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Table of Content

    22 February 2017, Volume 47 Issue 2 Previous Issue    Next Issue
    Basic research
    Phase diagram and rheological behaviors of 14-3(OH)-14(2Cl)/Brij-30 blend aqueous solution
    YAO Mei-huan, WEI Xi-lian
    2017, 47 (2):  61-66.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2017.02.001
    Abstract ( 270 )   PDF (1091KB) ( 394 )  
    A ternary phase diagram of a blend system composed of a cationic Gemini surfactant 2-hydroxypropylidene-1,3-bis(myristyldimethylammonium chloride) (herein refers to as 14-3(OH)-14(2Cl)),a nonionic surfactant polyoxyethylene lauryl ether (herein refers to as Brij-30) and H2O was worked out by using weighing method at 25 ℃.Several different phase regions in the phase diagram were studied by visual observation with the help of a polarizing microscope.The rheological properties of aqueous solutions of single 14-3(OH)-14(2Cl) and separate aggregations in several phase regions were obtained by steady and dynamic shear rheometry.Based upon the rheological parameters determined,the fluid behavior and structural characteristics in the phase regions were judged and analyzed.Results showed that rheological behavior of viscoelastic wormlike micelles follows Maxwell model with a single stress relaxation time period.
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    Lecture of science and technolog
    Synthesis and application of ionic liquid surfactants (Ⅱ)Synthesis
    WANG Jun, HUI Meng-meng, YANG Xu-zhao, ZOU Wen-yuan, XU Qing-jie
    2017, 47 (2):  67-72.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2017.02.002
    Abstract ( 223 )   PDF (905KB) ( 378 )  
    Methods for synthesis of separate kinds of ionic liquid surfactants (ILSs) were reviewed according to their classification.For synthesis of cationic ILSs,there are three methods,i.e.direct quaternarization,metathetical reaction and ionic exchange reaction.Synthesis of anionic ILSs is accomplished by metathetical reaction in organic solvent or blend of organic solvent and water with traditional anionic surfactants and ionic liquids as starting materials.Amphoteric ILSs are generally synthesized by direct quaternarization.For Gemini and Bola ILSs,the synthesis methods are similar to that for traditional Gemini and Bola surfactants.Adoption of new reaction assisting methods,such as microwave and ultrasonic wave will obviously promote the synthesis of ILSs.
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    Development and applicatio
    Synthesis of a kind of nonionic surfactant with a modified catalyst
    ZHANG Jin-chang, ZHAO Hong-bin, MENG Yan, FU Yang, LIU Zhao-bin, ZHU Jian-min
    2017, 47 (2):  73-76.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2017.02.003
    Abstract ( 337 )   PDF (724KB) ( 404 )  
    A catalyst containing Mg-Al composite with both acidic and basic activities and structure similar to that of hydrotalcite was prepared by co-precipitation method under weak alkaline condition using magnesium nitrate crystal and aluminum nitrate crystal as starting materials.The prepared catalyst,after modified with arachidic acid was tested and characterized by X-ray diffraction (XRD),NH3-temperature programmed desorption (NH3-TPD) and CO2-TPD.Then the modified catalyst was applied in ethoxylation of butyl acetate with a fixed bed reactor.Results showed that the prepared and modified catalyst displays conspicuous enhancement of activity for the conversion.The content of targeted products,ethylene glycol butyl ether acetate 1-EBAC and 2-EBAC is higher as well as their carbon number distribution is narrower.
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    Composition analysis and application performance of denaturant for viscose fiber
    ZHANG Lin-ya
    2017, 47 (2):  77-81.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2017.02.004
    Abstract ( 279 )   PDF (891KB) ( 394 )  
    The composition of denaturant MDF for viscose fiber were analyzed using column chromatography.Its main chemical components were identified as polyethylene glycol,fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether and aliphatic amine polyoxyethylene ether.Then a self-made denaturant for viscose fiber was prepared,and its physical indices were measured and analyzed.Results showed that its wetting power achieves 5.185 s,its surface tension achieves 27.61 mN/m and its volatilization loss is 0.004.The self-made denaturant was applied in the production of viscose fiber,and the viscose fiber produced shows good properties.Its dry and wet fracture strength achieves 3.59 and 2.18 cN/dtex respectively,dry and wet elongation at fracture achieves 14.10% and 14.33% respectively.The fiber wet modulus (×20) achieves 14.60 cN/dtex.
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    Application of sodium polyaspartate in skin care products
    SHEN Cui-yun, LIANG Chao-qun, YU Dan-dan, CAO Hui
    2017, 47 (2):  82-86.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2017.02.005
    Abstract ( 747 )   PDF (745KB) ( 427 )  
    Adopting skin moisture testing instrument and epidermal moisture loss testing instrument,situation with respect to moisture content in human skin as well as epidermal moisture loss after separate use of moisturizing cosmetics containing sodium polyaspartate (PASP) with lower and higher molecular weight as well as different mass fractions were examined.Results showed that PASP with higher molecular weight displays better moisturizing effect on the skin,and its water retention effect is conspicuous.When the content of higher molecular weight PASP in the cosmetics achieves 0.8%,the skin moisture content may increase by more than 0.5%,and its skin moisturizing effect may equivalent to that of hyaluronic acid.Further,in order to examine the elasticity change capacity of PASP,in-vitro water dipping test was conducted adopting skin elasticity testing instrument with pig skin as the substrate.Result indicated that PASP can improve skin elasticity.All the results showed that PASP has good prospects for development in cosmetic industry.
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    In vitro test for examination of anti-senility and anti-inflammatory acne effects of absolute oil from Angelica sinensis (Oliv.) Diels
    WANG Yue, YU Hai-yuan, SHI Yan-qin, PAN Xian-hua, LU Yan-hua, CAO Ping
    2017, 47 (2):  87-89.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2017.02.006
    Abstract ( 333 )   PDF (855KB) ( 376 )  
    Via a model of human dermal fibroblasts-adult (HDF-a),effects of Angelica sinensis absolute oil (ASO) on the secretion of collagen type Ⅰ (Col-Ⅰ) by the HDF-a cells were examined.Results showed that when the ASO is at its maximum safety mass concentration for the HDF-a cells 25 mg/L,the secretion of Col-Ⅰ in HDF-a cells can be effectively increased by 33.5%.In addition,an inflammatory acne model was established by stimulating human acute mononuclear cells THP-1 cells with Propionibacterium acnes (P.acnes).Results showed that when ASO is at its maximum safety mass concentration for the THP-1 cells 12.5 mg/L,the ASO can inhibit the release of inflammatory cytokines IL-1β from P.acnes treated THP-1 cells by 94.51%.When the mass concentration is halved to 6.25 mg/L,the ASO still can significantly inhibit IL-1β secretion by 64.34%.Hence,ASO is a natural plant perfume raw material that displays anti-senility and anti-inflammatory acne effects in personal care activities and is expected to be further developed and applied in cosmetics.
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    Establishment and application of non-animal test method for skin sensitization (DPRA)
    WANG Ying, WU Yue
    2017, 47 (2):  90-95.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2017.02.007
    Abstract ( 496 )   PDF (826KB) ( 401 )  
    The identification of the skin sensitization potential is an important component of the safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients.A DPRA (Direct Peptide Reaction Assay) test method according to the specifications of ECVAM (European Centre for the Validation of Alternative Methods) was established through detection of 16 kinds of standard cosmetic ingredient.Results showed that the established DPRA test method meets the specifications of ECVAM and its sensitivity,specificity and accuracy achieves 81.82%,100%,77.8% respectively.Meanwhile,for the laboratory reproducibility,the accuracy for S/NS and 4 Class classifications achieves 100% and 94.7% respectively.Now,the method has been applied in practice and several kinds of material used for formulating cosmetic products have been detected showing skin sensitization potential.
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    Transformation process of silver nanoparticles in underground-water environment
    WANG Chen, YANG Xin-yao, YUAN Xue-mei, YANG Yue-suo
    2017, 47 (2):  96-103.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2017.02.008
    Abstract ( 221 )   PDF (7681KB) ( 89 )  
    In order to explore the transformation behavior of entering of silver nanoparticles (AgNPs),which can be used as a cosmetic additive,into underground-water environment,instrumental analysis including determination of particle size,zeta potential and light absorbance as well as SEM image and EDX spectrum was adopted for investigation of polyvinylpyrrolidone coated AgNPs (PVP-AgNPs) transformation process entering into the underground-water system in an area nearby Shenyang city.The experimental results showed that after the addition of PVP-AgNPs into the underground-water samples,its particle size changes obviously,and zeta potential value locates between -12 and -4 mV;it indicates that the PVP-AgNPs is in a rapid coagulation state.The light absorbance remains unchanged,but the absorption peak decreases continuously,such phenomenon indicates that the concentration of PVP-AgNPs decreases gradually.The SEM images and EDX spectra indicate that addition of PVP-AgNPs into the underground-water will cause coagulation sedimentation and this process can be combined with other ions to form co-precipitation.In addition,in the case of highly dissolved oxygen state and pH<7,PVP-AgNPs will dissolve and release silver ions first,and result in the decrease of PVP-AgNPs settling speed.
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    Review
    Composition and functions of vernix caseosa as well as its potential bionic applications
    ZHENG Yi, MENG Hong, DONG Yin-mao
    2017, 47 (2):  104-108.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2017.02.009
    Abstract ( 777 )   PDF (726KB) ( 576 )  
    Composition and functions of vernix caseosa (VC) were briefed.Status of research work results with respect to VC around the world were reviewed.Functions and action mechanism of the VC,such as skin moisturization,anti-bacterial infection,pH adjustment and epidermal barrier reparation were summarized.Benificial functions for protecting fetus skin from infection and enhancing healthy development of fetus skin were described.The concept of bionic VC from plants and the possibility of them to be applied in the fourth generation of cosmetics—bionic cosmetics were prospected.
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    Chemical compositions of Dendrobium candidum and their development of applications in cosmetics
    LI Qing, XIE Cui-cui, LI Xiang, WANG Xiang-yu
    2017, 47 (2):  109-113.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2017.02.010
    Abstract ( 457 )   PDF (719KB) ( 651 )  
    Several kinds of main chemical constituent in Dendrobium candidum,including polysaccharides,flavonoids,phenols,vitamins,amino acids and so on,were summarized,and efficacies of each component in the aspect of skin-caring and cosmetology were described.Furthermore,current situation of applications of Dendrobium candidum in cosmetics was discussed,and on this basis,its broad application prospect in cosmetic preparation was looked ahead for.
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    Analytical methods and testing
    Determination of formaldehyde in fragrance for household and personal products by ultra-high performance liquid chromatography
    KANG Wei-jun, ZHUANG Wei-qiang, HUANG Jian, MAO Fu-yan, LE Zhi-xin, HU Ping
    2017, 47 (2):  114-117.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2017.02.011
    Abstract ( 344 )   PDF (708KB) ( 338 )  
    An ultra-high performance liquid chromatography (UPLC) method was established for determination of formaldehyde in fragrance for household and personal products.After derived with 2,4-dinitrophenyl hydrazine (DNPH),the formaldehyde in the fragrance was determined by UPLC.The separation was performed on an Agilent ZORBAX Eclipse Plus C18 column (2.1 mm×100 mm,1.8 μm).The mobile phase was consisted of acetonitrile and water (volume ratio of 60∶40) with a flow rate of 0.3 mL/min.The wavelength of UV detector was set at 352 nm.A good linearity of formaldehyde in the range of 0.1~10 mg/L is obtained and the detection limit is about 0.03 mg/L.The spiked recoveries are ranged within 96.3%~104.1%,with relative standard deviations of 0.2%~1.4% (n=3).10 batches of fragrance for household and personal products were determined using the established method and five batches are found containing formaldehyde.However,the content of formaldehyde in the samples is much lower than the limit specified by Hygienic Standard for Cosmetics.
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    Influence of β-arbutin on analysis result of hydroquinone in cosmetics by GC-MS
    JIANG Zhen-juan, CHEN Zhi-tao
    2017, 47 (2):  118-120.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2017.02.012
    Abstract ( 260 )   PDF (684KB) ( 409 )  
    Influence of β-arbutin on the determination of hydroquinone containing in cosmetics by GC-MS was studied.Results showed that β-arbutin is unstable at high temperature,and will decompose and release out hydroquinone under the GC-MS detection conditions.The extent of the thermal decomposition will be obviously enhanced with the increase of temperature at sample inlet of the GC-MS system.Consequently,the detection result of cosmetics containing β-arbutin by GC-MS method will display a higher data for hydroquinone content than the actual result or a false positive test result of hydroquinone.Therefore,GC-MS method is not suitable to be adopted to confirm the positive result for hydroquinone content in cosmetics formulated with β-arbutin which has been assayed by HPLC-DAD.
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