常用化妆品成型技术（Ⅵ）——固液兼备：半固体

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.003

Abstract

Abstract:

Semisolid is one kind of natural existing material state in nature, and is also a very important product preparation among many different industry fields. Possessing dual properties of both solid and liquid, semisolid is a kind of concentrated dispersion system with non-Newtonian rheological behavior. Semisolid usually appears as paste with right consistency, which is made up of uniformly mixed particular active ingredients and suitable base materials. Semisolid preparations have been widely used in medicine, cosmetics, daily-use chemicals, food, agriculture, papermaking, textile, printing, dyeing and the other fields. Being a quite important cosmetic preparation, semisolid has many fascinating advantages, such as abundant types, easy manufacture, convenient use, stable quality, high efficiency and versatile functions. Herein, the composition and rheological property, the base substances and active components, the essential requirements and production methods of semisolid are totally introduced. The characteristics, composition and applications of some typical semisolid cosmetics are also presented in detail. Meanwhile, the main research content and key development directions of semisolid on which continuous attention should be paid are also briefly pointed out.

Key words: semisolid, rheology, cosmetics, preparation, application

CLC Number:

TQ658

Tang Wenjun,Wang Changyun,Xu Guiyun,Niu Qianxue,Fan Jinshi. Common cosmetic preparation technologies（Ⅵ） Preparation sharing properties of both solids and liquids: Semisolid[J].China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2022, 52(12): 1278-1285.

Figures/Tables 6

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References 38

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种类	物质	特性
植物系油质物质	花生油、棉籽油、杏仁油、橄榄油、可可脂、木蜡等	乳化后对角质的附着性较好；长期贮存会酸败
动物系油质物质	豚脂、羊毛脂、蜂蜡、鲸蜡、虫胶蜡等	对皮肤有较好的柔软、渗透和润滑作用；长期置于光线、空气及高温下易分解或腐败
矿物油质物质	液体石蜡、凡士林、石蜡、地蜡等	沸点高，来源丰富，容易制取，不易腐败，性质稳定，价廉物美，应用广泛
合成油质物质	硅油、合成地蜡、OP蜡等	可起到增进爽滑细腻感、光亮感等作用，结构及性质可调

产品	HLB值范围	乳化剂用量/%
O/W型保湿润肤霜	14~16	10
精油	17	/
剃须膏	8	3
O/W型洁面膏	9	3
O/W型手霜	8	/
O/W型头发修饰品	4	3
O/W型护唇香脂	6	4
香波	14~15	2~10
O/W型防晒霜	11	10
O/W型除臭霜	8	3
O/W型雪花膏	3~7	2
O/W型护手乳液	13	3
O/W型通用霜膏	6	2
O/W型冷霜	5~16	5~15
液体皂	14	/

成分	主要功能	代表性原料
油脂	赋予皮肤柔软性、润滑性、铺展性、渗透性	各种植物油、三甘油酯、支链脂肪醇类、支链脂肪酸酯、硅油等
乳化剂	形成W/O或O/W体系	非离子表面活性剂、阴离子表面活性剂
流变调节剂	分散和悬浮作用，增加稳定性，调节流变性，改善使用感	羟乙基纤维素、汉生胶、卡波姆等
保湿剂	角质层保湿	多元醇及透明质酸钠等
防腐剂	抑制微生物生长	尼泊金酯类、甲基异唑啉酮类、甲醛释放体类、苯氧乙醇类等
抗氧化剂	抑制或防止产品氧化变质	二丁基羟基甲苯（BHT）、丁基羟基茴香醚（BHA）、生育酚
着色剂	赋予产品颜色	酸性稳定性的水溶性着色剂
功效活性组分	赋予特定功能（抗皱、营养、美白）	美白、营养、抗皱等活性物质
香味剂	赋香	香精香料

组分	功能	原料
主表面活性剂	清洁和起泡	脂肪醇硫酸钠、脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚硫酸钠、脂肪醇硫酸铵、脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚硫酸铵、仲烷基磺酸钠
辅助表面活性剂	稳泡、增黏、降低刺激性	椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱、氧化胺、烷醇酰胺、咪唑啉、烷基糖苷、脂肪酸甲酯磺酸盐
调理剂	调理作用（柔软、抗静电、润滑、光泽）	季铵化羟乙基纤维素、聚季铵盐-10、阳离子瓜尔胶、十六烷基甲基氯化铵、乳化硅油
流变调节剂	调节黏度、提高稳定性	电解质（如NaCl、NH₄Cl）、聚乙二醇双硬脂酸酯、聚乙二醇、甲基葡萄糖二油酸酯、季戊四醇硬脂酸酯、水溶性聚合物
珠光剂	赋予产品珠光	乙二醇双硬脂酸酯、乙二醇单硬脂酸酯
螯合剂	络合钙、镁和其它金属离子	EDTA二钠、EDTA四钠
酸度调节剂	调节pH值	柠檬酸、乳酸
色素	赋予产品颜色	化妆品用色素
香精	赋香	化妆品用香精
防腐剂	抑制微生物生长	尼伯金酯类、乙内酰脲（DMDMH）、卡松（Kathon）
功能添加剂（去屑剂、植物提取液等）	赋予各种特定功能（如去头屑、特效、修复等）	吡啶硫铜锌、吡罗克酮乙醇胺盐（OCT）、芦荟提取液、金缕梅提取液等

Common cosmetic preparation technologies（Ⅵ） Preparation sharing properties of both solids and liquids: Semisolid

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