化妆品植物原料（IV）——抑制黑色素合成信号通路的植物美白原料的研究与开发

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.07.002

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

人类的皮肤和头发的颜色取决于黑色素的数量、质量和分布。黑色素在保护皮肤免受各种环境的有害影响方面发挥巨大的作用。而黑色素过量合成会导致严重的皮肤问题。因此,研究黑色素生物合成的信号通路调控以及探究相关的经信号通路抑制黑色素合成的植物提取物具有非常重要的意义。本文综述了调控黑色素生物合成的信号通路和调控因子,包括α-MSH诱导的信号通路、PI3K/Akt信号通路、SCF/c-kit介导的MAPK信号通路、Wnt/β-catenin信号通路、NO/cGMP信号通路、以及细胞因子、转录因子PAX3和肝X受体。重点介绍通过调控各种信号通路抑制黑色素合成的植物提取物。这些植物提取物虽然通过不同的信号通路进行调控,但大多下调一种整合上游信号通路和调控下游基因的转录因子MITF的表达,进而降低酪氨酸酶（TYR）的表达,抑制细胞内黑色素的生物合成。

关键词: 植物提取物, 信号通路, 黑色素生物合成, 美白化妆品

Abstract:

Human skin and hair color relies on the quantity, quality, and distribution of melanin. Melanin plays a monumental role in protecting the skin against the harmful effects of various environments. However, an excessive production of melanin causes serious dermatological problems. Hence, it is of great significance to study the regulation of melanogenesis signaling pathway and to explore the related plant extracts that inhibit melanin synthesis through these signaling pathways. This paper reviews the signaling pathways and regulatory factors that control melanin biosynthetic pathway, including α-MSH-induced signaling pathway, PI3K/Akt signaling pathway, SCF/c-kit-mediated MAPK signaling pathway, Wnt/β-catenin signaling pathway, NO-cGMP signaling pathway, and cytokines, transcription factor PAX3 and liver X-receptors. This paper focuses on plant extracts that inhibit melanin synthesis by regulating various signaling pathways. Although these plant extracts regulate different signaling pathways, most of them down-regulate the expression of MITF, a transcription factor that integrates upstream signaling pathways and regulates downstream genes, thereby reducing the expression of tyrosinase （TYR） and inhibiting the biosynthesis of melanin in cells. We hope this paper can provide information for better application of plant extracts in whitening cosmetics.

Key words: plant extracts, skin whitening cosmetics, signaling pathways, melanogenesis

中图分类号:

TQ658

任倩倩,吴华,金建明. 化妆品植物原料（IV）——抑制黑色素合成信号通路的植物美白原料的研究与开发[J]. 日用化学工业, 2021, 51(7): 590-597.

Ren Qianqian,Wu Hua,Jin Jianming. Botanical cosmetic ingredient (IV) Research and development of skin whitening ingredients from plant extracts with melanogenesis signaling pathway inhibiting effect[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2021, 51(7): 590-597.

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抑制剂	来源	抑制机理	参考文献
人参皂苷Rb₁	人参	α-MSH诱导的信号通路	[7]
人参皂苷Rh₄	红参	α-MSH诱导的信号通路	[8, 9]
白花丹素	白花菜属植物	α-MSH诱导的信号通路	[10, 11]
芒果苷	山竹	α-MSH诱导的信号通路	[12]
毛蕊花糖苷	桂花	α-MSH诱导的信号通路	[12]
4-羟基-3-甲氧基肉桂醛	北美红杉属和栎属等	α-MSH诱导的信号通路,cAMP/PKA信号通路	[13]
没药当归烯酮	重齿毛当归	α-MSH诱导的信号通路,cAMP/PKA信号通路	[13, 14]
牡丹花瓣提取物	四川牡丹和丹凤	α-MSH诱导的信号通路,cAMP/PKA信号通路	[15]
石榴提取物	石榴	P38和PKA信号通路	[16]
马松子提取物	马松子	ERK信号通路	[17]
香蕉皮提取物	香蕉	P38信号通路	[18, 19]

抑制剂	来源	抑制机理	参考文献
没食子酸		PI3K/Akt,MEK/ERK和Wnt/β-catenin信号通路	[21]
姜黄素	姜黄	Akt/GSK3β,ERK和p38/MAPK信号通路	[22]
6-姜酚和8-姜酚	生姜	PI3K和PKA/MAPK信号通路	[23, 24]
白藜芦醇		PI3K/AKt和ERK1/2信号通路	[25]
白桦脂酸	山葡萄	PI3K/Akt 和ERK信号通路	[26]
橙皮苷	柑橘类	Akt和ERK1/2信号通路	[27]
楔叶泽兰素	魁蒿	Akt和ERK/P38信号通路	[28]
安石榴苷	石榴和胡芦巴	ERK/Akt信号通路	[29, 30]
1-O-甲基呋喃果糖	五味子	ERK/Akt信号通路	[31]
爪莲华提取物	爪莲华	ERK/Akt信号通路	[32]