Table of Content

22 June 2019, Volume 49 Issue 6 Previous Issue    Next Issue

Basic research

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Synthesis and properties of sugar-based cationic gemini surfactants CAI Kun-liang,CHENG Rong,GAN Chang-sheng 2019, 49 (6):  351-357.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.06.001 Abstract ( 467 )   HTML ( 158 )   PDF (1423KB) ( 561 )   Three quaternary ammonium gemini surfactants based on glucose ester structure（7a, 7b and 7c）were prepared with glucose as one of the raw materials, in which the hydrophobic tails were all hexadecyl but the lengths of the methylene chains residing in the centre of the spacers were 4, 6 and 8 CH2 units, respectively. The surface activity and aggregation properties of these three gemini surfactants were determined. The results show that these three surfactants have good surface activities, among which 7c has the best surface properties（cmc = 1.32×10 -5 mol/L, γcmc = 29.14 mN/m）. The length of the methylene chain in the spacer of a gemini surfactant has a great influence on the cmc, that is, the cmc is significantly decreased with the increase of the methylene chain length. Moreover, these surfactants can spontaneously form micelles or vesicles in water, which is mainly related to the length of the spacer. The longer the spacer is, the easier vesicles will be formed. The formation of micelles and vesicles also has a certain relationship with the concentration of the surfactant. The formation of vesicles will be facilitated at higher concentrations of surfactants. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Lecture of science and technology

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Self-assembly of surfactants controlled by weak interactions（VI）Applications in catalysis SUN Pan-pan,ZHENG Li-qiang,SUN Ji-chao 2019, 49 (6):  358-362.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.06.002 Abstract ( 386 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF (1273KB) ( 332 )   When the surfactant solution reaches a certain concentration, a variety of ordered molecular aggregates with different structures and shapes can be formed. In this paper, the role of ordered molecular aggregates as a simple, economical and green reaction medium in the chemical reaction has been described. We focus on how aggregates such as micelles, reverse micelles, vesicles and microemulsions participate in the reactions involving carbon-carbon/carbon-heteroatom bond formation, Keep elimination reaction and aldol reaction. The effects of the photochromism surfactant on the selectivity and cycling of the catalyst in the coupling reaction are also discussed. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Development and application

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Preparation and characterization of the EGCG-loaded niosome and its cryogel SUN Xiang,LIANG Rong,YANG Cheng 2019, 49 (6):  363-368.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.06.003 Abstract ( 431 )   HTML ( 17 )   PDF (1549KB) ( 445 )   EGCG-loaded niosomes（EN）were prepared by ethanol injection method using Tween 60 and cholesterol as encapsulation materials. The effects of hydration methods and hydration media on the particle size, PDI, entrapment efficiency and loading capacity of EN were studied. The results showed that, when deionized water was used as hydration medium, the EN prepared at 12 000 r/min for 1 min had small particle size of 61.4 nm and a PDI of 0.189±0.020. High entrapment efficiency and loading capacity were achieved as 79.4% and 7.97%, respectively. The PVA/HA/EN cryogels were prepared by embedding EN into PVA/HA cryogels by freeze-thaw method. SEM characterization showed that the presence of EN in PVA/HA cryogels resulted in a porous structure, and EN was not damaged and kept the original particle size. Through the study on the release rate of PVA/HA/EN cryogels, it was found that PVA/HA/EN cryogels had better sustained release effects than the PVA/HA/ES cryogels which directly loaded with EGCG, when the EGCG concentration was the same. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Study on anti-aging activity of polysaccharides in Sanqi fermentation liquor LIU Ping-ping,YU Dan,WANG Chang-tao,YANG Fan,LI Meng,ZHANG Jia-chan 2019, 49 (6):  369-376.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.06.004 Abstract ( 405 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF (1343KB) ( 507 )   The fermentation liquor of Sanqi（Panax notoginseng）was obtained by the fermentation of Sanqi with yellow rice wine yeast. Sanqi polysaccharides were separated from such liquor and then purified. The anti-aging effect of polysaccharides in fermentation liquor of Sanqi was evaluated both on biochemical level and cellular level. The results show that, the semi-inhibitory concentrations（IC50）against DPPH free radical, hydroxyl radical and superoxide anion free radical are 1.528, 0.798 and 0.216 g/L, respectively. The polysaccharides from the fermentation liquor of Sanqi can significantly reduce both the levels of intracellular reactive oxygen and the content of MMP-1 in fibroblast culture medium, and they can also significantly increase the content of cell type I collagen. In the safe mass concentration range of fermented sanqi polysaccharides on fibroblasts, 10 senescence-related factors were detected, only col-Iα（type I collagen）is down-regulated, and all other factors are up-regulated, among which the expression of angiogenic factor Ang-1 is the highest. The above results indicate that the polysaccharides from Sanqi fermentation liquor has certain anti-aging effect. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Effects of three compounds on chromosome aberration in CHL cells induced by UV LI Pei-ning,CHEN Xiu-juan,JIANG Yi,LIU Dong-hong 2019, 49 (6):  377-380.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.06.005 Abstract ( 328 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (774KB) ( 338 )   The effects of CPZ, acid red 87 and alizarin red on chromosome aberration in CHL cells induced by UV were studied. The cytotoxicity test and chromosome aberration test of CHL cells exposed to the above three compounds were carried out at a UV dose of 2.0 J/cm 2. Chromosome aberration rate of CHL cells caused by these compounds were observed and analyzed. The results show that in vitro chromosome aberration test system of CHL cells is set up, and the three compounds had no chromosome aberration effect in the absence of UV. Under UV stimulation, CPZ causes chromosome aberration in CHL cells at a mass concentration range of 0.25-0.50 mg/L（without S9 mix）. Acidic red 87 induces chromosome aberration in CHL cells in the range of 15.62-31.25 mg/L（without S9 mix）and 31.25-62.50 mg/L（with S9 mix）. Alizarin red can not induce chromosome aberration in CHL cells. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Emulsifying properties of the mixture of steviol glycosides and soy protein isolate PENG Qing-rui,ZHANG Tong-tong,JI Xiang,ZHANG Yan-dong,XIA Yong-mei,LIU Xiang,FANG Yun 2019, 49 (6):  381-387.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.06.006 Abstract ( 438 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (1127KB) ( 801 )   With stevioside, rebauboside A and glucosylated steviol glycosides as the representative steviol glycosides, the interfacial activity and emulsifying ability of the mixtures of steviol glycosides （SG） and soy protein isolate （SPI）, namely SG-SPI, were investigated. It was found that the decrease of the corn oil-water interfacial tension caused by SG-SPI has correlation with the stability of the emulsion system. Compared with SPI and SG solely used, SG-SPI can obviously improve the thermal stability, pH stability and electrolyte stability of the emulsion. The ability of SG in reducing surface tension, which is increased with the increase of the number of glucose residues, is more effective than that of SPI. SG and SPI present a positive synergistic effect on the decrease of surface tension. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Inhibitory effect of sodium alginate on the activity of tyrosinase ZHENG Xi,CHEN Zhi-duo,ZHANG De-meng,QIN Yi-min,YI Cai-xia,HUANG Xiao 2019, 49 (6):  388-392.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.06.007 Abstract ( 584 )   HTML ( 17 )   PDF (997KB) ( 460 )   Enzyme inhibition kinetics experiments were carried out in vitro and in melanocytes to study the inhibitory effect of sodium alginate on the activity of tyrosinase and melanin deposition. The inhibition mechanism of sodium alginate on tyrosinase was analyzed by fluorescence spectroscopy, and the toxicity of sodium alginate on melanocyte was also investigated. The results show that within the concentration of 64 mmol/L, the cell viability was above 90%, indicating good biocompatibility. Sodium alginate had a certain inhibitory effect on tyrosinase activity and melanin production, which was in a concentration-dependent manner below the concentration of 20 mmol/L. The endogenous fluorescence of tyrosinase was partly quenched after interacting with sodium alginate. The redshift of the maximum emission wavelength appearing in the fluorescence spectrum of tyrosinase indicated that the interaction between sodium alginate and tyrosinase changed the hydrophobic environment of its amino acid residues. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Reviews

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Research progress on alternative methods for skin sensitization tests MEI Cheng-han,TAN Hong,YANG Hong-bo,CHEN Bei-bei,LIU Shi-bu,LIU Ting 2019, 49 (6):  393-397.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.06.008 Abstract ( 433 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (784KB) ( 550 )   In the present study, skin sensitization alternative methods, such as direct peptide reactivity assay（DPRA）, local lymph node assay（LLNA）, KerationSens TM, human cell line activation test（h-CLAT）and reconstructed human epidermis model（RHE model）sensitization test, were summarized, analyzed and compared. The integration of these alternative methods was introduced, and the development prospects of alternative methods for skin sensitization test were prospected. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Advances in the applications of Pickering emulsion in cosmetics YU Ming-ying,WANG Jing,YANG Cheng,CAO Guang-qun 2019, 49 (6):  398-402.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.06.009 Abstract ( 1115 )   HTML ( 88 )   PDF (1233KB) ( 1928 )   The recent progress in the applications of Pickering emulsion in cosmetics has been reviewed, including the preparation and stability of Pickering emulsions by some typical nanoparticles that available in cosmetics, the potential application of Pickering emulsion in encapsulation, controlled release and transdermal delivery of functional ingredients, and the advantages of Pickering emulsion polymerization in the fabrication of polymeric microspheres. The perspective in the future on application of Pickering emulsion in cosmetics has also been given. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Analytical methods and testing

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Determination of 15 quinolone antibiotics in cosmetics by liquid chromatography tandem mass spectrometry LU Jian,XUN Zhi-qing,WANG Chen-xia,GUO Xin-dong,YANG Yang,WU Zhong-ping 2019, 49 (6):  403-409.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.06.010 Abstract ( 309 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (842KB) ( 390 )   A high performance liquid chromatography tandem mass spectrometry（HPLC-MS/MS） method was established for the determination of 15 quinolone antibiotics in cosmetics. The samples were extracted with 0.1% formic acid acetonitrile solution, degreased with n-hexane, separated by Thermo Hypersil GOLD C18（2.1 mm×100 mm, 1.9 μm） column, then detected by triple quadrupole mass spectrometry multi-reaction monitoring mode（MRM） to determine retention time and relative ion abundance, and quantified by external standard method. The results show that all of the 15 quinolone antibiotics show good linearity in the range of 5.0-200 μg/L with the correlation coefficients greater than 0.995 0. The limit of detection and quantification of the method are 0.15 and 0.50 mg/kg, respectively. The average recoveries of the spiked samples were ranged from 80.1% to 104.9% and the relative standard deviations（RSD, n=6） were in the range of 1.0%-7.4%. The method is accurate and reliable, which meets the requirements of the determination of quinolone antibiotics in cosmetics. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research on rapid detection method of thermotolerant coliforms in cosmetics WEN Xia,LI Cai-ling,LIU Jing-xia,YANG Xiu-jiang,ZHANG Shu-yao,XIE Xiao-bao 2019, 49 (6):  410-414.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.06.011 Abstract ( 609 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF (945KB) ( 827 )   The study aimed to investigate the rapid detection method of thermotolerant coliforms in cosmetics. The 3M Petrifilm TM coliform count plate method and Loop-mediated isothermal amplification（LAMP）technique were used to rapidly detect thermotolerant coliform bacteria in artificially contaminated cosmetics, and compared with the traditional flat plate detection method. The results show that the 3M Petrifilm TM coliform test method and the traditional detection method have no statistical difference, and the operation procedure is simple. The LAMP technique has strong specificity, sensitivity of 2.03 μg/L, and is time-consuming. 3M Petrifilm TM coliform count plate method and LAMP technique can be used for rapid detection of thermotolerant coliforms in cosmetics. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Determination of para red in lip cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography HOU Guang-yue,ZHOU Li-li,BIAN Ying-fang,XU Shi-ming,DU Ying,ZOU Hui-ling 2019, 49 (6):  415-418.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.06.012 Abstract ( 275 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (845KB) ( 324 )   A high performance liquid chromatography（HPLC）method for the rapid determination of para red in lip cosmetics was established. The sample was dispersed by trichloromethane, ultrasonically extracted with acetonitrile, filtered, separated by a Waters SunFire C18 column（4.6 mm×250 mm, 5 μm）, and eluted equivalently with acetonitrile-water solution（volume ratio 85:15）as mobile phase. The elution was performed at a flow rate of 1.0 mL/min and the column temperature was set at 30 ℃. The analysis was done using photo-diode array detector. External standard approach was used for quantification. The results indicate that para red has a good linear relationship in the range of 0.1-10 mg/L and the correlation coefficient is 0.999 9. The limit of detection（LOD）is 0.20 μg/g, while the limit of quantification（LOQ）is within 0.60 μg/g. The average recoveries were in the range of 94.3%-103.8% at three spiked concentrations. The method is simple, rapid, accurate and reproducible, and is suitable for the determination of para red in lip cosmetics. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics