二羟基丙酮免晒美黑凝胶的配方设计与功效研究

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.04.009

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

研究了二羟基丙酮美黑凝胶中增稠剂的种类和用量、溶剂配比、二羟基丙酮的含量和制备工艺对配方的影响,通过外观、铺展性等感官评价和稳定性、功效性研究,综合确定较优配方,为二羟基丙酮免晒美黑凝胶的开发提供理论依据。结果表明,二羟基丙酮免晒美黑凝胶的增稠剂宜用2%质量分数的羟乙基纤维素;溶剂以乙醇、丙二醇和丙三醇质量比为10︰5︰3复配;较优工艺为加热溶解增稠剂,冷却后再添加二羟基丙酮;二羟基丙酮的含量为3%~17%时能够呈现类似晒黑的着色。

关键词: 二羟基丙酮, 化妆品, 免晒美黑剂, 皮肤白度测试

Abstract:

The effects of the types and dosage of thickener, the ratio of solvent, the content of dihydroxyacetone and the preparation technology on the formulation design of dihydroxyacetone sunless tanner gel were studied. Through sensory evaluation such as appearance, spreading property, stability and efficacy evaluation, the better formulation was determined synthetically, which laid a theoretical foundation for the development of dihydroxyacetone sunless tanner gel. The results show that 2% hydroxyethyl cellulose should be used as the thickener of dihydroxyacetone tanner gel. The solvent is ethanol, propylene glycol and glycerol with a mass ratio of 10︰5︰3. The better process is heating to dissolve the thickener, then adding dihydroxyacetone after cooling. The color of tanning can be obtained when the content of dihydroxyacetone is 3%~17%.

Key words: dihydroxyacetone, cosmetics, sunless tanner agent, skin lightness test

中图分类号:

TQ658

杨艺,徐建,赵梦恬,曹高. 二羟基丙酮免晒美黑凝胶的配方设计与功效研究[J]. 日用化学工业, 2021, 51(4): 319-323.

YANG Yi,XU Jian,ZHAO Meng-tian,CAO Gao. Formulation design and efficacy study of dihydroxyacetone sunless tanner gel[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2021, 51(4): 319-323.

图/表 10

表 1

表 2

图 1

表 3

表 4

表 5

表 6

图 2

图 3

图 4

参考文献 13

[1]	Burkhart C G, Burkhart C N. Dihydroxyacetone and methods to improve its performance as artificial tanner[J]. The Open Dermatology Journal, 2009,3:42-43.
[2]	Li Yali, Liu Xiaoxu, Zheng Peihua, et al. Research progress of maillard reaction[J]. Food Science and Technology, 2012,37(9) : 82-87.
[3]	Qiu Bingyi, Gao Zhihong. Modern cosmetics science and technology [M]. Beijing: China Light Industry Press, 2016: 1431-1433.
[4]	Li Li, Cao Jin, Zhang Qingsheng. High performance liquid chromatography for the determination of dihydroxyacetone in cosmetics[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2019,45(6) : 354-356.
[5]	General Administration of Quality Supervision, Inspection and Quarantine of the People’s Republic of China． General methods on determination of cosmetics: determination of pH: GB/T 13531.1—2008[S]. Beijing: Standards Press of China, 2008.
[6]	National Development and Reform Commission Skin care gel: QB/T 2874—2007[S]. Beijing: China Light Industry Press, 2007.
[7]	Wang Nan, Wu Jinhao, Li Ang, et al. Evaluation of whitening efficacy of matsutake cosmetics[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2016,46(5) : 279-283.
[8]	Weatherall I L, Coombs B D. Skin color measurements in terms of CIELAB color space values[J]. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 1992,99(4) : 468-473.
[9]	Han Yahong. Crystal clear gel cosmetics[J]. China Cosmetics Review, 1998,3:12.
[10]	Zhou Yanqing, Xiang Zhongqi, He Lu, et al. Construction of coexisting system between sodium alginate gelatinization and rice starch gelatinization[J]. Food Science, 2019,40(4) : 28-33.
[11]	Lu Dongxue, Xu Qianqian, Wang Wenhang. Research progress of sodium alginate gel mechanism and its application in food[J]. Food and Nutrition in China, 2014,20(10) : 43-46.
[12]	Chen Weimin. Alcohol and cosmetics[J]. Liquor Making, 2012,39(1) : 101-103.
[13]	Liu Gangyong, Zheng Gongming, Ge Hong. Getting out of cosmetic misunderstanding[J]. Detergent & Cosmetics, 2012,35(10) :48-50.

组分	w/%
组分	配方1	配方2	配方3	配方4	配方5	配方6
DHA	5.0	5.0	5.0	5.0	5.0	5.0
卡波姆U21	1.0	2.0	—	—	—	—
羟乙基纤维素	—	—	1.0	2.0	—	—
海藻酸钠	—	—	—	—	1.0	2.0
乙醇	18.0	18.0	18.0	18.0	18.0	18.0
K350	0.5	0.5	0.5	0.5	0.5	0.5
PVPK30	1.2	1.2	1.2	1.2	1.2	1.2
EDTA-2Na	0.1	0.1	0.1	0.1	0.1	0.1
三乙醇胺	1.0	2.0	—	—	—	—
去离子水	至100	至100	至100	至100	至100	至100

组别	pH值	耐热性	耐寒性	长期稳定性	外观	铺展性	功效性
配方1	6.04	是	是	21 d变黄	8.1	5.6	6.4
配方2	6.10	是	是	14 d变黄	7.3	7.3	6.0
配方3	4.10	是	是	91 d未变	9.1	3.7	6.6
配方4	3.71	是	是	91 d未变	9.6	5.2	6.7
配方5	4.99	是	是	28 d变黄	5.2	6.1	6.5
配方6	5.14	是	是	28 d变黄	5.3	6.6	6.5

组分	w/%
组分	配方4	配方7	配方8	配方9	配方10	配方11
DHA	5.0	5.0	5.0	5.0	5.0	5.0
羟乙基纤维素	2.0	2.0	2.0	2.0	2.0	2.0
乙醇	18.0	9.0	9.0	6.0	10.0	10.0
丙二醇	—	9.0	—	6.0	3.0	5.0
丙三醇	—	—	9.0	6.0	5.0	3.0
K350	0.5	0.5	0.5	0.5	0.5	0.5
PVPK30	1.2	1.2	1.2	1.2	1.2	1.2
EDTA-2Na	0.1	0.1	0.1	0.1	0.1	0.1
去离子水	至100	至100	至100	至100	至100	至100

组别	pH值	耐热性	耐寒性	长期稳定性（91 d）	外观	铺展性	功效性
配方4	3.71	是	是	未变	9.6	5.2	6.7
配方7	3.70	否	是	未变	8.2	5.3	6.8
配方8	3.75	是	是	未变	8.1	7.1	6.7
配方9	3.71	是	是	未变	7.5	6.0	6.9
配方10	3.74	是	是	未变	9.2	5.1	6.8
配方11	3.75	是	是	未变	9.5	5.1	6.9

操作工艺	pH值	外观	铺展性	功效性
原工艺	3.75	9.5	5.1	6.9
凝胶半成品冷却后加入DHA	3.79	9.7	5.0	7.6
在醇溶液中加入DHA	3.67	9.4	5.2	7.1
凝胶半成品和醇溶液后加入DHA	3.68	9.3	5.2	7.3