葡萄籽发酵液的护肤功效及安全性研究

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.03.006

日用化学工业 ›› 2021, Vol. 51 ›› Issue (3): 200-207.doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.03.006

葡萄籽发酵液的护肤功效及安全性研究

刘平平^1,³(),许丹妮¹,赵丹¹,安全³,王昌涛^1,²,李萌¹()

1.北京工商大学化学与材料工程学院北京市植物资源研究开发重点实验室,北京 100048
2.北京工商大学北京食品营养与人类健康高精尖创新中心,北京 100048
3.云南白药集团股份有限公司,云南昆明 650504

收稿日期:2020-04-06 修回日期:2021-02-21 出版日期:2021-03-22 发布日期:2021-03-23
通讯作者: 李萌
作者简介:刘平平（1995-）,女,土家族,重庆人,硕士,电话：13269175071,E-mail：lpp961279333@126.com。
基金资助:
云南省生物医药重大科技专项(2018ZF005)

Study on the skin care efficacy and safety of the grape-seed fermentation liquid

LIU Ping-ping^1,³(),XU Dan-ni¹,ZHAO Dan¹,AN Quan³,WANG Chang-tao^1,²,LI Meng¹()

1. Key Laboratory of Plant Resources Research and Development, School of Chemistry and Materials Engineering, Beijing Technology and Business University, Beijing 100048, China
2. Beijing Advanced Innovation Center for Food Nutrition and Human Health,Beijing Technology and Business University, Beijing 100048, China
3. Yunnan Baiyao Group Co., Ltd, Kunming, Yunnan 650504, China

Received:2020-04-06 Revised:2021-02-21 Online:2021-03-22 Published:2021-03-23
Contact: Meng LI

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

以葡萄籽为原料,利用红酒酵母对葡萄籽进行发酵得到葡萄籽发酵液,通过实验检测葡萄籽发酵液与水提液中的活性成分,结果显示葡萄籽发酵液中蛋白质（3.13±0.036） g/L与多糖（0.36±0.015） g/L含量显著高于水提液（P<0.05）,说明酵母发酵可显著提升提取液中活性成分的含量;通过检测葡萄籽发酵液与水提液对ABTS ⁺·、DPPH的清除能力探究二者的抗氧化能力,结果显示葡萄籽发酵液对ABTS ⁺·和DPPH自由基的IC₅₀分别为0.322%和1.448%,葡萄籽水提液对ABTS ⁺·和DPPH自由基的IC₅₀分别为0.358%和1.707%,且发酵液与水提液清除自由基的能力之间存在显著性差异（P<0.05）。通过检测葡萄籽发酵液对成纤维细胞、人永生化角质形成细胞的作用评价其潜在护肤功效,利用绒毛膜尿囊膜台盼蓝染色实验,人体皮肤封闭型斑贴实验评价葡萄籽发酵液对眼、皮肤的刺激性,结果显示葡萄籽发酵液具有潜在的延缓衰老、抗炎作用,并对眼、皮肤基本无刺激性。

关键词: 葡萄籽, 发酵, 抗氧化, 护肤, 安全性

Abstract:

Grape-seed fermentation broth was obtained by fermenting grape seeds with red wine yeast. The active ingredients in grape-seed fermentation broth and water extract were analyzed by experiment testing. The results showed that the protein （3.13±0.036） g/L and polysaccharides （0.36±0.015） g/L in grape-seed fermentation broth were significantly more than in the water extract （P<0.05）. It indicated that yeast fermentation could significantly increase the content of active ingredients in the extraction liquid. The effects of grape-seed fermentation liquid and water extract on the scavenging ability of ABTS ⁺·and DPPH were studied to evaluate their antioxidant capacities. It was found that the IC₅₀ of grape-seed fermentation broth to ABTS ⁺· and DPPH free radicals were 0.322% and 1.448%, respectively, and the IC₅₀ of grape-seed water extract to ABTS ⁺·and DPPH free radicals were 0.358% and 1.707%, respectively. Meanwhile, there was significant difference between the abilities of fermentation broth and water extract to scavenge free radicals （P<0.05）. The potential skin care efficacy of grape-seed fermentation liquid was evaluated by investigating the effects on fibroblasts and human immortalized keratinocytes （Hacat）. Chorioallantoic membrane-trypan blue staining and human skin patch test were used to evaluate the irritation of grape-seed fermentation liquid to eyes and skin. It showed that grape-seed fermentation liquid had potential anti-aging and anti-inflammatory effects, and it was basically non-irritating to eyes or skin.

Key words: grape seed, fermentation, antioxidant, skin care, safety

中图分类号:

TQ658

刘平平,许丹妮,赵丹,安全,王昌涛,李萌. 葡萄籽发酵液的护肤功效及安全性研究[J]. 日用化学工业, 2021, 51(3): 200-207.

LIU Ping-ping,XU Dan-ni,ZHAO Dan,AN Quan,WANG Chang-tao,LI Meng. Study on the skin care efficacy and safety of the grape-seed fermentation liquid[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2021, 51(3): 200-207.

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参考文献 18

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基因	方向	引物
ERK1	F	CTA CAC GCA GTT GCA GTA CAT
ERK1	R	CAG CAG GAT CTG GAT CTC CC
IL-6	F	GAC AGC CAC TCA CCT CTT CA
IL-6	R	TTC ACC AGG CAA GTC TCC TC
IL-8	F	TCA GAG ACA GCA GAG CAC AC
IL-8	R	GGC AAA ACT GCA CCT TCA CA
TNF-α	F	AGG ACA GAA GAG CAA CTG AGA TCG
TNF-α	R	TTG GGA TGC TGA CAC TC CAT GCA

试剂	体积/μL
2×SuperReal PreMix Plus	10.0
F	0.3
R	0.3
50×ROX Reference Dye	0.25
cDNA	1.0
RNase-free ddH₂O	8.15

D值/nmol	刺激性分级
0≤D值≤7	无/轻度刺激
7<D值≤12	中度刺激
D值>12	重度/极重度刺激

反应程度	评分等级	皮肤反应
—	0	阴性反应
±	1	可疑反应;仅有微弱红斑
+	2	弱阳性反应（红斑反应）;红斑、浸润、水肿、可有丘疹
+ +	3	强阳性反应（疱疹反应）;红斑、浸润、水肿、丘疹、疱疹;反应可超出受试区
+ + +	4	极强阳性反应（融合性疱疹反应）;明显红斑、严重浸润、水肿、融合性疱疹;反应超出受试区

样品	ρ（活性成分）/（g·L^-1）
样品	原花青素	黄酮	多糖	蛋白质
水提液	0.41±0.012	0.94±0.02	0.21±0.023	2.59±0.027
发酵液	0.43±0.015	0.86±0.031	0.36±0.015^*	3.13±0.036^*

葡萄籽发酵液的护肤功效及安全性研究

Study on the skin care efficacy and safety of the grape-seed fermentation liquid

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摘要/Abstract

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图/表 15

参考文献 18

相关文章 15

Metrics

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样品	D值/nmol	刺激性分级
生理盐水	0	无/轻度刺激
1% SDS	20.808	重度/极重度刺激
葡萄籽发酵液	2.394	无/轻度刺激

样品名称	反应等级	反应人数/例
样品名称	反应等级	30 min后	24 h后	48 h后
空白对照组	0	30	30	30
	1	—	—	—
	2	—	—	—
	3	—	—	—
	4	—	—	—
葡萄籽发酵液	0	26	27	29
	1	3	3	1
	2	1	—	—
	3	—	—	—
	4	—	—	—

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