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2018年, 第48卷, 第4期　刊出日期：2018-04-20 上一期    下一期

基础研究

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一类反应型两性表面活性剂的合成及性能研究 Synthesis and properties of a series of reactive zwitterionic surfactants 李苛, 徐进, 许虎君 2018 (4):  183-187.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2018.04.001 摘要 ( 245 )   PDF(777KB) ( 354 )   以N,N-二甲基-1,3-丙二胺、顺丁烯二酸酐和烷基溴为主要原料,合成了不同烷基链长的反应型两性表面活性剂M10、M12和M14。经FT-IR、ESI-MS、1H-NMR验证了目标产物,测定了M10、M12和M14水溶液中的临界胶束浓度(cmc)和相应的表面张力(γcmc)及泡沫、润湿、乳化和溶解性能。结果表明,M10、M12、M14的cmc在25 ℃分别为5.89×10-4,2.63×10-4和1.35×10-4 mol/L,γcmc分别为31.26,28.79和26.87 mN/m;M14的泡沫、乳化和润湿性能好于M10、M12,溶解性能比M10、M12的稍差。 Three reactive zwitterionic surfactants (M10,M12 and M14) with different alkyl chain lengths had been synthesized by using N,N-dimethyl-1,3-propanediamine,maleic anhydride and alkyl bromide as principal raw materials.The compounds had been characterized by FT-IR,ESI-MS and 1H-NMR.The critical micelle concentration (cmc) and the corresponding surface tension (γcmc) of M10,M12 and M14 in aqueous solution were measured at 25 ℃ by surface tensiometer.The foam properties,wetting properties,emulsifying properties and solubility were also determined.Results show that the cmc of M10,M12 and M14 at 25 ℃ are 5.89×10-4,2.63×10-4 and 1.35×10-4 mol/L,and their γcmc values are 31.26,28.79 and 26.87 mN/m,respectively.The foam properties,emulsifying properties and wetting properties of M14 are better than those of M10 and M12,while the solubility of M14 is slightly worse than that of M10 and M12. 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

科技讲座

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化妆品功效评价(Ⅳ)——延缓皮肤衰老功效宣称的科学支持 Efficacy evaluation of cosmetics (Ⅳ) Scientific support for delaying skin aging cosmetic efficacy claims 李诚桐, 赵华 2018 (4):  188-195.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2018.04.002 摘要 ( 687 )   PDF(739KB) ( 780 )   概述了皮肤的衰老表现和衰老机制学说,介绍了生物化学法、细胞生物学法、三维重组皮肤模型替代法、动物实验法、主观评估、客观仪器评价法等延缓皮肤衰老化妆品功效评价方法,提供了延缓皮肤衰老功效评价的新思路,展望了延缓衰老化妆品功效评价方法的未来发展方向。 The indication and the mechanism of skin aging are summarized.Various methods to evaluate the cosmetics for delaying skin aging have been introduced,such as biochemical method,cell biological method,three-dimensional recombinant skin model,animal experiment,subjective evaluation and objective instrumental evaluation.The new idea of efficacy evaluation on cosmetics for delaying skin aging has been proposed,as well as its future direction of development. 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

开发与应用

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(2-羟基-3-脱氢枞氧基)丙基羟乙基壳聚糖制备及性能研究 Synthesis and performance of (2-hydroxyl-3-dehydrofiroxy) propyl hydroxyethyl chitosan 王婷, 章婷婷, 蔡照胜, 桑淑敏, 何建玲, 汪艺宁 2018 (4):  196-200.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2018.04.003 摘要 ( 301 )   PDF(1052KB) ( 266 )   以羟乙基壳聚糖和脱氢枞基缩水甘油醚为原料制备了非离子高分子表面活性剂(2-羟基-3-脱氢枞氧基)丙基羟乙基壳聚糖(DAGE-g-HECTS),测定了FT-IR、1H NMR和接枝度(DG),采用表面张力法研究了DAGE-g-HECTS的表面活性及其随DG的变化,以DAGE-g-HECTS为稳定剂时的苯-水乳液体系的稳定时间评价了其乳化性能。结果表明,反应成功制备了目标产物;随着DG从17.78%提高至44.31%,DAGE-g-HECTS水溶液的临界胶束浓度从1.080 6降至0.247 2 g/L,最低表面张力稳定在36.2 mN/m左右;DAGE-g-HECTS对苯-水乳液体系的稳定时间随DG的增大而延长,DG为23.16%的DAGE-g-HECTS对苯-水乳液体系的稳定时间为348 s,优于AEO-9为稳定剂时的327 s,DG为40.45%的DAGE-g-HECTS对苯-水乳液的稳定时间为712 s,优于Tween-60为乳液稳定剂时的653 s。 A nonionic polymeric surfactant (2-hydroxyl-3-dehydrofiroxy) propyl hydroxyethyl chitosan (DAGE-g-HECTS) was prepared with the raw materials of dehydroabietyl glycidyl ether and N,O-hydroxyethyl chitosan.FT-IR、1H NMR and grafting degree (DG) of DAGE-g-HECTS was determined.The surface activity of DAGE-g-HECTS and its variation with the DG were investigated by using surface tension method.The emulsifying property of DAGE-g-HECTS was evaluated according to the stability time of emulsion composed of water and benzene with DAGE-g-HECTS as emulsifying agent.Results indicate that the target product is successfully prepared.The critical micelle concentration (cmc) of DAGE-g-HECTS in aqueous solution decreases from 1.080 6 to 0.247 2 g/L with the increase of DG from 17.78% to 44.31%,but the minimum surface tension ( γmin) of DAGE-g-HECTS can reach approximately 36.2 mN/m in aqueous solution.The stability time of emulsion composed of water and benzene with DAGE-g-HECTS as emulsifying agent extends with the increase of DG.When the DG of DAGE-g-HECTS is 23.16%,the stability time of emulsion is 348 s,which is longer than that with AEO-9 as emulsifying agent (327 s),and when the DG of DAGE-g-HECTS is 40.45%,the stability time of emulsion is 712 s,which is longer than that with Tween-60 as emulsifying agent (653 s). 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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TBCC活化氧漂体系对纺织品有色污渍的去除性能 Performance of TBCC-activated peroxide system in removing colored contaminants from textiles 郭雨宁, 邵冬燕, 柴文龙, 孙昌, 杜金梅, 许长海 2018 (4):  201-204.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2018.04.004 摘要 ( 259 )   PDF(642KB) ( 321 )   利用N-[4-(三乙基铵甲撑)苯酰基]己内酰胺氯化物(TBCC)对过碳酸钠在水溶液中所生成的过氧化氢的活化作用,构建了TBCC活化氧漂体系,与标准洗涤剂配合用于白色和染色纺织品洗涤,研究了在室温条件下对有色污渍(咖啡、红酒或茶)的去除性能。对洗涤溶液中的过氧化氢残留测试结果表明,洗涤溶液中加入TBCC和过碳酸钠后释放出的过氧化氢可被TBCC充分活化。室温条件下,加入适量的TBCC和过碳酸钠即可有效去除白色织物上玷污的有色污渍而使其恢复至原有白度,也可以有效去除染色织物上玷污的有色污渍而不损伤其原有颜色。 N-[4-(triethylammoniomethyl)benzoyl] caprolactam chloride (TBCC) and sodium percarbonate were incorporated into a standard laundry detergent for removing colored contaminants from textiles at room temperature.The TBCC-activated peroxide system was constructed by the reaction of TBCC with hydrogen peroxide generated from sodium percarbonate in aqueous solution.The white and dyed fabrics contaminated with coffee,red wine and tea were used to test the performance of the TBCC-activated peroxide system in removing colored contaminants.The test results of residual hydrogen peroxide indicate that the hydrogen peroxide released from sodium percarbonate can be adequately activated by TBCC.At room temperature,laundering with appropriate amount of TBCC and sodium percarbonate can effectively remove the colored contaminants not only from white fabrics for recovering their original whiteness but also from dyed fabrics without apparent damage to their original color appearance. 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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聚氧化乙烯/海藻酸钠/羟丙基-癸烷基壳聚糖网络凝胶的制备及其对三七总皂苷的体外释放性能研究 Preparation of network gel of polyethylene oxide/sodium alginate/hydroxypropyl-decyl chitosan and its behavior for in vitro release of panax notoginseng saponins 谭福能 2018 (4):  205-209.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2018.04.005 摘要 ( 230 )   PDF(1659KB) ( 441 )   将壳聚糖改性成两亲性的羟丙基-癸烷基壳聚糖,并通过化学交联方法制备了聚氧化乙烯/海藻酸钠/羟丙基-癸烷基壳聚糖载药网络凝胶。利用傅利叶变换红外光谱仪、X-射线衍射仪、扫描电子显微镜对凝胶结构进行了表征。实验结果表明,该凝胶具有良好的网状结构和溶胀性,同时兼具pH敏感性和温度敏感性,在不同pH环境中均对三七总皂苷具有一定的缓释作用。 Amphiphilic hydroxypropyl-decyl chitosan was prepared by modification of chitosan.The drug-loading network gel of polyethylene oxide/sodium alginate/hydroxypropyl-decyl chitosan (PEO/SA/HP-DCCS) were prepared via chemical cross-linking method.The structure of the gel was characterized by FT-IR,XRD and SEM.Results show that this gel has good network structure and swelling property toghether with sensitiveness to pH and temperature.The gel has sustained-release effect on panax notoginseng saponins at different pH values. 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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无搅拌条件下的Pickering乳液用于脂肪酶催化合成酯的反应 Enzymatic synthesis of esters in stirring-free Pickering emulsions 白佩灵, 尤雪瑞, 郝雅娟, 张晓明, 杨恒权 2018 (4):  210-215.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2018.04.006 摘要 ( 375 )   PDF(3650KB) ( 336 )   为了解决目前酶催化领域中所存在的酶催化效率低和搅拌会对酶结构造成破坏的问题,采用了一种新的体系来进行无搅拌下两相酶催化反应。该体系是通过加入一定量的界面活性固体颗粒作为乳化剂将传统两相酶催化反应转变为W/O的Pickering乳液体系。该体系中,催化剂洋葱伯克霍尔德菌脂肪(BCL)酶包裹在微米尺度的液滴中,而有机反应底物溶解在油相(乳滴外部)中。实验证明,无搅拌条件下的Pickering乳液反应体系中酶的催化效率明显高于搅拌的两相体系,这是由于Pickering乳液乳滴具有大的反应界面积和短的分子扩散距离。实验进一步发现,酶的比活度取决于乳滴的大小,更加体现出了反应体系中乳滴的重要性。此外,仅通过简单地离心破乳即可实现BCL酶循环利用,且经过6次循环后,转化率依旧可达86%,这可能是因为无搅拌反应体系不会破坏酶的立体结构。这一研究证明,Pickering乳液体系提供了一种不需要搅拌和固载就可高效进行的酶催化酯交换反应的新平台。 To solve the problems currently in enzymatic reactions (such as low efficiency and the destruction of enzyme structure induced by stirring),a novel strategy of stirring-free two-phase enzymatic reaction was developed.In this strategy,the conventional two-phase enzymatic reaction was altered by a system of water-in-oil (W/O) Pickering emulsion in which a small amount of interfacial-active solid particles were used as emulsifier.In this system,a Burkholderia Cepacia lipase (BCL) enzyme was packaged within micron-sized water droplets,while organic substrates were dissolved in oil phase (outside the droplets).The experimental results show that,the reaction efficiency of BCL-catalyzed transesterification is obviously higher in the stirring-free Pickering emulsion than in the conventional two-phase system under stirring.The reasons may be that the droplets of Pickering emulsion have a large area of reaction interface and a short distance for molecular diffusion.In addition,it is found that the specific activity of enzyme depends on the size of water droplets,indicative of the importance of droplets in the reaction system.Moreover,effective recycling of BCL enzyme can be simply realized through demulsification by centrifugation.After 6 reaction cycles,the conversion is still as high as 86%,probably due to the avoidance of stirring that may cause damage to the three-dimensional structure of enzyme.This study demonstrates that the Pickering emulsion is an innovative platform for efficient enzyme-catalyzed transesterification without stirring or immobilization. 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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冰川水在人真皮淋巴管内皮细胞体外培养模型上的护肤功效研究 Skin protection efficacy evaluation of glacier water based on in vitro culture of human dermal lymphatic endothelial cells 蒋丹丹, 李慧, 姜山山, DOSSANTOS Morgan 2018 (4):  216-220.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2018.04.007 摘要 ( 366 )   PDF(2283KB) ( 362 )   采用两步免疫磁化分离方法,从正常人皮肤组织中分离并富集出真皮淋巴管内皮细胞,用于构建体外培养模型,经流式细胞仪检测细胞纯度指标即Podoplanin阳性细胞比例为95.7%。为评估喜马拉雅冰川水对真皮毛细淋巴管的功效,利用人真皮淋巴管内皮细胞构建毛细淋巴管通透性模型进行检测,结果显示冰川水处理后的淋巴内皮细胞层通透性是对照组的49.3%±17.0%(P<0.05);利用细胞爬片免疫荧光染色方法进行分析,结果显示冰川水处理组在胞间连接蛋白VE-Cadherin和ZO-1的表达量上均有显著提高(P<0.05),因此冰川水具有促进真皮毛细淋巴管稳定性的护肤活性。 Human dermal lymphatic capillaries were reported to have impact on skin homeostasis in recent researches.Human dermal lymphatic endothelial cells (HDLEC) were extracted from normal human skin biopsy and enriched with a two-step magnetic microbeads-based separation method.The proportion of Podoplanin-positive cells in HDLEC culture was evaluated by flow cytometry as 95.7%.To evaluate the skin care efficacy of Himalaya glacier water,an in vitro lymphatic capillary permeability test model was reconstructed based on HDLEC culture,and the test result shows the relative permeability of HDLEC monolayer turned to 49.3%±17.0% (P<0.05) after the treatment of glacier water compared with that from the untreated control.In the meantime,immuno-cytochemistry staining targeting endothelial cell-cell junction markers show relative expressions of VE-Cadherin and ZO-1 in glacier water-treated HDLEC are significantly up-regulated than the untreated control(P<0.05).Therefore,Himalaya glacier water is proved to be active in reinforcing the stability of dermal lymphatic capillaries to maintain skin homeostasis. 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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二氧化钛/氧化锌复合浆料在防晒配方中的应用 Application of titanium dioxide/zinc oxide composite slurry in sunscreen formulation 陈晓宇, 王灿, 于佳, 刘文杰, 姚超, 左士祥 2018 (4):  221-226.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2018.04.008 摘要 ( 470 )   PDF(4053KB) ( 467 )   将锌钛复合浆料应用到防晒霜配方中,考察了所得防晒霜的防晒性能、肤感及对配方理化性质(pH,耐热、耐寒及离心稳定性)的影响,并与市售TiO2、ZnO混合粉体、浆料进行对比。结果表明,在防晒性能方面,配方中活性物质量分数为8%时,含锌钛复合浆料配方的SPF值可达24,PA值为6,而含市售TiO2、ZnO混合粉体、浆料配方的SPF和PA值偏低,锌钛复合浆料同时具有协同增效屏蔽紫外线的能力(SPF值同比增长8%);在配方稳定性方面,经过冻融循环实验后,pH维持在7.2左右,解决了传统ZnO与水形成碱性络合物导致配方pH偏高的缺点;在感官评价方面,含锌钛复合浆料的配方,水润感较强,厚重感和油腻感较低,在涂抹时和涂抹后,起白不明显。 Zinc titanium composite slurry was applied to sunscreen formula,the sunscreen properties,skin feel and impact on physical and chemical properties (pH,heat resistance,cold resistance and centrifugal stability) of the sunscreens obtained were investigated.The investigated sunscreens were compared with commercially available TiO2,ZnO mixed powder and slurry.Results showed that the SPF value of the zinc-titanium composite slurry was 24 and the PA value was 6 when the active ingredient mass fraction was 8%,however,the SPF and PA values of formulations containing commercially available single mixed powder and slurry are relatively low,and the zinc-titanium composite slurry also has the synergistic UV shielding capability (SPF value increased by 8% compared with the same period of last year).In the aspect of formulation stability,after the freeze-thaw cycle experiment,the pH value can be maintained at about 7.2,which solves the disadvantage that the traditional complex formation of ZnO with water leads to the high formula pH.In the sensory evaluation,the formula containing zinc-titanium composite slurry has strong sense of moisture,low heavy and greasy sense,and unobvious white phenomenon after used. 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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椰子油脂质体保湿霜的制备和性能测试 Preparation and properties test of moisturizing cream based on coconut oil liposome 吕方方, 陈华, 宋菲, 李艳南 2018 (4):  227-230.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2018.04.009 摘要 ( 339 )   PDF(1451KB) ( 420 )   制备了椰子油脂质体并对其粒径分布及形态进行测定。将其应用于保湿霜的制备,对保湿霜进行了感官指标、理化指标、保湿性和抗氧化性测定。结果表明,椰子油脂质体粒径主要分布在10 μm,形态为圆形或椭圆形结构;在相对湿度43%±1%条件下,椰子油脂质体保湿霜保湿率可达65.84%±0.2%,且对DPPH自由基、羟自由基、超氧自由基清除率分别为5.98%±0.3%,63.64%±0.2%和14.10%±0.2%,均高于椰子油保湿霜,说明椰子油脂质体保湿霜能提高保湿霜的保湿性和抗氧化性。 Coconut oil liposome was prepared and its particle size distribution and morphology were measured.The coconut oil liposome was applied to the preparation of the moisturizing cream,of which the sensory index,physical and chemical indicators,moisture retention and anti-oxidation were tested.It is found that the size of coconut oil liposome is mostly 10 μm and the morphology structure is spherical or elliptical.Under the condition of relative humidity of 43%±1%,the moisture efficiency of the moisturizing cream based on coconut oil liposome can reach 65.84%±0.2%,and the scavenging rates of DPPH,hydroxyl and O2-radicals are 5.98%±0.3%,63.64%±0.2%,and 14.10%±0.2%,respectively,which are all higher than that of coconut oil moisturizing cream.This indicates that the moisturizing cream based on coconut oil liposome can enhance the properties of moisture retention and anti-oxidation. 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

专论与综述

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可聚合双子表面活性剂的研究进展 Research progress of polymerizable Gemini surfactants 李荣强, 张军丽, 赵金连, 韩瑜 2018 (4):  231-236.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2018.04.010 摘要 ( 267 )   PDF(755KB) ( 379 )   根据聚合基团结构特点,综述了可聚合双子表面活性的结构、性能及其聚合前后性质差异,并对可聚合双子表面活性剂的研究趋势和未来前景进行了展望。 The structures,properties and the differences before and after polymerization have been reviewed for polymerizable Gemini surfactants,according to the structure of polymerizable groups.The research tendency and the future of polymerizable Gemini surfactants are also prospected. 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

分析与检测

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HPLC-MS/MS测定化妆品中5种禁用胆碱类化合物 Determination of five kinds of choline compounds prohibited in cosmetics by HPLC-MS/MS 张瑞瑞, 杜伟锋, 岑建斌, 区硕俊, 寻知庆, 黄金凤 2018 (4):  237-242.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2018.04.011 摘要 ( 304 )   PDF(785KB) ( 498 )   建立了高效液相色谱-质谱/质谱(HPLC-MS/MS)测定化妆品中5种禁用胆碱类化合物的分析方法。样品经甲醇-水(V(甲醇)∶V(水)=3∶1)溶液涡旋振荡、超声辅助液分散提取,离心后经Welch Ultimate XB-C18 (4.6 mm×150 mm,5 μm)色谱柱分离。通过质谱电喷雾正离子模式(ESI+)电离、多反应监测模式(MRM)测定。在最优化条件下,5种禁用胆碱类化合物均获得良好分离,峰形对称性好。水杨酸胆碱在10.0~80.0 μg/L范围内线性良好,相关系数为0.999 1,其他胆碱在1.0~40.0 μg/L范围内线性良好,相关系数大于0.995 0;方法检出限和定量限分别在2.0~30.0 μg/kg 和6.0~90.0 μg/kg之间。添加回收实验结果表明,5种胆碱类化合物的回收率在85.4%~103.9%之间,日内精密度为1.9%~6.9% (n=6)。 A method was developed for the determination of five kinds of choline compounds prohibited in cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS/MS).The samples were oscillated and extracted with methanol-water solution (V(CH3OH)∶V(H2O)=3∶1) assisted by vortex and ultrasonic.Then,after centrifugation,the five target compounds were separated by Welch Ultimate XB-C18 column (4.6 mm×150 mm,5 μm).The analytes were ionized by electrospray ionization in positive mode (ESI+) and detected under MRM mode.Under the optimal conditions,the five choline compounds prohibited are all well separated with good symmetry of peaks.The choline salicylate shows good linear relationship in the concentration range of 10.0-80.0 μg/L with correlation coefficient of 0.999 1.Other choline compounds show good linear relationship in the concentration range of 1.0-40.0 μg/L with the correlation coefficients larger than 0.995 0.The limits of detection and quantification (LOD and LOQ) of the method are in the range of 2.0-30.0 μg/kg and 6.0-90.0 μg/kg,respectively.The recovery experiments of spiked samples show that,the recoveries of the five choline compounds are in the range of 85.4%-103.9% with RSDs ranging from 1.9% to 6.9% (n=6). 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标