化妆品防晒黑功效评价方法研究

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.02.007

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

建立了一种新型防晒黑功效的化妆品人体功效评价方法。基于皮肤晒黑的光生物学反应机理，通过系统探索皮肤黑化特征及客观测试指标变化趋势，构建了一种紫外诱导-黑化前产品干预的新型防晒黑评价模型。以2倍MED单次紫外照射诱导，照射后即刻起连续9天涂抹测试产品，测试时间点为照射前、第5天、第7天、第10天，以皮肤肤色（ITA°值）和皮肤黑色素值（MI值）为评价指标。通过对比不同部位、不同紫外照射剂量等实验条件的影响，对防晒黑评价方法进行了优化。该方法已成功应用于祛斑美白功效化妆品功效评价，并与我国现有祛斑美白功效评价方法进行对比。结果表明，该方法能有效评估祛斑美白化妆品的防晒黑功效，且具有试验周期短、成本较低等特点。

关键词: 防晒黑, 评价模型, 功效评价, 探索性方法

Abstract:

The stimulation to melanosomes from ultraviolet （UV） irradiation in sunlight plays a crucial role in the formation of skin pigmentation and color spots. The current practice of anti-freckle and skin-whitening efficacy evaluation in our country basically lies in reducing the pigmentation that have been formed, which is unable to assess the influence of cosmetics on the melanin formation. In this study, a new human efficacy evaluation method was established to assess the effectiveness of cosmetics on inhibiting melanin production and blocking melanin transport. Based on the photobiological reaction mechanism of skin tanning, the influences of body regions and UV irradiation doses on skin pigmentation were investigated during the establishment and optimization of the anti-tanning model. The test areas on the skin were induced by single UV irradiation with 2 fold minimal erythema dose （MED）. The test products were applied for 9 consecutive days immediately after UV irradiation. The skin color （shown as individual type angle, ITA°） and melanin index （MI） were recorded on the day 0 （before irradiation）, day 5, day 7, and day 10. This method is successfully applied in the cosmetic anti-freckle and skin-whitening efficacy evaluation. Compared with the existing evaluation methods in China, this method is able to effectively evaluate the anti-tanning efficacy of the anti-freckle and skin-whitening cosmetics with shorter test period and lower cost.

Key words: melanin inhibition, evaluation model, anti-tanning efficacy evaluation, an exploratory approach

中图分类号:

TQ658

李慧怡, 周悦, 吴谦, 杜丽镝, 谢嘉颖, 谭建华. 化妆品防晒黑功效评价方法研究[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2024, 54(2): 168-174.

Huiyi Li, Yue Zhou, Qian Wu, Lidi Du, Jiaying Xie, Jianhua Tan. Evaluation of cosmetics in melanin inhibition efficacy[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(2): 168-174.

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参考文献 7

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[2]	Zhang Ruzhi, Zhu Wenyuan, Xie Fang, et al. Effects of some plant extracts on the pigmentation induced by UVB[J]. Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 2008 (10) : 630-634.
[3]	Wan Miaojian, Lai Wei, Xie Shuxia, et al. Investigate the methods of evaluating the efficacy of whitening-cosmetics on UV induced pigmentation[J]. Chinese Journal of Aesthetic Medicine, 2009, 18 (8) : 1140-1142.
[4]	Zhang Ping, Liu Wei, Xin Xuya, et al. A preliminary study of pigmentation spot on healthy skin induced by artificial UV light[J]. Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 2006 (4) : 211-213.
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测试部位	ITA°值	MED/（J/m²）
背部上侧	37.3±7.3	265.2±66.5
背部下侧	38.1±7.6	327.5±88.3
上臂	45.1±7.6	261.5±71.5
大腿	45.0±9.3	305.7±92.8

测试部位	照射剂量	D0	D10	?MI值
背部上侧	1 MED	113.4±47.7	116.1±48.7	2.77±24.91
	1.5 MED	111.7±48.7	156.3±67.3	44.60±42.42
	2 MED	110.1±9.0	190.5±9.8	80.40±44.83
背部下侧	1 MED	112.3±45.9	109.9±52.4	-2.37±24.67
	1.5 MED	112.2±46.1	140.1±59.9	27.90±37.11
	2 MED	112.0±45.1	177.2±50.0	65.17±35.82
上臂	1 MED	136.6±33.2	138.6±33.2	2.03±24.84
	1.5 MED	133.7±29.7	185.1±47.7	51.40±30.81
	2 MED	133.7±30.7	216.6±62.5	82.93±39.07
大腿	1 MED	140.5±37.9	138.5±37.1	-2.02±21.04
	1.5 MED	138.7±36.6	164.4±49.6	25.70±29.15
	2 MED	137.8±37.7	188.1±48.7	50.30±21.49

测试部位	照射剂量	D0	D3	D5	D7	D10	D14
背部上侧	1 MED	11.4±2.4	12.0±2.8	11.4±3.1	13.2±4.1	13.2±3.3	12.7±2.3
	1.5 MED	11.6±1.6	11.3±2.3	10.8±3.0	12.9±3.8	13.0±3.0	12.1±2.7
	2 MED	11.1±2.6	11.4±2.0	10.9±2.5	12.7±3.9	12.6±3.1	12.1±3.2
背部下侧	1 MED	10.6±2.1	11.7±2.2	11.1±3.2	12.2±2.7	12.3±3.6	10.9±2.3
	1.5 MED	10.9±2.2	10.4±1.9	10.6±3.3	11.6±2.4	12.5±3.4	11.0±2.9
	2 MED	11.0±2.7	11.1±2.4	10.5±3.0	11.0±2.7	12.3±3.0	11.5±2.4
上臂	1 MED	13.1±1.9	13.9±2.7	12.6±2.6	15.9±5.3	14.9±2.9	14.0±2.5
	1.5 MED	12.8±1.6	13.2±2.6	12.4±2.4	15.5±5.0	14.5±3.0	14.0±2.7
	2 MED	13.1±2.6	13.8±3.3	12.6±2.8	15.7±5.3	14.4±3.5	14.2±2.5
大腿	1 MED	12.6±2.5	12.9±2.1	11.7±2.2	14.0±2.1	13.9±2.1	12.9±2.2
	1.5 MED	12.2±1.9	12.4±1.8	11.4±2.3	13.4±2.3	13.6±2.4	13.4±1.9
	2 MED	12.5±2.4	12.7±2.0	11.4±2.4	13.0±2.4	13.5±2.2	12.5±2.1

		D0	D5	D7	D10
MI值	试验产品	102.67±42.53	146.86±59.00*	139.9±50.07*	137.14±51.96*
	阳性对照	103.81±43.37	150.67±44.82*	169.86±49.76*	139.86±50.32*
	阴性对照	102.29±43.15	187.62±51.16	200.43±57.39	189.33±50.16
ITA°值	试验产品	40.21±6.66	33.17±8.80*	30.20±6.49*	29.33±8.23*
	阳性对照	37.22±11.03	33.60±8.37*	30.57±6.43*	29.63±7.90*
	阴性对照	38.03±6.96	25.81±8.69	24.41±8.26	22.80±8.25

	标准方法	本方法
黑化周期	4次低剂量照射+4天黑化期	一次照射
涂抹时间	28天	9天
测试时间点	涂样前（D0）、涂样后第一周（D7）、第二周（D14）、第三周（D21）、第四周（D28）	涂样前（D0）、涂样后第5天（D5）、第7天（D7）、第10天（D10）
总共试验周期	36天	10天
功效评价的机理	对已形成黑斑的减轻	对黑色素的抑制、减少，减缓黑斑的形成；对已形成的黑斑的减轻
美白功效的表达	美白、祛斑	美白、淡斑、防晒黑