Loading...
Welcome to China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, Today is

Table of Content

    22 July 2019, Volume 49 Issue 7 Previous Issue    Next Issue
    Basic research
    Foamability of vanillin-based nonionic surfactants with different ethoxy chain length
    LI Ju-long,DING Feng-mei,ZHOU Xiang,XING Zhi-qi,ZHAO Tao
    2019, 49 (7):  419-425.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.07.001
    Abstract ( 382 )   HTML ( 136 )   PDF (1719KB) ( 424 )  

    The vanillin-based polyoxyethylene ethers(VAEO)with ethoxylated(EO)segments of 8, 10 and 12 EO units were studied by the foaming test. Nonylphenol ethoxylate with 10 EO units(NPEO10)was also investigated for comparison. The results show that the foamability of VAEO series is poor, and the foamability even becomes worse with the increase of EO number. For the same surfactant, the foamability first increases and then decreases with the increase of concentration. By analyzing the dynamic surface tension data in the early stage(less than 500 ms)and the static surface tension data of VAEO and NPEO10, it was found that the difference between static and dynamic surface tension was small, indicating that the restoring force was small and the foamability of the VAEO series was poor. Molecular dynamics were used to simulate the aggregation and migration of NPEO10 and VAEO8 in water, by which the effects of molecular structure on foamability were explored in combination with the dynamic surface tension within 100 ms. The results show that, the lower tendency of VAEO8 for aggregation in water makes it adsorb to the gas-liquid interface more easily during foaming, resulting in a low dynamic surface tension value, which is not good for foamability.

    Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics
    Lecture of science and technology
    The interactions between surfactants and nanoparticles and the construction of smart systems(I)——Switchable or stimuli-responsive surfactants and smart surfactant systems
    JIANG Jian-zhong,YU Shi-jie,CUI Zheng-gang
    2019, 49 (7):  426-434.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.07.002
    Abstract ( 455 )   HTML ( 19 )   PDF (1760KB) ( 381 )  

    Surfactants are one of the important chemical products, which have important applications in the fields of daily chemicals, industry, high technology and life science. It is a hot research topic to control the structure, function and properties of surfactants and to realize their cycle utilization, whereas switchable or stimuli-responsive surfactants have given a key to solve these problems. In this lecture, the fundamental knowledge of switchable or stimuli-responsive surfactants and relative smart systems have been introduced, focusing on various responsive groups and triggers including pH, CO2/N2, light, redox, magnetism and temperature.

    Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics
    Development and application
    Investigation on the foaming properties of surfactants with different structure in organic solvents
    YAN Yong-Li
    2019, 49 (7):  435-440.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.07.003
    Abstract ( 435 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (951KB) ( 633 )  

    The foaming properties for various organic solvents in the presence of surfactants with diverse structure were investigated. The foam volume and foam stability were determined by a foam attenuation method. The effects of surface tension, viscosity and solvent polarity on foaming properties were also analyzed. The experimental results showed that the anionic, nonionic and amphoteric surfactants under investigation could not produce foams in n-alkanes and aromatic hydrocarbons, while some of them only form foams in liquid paraffin and glycerin. The volume fractions of gas in foams for liquid paraffin and glycerin range from 66.6% to 83.3% and 72.2% to 83.7%, respectively, while the half-lives range from 0.21 to 1.44 min and 1.79 to 16.69 min, respectively. The best foaming agents are AEO-3 for liquid paraffin and OBS for glycerin. It can be concluded that the greater the polarity of the organic solvent, the better is its foaming capacity. The viscosity is only related to the stability of the foam formed from these solutions, and it is found that the decrease of surface tension of the non-aqueous solutions is not closely related to its foaming performance.

    Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics
    A study of alleviative effects of Chlamydomonas nivalis extract on skin damage caused by UVB
    LUO Wen-qian,HUANG Guo-meng,ZHANG Qian-hua,DENG Wen-juan,LIN Li,DU Zhi-yun
    2019, 49 (7):  441-445.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.07.004
    Abstract ( 738 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (1793KB) ( 805 )  

    The protective effects of Chlamydomonas nivalis extract on NIH-3T3 cells under the oxidative stress and skin photodamage induced by UVB were evaluated. The cytotoxicity of the extract and the protective effect against hydrogen peroxide on NIH-3T3 cells were evaluated by MTT method. Chlamydomonas nivalis extract was applied to the dorsal skin of mice after UVB irradiation daily for 28 days to complete the photoaging model. Moreover, the skin was analyzed by H&E staining and Masson staining, then the expression of IL-1, IL-6 and TNF-α was analyzed by immunohistochemistry(IHC). The results show that Chlamydomonas nivalis extract exhibits no obvious cytotoxicity for NIH-3T3 cells and increases the cell vitality under the oxidative stress. In animal experiment, the results of H&E staining show that UVB irradiation induces epidermis thickening and the collagen decreasing. The extract recovers the epidermis thickness and the collagen is increased. The increase of TNF-α and interleukin including IL-1 and IL-6 were induced by UVB, as shown in IHC results. The extract is shown to decrease the expression quantities of IL-1, IL-6 and TNF-α. Chlamydomonas nivalis extract protects the NIH-3T3 cells from oxidative stress induced by hydrogen peroxide and repairs the skin damage from UVB irradiation. It is speculated that the alleviative efficacy of Chlamydomonas nivalis extract may work by regulating oxidative stress and inflammation.

    Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics
    Ultrasonic-assisted extraction and decolorization of polysaccharides from the bark of Eucommia ulmoides Oliver.
    YANG Shen-ming,WANG Zhen-ji,WANG Hao-hua,ZHANG Tian
    2019, 49 (7):  446-451.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.07.005
    Abstract ( 298 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (963KB) ( 358 )  

    The polysaccharides from the bark of Eucommia ulmoides Oliver. were extracted by ultrasonic-assisted extraction. With the extraction rate of polysaccharides as the evaluation index, on the basis of single factor experiment, the extraction process of polysaccharides from the bark ofEucommia ulmoides Oliver. was optimized by orthogonal test; with the decolorization rate and the retention rate of polysaccharides as the evaluation indexes, the process of removing pigment in the polysaccharides extracted from the bark of Eucommia ulmoides Oliver. by activated carbon was optimized by orthogonal test. The results showed the optimum extraction technology of polysaccharides from the bark of Eucommia ulmoides Oliver., in which the liquid-solid ratio was 30∶1(mL∶g), the ultrasonic temperature was 50 ℃, the ultrasonic power was 400 W, and the ultrasonic time was 30 min. Under these conditions, the average extraction rate of polysaccharides from the bark of Eucommia ulmoides Oliver. is 2.16%, and the relative standard deviation(RSD)is 1.86%. The optimum conditions for decolorization of polysaccharides from the bark of Eucommia ulmoides Oliver. by activated carbon method are as follows: the dosage of activated carbon is 0.60%(m/m), the decolorization temperature is 60 ℃, the decolorization time is 50 min, and the pH of decolorization solution is 5.0. Under these conditions, the average decolorization rate is 76.20%, and the RSD is 2.46%; the average retention rate of polysaccharides is 62.68%, and the RSD is 2.35%.

    Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics
    Research on skin penetration of β-arbutin by confocal Raman spectroscopy
    LIU Juan,YANG Li,PANG Jian-ping,ZHENG Hong-yan,JIA Xue-ting,SU Ning
    2019, 49 (7):  452-455.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.07.006
    Abstract ( 502 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (1106KB) ( 391 )  

    The penetration of β-arbutin in the skin stratum corneum was studied by confocal Raman spectroscopy. This test method obtains the quantity information of penetration depth as well as amount after different application duration, providing a new non-invasive in vivo test method for the skin penetration of β-arbutin. The results show that the stratum corneum thickness of the 5 subjects is(18.05±2.96)μm, and the amount of β-arbutin in the skin increases gradually with duration, while decreases along with the increase of penetration depth after the single use of 15 min and 60 min of the test product. The confocal Raman spectroscopy technique is a novel in vivo test method, with the advantages of non-invasive and rapid detection of target ingredient in the skin. In addition, it measures the accurate skin depth, and provides a new detection method for penetration study of effective ingredients in cosmetics or drugs.

    Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics
    Reviews
    Research progress on detection and application of permitted hair dyes in hair-dyeing cosmetics
    GU Yu-xiang,ZHENG Yi,GU Cheng-hao
    2019, 49 (7):  456-463.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.07.007
    Abstract ( 508 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (794KB) ( 543 )  

    The categories and safety risks of hair-dyeing cosmetics, and the provision of permitted hair dyes in “Cosmetics Safety Technical Specifications”(2015 Edition)were presented. The detection standards and cutting-edge report methods referring the specific hair dyes which were legally permitted in the hair-dying products were introduced. The advantages and disadvantages of various detection methods were introduced, including HPLC, HPLC-MS, GC, GC-MS and etc. The article focused on the usage of permitted hair dyes in hair-dyeing cosmetics in the domestic market in recent year. Finally, the development trend of hair dye detection methods was proposed.

    Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics
    Enzymatic synthesis of alkyl glycosides
    WANG Di,WU Ling-fan,CUI Li
    2019, 49 (7):  464-469.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.07.008
    Abstract ( 375 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (923KB) ( 809 )  

    The biological synthesis of alkyl glycosides, including glycosidase selection, enzymatic glycosidation, enzymatic synthesis of alkyl glycosides, were reviewed. Compared with conventional chemical synthesis methods, enzymatic synthesis of alkyl glycosides provides an excellent alternative to environmental protection upgrading, and has great potential for exploitation and broad prospects. The enzymatic synthesis of alkyl glycosides in the future can be industrialized by the development of new genetic engineering enzymes using whole-cell catalysis

    Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics
    The display of natural elements in cosmetic packaging design Based on the perspective of natural relevance
    RONG Xi-ping,BO Hui-peng
    2019, 49 (7):  470-475.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.07.009
    Abstract ( 532 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (845KB) ( 506 )  

    The paper selects natural elements from many creative elements of cosmetic packaging design as the research object, studies the display of natural elements in cosmetic packaging design, and comprehensively excavates the elements of the visual image design for cosmetic packaging. The embodiment of natural elements in cosmetic packaging design is explained from the four aspects: graphics, color, language and text symbols, packaging materials. Finally, the five process-based design methods refine the natural elements into the innovative path of cosmetic packaging design, and realize the operability and scientificity of packaging design methods.

    Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics
    Analytical methods and testing
    Detection and analysis of thioglycolic acid contents in special hair perm products
    LIU Qi,YANG Ling,LIU Cheng-hao,HAN Xiao-qian,ZHANG Hua-jun
    2019, 49 (7):  476-479.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.07.010
    Abstract ( 455 )   HTML ( 1 )   PDF (1063KB) ( 326 )  

    Thioglycolic acid contents in 48 batches of special hair perm products were detected by HPLC, ion chromatography-conductivity detector and ion chromatography-UV detector. The differences and applicability of the three detection methods were studied. The overall adding data of thioglycolic acid in 48 batches of hair perm products was obtained, and the adding trend was analyzed. The results show that the ion chromatography-UV detector method can effectively eliminate the interference of impurities, and it is similar as the detection method of thioglycolic acid in the current “Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics”(2015 edition). It is recommended as a supplementary method. The contents of thioglycolic acid in all special hair perm products meet the upper limit standard established by the industry.

    Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics
    Determination of 11 kinds of plant whitening ingredients in cosmetics by ultra performance liquid chromatography
    GAO Jun-fei,ZHU Quan,DUAN Ting-ting,XIAO Shu-xiong
    2019, 49 (7):  480-484.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.07.011
    Abstract ( 466 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (978KB) ( 578 )  

    UPLC method was established for determination of 11 kinds of plant whitening ingredients in cosmetics. Samples were extracted by 50% methanol, then separated by Agilent Eclipse column(100 mm×2.1 mm, 1.8 μm)using methanol and the aqueous solution of 0.1% phosphoric acid as mobile phase with gradient elution. The detection wavelengths were 280 and 237 nm, and the column temperature was 30 ℃. All of the calibration curves show good linear relationship in the range of injection volume and all the correlation coefficients are above 0.999; the average recoveries of astringent, milk and facial mask are in the range of 98.57%~103.44%, 95.09%~112.43% and 92.90%~104.21% respectively, with RSD of 0.42%~2.96%, 0.98%~2.21% and 0.79%~2.67% respectively. The method shows good reproducibility and durability. It can be used for simultaneous determination of 11 kinds of plant whitening ingredients in cosmetics.

    Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics