从细胞自清洁到皮肤健康化：自噬在化妆品中的机制与应用

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2026.02.014

Abstract

Abstract:

Autophagy, a core cellular mechanism for clearing damaged components, has emerged as a focal topic in skin health and cosmetic development in recent years. This review outlines the cell-type-specific regulatory networks of autophagy in keratinocytes, melanocytes, fibroblasts, and sebocytes, highlighting its pivotal roles in epidermal barrier repair, skin lightening, anti-aging, and sebum regulation. We further elucidate the underlying mechanisms by which autophagy sustains cellular homeostasis: scavenging oxidative damage, degrading melanosomes, and modulating lipid metabolism. Additionally, we summarize the evidence supporting autophagy-targeting effects of cosmetic ingredients（e.g., niacinamide, resveratrol, tranexamic acid）and address key application challenges, particularly the standardization of autophagy detection assays. Future studies should prioritize investigating the dose-response effects and interindividual variability of autophagy modulation, alongside mechanism validation and clinical translation, to provide foundational theoretical support for advancing cosmetics from “superficial care” to “cellular-level repair”.

Key words: autophagy, keratinocytes, melanocytes, fibroblasts, sebocytes

CLC Number:

TQ658

Wenrong Zhang, Lifeng Tang, Yan Jia. From cellular self-cleaning to skin health: Mechanisms and applications of autophagy in cosmetics[J].China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2026, 56(2): 252-259.

Figures/Tables 2

References 42

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原料名称	作用机制	化妆品应用
N-乙酰神经氨酸	通过自噬抑制酪氨酸酶活性，抑制黑色素生成^[36]	美白、修护
紫檀芪	通过p53蛋白负调控mTOR，启动自噬以修复或清除受损DNA^[37]	抗光老化、抗炎、美白
白藜芦醇	通过AMPK信号通路激活自噬作用，从而缓解UVA诱导的光老化^[38]	抗氧化、抗糖化、抗光老化、抗炎、美白
姜黄素、四氢姜黄素	通过细胞自噬机制，起到抗感染、抗癌、抗衰老、抗氧化应激和神经保护等作用^[39]	修护、抗糖化、抗氧化
烟酰胺	在pH 3.8环境下，烟酰胺显著上调自噬关键基因ATG5的表达，促进自噬体形成，而pH 5.8时效果减弱^[40]	美白、抗衰
传明酸	通过激活自噬系统来抑制黑素的生成^[41]	美白、抗炎褪红
熊果酸	通过激活自噬，增加黑色素细胞中的黑色素体降解来抑制皮肤色素沉着^[42]	美白，修护，抗糖化

From cellular self-cleaning to skin health: Mechanisms and applications of autophagy in cosmetics

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