化妆品功效评价(Ⅳ)——延缓皮肤衰老功效宣称的科学支持

doi:10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2018.04.002

摘要/Abstract

摘要： 概述了皮肤的衰老表现和衰老机制学说,介绍了生物化学法、细胞生物学法、三维重组皮肤模型替代法、动物实验法、主观评估、客观仪器评价法等延缓皮肤衰老化妆品功效评价方法,提供了延缓皮肤衰老功效评价的新思路,展望了延缓衰老化妆品功效评价方法的未来发展方向。

关键词: 延缓皮肤衰老化妆品, 皮肤衰老, 功效评价

Abstract: The indication and the mechanism of skin aging are summarized.Various methods to evaluate the cosmetics for delaying skin aging have been introduced,such as biochemical method,cell biological method,three-dimensional recombinant skin model,animal experiment,subjective evaluation and objective instrumental evaluation.The new idea of efficacy evaluation on cosmetics for delaying skin aging has been proposed,as well as its future direction of development.

Key words: cosmetics for delaying skin aging, skin aging, efficacy evaluation

中图分类号:

TQ658

李诚桐, 赵华. 化妆品功效评价(Ⅳ)——延缓皮肤衰老功效宣称的科学支持[J]. 日用化学工业, 2018, 48(4): 188-195.

LI Cheng-tong, ZHAO Hua. Efficacy evaluation of cosmetics (Ⅳ) Scientific support for delaying skin aging cosmetic efficacy claims[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2018, 48(4): 188-195.

参考文献

[1] Zhou Tong,Jin Xipeng.Study on skin aging and its influencing factors [J].Foreign Medical Sciences Section of Dermatology and Venereology,1996,22(2):90-93.
[2] Waller J M,Maibach H I.Age and skin structure and function,a quantitative approach (I):blood flow,pH,thickness,and ultrasound echogenicity [J].Skin Research & Technology,2005,11(4):221.
[3] Liu Yuan,Li Fumin,Liao Jinfeng.Advances in skin photoaging mechanism [J].Journal of Clinical Dermatology,2016,6(45):479-481.
[4] Zhou Yue.The delaying effects on aging and mechanism of mussel peptides and polysaccharides [D].Zhenjiang:Jiangsu University,2013.
[5] Bernstein E F.Reactive oxygen species activate the human elastin promoter in a transgenic model of cutaneous photoaging [J].Dermatologic Surgery,2002,28(2):132-135.
[6] Li Suyun,Wang Liqin,Zheng Jialin.Research progress on free radicals and senescence [J].Chinese Journal of Gerontology,2007,27:2046-2048.
[7] Niwa T.Dialysis-related amyloidosis:pathogenesis focusing on AGE modification [J].Seminars in Dialysis,2001,4(2):123-126.
[8] Peng Liwei,Lai Jixiang,He Congfen,et al.Advances in non-enzymatic glycosylation and skin senescence [J].Chinese Journal of Gerontology,2010,30(20):3027-3029.
[9] Fang Lin,Zhao Zhenmin.Research progress on the mechanism of skin aging [J].People’s Military Surgeon,2010,53(2):149-152.
[10] Wang Juhong,Xie Zongping,Chen Wen.Research progress on aging mechanism and anti-aging [J].Journal of Hexi University,2003(2):94-98.
[11] Li Quan,Wu Zhimin.The principle and application of anti-aging cosmetics [J].Chinese Journal of Aesthetic Medicine,2017,26(11):135-138.
[12] Xue Hongyu,Evelyn G Su.A review of the efficacy evaluation methods of skin care products [J].Detergent & Cosmetics,2005,28(9):43-47.
[13] Liu Yang,Deng Yingmei,Zhao Hua.Methods of anti-wrinkle efficacy evaluation of cosmetics [J].Detergent and Cosmetics,2015,38(4):18-21.
[14] Li Xiang,Hu Junjiao,Li Qiong,et al.Anti-aging cosmetics and its efficacy assessment methods [J].Flavour Fragrance Cosmetics,2013,5:58-62.
[15] Suwicha S,Warissara M,Weerasak S.Development of peacock flower extract as anti-wrinkle formulation [J].Health Res.,2010,24(1):29-34.
[16] Xin Can,Chang Lixin,Jia Changhong.Antioxidant effect of water extract from soybean [J].Journal of Hebei United University (Natural Science Edition),2012,34(3):115-118.
[17] Wang Zhenyu,Liu Yilin.Antioxidant activities of ethanol eluting fractions from Lonicera edulis extract [J].Science and Technology of Food Industry,2012,33(9):163-174.
[18] Feng Dapeng,Xiao Jianru.Correlation between matrix metalloproteinases and their inhibitors and tumor [J].Tumor,2009,29(9):912-915.
[19] Long Mei,Zhang Man,Song Guizhen.Progress in drug screening methods at the molecular level for matrix metalloproteinase inhibitors [J].Applied Chemical Industry,2014,43(12):2252-2255.
[20] Han Han,Liang Yuanjun,Wei Xiaoli,et al.Synthesis and activity evaluation of α-Halogen substituted succinate based hydroxamic acid as matrix metalloproteinase inhibitors [J].Chemical Journal of Chinese Universities,2009,30(1):72-77.
[21] Lai Jixiang.Establishmengt and application of two in vitro screening methods for cosmetic additives with anti-aging effect [D].Beijing:Beijing Technology and Business University,2010.
[22] Wang Yanchun,Li Fang,Tao Lei.Inhibitory effect of raspberry extract on matrix metalloproteinase in vitro [J].The Chinese Journal of Clinical Pharmacology,2011,27(4):291-292.
[23] Li Jing.Study on the extracts from polygonum cuspidatum and its inhibitory effect to elastase [D].Wuxi:Jiangnan University,2012.
[24] Barros S C,Martins J A,Marcos J C.Influence of secretory leukocyte protease inhibitor-based peptides on elastase activity and their incorporation in hyaluronic acid hydrogels for chronic wound therapy [J].Peptide Science,2012,98(6):576-590.
[25] Kim T,Kim H J,Cho S K.Nelumbo nuciferaex-tracts as whitening and anti-wrinkle cosmetic agent [J].Korean Journal of Chemical Engineering,2011,28(1):424-427.
[26] Chen Shaohong,Liu Shaobin,Zhao Yuntao.Inhibitive effects of bitter melon extract on the protein non-enzymatic glycation [J].Chinese Journal of Experimental Traditional Medical Formulae,2012,18(15):211-214.
[27] Zhu Ling.Application of cell culture in cosmetics efficacy accessment [D].Shanghai:Shanghai Institute of Technology,2014.
[28] Wang Changtao,Wang Shuang,Pan Yan,et al.Study on the evaluation of the thermal insulation effect of cosmetics [J].Detergent & Cosmetics,2010,33:32-35.
[29] Meephansan J,Tsuda H,Komine M,et al.Regulation of IL-33 expression by IFN-γ and tumor necrosis factor-a in normal human epidermal keratinocytes [J].Journal of Investigative Dermatology,2012,132(11):2593.
[30] Guo Hesong,Gao Heyi,Zeng Sa,et al.Progress in research work with respect to in vitro evaluation method on cellular level for efficacy of anti-senility cosmetics [J].China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics,2016,46(2):114-117.
[31] Zhao Pingqin,Toru Okubo,John J.Elevated cysteine-rich protein 61 (CCN1) promotes skin aging via upregulation of IL-1β in chronically sun-exposed human skin [J].AGE,2014,36(1):353-364.
[32] Wang Ruiyan,Liu Wei,Liu Hongmei.Biomarkers and its significance of skin cell aging [J].Chinese Journal of Medical Aesthetics and Cosmetology,2011,159-160.
[33] Okano Y.Improvement of wrinkles by an all-trans-retinoic acid derivative,D-tocopheryl retinoate [J].Journal of Dermato-logical Science Supplement,2006,2:65-74.
[34] Zhang Rongxin,Tu Caixia,Bai Minghui,et al.Effect of N-acetylglucosamine on hyaluronic acid synthesis in keratinocytes of skin [J].Chinese Journal of Dermatology,2008,41:550-551.
[35] Li Peipei,Wang Min,Wu Jinhao,et al.The application of cell culture technology in the evaluation of cosmetic efficacy [J].Beijing Daily Chemical,2016(3):22-26.
[36] Chiang H M,Chen H C,Chiu H H,et al.Neonauclea reticulata (Havil.) merr stimulates skin regeneration after UVB exposure via ROS scavenging and modulation of the MAPK/MMPs/collagen pathway [J].Evidence-Based Comple-mentary and Alternative Medicine,2013,1:1-9.
[37] Choi H,Kim D,Kim J W,et al.Labisia pumila extract protects skin cells from photoaging caused by UVB irradiation [J].Journal of Bioscience and Bioengineering,2010,109(3):291-296.
[38] Carlson M W,Althill A,Egles C,et al.Three-dimensional tissue models of normal and diseased skin [J].Current Protocols in Cell Biology,2008,19(9):1-17.
[39] Thakoersing V S,Gooris G S,Mulder A,et al.Unraveling barrier properties of three different in-house hunman skin equivalents [J].Tissue Engineering:Part C,Methods,2012,18(1):1-11.
[40] Guan Yingjie,Wei Shaomin,Jin Xipeng.Applications of skin cell culture technologies in cosmetic efficacy study [J].China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics,2002,32(5):44-46.
[41] Zhang Jinsong,He Licheng,Sang Jing,et al.Application comparison of Episkin^TM and Epikutis^® skin model in ealuating skin irritation and skin corrossion [J].Chinese Journal of Modern Applied Pharmacy,2017,34(4):524-526.
[42] Cheng Shujun,Qin Yao,Bu Li.In vitro model of human skin irritation test reconstruction validation [J].Laboratory Animal and Comparative Medicine,2012,32(3):243-346.
[43] Bu Li.The study of antioxidants creening methods based on multiple cells [D].Guangzhou:Guangdong Pharmaceutical University,2011.
[44] Grazul-Bilska A T,Bilski J J,Redmer D A,et al.Antioxidant capacity of 3D human skin EpiDerm^TM model:effects of skin moisturizers [J].International Journal of Cosmetic Science,2009,31(3):201-208.
[45] Santa-Maria C,Recilla E,Miramontes E.Protection against free radicals (UVB irradiation) of a water solube enzymatic extract from rice bran.Study using human keratinocyte monlayer and reconstructed human epidermis [J].Food and Chemical Toxicology,2010,48:83-88.
[46] Miao Mingsan,Xiang Lihua,Cao Lihua.Standard (draft) for preparation of skin aging animal model [J].China Journal of Traditional Chinese Medicine and Pharmacy,2018(2):606-609.
[47] Wang Can,Zuo Ting,Wang Linlin.Experimental research from flavonoids of mulberry leaves on the anti-aging effect [J].China Medical Herald,2011,8(3):30-32.
[48] Gao Fude,Liu Xiaohui,Fan Jianming,et al.Effect of extractive of astragalus on growing,antioxidation and immune function of mice [J].Journal of Aerospace Medicine,2011,22(2):144-145.
[49] Qu Zicong.Study on safety evaluation of Polygonatum odoratum and its application in anti-aging cosmetics [D].Guangzhou:Guangdong Pharmaceutical University,2017.
[50] Deng Yingmei,Zhao Hua,Zhang Shan,et al.The effect evaluation of anti-wrinkle cosmetics and their research progress [J].Flavour Fragrance Cosmetics,2014,5:53-56.
[51] Li Li.Evaluation of the efficacy of tender skin and wrinkle resistant cosmetics [J].Chinese Cosmetic Professional Edition,2007,30-32.
[52] Weiss J S,Ellis C N,Goldfarb M T,et al.Tretinoin therapy:practical aspects of evaluation and treatment [J].J.Int.Med.Res.,1990,18(3):41-48.
[53] Saniee F,Shiraz H R G,Kalantari K K,et al.Consider of micro-current’s effect to variation of facial wrinkle trend,randomized clinical trial study [J].Life Science Journal,2012,9(3):1184-1189.
[54] Gao Yaqian,Kin Eunjoo,Sun Nan,et al.Boosting effect of booster product when co-applying with anti-aging cosmetic [J].Chinese Journal of Aesthetic Medicine,2014,23(8):640-644.
[55] Zhao Hua,Guang Feng.Efficacy of anti-aging cosmetics [J].China Cosmetics Review,2016(12):86-87.
[56] Ma Huimin,Liu Aiqing,Wang Haiyan,et al.Evaluating the capacity and investigating the mechanism of collagen oligopeptide on holding water and resisting wrinkle [J].Chinese Journal of Aesthetic Medicine,2008,11:1625-1628.
[57] Tang Li,Li Li.The application of non-evasive evaluation of skin elasticity in dermatology [J].Chinese Journal of Aesthetic Medicine,2007,16:710-712.
[58] Zhao Lerong,Liu Zhihe,Shi Lihua,et al.Study on application of Prunus mume blossom extract in cosmetics [J].Flavour Fragrance Cosmetics,2012(4):33-36.
[59] Wu Jinhao,Liu Qi,Deng Yingmei.A study on efficacy evaluation method of skin lightening cosmetics [J].Beijing Daily Chemical,2014(1):9-12.
[60] Guo Dejun.Research status and prospect of skin surface detection technology [J].Heilongjiang Medicine Journal,2005,51-52.
[61] Berardesca E.Bioengineering of the skin:methods and instrumentation [M].Boca Raton:CRC Press,1995.
[62] Akazaki S,Imokawa G.Mechanical methods for evaluating skin surface architecture in relation to wrinkling [J].Journal of Dermatological Science,2001,1:5-10.
[63] Hatzis J.The wrinkle and its measurement-A skin surface profilometric marhod [J].Micron,2004,35:201-219.
[64] Giacomoni P U,Rein G.A mechanistic model for the aging of human skin [J].Micron,2004,35:179-184.
[65] Fowler J F,Fransway A F,Jackson J M.Hydrocortisone butyrate 0.1% cream in the treatment of chronic dermatitis [J].Cuits,2005,75:125-131.
[66] Jegasothy S M,Zabolotniaia V,Bielfeldt S.Efficacy of a new topical nano-hyaluronic acid in humans [J].The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology,2014,7(3):27-29.
[67] Paes E C,Teepen H J,Koop W A,et al.Perioral wrinkles:histologic differences between men and women [J].Aesthetic Surgery Journal,2009,29(6):467-472.
[68] Lagarde J M,Rouvrais C,Black D.Topography and anisotropy of the skin surface with ageing [J].Skin Research and Tehnology,2005,11(2):110-119.
[69] Dicanio D,Sparacio R,Declercq L.Calculation of apparent age by linear combination of facial skin parameters:a predictive tool to evaluate the efficacy of cosmetic treatments and to assess the predisposition to accelerated aging [J].Biogeron-tology,2009(10):757-772.
[70] Yu Hui.Study on efficacy assessment of anti-aging cosmetics [D].Shanghai:Shanghai Institute of Technology,2012.