Table of Content

22 October 2021, Volume 51 Issue 10 Previous Issue    Next Issue

Basic research

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Preparation of the hydrophobic hybrid capsule via droplet template method for encapsulating SOD Deng Ningjun,Tang Qiming,Hong Meiying,Sun Mengmeng,Guo Ting,Meng Tao 2021, 51 (10):  925-931.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.10.001 Abstract ( 260 )   HTML ( 44 )   PDF (1481KB) ( 498 )   To solve the problems in the storage stability of bioactive molecules in cosmetics, the CaCO3@Ca-Alg hybrid capsule with encapsulated superoxide dismutase （SOD） was prepared by droplet template method. Combined with the hydrophobic modification of the shell, the hydrophobic layer could prevent the infiltration of water molecules, thus improving the storage stability of the encapsulated substance. The results show that the SOD loaded hydrophobic hybrid capsule possesses uniform particle size and good monodispersity. The hydrophobicity of the hybrid capsule is improved with the increase of modification time. When the modification time is over 4 h, the hydrophobicity of the hybrid capsule remains stable. The relative enzyme activity of SOD encapsulated by this hybrid capsule is significantly higher than that of simple Ca-Alg capsule （the maximum difference can reach 300%）. The hydrophobic hybrid capsule can significantly improve the storage stability of SOD which will maintain more than 95% of the relative activity within 7 days. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Evaluation of enhanced oil recovery of the binary composite flooding system based on the sulfonate of kitchen waste oil and polyacrylamide Wang Qihao,Guo Haiyan,Wang Yuyi,Huang Xiaohe,Zhang Ya,Long Yunqian 2021, 51 (10):  932-938.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.10.002 Abstract ( 192 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (1516KB) ( 270 )   The salt of sulfonated kitchen waste oil （KWOS） was synthesized by sulfonation reaction. The interfacial performance between the KWOS solution and the crude oil was evaluated by measurement of interfacial tension, thermal stability, calcium and magnesium ion resistance and adsorption loss. The binary composite systems of polyacrylamide and KWOS were prepared to carry out oil displacement experiments at different permeabilities of core and various mass fraction of KWOS. The influences of core permeability and mass fraction of KWOS on the oil displacement were investigated. The results show that the interfacial tension between oil and water is gradually decreased with the increase of mass fraction of KWOS. When the mass fraction of KWOS reaches 0.175%, the interfacial tension between oil and water can be reduced to the order of magnitude of 10-3 mN/m. The interfacial tension between KWOS solution and crude oil is increased with the increase in thermal stability time, the total mass concentration of calcium and magnesium ions and the adsorption loss, but it can be still maintained in the order of 10-3 mN/m, indicative of a favorable adaptability to oil reservoir. With the decrease of core permeability and the increase of mass fraction of KWOS, the enhanced oil recovery of binary composite system first increases and then decreases. When the core permeability is 0.421 μm 2 and the mass fraction of KWOS is 0.3%, the binary composite system shows the highest enhanced oil recovery, illustrating that there are the best conditions for the binary composite system of polyacrylamide and KWOS in enhanced oil recovery. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Lecture of science and technology

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Cosmetic emulsions and new technologies of emulsification (Ⅴ) Application of liposomes entrapment technology in transdermal delivery Zhang Yaqi,Liang Rong,Yang Cheng 2021, 51 (10):  939-948.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.10.003 Abstract ( 745 )   HTML ( 26 )   PDF (2037KB) ( 618 )   The bioavailability of some active ingredients in cosmetics needs to be improved by nanoencapsulation technology due to their poor light/thermal stability and poor solubility. Among various encapsulation systems, liposomes are effective encapsulation method because of their similar structure to human skin cells and good biocompatibility. However, traditional liposomes are difficult to pass through the skin barrier due to their poor stability and deformability, it’s difficult to achieve the effect of promoting permeability. Nowadays, various new liposomes have been obtained by changing the structure of traditional liposomes’ phospholipid bilayer, such as ethosomes, niosomes, transferosomes, phytosomes, glycerosomes, etc. The effect of drug transdermal delivery has been improved by these new liposomes due to their good stability, deformability and the ability to change the lipid structure of stratum corneum. Herein, several new liposomes have been reviewed and their transdermal effects have been analyzed to provide reference and ideas for the field of cosmetic encapsulation. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Development and application

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Study on the preparation and transdermal performance of the ceramide nanoemulsion Wang Yuxuan,Liang Rong,Luo Yeyuan 2021, 51 (10):  949-955.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.10.004 Abstract ( 550 )   HTML ( 23 )   PDF (1741KB) ( 430 )   Ceramide is an important lipid in the stratum corneum of skin and plays an indispensable role in maintaining the normal physiological functions of skin. The skin contains the most abundant types of ceramides and there are currently 15 types of ceramides that have been detected. And among them, ceramide3 （Cer3） has the highest content in the skin and is an essential ingredient for regulating skin barrier function. However, Cer3 is very easy to crystallize when directly applied and thus it needs a carrier to improve its stability during application. Therefore, to improve the stability and bioavailability of Cer3, Cer3 nanoemulsions were prepared by high-pressure homogenization method. The effects of the amount of lecithin, the mass ratio of glycerol to water, the homogenization pressure, the number of cycles and the amount of phytosphingosine on the particle size and stability of the emulsions were studied. It is found that when the mass fraction of lecithin is 4%, the mass ratio of glycerol to water is 7:1, the average pressure is 90 MPa and the number of cycles is 9, the emulsion has good stability. Furthermore, phytosphingosine was added to the system to improve the storage stability of Cer3 nanoemulsion at high temperature. The results show that when the mass fraction of phytosphingosine is 1.5%, the Ostwald ripening rate of Cer3 nanoemulsion is decreased from 6.06 to 1.53 and the Cer3 nanoemulsion is gel-like at this time. It is found that the nanoemulsion particles are spherical and have a particle size of approximately 200 nm as observed by TEM. The results of Zeta potential show that the Cer3 nanoemulsion carries a positive charge and the potential is 36.67 mV. The transdermal performance of the Cer3 nanoemulsions with different mass fractions of phytosphingosine was also studied. It is found that the transdermal content of Cer3 is closely related to the potential value of the Cer3 nanoemulsion. When the mass fraction of phytosphingosine is 1.5%, the transdermal content of Cer3 is increased from 3.02 μg/cm 2 to 7.12 μg/cm 2, indicating that the addition of phytosphingosine can effectively improve the transdermal performance of Cer3. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Effects of fatty alcohol polyether emulsifiers on the preparation of low-viscosity emulsions Li Xilian,Hu Fan,Chen Minghua 2021, 51 (10):  956-962.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.10.005 Abstract ( 338 )   HTML ( 21 )   PDF (1646KB) ( 429 )   The effects of emulsifiers on the preparation of low-viscosity emulsions were studied. The long-term thermal stability of low-viscosity emulsions was monitored by investigating their rheological properties. The results show that cetearyl alcohol polyether emulsifier is suitable for preparing low-viscosity emulsions. For oil-in-water emulsifiers, given the same lipophilic group, the shorter the EO chain length, the better the yield stress and the centrifugal stability of the resulting emulsion. There is an optimal amount for cetearyl alcohol polyether emulsifier when it is solely used as the emulsifier. Its emulsifying property is good. The yield stress of the low-viscosity emulsion is significantly higher when cetearyl alcohol polyether emulsifier is combined with a low-HLB nonionic emulsifier, and the resulting particle size is smaller. It is highly likely due to the stronger interfacial film strength in the presence of two emulsifiers, because the emulsifier is the only variable in the studied emulsions. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation of diol-type ginsenoside W/O nanoemulsion and research on anti-aging mechanism of skin Wu Zichao,Ye Chao,Piao Mingguan 2021, 51 (10):  963-968.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.10.006 Abstract ( 392 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF (1257KB) ( 320 )   The diol-type ginsenoside W/O nanoemulsion was prepared and its anti-aging mechanism of skin was studied. According to the solubility of the diol-type ginsenoside and the pseudo-ternary phase diagram, we investigated the nanoemulsion prescription, and determined the nanoemulsion morphology, particle size distribution, drug loading and stability. The Franz diffusion cell was used to study the in vitro transdermal properties of the nanoemulsion, and the effect of local administration of the nanoemulsion on male mice skin microstructure was investigated by HE staining method. And the anti-aging effects of nanoemulsion was investigated as well. The best prescription for diol-type ginsenoside W/O nanoemulsion is isopropyl palmitate as oil phase, Span 80 as emulsifier, 1, 2-propylene glycol as co-emulsifier, and Km value=2. The ratio of oil phase to mixed emulsifier is 7.5∶2.5. The nanoemulsion has a round and uniform appearance, the average particle size is 17 nm, the particle size distribution value is 0.064, and the glycol-type ginsenoside content is 4.2 mg/mL. The physical stability is good. The results of in vitro transdermal experiments show that the cumulative permeation of the ginsenoside nanoemulsion is 1.640 7 mg/cm 2 after 12 h of transdermal administration, which is 2.832 2 times that of the cumulative permeation of 12 h in aqueous solution. The skin retention is 0.018 4 mg/cm2, which is 1.179 5 times that of the skin retention of the aqueous solution. The HE staining experiment is found that the structure of the epidermal structure is basically intact without pathological changes after using the ginsenoside nanoemulsion. The dermal collagen fibers are dense and abundant, mostly arrange in bundles. The results of animal experiments show that hydroxyproline, type I collagen, type III collagen, matrix metalloproteinase inhibitor 1 （TIMP-1）, and matrix metalloproteinase inhibitor 2 （TIMP-2） content are significantly higher than the blank group and the ginsenoside aqueous solution group, and the contents of matrix metalloproteinase 1 （MMP-1） are significantly lower than those in the blank group and the aqueous solution group. The prepared ginsenoside nanoemulsion has good stability and excellent transdermal performance, and can achieve anti-aging effects by inhibiting the decomposition of collagen and increasing the collagen content in the skin. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Study on the preparation and adsorption properties of β-cyclodextrin/tannin composite microspheres Jin Shaodi,Gu Dongya,Shi Zhichao 2021, 51 (10):  969-974.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.10.007 Abstract ( 233 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (1383KB) ( 276 )   The β-cyclodextrin/tannin composite microspheres （β-CD/TA） were prepared by reverse suspension crosslinking polymerization, using β-cyclodextrin and tannin as monomers, and epichlorohydrin as a crosslinker. The microspheres were characterized by infrared spectroscopy and X-ray diffraction, which proved that tannin was successfully immobilized on β-cyclodextrin. Taking methylene blue （a cationic dye） as the model organic adsorbent, the effects of the pH and mass concentration of the initial solution of the dye on the adsorption performance of the microspheres were investigated. The adsorption experiment showed that the synergistic action between β-cyclodextrin cavity and tannic hydroxyl group was beneficial to improve the electrostatic adsorption between microspheres and methylene blue under neutral pH conditions, and the adsorption rate was 80.31%. When the initial concentration of methylene blue was increased to 1 000 mg/L, the gaps in the network were filled, the adsorption sites tended to be saturated, and the maximum adsorption capacity reached 630.41 mg/g. The β-cyclodextrin/tannin composite microspheres have good reuse performance, which greatly improves the application value of the two monomers in the field of industrial wastewater adsorption. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Evaluation of preservation for preservative-free cosmetics Li Zengting,Lyu Xin,Li Qian,Cao Qianchao,Cui Xuewen 2021, 51 (10):  975-980.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.10.008 Abstract ( 424 )   HTML ( 19 )   PDF (907KB) ( 746 )   The preservative performance of preservative-free cosmetics in the market was evaluated by neutralizer verification and preservative challenge testing. 15 batches of cosmetics without preservatives were collected. Total Aerobic Microbial Count （TAMC）, Total Molds and Yeasts Count （TMYC） and pH value were determined according to “Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics” （2015 Edition）（hereinafter referred to as the Standards）. Water activity was determined according to GB 5009.238—2016 “National Food Safety Standard Determination of Water Activity of Food”. Preservative challenge testing was carried out according to the methods of relevant foreign standards. The results of TAMC and TMYC meet the requirements of the Standards. The results of neutralizer verification show that 3 batches （20%） need neutralizer to be replaced or further diluted. The results of preservative challenge testing show that, bacteria of 14 batches decrease by more than 99.9% in 7 days, and molds and yeasts of 9 batches decrease by more than 90% in 7 days. Only 9 batches （60%） of the samples meet the requirements of non-eye cosmetics of CTFA and AOAC. Samples are generally weakly acidic or neutral, with the highest pH value of 9.73 and the lowest of 4.68. The water activity of most samples is in the range of 0.850-1.000, except for the ones with the low values of 0.643 and 0.751. It is shown that, in microbiological determination, the risk of missing rate will be high according to the methods of the Standards, and some preservative-free cosmetics may have potential safety hazards; it is urgent to introduce the neutralizer verification and preservative challenge testing to the national standards of microbiological test for cosmetics. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Evaluation of anti-oxidation and whitening efficacy of salvia miltiorrhiza fermentation broth in vitro Mo Qiuting,Li Meng,Wang Dongdong,Zhang Jiachan,Wang Changtao,Zhao Dan 2021, 51 (10):  981-989.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.10.009 Abstract ( 356 )   HTML ( 18 )   PDF (1804KB) ( 346 )   Water extraction and microbial fermentation were used to prepare salvia miltiorrhiza water extract （SMWE） and salvia miltiorrhiza fermentation broth （SMFB）. Their antioxidative and whitening abilities were studied at biochemical, cellular and transcriptional levels. The experimental results show that both have good scavenging ability to DPPH free radicals. The IC50 value of SMWE is 10.3%, and the IC50 value of SMFB is 2.9%. At the same volume fraction, the scavenging ability of SMFB is better. At the cellular level, both of them show protective effects against hydrogen peroxide-induced injury of cells. Compared with the injury model, the total antioxidant capacity of the cells is increased, the MDA content and ROS content are reduced, and the CAT activity is increased. At the transcription level, it is verified that CAT expression is both increased after the two acting on cells. In the experiments of melanin synthesis inhibition and tyrosinase activity inhibition, the SMWE and the SMFB both show good whitening effects compared with the blank control. In general, compared with SMWE, the SMFB is better in terms of antioxidative and whitening effects. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Study on the dissolution process of anisic acid and its application in cosmetic Zhao Xuehua 2021, 51 (10):  990-996.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.10.010 Abstract ( 554 )   HTML ( 21 )   PDF (948KB) ( 458 )   The antibacterial effect of anisic acid gradually highlights its advantages in non-preservative skin care products. However, its insoluble property in water greatly limits its use in cosmetics. Therefore, in the production process of cosmetics, the problem of realizing and accelerating the dissolution of anisic acid needs to be further solved. In this paper, the dissolution process and application of anisic acid in cosmetic were studied by the control variable method. The effects of the dosage of L-arginine, 1,2-hexanediol, and deionized water, their dissolution time and temperature on the dissolution process of anisic acid were investigated. The better quality ratios among the influencing factors were screened out. The anisic acid was applied as a preservative to a face cream and a lotion, and their stability and microbial challenges were tracked. The results show that the mass ratio range of anisic acid that can be completely dissolved is anisic acid:L-arginine:1,2-hexanediol:deionized water=1:（0-1.5）:（5-20）:（0.5-100）; and the optimal quality ratio range is 1:（0.8-1.5）:（5-20）:（0.5-2）, with the obtained solution relatively stable. The optimal dissolution temperature of anisic acid is 69-75 ℃. Under the condition of the mass ratio of L-arginine of 0~0.2, a face cream and a lotion were prepared respectively. Both products have passed 12-week stability test at -15, 25, 40 and 48 ℃. Microscopic images show that the size and distribution of the emulsion formed in the aqueous solution of the face cream and lotion cream at different temperatures for 12 weeks are uniform and have good long-term stability. The results of the microbial challenge test show that the cream can pass the level 1 preservative challenge, and the lotion can pass the level 3. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Reviews

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Current situation and prospect of skin informatization Zhang Huiyan,Cui Xueying,Wang Xiaoyi,Meng Hong,Xu Jiping 2021, 51 (10):  997-1002.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.10.011 Abstract ( 209 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (1077KB) ( 419 )   Skin as a barrier, is of great significance for the beauty and protection of human. A review of the research and application on the information in skin research was presented. It presents the correlation between skin index and body state, evaluation, prediction and decision making methods of cosmetics for the skin care to assist skin diagnosis and treatment system development and so on. The further research contents are also prospected, which include the characteristics of various skin evaluation methods, prediction and decision-making algorithms. And the correlation study of skin indexes with the human health and skin areas of concern is an important basis of the research and development of skin detection and analysis system, which highlight the role of informatization in helping the development of application fields. With the development of information, image, data and expert experiences are easier to obtain, analysis and store in computer than before, which makes it possible for the information technology to carry out the comprehensive evaluation, prediction and decision-making of skin index and state objectively and systematically. Skin research is complex, which could be influenced by many factors such as climate, region, sleeping and so on. In the future, skin informatization would integrate machine learning to mine the nonlinear correlation between research problems and indexes horizontally, extract the time evolution rules of index vertically, and make intelligent decision-making by experts and consumers cooperating. Data and image information will improve the study performance of the skin deeply and widely. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Analysis of common problems in safety technical evaluation of special cosmetics Niu Zhengrui,Li Lin,Su Zhe,Zhang Fenglan,Wang Gangli 2021, 51 (10):  1003-1010.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.10.012 Abstract ( 311 )   HTML ( 18 )   PDF (961KB) ( 444 )   The use of cosmetics has a long history. Nowadays, cosmetics have become one of the most common consumer products in people’s lives. However, from the perspective of per capita consumption level of cosmetics, China’s per capita consumption still lags behind developed countries. With the development of economy, improvement of people’s consumption level and the change of consumption consciousness, cosmetics industry has a broader development space. The production of cosmetics is a sunrise industry in economic development. Different from drugs, cosmetics mainly play the role of beautifying and embellishing life. Safety is the basic feature for cosmetics, and the efficacy of the products follows. Enterprises should put product safety in the first place in the progress of researching and developing cosmetics. China’s current regulations divide cosmetics into special cosmetics and ordinary cosmetics. Special cosmetics include hair dyeing cosmetics, perm cosmetics, skin bleaching and skin whitening cosmetics, sunscreen cosmetics and anti-hair loss cosmetics, as well as the cosmetics that claim new effects. Compared with ordinary cosmetics （such as cosmetics that claim to have cleansing or moisturizing effects）, special cosmetics have a higher risk to the consumers. Cosmetics are managed according to the risk degree in China. Special cosmetics are subject to registration management, and for ordinary cosmetics, record management are carried out. In China, the cosmetics safety evaluation department plays an important technical support role in the product safety review process. The safety technical evaluation for cosmetics is a key step in China’s cosmetics supervision system. Among the system, the evaluation for special cosmetics safety is the main part. Under the new framework of “Regulations on Supervision and Administration of Cosmetics”, higher requirements are put forward for cosmetic registrants and record holders, especially in quality management system, adverse reaction monitoring and evaluation, etc. Cosmetic applicants and technical evaluators should strengthen their studies, and pay more attention to the issues that affect safety in application details. Based on the practical experience of cosmetic safety technical evaluation, the author summarized, sorted out and analyzed issues affecting safety of special cosmetics according to specific cases, which can provide reference for cosmetic product research and development, regulatory agencies and technical institutions to carry out related work. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress on detection methods of lead and mercury in cosmetics Pu Sudan,Liu Yanru,Meng Peijun,Li Shurong,Luo Lixia 2021, 51 (10):  1011-1017.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.10.013 Abstract ( 304 )   HTML ( 20 )   PDF (936KB) ( 580 )   With the gradual improvement of people’s living standards, cosmetics have come into the life. The lead and mercury contained in cosmetics have a whiting effect on skin. However, an excess can cause great harm to people’s health. So, there are relevant laws and regulations at home and abroad that strictly limit the content of lead and mercury in cosmetics. Moreover, the health issues caused by excessive heavy metal elements such as lead and mercury in cosmetics have drawn a widespread public attention, and the detection methods have been constantly updated. Present situation and progress of research on detecting lead and mercury in cosmetics are summarized, including not only conventional methods, such as atomic absorption spectroscopy, atomic fluorescence spectroscopy, inductively coupled plasma emission spectroscopy, inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry, and electrochemical analysis, but also rapid detection methods, as of mercury analyzer, X-ray fluorescence spectroscopy, and laser induction spectroscopy. However, it is important to figure out which detection technology is the best way to test the excessive lead and mercury content in cosmetics. Actually, whether factory detection or sales process detection, it is necessary to choose an efficient, fast and low-cost detection methods for lead and mercury element in cosmetics. Based on the paper, in contrast to the differences of sensitivity and accuracy between various methods, it is found that electrochemical analysis technology exhibits outstanding advantages, such as simple, fast, and low-cost. What’s more, with the continuous innovation of its detection materials, it is of enormous potential for electrochemical method in the detection of heavy metals. This method provides a new idea for detecting lead and mercury in cosmetic. References | Related Articles | Metrics

Analytical methods and testing

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Simultaneous determination of 23 prohibited or restricted components in sunscreen cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography Shang Shu,Feng Youlong,Fang Fang 2021, 51 (10):  1018-1025.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.10.014 Abstract ( 218 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (1086KB) ( 405 )   High performance liquid chromatography （HPLC） method for simultaneous determination of 23 prohibited or restricted components in sunscreen cosmetics was established. The sample was dissolved and mixed with tetrahydrofuran or a mixed solvent, extracted by sonicating for 30 min, diluted with tetrahydrofuran or a mixed solvent, and filtered by a microporous membrane. For HPLC analysis, the sample was separated by Kromasil C18 column, and gradient elution was performed with 0.1% formic-methanol-tetrahydrofuran as the mobile phase, with the flow rate of 1.0 mL/min, column temperature of 35 ℃, detection wavelength of 311 nm. The quantitative determination was applied by standard curve method. The results show that there is a good linear relationship between the concentration of 23 prohibited or restricted components and the peak area is in a certain range, with the R values all greater than 0.998 4. The detection limits of the method are 0.01%-0.04%. At low and high spiked levels, the recoveries of the two substrates （sunscreen and lip balm） ranged from 85.6%-113.2%, with RSDs ranging from 0.4%-5.4%. This method is optimized on the basis of the loading method in Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics （2015 Edition）, so that the stability of each component in the detection process is better. On the basis of the “specification” detection method in this paper, the extraction solvent and the kind of mobile phase of the test sample solution is optimized. The new method can simultaneously determine amino acid and diphenyl ketone-2 of 23 kinds of sunscreen, improve the efficiency of the detection, enhance the stability of the component under test condition and ensure the stability of the measured component accuracy. In this paper, HPLC method was used to establish a simultaneous detection method for 23 kinds of prohibited or restricted sunscreen substances, and the extraction solvents and mobile phase types of the tested solutions were optimized. The new method overcomes the inaccuracy of the detection results caused by the easy oxidation of cresol trazole trisiloxane and other contained detection methods in the Code. The new method can simultaneously determine 23 kinds of sunscreens such as p-aminobenzoic acid and diphenylketone-2, which greatly improves the detection efficiency. The new method is proved to be accurate and repeatable, and is suitable for the inspection and detection of sunscreen cosmetics. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Simultaneous quantitative determination of the nine trace elements in human collagen by ICP-MS Wang Hui,Dong Qingbin,Yang Liping,Dai Lintao 2021, 51 (10):  1026-1031.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.10.015 Abstract ( 212 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (966KB) ( 339 )   A method for simultaneous quantitative determination of Cr, Fe, Ni, Cu, As, Mo, Cd, Hg and Pb in human collagen was established. Also, the linear range of each element was investigated. Moreover, this method of quantitative determination was verified. The results show that the nine trace elements present good linearity in the linear range, the correlation coefficient is more than 0.99, the limit of quantitation is 0.1-4.1 ng/kg, the quantitative concentration is 0.5-135 ng/kg, the precision RSD is 1.8%-6.0%, and the recovery is 88.5%-107.9%. This method has advantages of high efficiency, simplicity and accuracy, which can provide a reference for the quality monitoring in the production process of human collagen. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Detection of nine components including retinol in cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography Liu Yuling,Lin Liangliang,Pan Xiaohong,Zhao Wei,Yin Shuai 2021, 51 (10):  1032-1038.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.10.016 Abstract ( 1042 )   HTML ( 54 )   PDF (6102KB) ( 360 )   A method for the simultaneous determination of 9 components （adapalin, tretinoin, isotretinoin, viaminate, tazarotene, retinol, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate, retinol palmitate） in cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography was established. The effects of extraction solvents on the retinol components were explored, and it is found that when the extraction solvent is methanol-isopropanolas （volume ratio 55∶45）, the recovery rate of various retinol components can reach the best level. Meanwhile, to obtain higher sensitivity, the acidic mobile phase methanol-isopropanolassystem was used to separate the retinol components. It is found that when the pH is 4.5 and the concentration is 5 mmol/L, the resolution of the 9 retinol components can achieve the best results. Finally, the 9 retinol components were separated by CAPCELL PAK C18 （4.6 mm×250 mm×5 μm） column using 5 mmol/L ammonium acetate （pH=4.5）-methanol-isopropanolas as the mobile phase, and qualitative and quantitative analysis was performed by high performance liquid chromatography with DAD detection under the detection wavelength of 238, 325 and 355 nm. The flow rate was 1.0 mL/min. The results show that there is a good linear relationship in the range of 0.12-29.19 mg/L between concentration and peak area with R2 greater than 0.995 9. The limits of detection for adapalin, tretinoin, isotretinoin, viaminate, iazarotene, retinol, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate, and retinol palmitate are 2.01, 0.95, 1.72, 1.65, 0.78, 1.23, 1.94, 5.29 and 0.22 μg/g, respectively, and the limits of quantification are 6.70, 3.17, 5.73, 5.50, 2.60, 4.10, 6.47, 17.63 and 0.73 μg/g, respectively. The average recoveries are from 80.56% to 112.63%, with relative standard deviations in the range of 0.18% to 5.85%. This method has advantages such as simple pretreatment, high sensitivity, rapid and accurate. It is suitable for the simultaneous determination. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics