化妆品活性成分通过细胞自噬发挥护肤功效的研究进展

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.06.015

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

自噬作为一种细胞稳态维持机制，可清除受损或多余的蛋白质和细胞器。一些化妆品活性成分可通过调节自噬，清除细胞中的废物和调节相关通路与细胞功能，从而发挥修复细胞损伤、减缓非酶糖基化进程、修护皮肤屏障损伤，减少黑色素生成与皮脂分泌等作用，在化妆品开发应用中存在巨大的前景。文章综述了自噬在抗衰老、修护皮肤屏障、美白与控油功效方面发挥的作用及其分子机制，归纳了调节自噬改善皮肤状态的化妆品活性成分，最后对其在化妆品行业中的发展前景和开发方向进行了展望。

关键词: 自噬, 化妆品, 活性成分, 皮肤屏障

Abstract:

Autophagy, as a cellular homeostasis maintenance mechanism, removes damaged or excess proteins and organelles within the cell. Some cosmetic active ingredients can remove cellular wastes, and regulate the related pathways and cellular functions through autophagy, which play an important role on repairing cellular damage, slowing down the process of non-enzymatic glycosylation, strengthening skin barrier, and inhibiting the melanogenesis and sebum secretion. It has a great prospect in the development and application of cosmetic products. Therefore, this paper reviews the role of autophagy and its molecular mechanism in anti-aging, skin barrier repair, skin whitening and oil control efficacies, summarizes the cosmetic active ingredients that regulate autophagy to improve the skin condition, and finally looks forward to the prospects and development direction of autophagy related research in the cosmetic industry.

Key words: autophagy, cosmetic, active ingredients, skin barrier

中图分类号:

TQ658

吴凡, 张嘉琪, 秦毅, 王俊, 吴宗翰, 盘瑶. 化妆品活性成分通过细胞自噬发挥护肤功效的研究进展[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2025, 55(6): 803-810.

Fan Wu, Jiaqi Zhang, Yi Qin, Jun Wang, Zonghan Wu, Yao Pan. Progress of cosmetic active ingredients exerting skincare efficacy through cellular autophagy[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2025, 55(6): 803-810.

图/表 4

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影响细胞自噬的活性成分在化妆品领域中的应用"

活性成分种类		活性成分	作用对象	原理	功能特性	参考文献
多酚类化合物	类黄酮	儿茶素衍生物（EGCG含量最多）	HaCaT细胞、皮脂腺细胞、成纤维细胞	抑制AMPK-mTOR-ULK1信号通路，激活细胞自噬，激活Nrf2通路	抗炎，抗氧化，抑制痤疮丙酸杆菌，减少皮脂分泌，缓解痤疮	[50]
	类黄酮	黄芩苷	成纤维细胞	抑制AMPK-mTOR-ULK1信号通路，激活自噬，下调ROS与氧化DNA加合物	抗氧化，减缓DNA损伤	[21]
	非类黄酮	紫檀芪	B16F10细胞	抑制AMPK-mTOR-ULK1信号通路，激活自噬，影响MITF-CREB-酪氨酸酶途径，降解黑素小体	美白	[35]
		鞣花酸	B16F10细胞	影响PI3K/AKT/mTOR通路和Beclin-1/Bcl-2，激活自噬，影响MITF-CREB-酪氨酸酶途径	美白	[36]
		白藜芦醇	成纤维细胞	抑制AMPK-mTOR-ULK1信号通路，激活自噬，下调ROS，抑制细胞凋亡，恢复正常细胞周期，降低MMPs表达	抗氧化，抗炎，修护皮肤屏障，减少胶原降解	[47]
		丁香树脂酚	HaCaT细胞	影响NF-κB对MMP的调控，抑制MMPs活性	减少胶原降解	[24]
		羟基酪醇	H₂O₂损伤大鼠真皮细胞	下调ROS水平，减少H₂O₂损伤诱导的炎性细胞因子IL-6和TNF-α的释放	抗炎，抗氧化	[25]
多糖		金银花多糖	特应性皮炎小鼠模型	上调p62激活Nrf2通路	抗炎，抗氧化	[26]
多糖		石斛多糖	光老化HaCaT细胞模型小鼠皮肤模型	促进细胞自噬，抗氧化，减少细胞凋亡与DNA损伤	抗氧化，抗炎，缓解DNA损伤	[22]
皂苷类		黄芪甲苷	大鼠真皮成纤维细胞	下调ROS水平，调节NF-κB通路，降低MMPs的表达	抗氧化，减少胶原降解	[20]
有机酸		熊果酸	B16F10细胞	促进黑素小体降解	美白	[37]
		3-O-甘油-2-O-己基抗坏血酸酯	B16F10细胞	激活自噬，影响MITF-CREB- 酪氨酸酶途径	美白（下调MITF基因表达途径）	[38]
		紫草酸	银屑病模型小鼠	增加皮肤水合作用，抑制皮肤红斑与角质形成细胞过度增殖，缓解了皮肤炎症并减少角质化程度	修护皮肤屏障	[51]
醌类化合物		辅酶Q₀	HaCaT细胞、B16F10 细胞	诱导自噬，抑制 CREB-MITF通路与酪氨酸酶表达/活性，并且降解黑素小体	美白	[39]

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