当期目录

2018年, 第48卷, 第3期　刊出日期：2018-03-22 上一期    下一期

基础研究

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11-苄硒基十一羧酸铵盐的双重刺激响应性质 Dual stimuli-responsive properties of ammonium 11-benzylselanyl undecanoate 秦飞, 刘雪锋 2018 (3):  123-128.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2018.03.001 摘要 ( 274 )   PDF(3222KB) ( 255 )   合成了一种对氧化还原(Redox)和CO2/N2具有双重刺激响应的表面活性剂11-苄硒基十一羧酸铵盐(BSeUA),分别利用傅里叶红外光谱、核磁共振和电喷雾质谱等手段研究了BSeUA在Redox和CO2/N2刺激响应前后的分子结构变化特征。结果表明,在过氧化氢和水合肼交替作用下,BSeUA分子中二价硒醚基团(-Se-)与相应的四价硒亚砜基团(-Se=O)之间可以氧化还原可逆互变,在CO2和N2交替作用下,BSeUA分子中羧酸根(-COO-)与相应的羧酸(-COOH)之间可以可逆互变,从而实现BSeUA对Redox和CO2/N2具有双重刺激响应。分别在Redox和CO2/N2刺激作用下,由BSeUA稳定的乳液可以在破乳和再乳化2种状态下开关可逆循环至少5次,且乳液粒径和稳定性未发生明显变化。 A kind of redox and CO2/N2 dual stimuli-responsive surfactant ammonium 11-benzylselanyl undecanoate (BSeUA) was synthesized.The molecular structure change of BSeUA triggered by redox and CO2/N2 was studied with Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FT-IR),Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (NMR) and Electrospray Ionization Mass Spectrometry (ESI-MS).Results show that the selenium-containing group can be reversibly switched between bivalent selenide (-Se-) and tetravalent selenoxide (-Se=O) by alternately adding hydrogen peroxide and hydrazine hydrate,and the CO2-sensitive group can be reversibly switched between carboxylate (-COO-) and carboxylic acid (-COOH) by bubbling CO2 and N2.Thus,the BSeUA-stabilized emulsion can be switched reversibly between de-emulsification and re-emulsification over five times at least.No obvious adverse changes in droplet size and the relative stability of the regenerated emulsions are observed. 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

科技讲座

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化妆品功效评价(Ⅲ)——美白功效宣称的科学支持 Efficacy evaluation of cosmetics (Ⅲ) Scientific supports for whitening cosmetic efficacy claims 赵华, 王楠 2018 (3):  129-133.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2018.03.002 摘要 ( 686 )   PDF(694KB) ( 616 )   概述了皮肤颜色的影响因素、黑色素形成及美白机理,介绍了生物化学法、物理化学法、细胞生物学法、三维重组皮肤模型替代法、动物实验法、主观评价法、客观仪器评价法等美白化妆品功效评价方法,提供了美白功效评价的新思路,展望了美白化妆品功效评价方法的未来发展趋势。 The skin color influencing factors,melanin formation and skin whitening mechanism were summarized.Various methods for evaluating whitening cosmetics such as biochemical method,physicochemical method,cell biological method,three-dimensional recombinant skin model alternative method,animal experiment method,subjective evaluation and objective instrumental evaluation method et al were introduced.The new idea of whitening cosmetics efficacy evaluation was proposed and the development direction of it was put forward. 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

开发与应用

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疏水改性玉米麸皮阿拉伯木聚糖的性能研究 Performance of hydrophobic modified corn bran arabinoxylan 陈凤凤, 杨成 2018 (3):  134-139.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2018.03.003 摘要 ( 349 )   PDF(3128KB) ( 253 )   采用碱-过氧化氢法从玉米麸皮中提取碱溶性阿拉伯木聚糖(AX),然后分别用1-溴代丁烷、1-溴代十二烷和1-溴代十六烷对其进行疏水改性得到两亲性的烷基化阿拉伯木聚糖(Cn-AX)。利用荧光分子探针、动态光散射、扫描电子显微镜和流变仪对Cn-AX水溶液的性质进行研究,发现Cn-AX在一定质量浓度时水溶液中形成缔合聚集体。疏水缔合使Cn-AX水溶液的黏度高于AX水溶液。此外,通过制备一系列O/W型乳液,对AX和Cn-AX的乳化能力进行了评价。结果表明,乳液的稳定性受Cn-AX的烷基链长度和质量分数的影响,并且C16-AX的乳化性能优于常用的Tween 80。 Alkali-soluble arabinoxylan (AX) was extracted from corn bran by alkali-hydrogen peroxide method.Then,the amphiphilic alkylated arabinoxylans (Cn-AX) were obtained by hydrophobic modification of the AX with 1-bromobutane,1-bromododecane,and 1-bromohexadecane,separately.Performance of aqueous solution of the AX and hydrophobic modified AX (the Cn-AX) was investigated by fluorescent molecular probe,dynamic light scattering,scanning electron microscopy,and rheometer.Results show that the Cn-AX can form associated aggregates above a certain mass concentration in solution.The hydrophobic association led to a higher viscosity of the aqueous solutions of Cn-AX than that of aqueous solution of AX.In addition,the emulsifying power of the AX and Cn-AX was evaluated by preparing a series of oil-in-water emulsions.Results show that their emulsion stability is influenced by the length of alkyl chain and the mass fraction of the Cn-AX.The emulsifying power of Cn-AX prepared with 1-bromohexadecane is better than that of Tween 80,which is commonly used. 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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SDBS/DTAB复配微乳液驱与三元复合驱驱油效果研究 Study on crude oil flooding effect of SDBS/DATB blend microemulsion flooding agent and conventional three component flooding agent 殷代印, 贾江芬 2018 (3):  140-143.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2018.03.004 摘要 ( 306 )   PDF(643KB) ( 458 )   为探究阴-阳离子表面活性剂复配微乳液体系驱油效果,研究了SDBS与DTAB的最佳摩尔比以及复配表面活性剂的总质量分数确定最佳微乳液配方,并将复配的微乳液体系与三元复合驱进行驱油效果对比,说明微乳液驱的驱油能力。实验结果表明,复配微乳液驱油体系最佳配方为:正辛烷5 mL,水5 mL,总质量分数为1.5%的SDBS与DTAB的摩尔比为1∶4,正丁醇的质量分数为4%,NaCl的质量分数为5.2%。与水驱相比,微乳液驱采收率增幅为6.48%~7.56%;与三元复合驱相比,微乳液驱采收率增幅为0.06%~0.35%。 In order to explore the effect of crude oil flooding of the anionic and cationic surfactant blend microemulsion system,the optimized mole ratio between sodium dodecyl bezene sulfonate (SDBS) and dodecyl trimethyl ammonium bromide (DTAB) and the mass fraction of total surfactants were studied.Through comparing the crude oil flooding effect of the blend microemulsion system and that of the conventional three component oil flooding agent (ASP),the improvement for the crude oil flooding capacilty of the microemulsion flooding is indicated.Results show that the optimum formula of the blend microemulsion flooding system is suggested as:n-octane,5 mL;water,5 mL;1.5% mass fraction of SDBS and DTAB with molar ratio of 1∶4;mass fraction 4% of n-butanol;mass fraction 5.2% of NaCl.As comparing with water flooding,the recovery rate of microemulsion flooding increases from 6.48% to 7.56%.As comparing with ASP,the recovery rate of microemulsion flooding increases from 0.06% to 0.35%. 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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不同植物油脂对冷制皂入皂特性的影响 Effects of different vegetable oils on the characteristics of cold process soap 田文妮, 梁钻好, 曾丽萍, 李莉楠, 陆智, 杜冰 2018 (3):  144-150.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2018.03.005 摘要 ( 468 )   PDF(3063KB) ( 327 )   选用椰子油、棕榈油、橄榄油、山茶油、乳木果油、甜杏仁油、美藤果油和霍霍巴油8种植物油脂为原料,采用冷制工艺制作成3组不同含油量的植物油脂手工皂,研究了不同植物油脂对冷制皂入皂特性的影响,并对植物油脂复配制作的冷制皂进行肤感感官评价。结果表明,植物油脂的种类和含量对冷制皂的pH值影响不大,对其他入皂特性均有影响。椰子油冷制皂硬度高、起泡性强且泡沫丰富、Trace time短,与不饱和植物油脂复配入皂有助于缩短制作冷制皂的Trace time,提高冷制皂的硬度和起泡能力;山茶油、甜杏仁油和橄榄油入皂有助于起泡;橄榄油入皂有助于提高冷制皂的泡沫稳定性;乳木果油和霍霍巴油入皂起泡能力较差;美藤果油入皂滋润度高、泡沫细腻、洗感舒适、肤感评价最佳。 Coconut oil,palm oil,olive oil,camellia oil,shea butter,sweet almond oil,sacha inchi oil and jojoba oil were used as raw materials to make three groups of different vegetable oil content soaps by cold process for studying the effects of vegetable oil species on the characteristics of cold process soap.Eventually,the skin sensory evaluation of cold process soap made by blended vegetable oil were conducted.Results reveal that species and content of vegetable oils have no significant influences on the pH value of cold process soap,but have influences on all other characteristics of cold process soap.The cold process soap made from coconut oil has high hardness and foaming power,and rich in foam quantity,but short Trace time.Trace time of the soap is shortened when coconut oil is mixed with some unsaturated vegetable oils,while the hardness and foaming power of cold process soap are improved at the same time.Addition of camellia oil,sweet almond oil and olive oil in the soap contributes to foaming.The stability of foam can be enhanced by addition of olive oil;but foaming performance is deteriorated when shea butter and jojoba oil are added.When sacha inchi oil is used in the cold process soap,it will be obtained of the following performances like high moisturizing ability,exquisite foaming power,comfortable washing feeling,and best skin feeling. 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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基于脂质组学的青年女性早晚面部皮肤表面脂质差异分析 Analysis of facial skin surface lipid of female youth in morning and night based on lipidomics method 甘瑶, 何聪芬, 贺可可, 李欣超, 贾焱 2018 (3):  151-155.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2018.03.006 摘要 ( 312 )   PDF(907KB) ( 308 )   建立了基于脂质组学的面部皮肤表面脂质(SSL)采集、检测及分析方法。通过脂质组学方法采集和检测同一组青年女性早晚不同时间的SSL,运用统计学进行分析。结果表明,早晚面部SSL之间表现出明显的分组趋势,进一步的分析表明,早晚面部SSL的八大类脂质成分和含量均有差异,且常见的甘油三酯、甘油二酯和神经酰胺等脂质成分也有不同,提示这些差异脂质可能与不同节律下的皮肤状态有关。 The methods for skin surface lipid (SSL) collection,detection and analysis were established based on lipidomics.The SSL values of female youth from same group in morning and night respectively were tested and analyzed by statistics.Results show that there are significant differences of SSL between the two times,and the further study reveals that the composition and contents of eight kinds of lipids are quite distinct,and this is also adequate for some common lipids such as triglycerides,diglycerides and ceramide.These results indicate that the differences among SSL values may be related to diversified skin status under different seasonal and weather conditions. 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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美白面膜临床功效测试与分析 Clinical efficacy testing and analysis of skin whitening mask 孙常磊, 于晓霞, 朱丽平 2018 (3):  156-161.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2018.03.007 摘要 ( 598 )   PDF(2115KB) ( 335 )   对自研美白面膜产品进行临床功效测试,评价其美白效果。选择32名有效健康志愿者作为研究对象,每隔2 d使用一次美白面膜,连续8周,同时停用其他美白护肤品或面膜。分别于使用前0周及使用后2,4和8周,测试志愿者面部含水量、黑红度、L*值和b*值,并拍摄VISIA的正面、左侧和右侧面部图片。分析结果显示,使用美白面膜,能够显著提高皮肤含水量,提高皮肤亮度L*值和皮肤ITA°值,降低皮肤黑度和黄度b*值,同时还能够降低皮肤毛孔、皱纹及纹理分值,即美白面膜具有良好的美白、使皮肤细腻、减少皮肤皱纹和纹理的功效。 Self-developed whitening mask was tested on the clinical efficacy and its whiting efficacy was evaluated.At the inception of the study,32 healthy volunteers used the product every two days for eight weeks and disused any other whitening products at the same time.Respectively 0 weeks before use and 2,4 and 8 weeks after use,the skin stratum corneum hydration,black and red degrees,L* value and b* value were tested,and the pictures of front,left and right face were get by VISIA intelligent camera system.Results show that whitening mask can improve skin stratum corneum hydration,increase skin brightness L* value and ITA° value,reduce skin blackness and yellowness b* value.Meanwhile,the mask can reduce the skin pore value and wrinkle and texture score.Whitening and jaundice-eliminating mask has an excellent whitening efficacy, which also can make the skin smooth and delicate,reduce wrinkles and texture. 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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中华猕猴桃水提液清除羟自由基以及抑制酪氨酸酶活性的研究 Study on scavenging effect for hydroxyl radicals and inhibitory effect on tyrosinase in water soluble extracts fromChinese kiwifruit 张青, 徐勇威, 刘薇, 龚盛昭 2018 (3):  162-165.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2018.03.008 摘要 ( 251 )   PDF(734KB) ( 300 )   以Fenton反应产生羟自由基,测定中华猕猴桃水提液清除羟自由基的能力。以L-酪氨酸和L-多巴为底物,测定中华猕猴桃水提液对酪氨酸酶单酚酶和二酚酶活力的影响以及抑制动力学。实验结果表明:中华猕猴桃水提液对羟自由基有较好的清除作用,当水提液质量浓度为1.0 g/L时,羟自由基清除率达到了95.57%。中华猕猴桃水提液对酪氨酸酶单酚酶和二酚酶的活性均有较好的抑制作用,其半数抑制浓度(IC50)分别为0.28和0.35 g/L。动力学研究表明,中华猕猴桃水提液对酪氨酸酶二酚酶的抑制作用属于可逆过程,其抑制作用表现为混合型抑制。 Scavenging capacity for hydroxyl radicals in water soluble extracts from Chinese kiwifruit was detected.The hydroxyl radicals were generated from Fenton reaction.The inhibitory action of water soluble extracts from Chinese kiwifruit on the activity of monophenolase and diphenolase contained in tyrosinase were studied by using L-tyrosinase and L-DOPA as the substrates.Results show that the water soluble extracts from Chinese kiwifruit can scavenge hydroxyl radicals effectively.The hydroxyl radical elimination ratio of the water soluble extracts achieves 95.57% when the mass concentration is 1.0 g/L.The water soluble extracts from Chinese kiwifruit inhibit both monophenolase and diphenolase activities of tyrosinase effectively with IC50 at 0.28 and 0.35 g/L respectively.The study of kinetics show that the inhibitory mechanism of the water soluble extracts from Chinese kiwifruit on diphenolase is reversible,and the inhibitory type is the mixed-type inhibition. 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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棕榈酰三肽-5皮肤美白功效及机制研究 Skin whitening efficacy and mechanism study of palmitoyl tripeptide-5 高雅倩, 唐健, 王志勇, 魏晓丽, 蔡亚 2018 (3):  166-171.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2018.03.009 摘要 ( 1011 )   PDF(919KB) ( 519 )   采用MTT法检测细胞存活率,利用α-促黑素(α-MSH)诱导的B16小鼠黑色素瘤细胞模型和UVB照射诱导豚鼠皮肤色素沉着模型对棕榈酰三肽-5的美白功效进行评价。研究了其对细胞内酪氨酸酶活性、小眼畸形相关转录因子(MITF)和酪氨酸酶mRNA水平的影响。结果表明,棕榈酰三肽-5能够显著降低上清及细胞内的黑色素水平且无细胞毒性。进一步研究发现,棕榈酰三肽-5通过抑制酪氨酸酶活性,下调MITF和酪氨酸酶的mRNA水平,从而抑制黑色素的生成。在动物模型中,棕榈酰三肽-5能够显著降低UVB照射诱导的豚鼠皮肤色素沉着和黑色素分布区域灰度值(P<0.05)。 To evaluate skin whitening efficacy and mechanism of palmitoyl tripeptide-5,the cell viability was detected by MTT method,B16 guinea pig melanoma cell models treated by α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH) and hyperpigment of UVB-stimulated dorsal skin of guinea pigs were measured.Activity of tyrosinase,the mRNA expression of MITF and tyrosinase were investigated.Results show that palmitoyl tripeptide-5 exert a skin whitening efficacy by inhibiting melanin production via downregulation of MITF and tyrosinase expression,inhibiting activity of tyrosinase in melanocytes.Colorimetric analysis shows that the palmitoyl tripeptide-5 significantly inhibit the pigmentation and reduce the gray value in UVB-irradiated guinea pig dorsal skin area (P<0.05). 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

专论与综述

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表面活性剂水溶液相行为研究进展 Progress in research work field with respect to phase behavior of surfactant aqueous solutions 郭海燕, 姚晨之, 严方 2018 (3):  172-177.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2018.03.010 摘要 ( 309 )   PDF(717KB) ( 381 )   综述了关于表面活性剂溶液相行为研究的几种常用的方法和手段;介绍了表面活性剂几种复配体系相行为的研究进展;讨论了温度、盐和有机物种类等因素对表面活性剂溶液相行为的影响。 Several methods for studying the phase behavior of surfactant solutions were reviewed.The research progress of phase behavior of several surfactant blends were described.The effects of temperature,salt and organic matters on phase behavior of surfactant solutions were discussed. 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

分析与检测

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高效液相色谱法同时测定化妆品中的12种防腐剂 Simultaneous determination of 12 kinds of preservatives in cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography 韩晓萍, 李亚楠, 周霈 2018 (3):  178-182.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2018.03.011 摘要 ( 302 )   PDF(760KB) ( 357 )   采用高效液相色谱法同时测定不同种类化妆品中12种防腐剂的含量。样品用甲醇提取,经Phenomenex Luna C18色谱柱(4.6 mm×250 mm,5 μm)分离,流动相采用乙腈-0.1%磷酸溶液梯度洗脱,用280和254 nm波长同时进行检测,柱温30 ℃。结果表明,12种防腐剂在进样范围内线性关系良好,相关系数均大于0.996;4种不同基质中低(60%)、中(100%)、高(140%) 3个梯度的加样回收率为95.2%~112.1%,RSD为0.36%~2.64% (n=9)。40批次洗护类样品的测定结果表明方法具有较高的重现性和耐用性,可用于同时测定化妆品中12种防腐剂的含量。 HPLC method was established for simultaneous determination of 12 kinds of preservatives in cosmetics.Samples were extracted by methanol,then separated by Phenomenex Luna C18 column (4.6 mm×250 mm,5 μm) using acetonitrile and 0.1% phosphoric acid as mobile phase with gradient elution,the detection wavelengths were 280 and 254 nm,and the column temperature was 30 ℃.The calibration curves shows good linear relationship in the range of injection volume and all the correlation coefficients are above 0.996,the average recoveries spiked at 60%,100%,140% are in the range of 95.2%-112.1% with RSD of 0.36%-2.64% (n=9).The method shows good reproducibility and durability through detection of 40 batches of samples.It can be used for simultaneous determination of 12 kinds of preservatives in cosmetics. 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标