头发光损伤评价方法

doi:10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2017.05.010

摘要/Abstract

摘要： 对头发光损伤及表现进行了简单介绍,对评价头发光损伤形貌变化以及化学物质变化的方法进行了详细综述,重点介绍了多光谱成像技术及其在头发光损伤评价中的应用。

Abstract: Phenomenon of human hair photodamage was briefed.The methods for evaluating the changes in morphology and chemical materials of human hair were reviewed in detail.Finally,the multi-spectral imaging technology and its application in the evaluation of hair photodamage were introduced emphatically.

Key words: hair photodamage, evaluation methods, multi-spectral imaging technology

中图分类号:

TQ658.3

曹月, 瞿昊. 头发光损伤评价方法[J]. 日用化学工业, 2017, 47(5): 286-291.

CAO Yue, QU Hao. A review of the evaluation methods for hair photodamage[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2017, 47(5): 286-291.

参考文献

[1] Barnicot N A,Birbeck M S C.The electron microscopy of human melanocytes and melanin granules [J].The Biology of Hair Growth,1958:239-253.
[2] Van der Mei I A F,Blizzard L,Stankovich J,et al.Misclassification due to body hair and seasonal variation on melanin density estimates for skin type using spectrophotometry [J].Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B:Biology,2002,68(1):45-52.
[3] Draelos Z D.The biology of hair care [J].Dermatologic Clinics,2000,18(4):651-658.
[4] Kintz P,Cirimele V,Jamey C,et al.Testing for GHB in hair by GC/MS/MS after a single exposure:application to document sexual assault [J].Journal of Forensic Science,2003,48(1):1-6.
[5] Wennig R.Potential problems with the interpretation of hair analysis results [J].Forensic Science International,2000,107(1):5-12.
[6] Nogueira A C,Nakano A K,Joekes I.Impairment of hair mechanical properties by sun exposure and bleaching treatments [J].Journal of Cosmetic Science,2004,55:533-537.
[7] Fernández E,Barba C,Alonso C,et al.Photodamage determination of human hair [J].Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B:Biology,2012,106:101-106.
[8] 郑优优,范卫新.日光对头发的损伤[J].临床皮肤科杂志,2012,41(11):705-707.
[9] Signori V.Review of the current understanding of the effect of ultraviolet and visible radiation on hair structure and options for photoprotection [J].Journal of Cosmetic Science,2003,55(1):95-113.
[10] Herrling T,Jung K,Fuchs J.The role of melanin as protector against free radicals in skin and its role as free radical indicator in hair [J].Spectrochimica Acta Part A:Molecular and Biomolecular Spectroscopy,2008,69(5):1429-1435.
[11] Nogueira A C S,Joekes I.Hair color changes and protein damage caused by ultraviolet radiation [J].Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B:Biology,2004,74(2):109-117.
[12] Ruetsch S B,Kamath Y,Weigmann H D.Photodegradation of human hair:an SEM study [J].Journal of Cosmetic Science,2000,51(2):103-126.
[13] 於勤,郑赛华,林惠芬.头发拉伸损伤模型的建立与护发成分修护效果的研究[J].日用化学工业,2001,31(6):18-19.
[14] 郑赛华,於勤,林惠芬.头发烫发的损伤与修护的研究[J].日用化学工业,2001,31(4):19-20.
[15] Wagner R C C,Joekes I.Hair protein removal by sodium dodecyl sulfate [J].Colloids and Surfaces B:Biointerfaces,2005,41(1):7-14.
[16] Richena M,Rezende C A.Effect of photodamage on the outermost cuticle layer of human hair [J].Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B:Biology,2015,153:296-304.
[17] Ruetsch S B,Kamath Y,Weigmann H D.Photodegradation of human hair:a microscopy study [J].Comprehensive Series in Photosciences,2001(3):175-205.
[18] Richena M,Rezende C A.Morphological degradation of human hair cuticle due to simulated sunlight irradiation and washing [J].Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B:Biology,2016,161:430-440.
[19] Richena M,Silveira M,Rezende C A,et al.Yellowing and bleaching of grey hair caused by photo and thermal degradation [J].Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B:Biology,2014,138:172-181.
[20] Scanavez C,Joekes I,Zahn H.Extractable substances from human hair:a discussion about the origin of the holes [J].Colloids and Surfaces B:Biointerfaces,2004,39(1):39-43.
[21] Ji J H,Park T S,Lee H J,et al.The ethnic differences of the damage of hair and integral hair lipid after ultra violet radiation [J].Annals of Dermatology,2013,25(1):54-60.
[22] Wolfram L J.Human hair:a unique physicochemical composite [J].Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology,2003,48(6):106-114.
[23] Parbhu A N,Bryson W G,Lal R.Disulfide bonds in the outer layer of keratin fibers confer higher mechanical rigidity:correlative nano-indentation and elasticity measurement with an AFM [J].Biochemistry,1999,38(36):11755-11761.
[24] 杨建中.头发的损伤与护发[J].中国化妆品(专业版),2002 (6):62-64.
[25] 安原原,吴金丹,王际平.冷烫和染色损伤对头发手感的影响机理研究[J].浙江理工大学学报,2015,33(5):649-654.
[26] Sionkowska A,Kaczmarek B,Gnatowska M.The influence of Polyquaternium-7 on the hair properties [J].Copernican Letters,2014(5):27-30.
[27] Monteiro V F,Pinheiro A S,Leite E R,et al.UV radiation:aggressive agent to the hair —AFM,a new methodology of evaluation [J].Journal of Cosmetic Science,2003,54:271-281.
[28] 唐颖,Smith G J.中国人头发纤维在 UVA 紫外光老化中的光谱学研究[J].光谱学与光谱分析,2016,36(6):1783-1788.
[29] 李炳钟,冉国侠,陈飞,等.NBD-Cl 与头发表面半胱氨酸残基的相互作用研究[J].香料香精化妆品,2010(1):33-37.
[30] Dutta A,Sarkar A.Structural distinction between black and grey human hair:a FTIR investigation [C]//Proceeding of international conference on recent trends in applied physics and material science:ram 2013.New York:AIP publishing,2013:1250-1251.
[31] Kim K S,Shin M K,Park H K.Effects of ultraviolet B radiation on physicochemical properties of human hair shaft [J].Microscopy Research and Technique,2012,75(7):949-954.
[32] Fedorkova M V,Brandt N N,Chikishev A Y,et al.Photoinduced formation of thiols in human hair [J].Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B:Biology,2016,164:43-48.
[33] Williams A C,Edwards H G M,Barry B W.Raman spectra of human keratotic biopolymers:skin,callus,hair and nail [J].Journal of Raman Spectroscopy,1994,25(1):95-98.
[34] Kuzuhara A.Analysis of structural changes in bleached keratin fibers (black and white human hair) using Raman spectroscopy [J].Biopolymers,2006,81(6):506-514.
[35] Pande C M,Albrecht L,Yang B.Hair photoprotection by dyes [J].Journal of Cosmetic Science,2001,52(6):377-390.
[36] Kuzuhara A,Fujiwara N,Hori T.Analysis of internal structure changes in black human hair keratin fibers with aging using Raman spectro-scopy [J].Biopolymers,2007,87(2):134-140.
[37] Qu X,Kirschenbaum L J,Borish E T.Hydroxyterephthalate as a fluorescent probe for hydroxyl radicals:application to hair melanin [J].Photochemistry and Photobiology,2000,71(3):307-313.
[38] Kirschenbaum L J,Qu X,Borish E T.Oxygen radicals from photo-irradiated human hair:An ESR and fluorescence study [J].Journal of Cosmetic Science,2000,51(3):169-182.
[39] Vsevolodov E B,Ito S,Wakamatsu K,et al.Comparative analysis of hair melanins by chemical and electron spin resonance methods [J].Pigment Cell Research,1991,4(1):30-34.
[40] Nogueira A C S,Richena M,Dicelio L E,et al.Photo yellowing of human hair [J].Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B:Biology,2007,88(2):119-125.
[41] Fedorkova M V,Smolina N V,Mikhalchik E V,et al.Effects of ultra violet radiation on the soluble proteins of human hair [J].Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B:Biology,2014,140:390-395.
[42] 王心灵,吴焱,孙培冬,等.4-甲氧基肉桂酰基壳聚糖季铵盐的制备及防晒性能研究[J].日用化学工业,2011,41(5):347-351.
[43] Jachowicz J,McMullen R L.Tryptophan fluorescence in hair:examination of contributing factors [J].Journal of Cosmetic Science,2011,62(3):291.
[44] 曹蕊,曹玉华.荧光法研究头发光损伤[J].食品与生物技术学报,2008,27(7):30-33.
[45] Liu C,Liu W,Lu X,et al.Nondestructive determination of transgenic Bacillus thuringiensis rice seeds (Oryza sativa L.) using multispectral imaging and chemometric methods [J].Food Chemistry,2014,153:87-93.
[46] Cao Y,Qu H,Xiong C,et al.A novel method for non-destructive determination of hair photo-induced damage based on multispectral imaging technology [J].Scientific Reports,2017(7):1-8.
[47] Ma F,Wang J,Liu C,et al.Discrimination of kernel quality charac-teristics for sunflower seeds based on multispectral imaging approach [J].Food Analytical Methods,2015,8(7):1629-1636.
[48] Løkke M M,Seefeldt H F,Skov T,et al.Color and textural quality of packaged wild rocket measured by multispectral imaging [J].Postharvest Biology and Technology,2013,75:86-95.
[49] Li X,Hu J,Chen L,et al.The adsorption behaviour and photo-protection effect of UV filter absorbed on the surface of human hair [J].International Journal of Cosmetic Science,2016,38(1):52-59.
[50] Dario M F,Baby A R,Velasco M V R.Effects of solar radiation on hair and photoprotection [J].Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B:Biology,2015,153:240-246.