Table of Content

22 March 2017, Volume 47 Issue 3 Previous Issue    Next Issue

Basic research

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Relationship between structure and physicochemical properties of polyoxyethylene sulfobetaines surfactants CHEN Hui, HOU Li-ya, LIU Xue-feng 2017, 47 (3):  121-125.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2017.03.001 Abstract ( 345 )   PDF (800KB) ( 321 )   In order to find the structure-performance relationship of nonionic-zwitterionic hybrid surfactants,N,N-dimethyl-N-dodecyl polyoxyethylene (n) sulfobetaines (C12EOnSBe) with separate polyoxyethylene length (n=1-4) were taken as studying object.Data for critical micelle concentration (cmc) and number of micellar aggregates (Nm) were obtained by drop-volume method and time-resolved fluorescence method.Results showed that,as comparing with the conventional N,N-dimethyl-N-dodecyl sulfobetaine (C12SBe),cmc of C12EOnSBe (n=1-4) is lower.Following the increase of n,cmc of C12EOnSBe (n=1-4) declines;saturated adsorption (Γm) increases;the minimum molecular cross-sectional area (Amin) deceases;and the critical micellar aggregation number (Nm,c) decreases as well. References | Related Articles | Metrics

Lecture of science and technolog

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Synthesis and application of ionic liquid surfactants (Ⅲ)Physicochemical properties LI Ying-bin, ZOU Wen-yuan, YANG Xu-zhao, XU Qing-jie, WANG Jun 2017, 47 (3):  126-132.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2017.03.002 Abstract ( 284 )   PDF (913KB) ( 517 )   The relationship between melting point and structure of ionic liquid surfactants was emphatically introduced.The higher degree of asymmetry of structure of the parent cationic group,the lower melting point of the ionic liquid surfactants.Melting point increases slightly with increase of chain length of the alkyl group.For anionic surfactants,the melting point decreases with the increase of the radius of the cation.The melting point of Gemini and Bola surfactants is higher than that of single-tail surfactants.Under ambient temperature,ionic liquid surfactants are viscous liquid with surface tension of 25-35 mN/m.In general,density of ionic liquid surfactants is about 1 g/cm3 and higher than that of conventional organic liquid chemicals. References | Related Articles | Metrics

Development and applicatio

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Influences of additives on alkyl ethoxy polyglycosides surface performance XING Xiao-ping, LIANG Li, ZHAO Xue-hua, WANG Li-min, JING Feng-wei, XU Rong-kun 2017, 47 (3):  133-136.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2017.03.003 Abstract ( 401 )   PDF (713KB) ( 399 )   Surface performance of alkyl ethoxy polyglycosides (AEG050) and the influences of different additives on them were examined.Results showed that:at 25 ℃,the value of critical micelle concentration (cmc) achieves 44.5 mg/L,and the surface tension at cmc (γcmc) achieves 29.4 mN/m.Besides,it displays rather strong capacity for resistance to hard water.With the increase of concentration of NaCl and/or Na2SO4,their surface activity increases.In monohydric alcohol solution of relatively lower concentration,the surface activity of AEG050 also strengthens,but when the monohydric alcohol concentration is relatively higher,their surface activity declines.There is a certain synergetic effect when AEG050 blends with other surfactants,especially cetyltrimethylammonium bromide (CTAB).In this case,cmc of blend composed of AEG050 and CTAB synergizes as 34.2% lower,while the surface tension γcmc decreases 4.1%. References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Study on preparation of Pickering emulsion stabilized by N-TiO2 nanoparticles and triggering enzymatic reaction ZHAO Mao-jun, BAI Rui-xue, LIU Qi, GUO Ting, WANG Sheng-min, MENG Tao 2017, 47 (3):  137-141.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2017.03.004 Abstract ( 331 )   PDF (4475KB) ( 340 )   W/O type Pickering emulsion stabilized by alkyl silane grafted nitrogen doped titanium dioxide (s-N-TiO2) nanoparticles was used as micro-bioreactor for producing ammonium carbonate from carbamide by catalytic action of urease.Effect of amount of nitrogen doped on formation of the emulsion and the visible-light-responsive performance were studied.The results show that under the irradiation of visible light,surface of the s-N-TiO2 nanoparticles changes from hydrophobic to hydrophilic and coalescence of micro drops of the emulsion as well as the enzymatic reaction in the drops can be triggered. References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Effects of hydrophobic modification of sodium alginate on its electrospinning performance CHEN Xiu-qiong, YAN Hui-qiong, ZHANG Xue-qin, FENG Yu-hong, SHI Zai-feng, LIN Qiang 2017, 47 (3):  142-147.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2017.03.005 Abstract ( 283 )   PDF (3697KB) ( 384 )   With poly(vinyl alcohol) (PVA) as spinning accessory,the electrospinning of hydrophobically modified sodium alginate derivative,alginate caprylamide (ACA),was studied.The colloidal and interfacial performance of ACA were characterized by transmission electron microscope,laser particle size and zeta potential analyzer,surface tensiometer,conductivity meter and rheometer.In addition,the morphology,functional group and crystalline structure of ACA/PVA electrospun nanofiber membranes were measured by scanning electron microscope,Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and poly-crystalline X-ray diffraction.Experimental results showed that the hydrophobic modification upgrades flexibility of sodium alginate (SA) molecules,which can curlily form micelles with the hydrodynamic particle size of 324 nm (PDI=0.38) and zeta potential value of -43.8 mV.Furthermore,the hydrophobic modification and the addition of PVA as the spinning accessory can effectively reduce the surface tension and conductivity of SA solution,enhance chain entanglements and cause the morphology of ACA/PVA electrospun nanofiber membranes more regular and uniform.Spectroscopy analysis results showed that the hydrogen bonding force between ACA and PVA is still the main force to increase chain entanglements and thus realize the electrospinning. References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Bacterium inhibition efficacy of eight kinds of herbal extract in cream type cosmetics OU Zi-cong, HE Qiu-xing, CHEN Pei, FANG Dian-li 2017, 47 (3):  148-152.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2017.03.006 Abstract ( 489 )   PDF (758KB) ( 396 )   Extracts of eight kinds of herb (clove,houttuynia,Polygonum cuspidatum,Coptis chinensis,rhubarb,asarum,licorice and scutellaria) were prepared by cellulase method;and their bacterium inhibition efficacy was studied by disc diffusion method and test tube broth dilution method.Formulation study based upon the bacterium inhibition of the aforesaid preservatives was conducted.With reference of the bacterium inhibition efficacy test method of American Personal Care Product Committee (PCPC),microbial challenge tests for cream formulation was processed.The test results demonstrated that in the eight kinds of herbal extract,the extract of Coptis chinensis shows best efficacy on Staphylococcus aureus,Pseudomonas aeruginosa and Escherichia coli.Its diameter of inhibition zone is (12.4±0.4),(11.4±0.6) and (10.7±0.2) mm respectively,and the minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) is 31.25,31.25 and 15.625 g/L respectively.When the mass fraction of the extract of Coptis chinensis and scutellaria in cream formula is 0.8% and 0.6% respectively,it can inhibit the growth of bacteria and fungi effectively and pass the microbial challenge test meanwhile. References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Synthesis and performance of a skin-whitening agent 4-(1-phenethyl)-1,3-benzenediol XU Yuan-hong, XU Hu-jun 2017, 47 (3):  153-158.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2017.03.007 Abstract ( 282 )   PDF (1504KB) ( 400 )   A skin-whitening agent,4-(1-phenethyl)-1,3-benzenediol was prepared by catalytic synthesis with styrene and resorcinol as starting materials.The catalyst,silicon supported phosphotungstic acid was prepared by pickling process and characterized by IR,XRD and SEM.The synthesized crude product was purified by re-crystallization in xylene as solvent;and structure of the product was identified by MS and 1H NMR.Its skin-whitening activity and antioxidation activity were evaluated by using tyrosinase activity inhibition test,Fe3+ reducing capacity test as well as free radical inhibition test.Results showed that,the IC50 of the tyrosinase inhibition of the product is 0.010 5 g/L,which is much smaller than that of β-arbutin (IC50=0.64 g/L),and it means that the skin-whitening capacity of the product is conspicuously stronger than that of β-arbutin.Similarly,the EC50 of the capacity for Fe3+ reduction is 0.033 g/L;the EC50 of the capacity for hydroxyl free radical removal is 0.06 g/L;the EC50 of the capacity for superoxide free radical removal is 0.32 g/L;results indicates that the capacity for Fe3+ reduction and superoxide free radical removal of the product are stronger than that of β-arbutin. References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Antioxidation activity and application in cosmetics of extract from seed of Sophora japonica WANG Yi-li, GU Fei-yan, LI Chen-chen, YU Ling 2017, 47 (3):  159-163.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2017.03.008 Abstract ( 340 )   PDF (756KB) ( 306 )   In vitro antioxidation and skin-whitening capacity of extract from seed of Sophora japonica as well as moisturizing and skin-whitening efficacy of cosmetic emulsion formulated with the extract were examined.Experimental results show that,extract from seed of Sophora japonica displays certain in vitro antioxidation activity.As comparing with vitamin C,which is used as traditional antioxidation product,its DPPH scavenging rate is better than that of vitamin C;and hydroxyl free radical scavenging rate and reducing capacity are close to that of vitamin C.The tyrosinase inhibition rate of the extract from seed of Sophora japonica with mass concentration of 0.3 g/L achieves 60.33%.Addition of extract from seed of Sophora japonica in cosmetic emulsion can improve its efficacy for moisturizing and skin-whitening.This additive is safe and does not cause skin irritation. References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Investigation of transdermal absorption performance of collagen peptides from jellyfish,bovine bone and cod skin LIU Chu-yi, SUI Hai-song, CHE Shuai, YU Jian-wei, WANG Chang-wei, ZOU Peng-fei 2017, 47 (3):  164-167.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2017.03.009 Abstract ( 346 )   PDF (2082KB) ( 410 )   Six kinds of collagen peptide with different molecular weights (<1 kDa and 1~3 kDa) were prepared separately by enzymolysis method with collagen obtained from jellyfish,bovine bone and cod skin as starting materials.Effects of time,molecular weight and mass concentration on the transdermal absorption performance of the peptides were examined by transdermal diffusion testing apparatus.Permeation processes of FITC-labeled collagen peptides through mouse skin were observed by fluorescence microscopy.Results showed that,when mass concentration of the six kinds of collagen peptide is 10 g/L,the order (from big to small) of capacity of transdermal absorption at 24 h is as follows:<1 kDa cod skin collagen peptide,<1 kDa bovine bone collagen peptide,<1 kDa jellyfish collagen peptide,1~3 kDa jellyfish collagen peptide,1~3 kDa bovine bone collagen peptide and 1~3 kDa cod skin collagen peptide.The transdermal absorption capacity of <1 kDa collagen peptide is better than that of 1~3 kDa collagen peptide.For collagen peptide from bovine bone and jellyfish,the increase of mass concentration will result in enhancing transdermal absorptivity;while for cod skin collagen peptide,the situation is on the contrary.For all the three kinds of source of collagen,the cumulative penetration capacity of collagen peptides per unit area increases with time,while decreases with molecular weight. References | Related Articles | Metrics

Review

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Skin microbiome and research and development of cosmetics WANG Qian, CHEN Yuan-yuan, SONG Li-ya, HE Cong-fen 2017, 47 (3):  168-173.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2017.03.010 Abstract ( 1171 )   PDF (1296KB) ( 1156 )   Composition and functions of skin microbials,factors that affecting microbial colonization as well as mutual relationship between skin microbiome and cosmetics were summarized.Skin microbiome balance is closely related to skin health.From point of view of skin microbiome,a new idea about research and development of preservatives and functional components in cosmetic formula to provide theoretical guidance for research and development of cosmetics was put forward. References | Related Articles | Metrics

Analytical methods and testing

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Analysis of solvent content in fragrance for household and personal care products by capillary gas chromatography LI Shu-heng, GUO Peng, RU Qi, LI Jun, DONG Zhen-shan, ZHANG Jun-song 2017, 47 (3):  174-177.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2017.03.011 Abstract ( 293 )   PDF (708KB) ( 322 )   A method for determination of content of solvents (ethanol,1,2-propanediol and glycerol) in fragrance for household and personal care products by gas chromatography (GC) equipped with capillary column HP-INNOWAX and hydrogen flame ionization detector was established.Results showed that each component displays good separation.The linearity range of ethanol,1,2-propanediol and glycerol achieves 0.1-10,0.08-8 and 0.06-6 g/L respectively.All the correlation coefficients are higher than 0.999.The method is repeatable and reproducible with RSD less than 1%.Detection limit achieves 0.28-3.35 g/L.All average recoveries under three spiking levels (high,middle and low) range from 96.1% to 103.0% (RSD=0.33%-1.33%,n=5).The method was simple and accurate,which may be used for the determination of the solvent in fragrance for household and personal care products. References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Simultaneous determination of preservative bactericide and sun screener in cosmetics by HPLC ZHU Jiang, ZHANG Peng, ZHOU Yuan-yuan, ZOU Yong-ping, LIU He-bei, ZHANG Lin 2017, 47 (3):  178-180.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2017.03.012 Abstract ( 256 )   PDF (699KB) ( 335 )   A high performance liquid chromatography method to simultaneously detect preservative,sun screener and bactericide in cosmetics was established.The sample was extracted by mobile phase solution composed of V(methanol)∶V(tetrahydrofuran)∶V(water)=14∶43∶43 and separated with above mobility by XDB-C18 column.They can be detected at wavelength of 254,281 and 311 nm at different time periods.The method shows good linear relationship in their respective mass concentration range.Recovery,precision and detection limit of the method can meet their practical testing requirements. References | Related Articles | Metrics