茴香酸在护肤品中溶解工艺的研究及其应用

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.10.010

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

以控制变量法研究了茴香酸在护肤品中的溶解工艺及其应用。考察了L-精氨酸、1,2-己二醇、去离子水用量及溶解温度对茴香酸溶解工艺的影响。结果表明,茴香酸可完全溶解的质量配比范围为m（茴香酸）:m（L-精氨酸）:m（1,2-己二醇）:m（去离子水）=1:（0~1.5）:（5~20）:（0.5~100）;其较佳质量配比范围为1:（0.8~1.5）:（5~20）:（0.5~2）,此时所得溶液相对稳定。茴香酸较佳溶解温度为69~75 ℃。在L-精氨酸为0~0.2的质量配比条件下,分别配制了一款面霜和乳液类产品。两款产品均通过-15、25、40和48 ℃温度下的12周稳定性测试。显微镜测试表明,不同温度下,12周的面霜和乳液在水溶液中形成的乳液大小及其分布都较为均匀,长期稳定性较好。微生物挑战结果表明,面霜产品可通过1级防腐挑战,乳液产品可通过3级防腐挑战。

关键词: 茴香酸, 溶解性, 工艺, 防腐挑战

Abstract:

The antibacterial effect of anisic acid gradually highlights its advantages in non-preservative skin care products. However, its insoluble property in water greatly limits its use in cosmetics. Therefore, in the production process of cosmetics, the problem of realizing and accelerating the dissolution of anisic acid needs to be further solved. In this paper, the dissolution process and application of anisic acid in cosmetic were studied by the control variable method. The effects of the dosage of L-arginine, 1,2-hexanediol, and deionized water, their dissolution time and temperature on the dissolution process of anisic acid were investigated. The better quality ratios among the influencing factors were screened out. The anisic acid was applied as a preservative to a face cream and a lotion, and their stability and microbial challenges were tracked. The results show that the mass ratio range of anisic acid that can be completely dissolved is anisic acid:L-arginine:1,2-hexanediol:deionized water=1:（0-1.5）:（5-20）:（0.5-100）; and the optimal quality ratio range is 1:（0.8-1.5）:（5-20）:（0.5-2）, with the obtained solution relatively stable. The optimal dissolution temperature of anisic acid is 69-75 ℃. Under the condition of the mass ratio of L-arginine of 0~0.2, a face cream and a lotion were prepared respectively. Both products have passed 12-week stability test at -15, 25, 40 and 48 ℃. Microscopic images show that the size and distribution of the emulsion formed in the aqueous solution of the face cream and lotion cream at different temperatures for 12 weeks are uniform and have good long-term stability. The results of the microbial challenge test show that the cream can pass the level 1 preservative challenge, and the lotion can pass the level 3.

Key words: anisic acid, dissolution, process, preservative challenge

中图分类号:

TQ658

赵雪华. 茴香酸在护肤品中溶解工艺的研究及其应用[J]. 日用化学工业, 2021, 51(10): 990-996.

Zhao Xuehua. Study on the dissolution process of anisic acid and its application in cosmetic[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2021, 51(10): 990-996.

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参考文献 11

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防腐等级	第0天菌种Lg值		细菌浓度Lg差值
	第0天菌种Lg值		第7天		第14天		第21天		第28天
	细菌	真菌	细菌	真菌	细菌	真菌	细菌	真菌	细菌	真菌
1级	6	5	≥4	≥3	≥4	≥3	≥4	≥3	≥4	≥3
2级			≥3	≥2	≥4	≥3	≥3	≥2	≥4	≥3
3级			≥2	≥1	≥3	≥2	/	/	≥4	≥3
4级			≥2	≥1	≥2	≥1	≥3	≥1	≥3	≥2

L-精氨酸质量配比	最终温度/℃	溶解时间/s	茴香酸溶解性
0	85	1 362	不完全溶解
0.2	85	1 362	不完全溶解
0.4	85	1 362	不完全溶解
0.6	85	1 362	不完全溶解
0.8	85	1 362	不完全溶解
1	85	1 214	不完全溶解
1.5	85	957	不完全溶解

L-精氨酸质量配比	最终温度/℃	溶解时间/s	茴香酸溶解性	24 h内状态变化
0	81	1 406	完全溶解	随温度下降,逐渐析出
0.2	76.6	843	完全溶解	随温度下降,逐渐析出
0.4	74.7	739	完全溶解	随温度下降,逐渐析出
0.6	74.6	538	完全溶解	随温度下降,逐渐析出
0.8	72.1	428	完全溶解	温度下降至30 ℃时,底部少许析出
1	69.1	392	完全溶解	隔天有1-2个结晶析出
1.5	67.2	238	完全溶解	无析出

1,2-己二醇质量配比	最终温度/℃	溶解时间/s	茴香酸溶解性	24 h内状态变化
0	79.0	1 114	不完全溶解	茴香酸刚加入时,漂浮在溶液表面;随温度下降,逐渐析出
1	78.9	923	完全溶解	茴香酸刚加入时,分散在溶液中;当天少许析出
2.5	78.5	767	完全溶解	茴香酸刚加入时,分散在溶液中;当天少许析出
5	78.3	620	完全溶解	茴香酸刚加入时,沉在溶液底部;隔天少许析出
10	69.1	392	完全溶解	隔天有1~2个结晶析出
20	68.1	231	完全溶解	无析出

去离子水质量配比	最终温度/℃	溶解时间/s	茴香酸溶解性	24 h内状态变化
0	85	1 800	不完全溶解	已溶解的不再析出
0.5	73.5	1 682	完全溶解	澄清透明
2	72.8	572	完全溶解	澄清透明
10	71.3	147	完全溶解	澄清透明
100	69.1	392	完全溶解	隔天有1~2个结晶析出