植物外泌体样纳米囊泡护肤功效作用机制和应用现状

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2026.09.013

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

植物外泌体样纳米囊泡（PDENs）是一类直径介于30~200 nm的纳米级脂质双层囊泡，其内部富含蛋白质、核酸、代谢物及脂质等活性物质，近年来在医学、药学及皮肤健康等领域的应用广受关注。本文围绕4个核心方面展开综述：PDENs与动物外泌体在组分构成及其生物学形成机制上的异同；PDENs在护肤领域的具体功效及作用机理；国内外关于PDENs原料的监管政策对比；以及PDENs在化妆品产品中的实际应用现状。最后，分析并探讨PDENs在实际应用中面临的关键问题，以期为其后续的产业化应用提供理论支撑与解决方案。

关键词: 植物外泌体样纳米囊泡, 护肤功效, 作用机理, 监管政策

Abstract:

Plant-derived exosome-like nanovesicles （PDENs） are nanoscale lipid bilayer vesicles ranging from 30 to 200 nm in diameter. Rich in bioactive substances such as proteins, nucleic acids, secondary metabolites, and lipids, PDENs have recently attracted significant interest for their potential in medicine, pharmaceuticals, and skin health. This review centers on four key areas: The compositional profiles and biogenesis mechanisms of PDENs in comparison to animal-derived exosomes; their specific efficacies and modes of action in skincare; a cross-national comparison of regulatory policies pertinent to PDENs as cosmetic ingredients; and the current status of their application in commercial cosmetic products. Finally, it analyzes the predominant challenges hindering the practical use of PDENs, with the objective of offering theoretical insights and potential pathways to facilitate their large-scale industrial application.

Key words: plant-derived exosome-like nanovesicles, skincare efficacy, mechanism of action, regulatory policies

中图分类号:

TQ658

李宇奇, 杜普洋, 郭雨佳, 赵欢欢, 马道品, 成志伟. 植物外泌体样纳米囊泡护肤功效作用机制和应用现状[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2026, 56(9): 1242-1250.

Yuqi Li, Puyang Du, Yujia Guo, Huanhuan Zhao, Daopin Ma, Zhiwei Cheng. Plant-derived exosome-like nanovesicles in skincare: Mechanisms and applications[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2026, 56(9): 1242-1250.

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组分类别	PDENs	ADEs	参考文献
脂质	仅含植物固醇，无胆固醇；含植物特有的半乳糖脂。磷脂酸（PA）占比高，鞘磷脂含量极低	胆固醇为核心固醇，鞘磷脂含量高，PA占比少。磷脂酰胆碱、鞘磷脂为主要磷脂	[20,21]
蛋白质	含植物特有序列蛋白（如水通道蛋白PIP2、突触融合蛋白（PEN1）；细胞壁修饰酶、病程相关蛋白（PR-1、几丁质酶）	四跨膜蛋白（CD9、CD63、CD81）、ESCRT复合物蛋白（TSG101、Alix）、热休克蛋白（HSP70、HSP90）	[20,21]
核酸	携带sRNA，可调控植物抗逆、代谢	涵盖DNA、mRNA、miRNA、lncRNA、tRNA，多调控细胞增殖、凋亡	[20,21]
特异性组分	植物次生代谢物，类黄酮、姜黄素、叶绿素等	依赖细胞来源，如阿尔茨海默病患者外泌体中Aβ42蛋白、免疫细胞中免疫球蛋白等	[20,21]

国家/地区	产品名称（所含PDENs）	PDENs来源及护肤功效
美国	111SKIN Exosome Firming Concentrate （人参根愈伤组织PDENs）	激活成纤维细胞、促进I型胶原蛋白合成，8周提升皮肤弹性31.4%、减少皱纹23.6%
韩国	Cosrx （积雪草PDENs）	修复痘肌微损伤，7天缓解泛红，14天改善痘印色素沉着
日本	EXSEED iGS （葡萄籽芽PDENs）	抵御光老化，8周减少UV导致的色素沉着42%，提升皮肤弹性29%

品牌或产品名	宣称所含PDENs	护肤功效宣传
毕生之研厚脸皮冻干次抛	油橄榄叶PDENs	7天厚屏障，21天自扛老强调“细胞级修护”“真皮层渗透”
无敏氏植物干细胞修护系列	虎杖和枳雀PDENs	敏感肌修护与屏障强化
黑松露及PDENs护肤组合	包含小球藻外泌体	抵御光老化，8周减少UV导致的色素沉着42%，提升皮肤弹性29%
艾娑姟雅美肌赋颜微囊莹润水	荷叶、积雪草PDENs	深层补水与长效锁水、舒缓修护敏感肌、改善肤质与抗衰老

方法	优点	缺点	参考文献
超速离心法	操作简单、外泌体产率较高	超高速离心机设备成本高，高速离心易对外泌体造成损伤	[48,49]
密度梯度离心	操作简单、外泌体纯度高	常与超速离心联用，耗时长，规模小，回收率低	[48,49]
超滤离心法	仪器成本较低，获得的外泌体纯度较高	超滤管等耗材成本高，可能损伤外泌体，不能保持其形态	[48]
免疫亲和法	能特异性分离外泌体的选择性亚型	抗体磁珠或亲和柱耗材使用成本高，且易使外泌体失活	[48,49]
聚合物沉淀法	聚合物价格较低，操作简单、无需专门设备，目前已有商业化试剂盒	杂蛋白会与外泌体共沉淀，导致外泌体纯度降低	[48,49]
尺寸排阻色谱法	能保证较高的外泌体纯度、完整性和生物活性	外泌体浓度较低，需浓缩后应用，且色谱系统仪器成本高	[49]
微流控技术	分离时间短、成本低、灵敏度高	微流控设备及专用芯片昂贵，不适合大规模生产	[49]
双水相分离法	操作简单，适用于大量材料，仪器需求低	聚合物难以去除	[49]