中国女性皮肤暗黄影响因素研究进展

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.07.009

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

皮肤暗黄是当今困扰中国女性的皮肤问题之一,也是化妆品和食品行业关注的研发热点之一。通过检索国内外文献,分析了影响皮肤暗黄的因素,包括黑色素的形成与分布、细胞因子对黑色素细胞的影响、血液微循环、氧化蛋白质导致皮肤暗黄的发生机理,并提出皮肤暗黄的解决途径,对美白产品研发具有一定的指导意义。

关键词: 皮肤暗黄, 美白, 黑色素, 细胞因子, 血液微循环, 氧化蛋白质

Abstract:

Dark yellow skin is one of the skin problems that Chinese women concern today and it is also one of the research and development hotspots in the cosmetics and food industry. By searching domestic and foreign literatures, this article reviews the factors that affect the skin darkness and yellowness, including the formation and distribution of melanin, the influence of cytokines on melanocytes, and the mechanism of skin dark yellowness caused by blood microcirculation and oxidized protein. It provides guidance for the research and development of whitening products.

Key words: dark yellow skin, whitening, melanin, cytokines, blood microcirculation, oxidized protein

中图分类号:

TQ658

朱文驿,查沛娜,邱显荣,孟宏. 中国女性皮肤暗黄影响因素研究进展[J]. 日用化学工业, 2020, 50(7): 481-487.

ZHU Wen-yi,ZHA Pei-na,QIU Xian-rong,MENG Hong. The review of influencing factors of dark yellow skin in Chinese women[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2020, 50(7): 481-487.

图/表 3

图 1

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参考文献 49

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黑色素细胞特异性酶	作用
TYR	催化酪氨酸转化为多巴,多巴氧化为多巴醌;保护黑色素细胞免受ROS的侵害
TYRP1	催化酪氨酸转化为多巴;稳定和维持TYR蛋白水平^[14];催化DHICA转化为真黑色素;影响黑色素小体的成熟和黑色素细胞的增殖和凋亡^[15]
DCT	催化多巴色素转化为DHICA;过度表达降低自由基水平和增加谷胱甘肽的表达,降低WM35细胞对氧化应激的敏感性^[17]

细胞因子	受体	通路	作用
SLF	c-Kit	MAPK	促进黑色素细胞增殖,黑色素合成,树突形成^[1]
SCF	c-Kit	MAPK	促进黑色素细胞增殖,黑色素合成,树突形成^[1]
HGF	c-Met	MAPK	上调黑色素细胞增殖所需蛋白^[1]
bFGF	FGFR-1/2	MAPK	促进黑色素细胞增殖,黑色素合成,树突形成^[1]
LIF	Gp130LIFRα	MAPK	促进黑色素细胞增殖或分化^[1]
GM-CSF	GMCSFR	MAPK	上调黑色素细胞增殖所需蛋白,上调TYR、TYRP1、DCT,促进黑色素细胞增殖^[1]
ET-1	ETBR	PKC	促进TYR mRNA、蛋白质和酶活,促进黑色素细胞增殖/树突形成^[1]
DAG	/	PKC	激活酪氨酸酶,从而刺激黑色素生成^[33]
α-MSH	MC1-R	PKA	上调TYR1、TYRP1、DCT,促进真黑色素合成,促进黑色素细胞增殖^[1]
ACTH	MC1-R	PKA	上调TYR1、TYRP1、DCT,促进真黑色素合成,促进黑色素细胞增殖/树突形成^[1]
PGs	EP1/EP3/FP	PLC	促进黑色素细胞树突形成/促进黑色素小体转运^[1]
NGF	/	/	促进黑色素合成,树突形成^[1]
NO	/	PKG	促进黑色素合成^[34]
DKK1	/	/	抑制MITF和黑色素生成蛋白的表达,损害角蛋白细胞吸收黑色素的能力^[1]
TGFβ1	TBRI/TBRII	Smads	通过下调MITF和PAX3,抑制黑色素细胞分化和黑色素生成^[35]
多效蛋白	RPTPβ/ζ	ALK	抑制酪氨酸酶和MITF蛋白的表达^[36]