬脂酸酯	1
	MONTANOV 68	1
	TEGO CARE 165	1.5
	聚二甲基硅氧烷	3.5
C相	SIMULGEL NS	1.2
D相	三乙醇胺	0.15
E相	1,3丙二醇	4
	氯苯甘醚	0.2
	PAF E91	0.6
F相	甘草酸二钾	0.1
F相	水	2
G相	10%神经酰胺Ⅱ脂质体	X
G相	水	10

反应程度	皮肤不良反应	分级
-	阴性反应	0
±	可疑反应,仅有微弱红斑	1
+	弱阳性反应（红斑反应）;红斑、浸润、水肿、可有丘疹	2
++	强阳性反应（疱疹反应）;红斑、浸润、水肿、丘疹、疱疹;反应可超出受试区	3
+++	极强阳性反应（融合性疱疹反应）;明显红斑、严重浸润、水肿、融合性疱疹;反应超出受试区	4

样品	使用前水分含量/%	使用前水分含量的标准差	1 h后水分含量/%	1 h后水分含量的标准差	水分含量增长率/%
空白对照组	28.4	1.01	29.3	1.06	3.17
保湿修复乳霜A	29.2	0.98	33.8	1.07	15.75
保湿修复乳霜B	28.8	1.00	40.2	0.96	39.58
保湿修复乳霜C	28.9	1.08	45.9	1.05	58.82
保湿修复乳霜D	28.9	1.09	46.8	1.05	61.94
空白脂质体	28.7	1.11	33.2	1.18	15.68
1%神经酰胺Ⅱ脂质体	28.5	1.01	33.5	1.10	17.54
10%神经酰胺Ⅱ脂质体	28.6	1.00	33.3	1.05	16.43

样品	TEWL值的标准差
样品	0 h	1 h	2 h	3 h	4 h	5 h	6 h
空白对照组	1.01	1.05	1.02	1.08	1.03	1.00	1.05
保湿修复乳霜A	1.02	0.98	0.99	1.03	1.01	1.03	1.02
保湿修复乳霜B	1.06	1.01	0.98	0.99	1.03	1.01	1.04
保湿修复乳霜C	1.07	1.10	1.09	1.07	1.09	1.07	1.05
保湿修复乳霜D	1.05	1.06	1.05	1.07	1.05	1.07	1.05
空白脂质体	1.02	1.12	1.15	1.16	1.18	1.19	1.14
1%神经酰胺Ⅱ脂质体	1.03	1.09	1.08	1.07	1.08	1.03	1.01
10%神经酰胺Ⅱ脂质体	1.03	1.06	1.05	1.07	1.02	1.09	1.08