Table of Content

22 November 2020, Volume 50 Issue 11 Previous Issue    Next Issue

Basic research

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Effects of the structure of emulsifiers and oils on the formation and stability of O/W/O multiple emulsions ZHANG Qian-jie,DUAN Guo-lan,ZHANG Wan-ping 2020, 50 (11):  735-742.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.11.001 Abstract ( 614 )   HTML ( 44 )   PDF (3322KB) ( 626 )   O/W/O multi-structure emulsions were prepared by two-step method. By selecting three lipophilic emulsifiers, three hydrophilic emulsifiers, and six different types of oils （linear alkanes, branched alkanes, and esters grease）, the effects of the structure of emulsifiers and oils on the W/O and O/W interfaces were systematically analyzed, as well as their effects on the formation and stability of O/W/O multiple emulsions. The results showed that, for the W/O interface, the structure of W/O emulsifier played a crucial role on the formation of multiple structures of O/W/O. The multiple structures prepared with non-polar linear or branched oils had better stability, and the lower the polarity of the oil, the better the stability of the system. For the O/W interface, all of the three O/W emulsifiers could form O/W/O multiple structures in various oils, but the stability of the system was affected by various factors such as the viscosity and polarity of oils and the solubility of emulsifiers. Higher viscosity and smaller polarity of the oils would facilitate the long-term stability of the system. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Lecture of science and technology

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Study on the design and synthesis of amphiphilic polymers and their synergistic systems (XI) Amphiphilic-polymer gels YANG Hong-bin,KANG Wan-li,LI Zhe,Bauyrzhan Sarsenbekuly,JIANG Hai-zhuang,WANG Jia-lin 2020, 50 (11):  743-748.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.11.002 Abstract ( 264 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (1288KB) ( 374 )   Based on the introduction of characteristics and advantages of amphiphilic-polymer gels, the influencing mechanism and influencing rules of the components of polymer gel system and the reservoir application environment on the gel performance of amphiphilic-polymer gels have been discussed. Two methods for constructing composite gels based on amphiphilic polymers have been studied, including the methods of “inorganic-particle-reinforced” type and of “host-guest inclusion” type. Then the development trend of amphiphilic-polymer gels has been prospected. This work can provide a theoretical and technical basis for the design and application of amphiphilic-polymer gels. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Development and application

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Preparation and properties of alkylated chitosan sulfate JIA Zhen-yong,LI Ping,YANG Xiao-yi,GUO Chao-hua,LI Jian-bo 2020, 50 (11):  749-755.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.11.003 Abstract ( 251 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (1487KB) ( 452 )   Two kinds of chitosan surfactants, dodecyl chitosan sulfate （D10CTS） and decyl chitosan sulfate （D12CTS） were synthesized by Schiff base reaction, reduction, sulfation and neutralization reaction. Their structures were identified by infrared spectroscopy （FT-IR）, H NMR spectroscopy（1H NMR）, elemental analysis （EA）, and thermogravimetric analysis （TGA）. The results show that the degrees of alkylation are 0.77 and 0.52, and the degrees of sulfation are 1.35 and 1.79, respectively. Favourable surface activity and spreadability of D10CTS and D12CTS were evidenced by surface tension and contact angle measurements. The critical micelle concentrations （cmc） are 0.69 and 0.49 g/L, and the minimum surface tension γcmc are 39.50 and 35.75 mN/m, respectively. The target products possess certain foaming properties and emulsification performance. The surfactants are low-foaming and are expected to play a potential application in the field of cosmetics. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Screening and evaluation of demulsifiers for condensate fluids in typical blocks of Sulige Gas Field WANG Tian-tian,LI Ming-xing,YU Shu-zhen,ZHANG Zhen-yun,MA Jian-zhong,LV Bin 2020, 50 (11):  756-761.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.11.004 Abstract ( 294 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (1379KB) ( 274 )   Through screening and evaluating the demulsifiers used for the produced fluids of Wu * Station in Sulige Gas Field, 10 typical demulsifiers were systematically studied at the demulsification temperature of 25 ℃ and the demulsifier dosage of 1 500 mg/L. The results showed that SW-70 and ZX-F302 demulsifiers had the best dehydration effect, with dehydration rates of 91.00% and 88.30%, respectively; VT-1 and ZX-F302 demulsifiers had the best deoiling effect, both with a deoiling rate of 75.80%. The above-selected demulsifiers were further compounded to prepare high-efficiency demulsifiers. When the mass ratio of SW-70 to VT-1 was 1:1, a compound demulsifier with the best demulsification effect was obtained. After 5 hours of demulsification, the dehydration rate was 96.20%, and the deoiling rate was 90.25%, and the oil content in the water phase was 16.98 mg/L. The condensate, water and solid-particle impurities in the condensate produced fluid were separated into three phases. The condensate-water interface was neat, and the solid-particle impurities were flocculated at the bottom. After demulsification, the condensate and water were purified. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation and properties of trimethylsilyl pullulan JI Ying-ying,YANG Cheng 2020, 50 (11):  762-770.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.11.005 Abstract ( 305 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (1619KB) ( 573 )   Trimethylsilyl pullulan was synthesized using N, O-bis（trimethylsilyl）acetamide （BSA） as the silylation agent. The structure of the modified pullulan was characterized by 1H NMR, FT-IR and XPS. When n（P-OH）:n（BSA） was 9:15, the degree of substitution（DS） was as high as 2.89. Trimethylsilyl pullulan has excellent film-forming properties. The tensile strength and elongation at break of the film decrease with the increase of DS, but this phenomenon disappears when the DS is above 1.55. As the DS increases, the contact angle of the membrane with water and sebum increases, and the hydrophobic film has a certain degree of sebum resistance. Trimethylsilyl pullulan can emulsify the water phase to form a water-in-oil emulsion. The effects of DS and the type of oil phase on emulsification properties were studied. It shows that when the DS is 1.91, the emulsification performance is the best. Compared with the emulsion stabilized by EM90, although the size of emulsion stabilized by trimethylsilyl pullulan is larger, it has higher viscosity and better stability. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Validation study of amplified ATP bioluminescence assay for microbial detection in cosmetics ZHAI Lei,GE Yuan-yuan,CUI Sheng-hui,LIU Ji-quan,HONG Hai-jun,Annemieke Masolijn,YAO Su 2020, 50 (11):  771-775.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.11.006 Abstract ( 344 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (904KB) ( 463 )   Six kinds of cosmetics, including cleanser, care cosmetics and makeup categories, and seven representative microorganisms were selected to conduct the partial equivalence study between amplified ATP bioluminescence assay and the detection method of aerobic bacterial count and molds and yeast count in Safety and Technical Standard for Cosmetics （2015th Edition）. The seven representative microorganisms were inoculated into the six kinds of cosmetics at target concentrations of 10, 5, 1 and 0.1 CFU/g, respectively. Tests on each concentration were repeated five times. Fisher exact test statistical analysis show that the detection limit of amplified ATP bioluminescence assay is significantly better than that of the standard method （p=0.000 1）. Seven representative strains grew well in the MTAT medium, and the results of artificially contaminated samples detected by the amplified ATP bioluminescence assay were all positive, indicating that the method has good specificity. Three different laboratories were selected to compare the two methods using the same samples, and no statistical difference was found in the results, indicating the method is reproducible （p>0.05）. The enrichment media MTAT, prepared with selected brands of TAT base medium, were assessed using growth promotion, and their ATP test results were all positive, indicating that the method is has good durability. Therefore, the amplified ATP bioluminescence assay is partially equivalent to the standard method. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation and properties of hydrophobically modified hyaluronic acid SHI Meng-lin,LIU Li-jia,SHANG Ya-zhuo,LIU Hong-lai 2020, 50 (11):  776-782.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.11.007 Abstract ( 478 )   HTML ( 21 )   PDF (1567KB) ( 843 )   Cholesterol （CHO） was grafted onto the molecular structure of hyaluronic acid （HA） through a chemical reaction to obtain a modified product HACHO. 1H NMR and FT-IR were used to characterize the structure of the modified product. Transmission electron microscope （TEM）, fluorescence spectrum and rheometer were used to study the critical aggregation concentration, self-assembly behavior and rheological behavior of HACHO in water. The cell viability of the modified product HACHO was evaluated by the MTT assay. On this basis, HACHO was used to prepare bi-gel emulsion, and the stability of the emulsion was investigated. The results showed that, HACHO had interfacial activity and good biocompatibility, and could form a network structure in aqueous phase to stabilize the bi-gel emulsion. Therefore, HACHO showed a broad application prospect in the field of cosmetics. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Study on the anti-aging efficacy of Sanqi extract GAO Si-yu,HUO Tong,LI Xue-tao,YAO Xue-min,LU Jun-cong,QUAN Qiang-hua 2020, 50 (11):  783-787.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.11.008 Abstract ( 526 )   HTML ( 16 )   PDF (1413KB) ( 395 )   An aging animal model was established and the anti-aging effects of Sanqi extract as a cosmetic ingredient were evaluated. D-galactose was injected subcutaneously for 45 days to obtain an aging mouse model. The samples were continuously applied to the hairless area for 50 days. Multifunctional skin analyzer was used to measure the skin color, pigment, and pores of the mouse skin. Collagen I （Col-I）, Collagen III （Col-III） and vimentin （VIM） were evaluated by immunohistochemical staining. Total superoxide dismutase （T-SOD）, catalase （CAT）, glutathione peroxidase （GSH-Px） and malondialdehyde （MDA） in skin tissue homogenates were measured to evaluate the changes in antioxidant capacity after sample treatment. The results showed that the ointment containing 4% Sanqi extract could significantly increase the content of Col-I, Col-III and VIM by immunohistochemical staining. Sanqi ointment had a good dosage-dependent effect on the up-regulation of T-SOD and GSH-Px. Compared with the blank matrix group, the T-SOD activity was increased by 36.62%, the CAT activity was increased by 20.39%, and the GSH-Px activity was increased by 68.77% after treatment with the ointment containing 4% Sanqi extract. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Determination of components and activity of extractions of Polygonatum kingianum and evaluation of its cytotoxicity SHI Yang,WANG Li-chuan,MA Zhan-lin,ZHOU Ji,CHEN Jun-wen,ZHAO Ming 2020, 50 (11):  788-792.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.11.009 Abstract ( 522 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF (1236KB) ( 868 )   Extractions of Polygonatum kingianum were prepared, and the contents of polysaccharide, polyphenols, saponins, flavonoids, as well as the antioxidant activity and tyrosinase inhibitory activity were determined. The safety of the extraction was studied by cell test, and its application potential in daily chemical products was evaluated. The results show that the contents of total polysaccharides, polyphenols, saponins, flavonoids of dried, steamed and alcoholic extractions of P. kingianum were 39.68%-56.33%, 0.31%-4.11%, 4.10%-8.54%, 0.14%-0.47%, respectively. The three kinds of extractions show a certain reducing power, high scavenging rate of hydroxyl radical and DPPH free radical, and tyrosinase inhibitory activity. With the same concentration, the activity of the alcoholic extraction of P. kingianum is significantly higher than the other two extractions （P<0.05）. The activities of keratinocytes and fibroblast cells reveal that 0.2% of alcoholic extraction of P. kingianum is non-cytotoxic. Together, the extraction of P. kingianum, especially the alcoholic extraction, are rich in polysaccharides, saponins and other active compounds, and show antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitory activities without cytotoxicity. It has an important application value in daily chemical products. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Reviews

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Progress in research of skin permeability of cosmetics Evaluation method and enhancement technology YANG Man-li,ZHOU Ming-yue,HU Xue-qing,CHEN Feng,HE Cong-fen,JIA Yan 2020, 50 (11):  793-798.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.11.010 Abstract ( 1556 )   HTML ( 55 )   PDF (893KB) ( 1633 )   For the transdermal delivery system used in cosmetics, the common methods for promoting penetration have been listed, including chemical permeation-enhancing techniques, nanotechnology （nanoemulsions, nanocrystals, liposomes, niosomes, micelles, etc.）, physical permeation-enhancing techniques （iontophoresis, ultrasonic introduction, and microneedle） and biological permeability-promoting technology. The testing methods of transdermal absorption of cosmetics in vitro （in-vitro diffusion cell method, mathematical model, three-dimensional skin model, LC-MS, and Raman spectroscopy） have been briefly introduced, and the future transdermal penetration methods of cosmetics have been prospected. References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Design of appearance and package of facial soap products based on visual creativity of graphic elements WANG Xiao-gu,LIU Kang 2020, 50 (11):  799-803.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.11.011 Abstract ( 226 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (924KB) ( 484 )   In order to enhance the creativity of design of the appearance and package of facial soap products and make the design personalized and irreplaceable, we have discussed this issue based on the visual creativity of graphic elements. Through the analysis of graphic elements, it can be seen that the graphic elements belong to the unique feature description in the packaging design of soap products; in modern packaging design, the graphic creativity used in the appearance packaging of soaps should follow four principles: accuracy, individuation, artistry and limitation; based on the visual creativity of graphic elements, the appearance packaging design of soap products can be realized from the following aspects: graphic isomorphism, positive and negative graphics, variant shadows, text graphics, text deformation, text combination, integration of traditional art and reasonable color use. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Analytical methods and testing

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Simultaneous determination of eleven coumarins in cosmetics by ultra high performance liquid chromatography and verification by liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry CHEN Wei,ZHANG Bin,CHEN Li-bo,QIAN Ye-fei,ZHAO Qi,JIA Chang-ping 2020, 50 (11):  804-808.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.11.012 Abstract ( 335 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (1051KB) ( 766 )   A method for the simultaneous determination of eleven coumarins （8-hydroxypsoralen, psoralen, 6-methylcoumarin, isopsoralen, 8-methoxypsoralen, 5-methoxypsoralen, bavachin, neobavaisoflavone, trioxsalen, imperatorin and isoimperatorin） in cosmetics by ultra high performance liquid chromatography verification by liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry was established. The cosmetic samples were ultrasonically extracted with methanol for 20 min, centrifuged, and the supernatant was filtered through a microporous membrane for determination. An ACQUITY UPLC HSS T3 chromatographic columns （2.1 mm×50 mm, 1.8 μm） was used for gradient elution at a flow rate of 0.3 mL/min with acetonitrile-water as the mobile phases. The wavelengths of detection were 246 and 278 nm. The column temperature was set at 30 ℃. The results of ultra high performance liquid chromatography were used for qualitative screening, the standard curve method was used for quantification, and the results of liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry were used for verification. The results show that the linear ranges of the eleven coumarins were 0.1-10 mg/L, and the correlation coefficients were all greater than 0.999 7. The detection limits are 0.1-0.6 mg/kg. The average recoveries are 95.3%-110.0% with RSDs of 0.4%-2.6% at low, medium and high spiked levels. The method is simple, rapid and accurate for the simultaneous determination of eleven coumarins in cosmetics. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research on the determination of o-cymene-5-ol in oral care and cleansing products by HPLC SHI Yi-lei 2020, 50 (11):  809-814.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.11.013 Abstract ( 402 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (1187KB) ( 521 )   A reversed-phase high performance liquid chromatographic method was developed for the determination of o-cymene-5-ol in oral care and cleansing products such as toothpastes and mouthwash. Samples were extracted by 50% methanol aqueous solution, and preprocessed by magnetic stirring, ultrasonic extraction, centrifugation and filtration. Dionex Acclaim TM 120 C18 was used as a chromatographic column and acetonitrile-10 mmol/L monopotassium phosphate as mobile phase for gradient elution. The flow rate was 1.5 mL/min, and the column temperature was 30 ℃. The detection was carried out by a diode array detector with the wavelength of 279 nm. The external standard method was used for quantitative analysis. The mass concentration of o-cymene-5-ol in the range of 1.00-15.0 mg/L shows a good linear relationship with the peak area. The correlation coefficient is 0.999 9, the detection limit is 20 mg/kg and the quantitative limit is 60 mg/kg. The recovery rate is 96.3%-101.4%, and the relative standard deviation is 0.41%-1.63% （n=6） . The method is simple, sensitive and reproducible. It is suitable for the determination of o-cymene-5-ol in oral care and cleansing products. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics