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    22 December 2022, Volume 52 Issue 12 Previous Issue    Next Issue
    Basic research
    Preparation and characterization of ethyl cellulose-sodium alginate/chitosan microgels
    Qi Jiayue,Mao Yi,Chen Linqian,Wang Jing,Yang Cheng,Sun Yajuan
    2022, 52 (12):  1259-1268.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.001
    Abstract ( 2395 )   HTML ( 26 )   PDF (1930KB) ( 487 )  

    The porous nature of microgels allows soluble active ingredients to diffuse into or out of the particles. As a result, the release performance of microgels usually can only sustain for 5 hours, which greatly limits their application. Therefore, to solve the problems of the poorly sustained release performance of common microgel systems, a new type of (ethyl cellulose)-coated sodium alginate/chitosan (EC-Alginate/CS) microgel was prepared. An one-step emulsification method was employed to generate the new type of EC-Alginate/CS core-shell microgel. Ultra-depth microscope, scanning electron microscope (SEM), infrared spectroscopy (FT IR), thermogravimetric analysis (TGA), water contact angle (WCA) and swelling ratio were used to characterize the matrix hydrogels and microgels prepared at the same water phase composition to optimize the EC-Alginate/CS core-shell microgels. The cytotoxicity experiments showed that the cell viability of mouse mononuclear macrophages (RAW264.7) at 0.1 g/L was 89.3%, which could prove that the system had good biocompatibility at this concentration. It was found that the encapsulation efficiency (EE) of microgels could achieve 67.1%. The cumulative release effect of the model drug methyl blue (MB) showed that the system could achieve a sustained release of 15 h with a certain pH sensitivity. This study provided theoretical support and application reference for the bioavailable sustained-release system for water-soluble active substances, and it might be further applied to daily chemical products such as cosmetics and laundry detergents.

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    Study on the effects of pH on the properties of a fatty alcohol ether carboxylate
    Sun Bangping,Zhang Lu,Li Jun,Ju Hongbin,Geng Tao,Jiang Yajie
    2022, 52 (12):  1269-1277.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.002
    Abstract ( 1919 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (1647KB) ( 213 )  

    The properties of a fatty alcohol ether carboxylate (AEC-9Na) in acidic and alkaline conditions was tested. Its equilibrium surface tension, dynamic surface tension, adsorption kinetics, dynamic contact angle, wetting properties, emulsification properties and foaming properties at different mass concentrations and different pH values were studied. The results show that, the samples have better surface activity and wettability in acidic conditions, which may ascribed to the highly dependence of the ionization of surfactant molecules on pH. In terms of application performance, the samples showed good foamability but poor foam stability in alkaline conditions. In the case of alkaline conditions, the ionization of carboxyl groups was increased and the electrostatic repulsion of ionic headgroups was increased, resulting in more easily broken foams. Such mechanism can also explain the phenomenon observed in emulsification experiments. The present work, indicative of the different behaviors of fatty alcohol ether carboxylates at different pH, may provide some theoretical support for subsequent research and industrial application.

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    Lecture of science and technology
    Common cosmetic preparation technologies(Ⅵ) Preparation sharing properties of both solids and liquids: Semisolid
    Tang Wenjun,Wang Changyun,Xu Guiyun,Niu Qianxue,Fan Jinshi
    2022, 52 (12):  1278-1285.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.003
    Abstract ( 1514 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (1190KB) ( 406 )  

    Semisolid is one kind of natural existing material state in nature, and is also a very important product preparation among many different industry fields. Possessing dual properties of both solid and liquid, semisolid is a kind of concentrated dispersion system with non-Newtonian rheological behavior. Semisolid usually appears as paste with right consistency, which is made up of uniformly mixed particular active ingredients and suitable base materials. Semisolid preparations have been widely used in medicine, cosmetics, daily-use chemicals, food, agriculture, papermaking, textile, printing, dyeing and the other fields. Being a quite important cosmetic preparation, semisolid has many fascinating advantages, such as abundant types, easy manufacture, convenient use, stable quality, high efficiency and versatile functions. Herein, the composition and rheological property, the base substances and active components, the essential requirements and production methods of semisolid are totally introduced. The characteristics, composition and applications of some typical semisolid cosmetics are also presented in detail. Meanwhile, the main research content and key development directions of semisolid on which continuous attention should be paid are also briefly pointed out.

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    Development and application
    Fabrication of phase change microcapsules via nano-chitin stabilized Pickering emulsion
    Chen Yunbo,Li Xinyi,Mao Zhiping,Xu Hong,Sui Xiaofeng
    2022, 52 (12):  1286-1292.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.004
    Abstract ( 1958 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (2301KB) ( 344 )  

    Phase change microcapsules can enhance the thermal and mechanical performance of phase change materials used in thermal energy storage by increasing the heat transfer area and preventing the leakage of materials. In this paper, nano-chitin was prepared by a simple and efficient method, and then a Pickering emulsion was prepared by stabilizing paraffin with the nano-chitin. Finally, phase change microcapsules were obtained by emulsion template method. The effects of hydrochloric acid steaming time, nano-chitin suspension concentration and core-shell ratio on the surface morphology and particle size of microcapsules were studied. The results showed that, when the steaming time was 5 h, the concentration of nano-chitin suspension was 0.5%, and the core-shell ratio was 3∶1, the particle size of the microcapsules obtained was 29.6 μm and the melting enthalpy was up to 187.4 J/g, correspondingly indicative of an encapsulation rate of 71.6%. The thermal stability and thermal cycling performance of microcapsules were characterized by thermogravimetric analysis and heating/cooling cycle, showing a good thermal cycling stability.

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    Analysis of flavonoid metabolic pathways of different varieties of Phalaenopsis and their molecular mechanism
    Cheng Ling,Wang Jianping
    2022, 52 (12):  1293-1299.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.005
    Abstract ( 1570 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (1397KB) ( 359 )  

    High performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) was used to study the flavonoid metabolism pathways of 18 Phalaenopsis. A HPLC technology was established to analyze the pathway of flavonoid metabolism (regulate color). Fluorescence quantitative PCR (Real-Time PCR) was used to further analyze the expression level of key genes in Phalaenopsis flavonoid synthesis pathway, and an Agrobacterium-mediated transient transformation of Phalaenopsis was used to obtain transgenic strains. Phalaenopsis HPLC separation technology can successfully separate 29 components, which is quite different from other species of grape and hyacinth. Real-Time PCR analysis of the key genes in the flavonoid synthesis pathway of different species of Phalaenopsis finds that the temporal and spatial expression patterns of Chalcone synthase (CHS), Flavonol-3-hydroxylase (F3H) and Chalcone isomerase (CHI) of different species are basically the same. The key enzyme gene RNAi interference vector is constructed by Agrobacterium-mediated method to transform Phalaenopsis transiently. The interference expression of key enzyme genes in the flavonoid synthesis pathway will reduce the color of Phalaenopsis. In conclusion, the HPLC research method of Phalaenopsis flavonoid metabolism pathway is established, and its molecular mechanism is preliminary studied, which provids a theoretical and practical basis for revealing the color regulation mechanism of Phalaenopsis orchids.

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    Study on the mixing properties of a new surfactant for daily cosmetics
    Zheng Liyan,Fan Zhijun
    2022, 52 (12):  1300-1306.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.006
    Abstract ( 252 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (1347KB) ( 285 )  

    The mixing properties of a new surfactant for daily cosmetics were studied. Surfactant mixtures (NPG) were prepared by mixing sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) with the new surfactant (HDBC) which was a derivative of ethylene glycol bissuccinate containing monochlorohydroxypropyl, quaternary ammonium and sulfonate groups in different mixing ratios. Surface tension, wettability, hydrophilic-lipophilic balance, emulsifying property and foam property were tested. The results showed that when the mass concentration of the mixed surfactants reached 10 g/L, the minimum surface tension reached 31.5 mN/m, indicative of good surface activity. The surface tension of the new surfactant mixtures was decreased with the increase of mass concentration. The contact angle of the mixed surfactant solution was decreased with concentration, showing good wettability. The HLB values of the new surfactant mixtures were in the range of 10-18, showing good hydrophilicity. In addition, when the molar ratio of HDBC to SDS was 5∶5 and the mass fraction of NPG was 80%, the foam performance and emulsification performance were good.

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    Effects of potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein on the performance of the amino acid facial cleanser
    Guo Hua,Xu Jin,He Yunping,Xu Hujun
    2022, 52 (12):  1307-1313.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.007
    Abstract ( 1130 )   HTML ( 20 )   PDF (1665KB) ( 377 )  

    Sodium cocoyl glycinate is a common amino acid surfactant with reasonable price. It is highly biodegradable, resistant to hard water, and has excellent foaming ability, which has been widely used in personal care amino acid cleansers. However, the amino acid cleansing cream prepared by using a surfactant alone (i.e., sodium cocoyl glycinate), has poor foaming performance and stability, so it is necessary to obtain amino acid cleansers with excellent foam performance, bright appearance and good stability by compounding other surfactants. Within a certain pH range, the effects of four mild surfactants on the crystalline amino acid facial cleanser prepared with sodium cocoyl glycinate as the main surfactant were studied. The crystallizing temperature, high-temperature stability, appearance, foaming performance and irritation were measured. Through comparative experiments, the results show that potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein can significantly improve the crystallizing temperature and high-temperature stability of the cleansing cream. The foam volume was tested by the Ross-Miles foam analyzer, and the results show that potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein can increase the foam volume of the cleansing cream and improve the foam stability. The results of the appearance of the cleansing cream as observed by a polarizing microscope show that, potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein has benefit in forming more uniform and fine crystals. The irritation of the cleansing cream was tested by zein test, and the results show that potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein can significantly reduce the irritation of the cleansing cream system, making the cleansing cream milder. In conclusion, potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein can improve the performance of crystalline amino acid cleansing cream with sodium cocoyl glycinate as the main surfactant. This work may contribute in developing stable amino acid cleansing cream for the personal care industry.

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    Isolation of Himalayan soil yeast and efficacy of its fermentation filtrate on skin cell
    Wang Fenglou,Chong Anjoe,Li Jun
    2022, 52 (12):  1314-1319.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.008
    Abstract ( 153 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (1413KB) ( 208 )  

    This study aims to investigate the efficacy of the fermentation filtrate of Saccharomyces cerevisiae SC03 isolated from the rhizosphere soil of Gentiana scabra in Himalayan region on the human skin fibroblasts and keratinocytes. The results of this study also provide a reference for further promoting the application of microbial resources from the Himalayan region in the field of cosmetics. Soil yeast strains were isolated and screened from the rhizosphere soil samples collected from Nyingchi, Tibet, and the efficacy of the fermentation filtrate on the human skin fibroblasts and keratinocytes was explored. The results indicate that the genome of SC03 is very similar to that of the model yeast strain S. cerevisiae S288c, but also has special features. The fermentation filtrate of S. cerevisiae SC03 at a content of 0.5%-5% does not show cytotoxicity to human skin fibroblasts and keratinocytes. The fermentation filtrate of S. cerevisiae SC03 at a content of 1% significantly promotes the synthesis of Laminin332 in keratinocytes and inhibits the increase of ROS caused by UV irradiation, which is 81.16% and 22.17%, respectively. The fermentation filtrate of SC03 at a content of 2% significantly promotes DNA and ATP content of dermal fibroblasts and reduces cellular senescence-associated β-galactosidase positivity, which is 15.43%, 12.89%, and 15.40%, respectively. These results suggest that the rhizosphere soil yeast fermentation filtrate has an effect of anti-oxidant, anti-aging and skin nutrition, which has the potential for further development and utilization in cosmetics production.

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    Study on the anti-inflammatory effect of Aloe vera gel
    Li Xiaomin,Zhang Hongxia,Fan Ying,Yuan Liwen,Tang Niang,Zheng Jinrong,Yan Yongtao
    2022, 52 (12):  1320-1325.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.009
    Abstract ( 236 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF (1566KB) ( 330 )  

    This study is to dissect the effect and mechanism of Aloe vera gel on anti-inflammation. The ear inflammation model of male Kunming (KM) mice was induced by phorbol ester (TPA). The accumulation of neutrophils in the lateral line region of zebrafish embryos was tested using copper sulfate. The inhibitory effect of Aloe vera gel on the secretion of cytokines in RAW264.7 cells, including TNF-α and IL-6, was studied in lipopolysaccharide (LPS) - induced inflammation model. The minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) and inhibitory rate of aloe gel against Staphylococcus aureus and Propionibacterium acnes were also studied via broth microdilution method and suspension quantification method, respectively. The model of ear inflammation is successfully established in male KM mice, and Aloe vera gel inhibits the ear swelling of mice at 1.5 g/mL (P<0.05). Aloe vera gel significantly inhibits neutrophil aggregation in zebrafish embryos at 0.7 and 2.50 mg/mL (P<0.01). Aloe vera gel significantly inhibits the secretion of TNF-α and IL-6 in RAW264.7 cells at 0.75, 1.50 and 3.00 mg/mL (P<0.01). The MIC of aloe gel against Staphylococcus aureus and Propionibacterium acnes are 12.5 and 3.125 mg/mL, respectively. The inhibitory rate of aloe gel against Staphylococcus aureus and Propionibacterium acnes increases with the prolongation of the action time and concentration of Aloe vera gel. Aloe vera gel achieves anti-Inflammatory effect possibly through anti-inflammatory pathway of reducing neutrophil aggregation and inhibiting the production of inflammatory factors TNF-α and IL-6, as well as directly inhibiting Staphylococcus aureus and Propionibacterium acnes.

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    Effect of recombinant humanized type Ⅲ collagen on expression of skin functional related genes
    Fan Ting,Zhao Jianfeng,Chang Yejun,Ji Le
    2022, 52 (12):  1326-1332.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.010
    Abstract ( 475 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF (1323KB) ( 489 )  

    At present, the extraction of collagen is mainly from animal skin tissues, such as pigs, cattle, fish, and so on, which has certain virus hidden trouble. In order to obtain safer and better collagen, scholars have used gene recombination technology to produce recombinant human collagen. Type Ⅲ collagen is the main collagen in human skin, so the use of recombinant type Ⅲ collagen is of great significance for the study of skin properties. The recombinant humanized type Ⅲ collagen is obtained by optimizing recombinant expression of a human collagen original gene sequence that is highly consistent with a human natural collagen amino acid sequence. In order to explore the effect of recombinant humanized type Ⅲ collagen on alleviating skin wrinkles when applied to cosmetics, its anti-wrinkle effect was verified at the skin functional gene level by testing on human skin fibroblasts and keratinocytes. The results show that 5 mg/mL RHC Ⅲ can significantly promote the expression of collagen synthesis-related genes Collagen Ⅰ, Collagen Ⅲ and Smad3 in human skin fibroblasts. Meanwhile, under UVA stimulation, the expression of collagen degradation related genes MMP-1, MMP-3, c-jun and c-fos can be significantly inhibited. Acting on keratinocytes can significantly promote the expression of skin barrier and moisturizing-related genes LOR, TGM1, IVL, OCLN1, DSG1, FLG, Caspase14 and K1.To sum up, the sample recombinant type Ⅲ collagen has anti-wrinkle effect at the mass concentration of 5 mg/mL.

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    Analytical methods and testing
    Determination of 15 kinds of dyestuffs in hair dyes by high performance liquid chromatography
    Liu Yun,Liu Jie,Huang Wei,Ding Xiaoping,Li Lixia,Li Hongying
    2022, 52 (12):  1333-1341.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.011
    Abstract ( 166 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (1183KB) ( 608 )  

    The aim of the study was to establish a detection method for determination of 15 kinds of dyestuffs in hair dyes by high performance liquid chromatography(HPLC). The 15 kinds of dyestuffs were extracted with the mix of ethanol and water(Vethanol Vwater=6∶4) by the ultrasonic extraction method. The separation was performed on a Welch Xtimate-C18 column(4.6 mm×250 mm,5 μm) by gradient elution with the solution of 0.02 mol/L ammonium acetate and acetonitrile and determined by photo-diode array detector. The flow rate was 1.0 mL/min and the detection wavelength was 230 nm. The results indicate that each compound shows good linearity in its own concentration range with the correlation coefficient of R2>0.995.The limits of detection(LOD) are in the range of 0.86-7.63 μg/g. The average recoveries are ranged from 85.42% to 114.61%, and the relative standard deviation(RSD) is in the range of 0.72% to 8.65%. The method is simple, rapid, reliable and accurate, which is suitable for determination of 15 kinds of restricted dyestuffs in hair dyes.

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    Determination of 8 components in Zhuifeng Huoxue Ointment by high performance liquid chromatography
    Wan Liujing,Zhang Li
    2022, 52 (12):  1342-1347.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.012
    Abstract ( 107 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (1132KB) ( 155 )  

    A high performance liquid chromatographic (HPLC) method was developed for determination of the eight components in Zhuifeng Huoxue Ointment, namely, brucine, aconitine, strychnine, angelica, frankincense, myrrh, ecdysterone and sinomenine. The chromatographic column was an Agilent ZORBAXSB-C18 column (4.6 mm×250 mm, 5 μm); the mobile phase was methanol (phase A) and 0.1% aqueous solution of H3PO4 (phase B); the flow rate was 1.0 mL/min; the column temperature was room temperature; the detection wavelength was 256 nm. The average recoveries ranged from 98.74%-99.67%, and the relative standard deviations (RSDs) were in the range of 0.85%-1.76%. The content of strychnine, aconitine, brucine, angelica, frankincense, myrrh, ecdysterone and sinomenine in the five batches of samples were 0.031-0.349, 0.021-0.166, 0.024-0.298, 0.021-0.219, 0.017-0.186, 0.015-0.158, 0.015-0.149, 0.016-0.179 mg/g, respectively. The HPLC method developed is simple, stable and controllable, and can be used for the quality control of Zhuifeng Huoxue Ointment.

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    Determination of methyl methylanthranilate by high performance liquid chromatography in sunscreen cosmetics
    Wu Zhishan,Jiang Chengjun,Yin Shuai,Huang Haiping,Zhang Wei
    2022, 52 (12):  1348-1352.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.013
    Abstract ( 163 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (1365KB) ( 214 )  

    A high performance liquid chromatography(HPLC) method was established for the determination of methyl methylanthranilate in sunscreen cosmetics. After extraction, sonication and filtration, the samples were separated by Welch Xtimate® C18 chromatographic column, and qualitative and quantitative analysis were carried out by HPLC with PDA detector. Under the experimental conditions, there is a good linear relationship between peak areas and methyl methylanthranilate concentrations with the r value is 0.999 6. The detection limit is 0.009%, and the limit of quantification is 0.029%. The average recoveries are in the range of 99.33%-111.5% and the relative standard deviations are in the range of 0.3%-3.0%. This accurate and exclusive method is suitable for the qualitative and quantitative analysis of methyl methylanthranilate in sunscreen cosmetics.

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    Determination of squalane in cosmetics by gas chromatography
    Guo Chunjing,Jiang Yunjie,Cheng Hengguang,Li Xiaoxia,Jiang Qing,Wu Kaibin
    2022, 52 (12):  1353-1358.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.014
    Abstract ( 377 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF (1187KB) ( 245 )  

    A gas chromatographic method was established for determination of squalane in cosmetics. The GC instrument conditions and sample pretreatment process were optimized. The water-soluble cosmetics were extracted with petroleum ether, while the fat-soluble cosmetics were saponified with potassium hydroxide-ethanol solution and then extracted by n-hexane. The extraction liquid was concentrated by nitrogen-blowing, redissolved with n-hexane and brought to volume with n-hexane. The sample was analyzed on an HP-5 column with temperature programming, detected by an FID detector, and quantitated using external standard method. The results showed that, the optimal injection volume was 1 μL, the best saponification temperature was 80 ℃, the optimal saponification time was 30 min, the optimal number of times for extraction was 3, the relative standard deviation of instrument repeatability was 1.13%, and a good linear relationship was obtained between the mass concentration range of squalane from 1 to 1 000 μg/mL with the correlation coefficient of 1.The limits of detection and quantitation were 1 mg/kg and 3 mg/kg, respectively. At low, medium and high levels, the spiked recoveries ranged from 92.7% to 103.5%, and the range of relative standard deviation was 1.83%-5.39%. This method is simple in experimental operation, and has good repeatability, good precision, high sensitivity and reliable accuracy. It can accurately determine the content of squalane in cosmetics.

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    Reviews
    Overview of the application of bioinformatics and digital technology in the field of cosmetics
    Yu Xiaoqian,Jia Yan,Li Junxiang,He Congfen
    2022, 52 (12):  1359-1365.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.015
    Abstract ( 1339 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF (990KB) ( 270 )  

    With the development of information technology and digital technology, various industries have used these technologies in many segments such as research and development, production, management, and sales. The cosmetics industry chain includes the mechanism research of skin condition and problems, raw material development, formula design, supervision and evaluation of efficacy and safety, company management, product production, publicity and sales, etc., involving chemistry, medicine, skin science, material science, law, art and media, etc. This article introduces the concepts of each technology from the perspective of biological information technology such as omics and network pharmacology and digital management, A.I. and machine learning, big data and other digital technologies, and summarizes the application of each technology in the corresponding segments in cosmetics or other related fields, such as food, and pharmaceuticals. Modern bio-information technology and digital technology have played an active role in saving costs, streamlining processes, improving efficiency, and promoting innovation in the corresponding segments. This information will help understand the digital progress in the cosmetics field and provide new insights into the use of information technology and digital technology in the cosmetics field.

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    Research progress in cosmetics applications and properties of mycosporine-like amino acids
    Fan Gaoning
    2022, 52 (12):  1366-1372.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.016
    Abstract ( 664 )   HTML ( 34 )   PDF (1162KB) ( 503 )  

    Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) are a class of secondary metabolites of aquatic organisms, which are widely distributed in algae, phytoplankton, cyanobacteria, microorganisms and marine animals. MAAs are low-molecular-weight (generally<400 Da), colorless and water-soluble compounds. They are highly stable molecules under environmental conditions. They are composed of either an aminocyclohexenone or an aminocyclohexenimine ring. Multiple lines of evidence have supported that MAAs are derived from intermediates of the shikimate pathway and the pentose phosphate pathway. MAAs maximally absorb in the wavelength region of 268-362 nm and also exhibit high molar absorptivities (12 400-58 800 L/(mol·cm)). Therefore, due to these characteristics, they are the strongest UVA-absorbing compounds in nature. MAAs have potential for development as natural biocompatible sunscreens that protect against a diverse range of solar UVR which has induced adverse effects on human health. In addition, MAAs have additional protective roles such as antioxidant function and anti-aging. Herein, the research on the distribution, chemical structure, physico-chemical characteristics, biosynthesis, bioactivities of MAAs and their application in cosmetics are mainly introduced.

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