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Table of Content

    22 September 2020, Volume 50 Issue 9 Previous Issue    Next Issue
    Basic research
    Synthesis and properties of sodium dodecyl phthalate monoester
    ZHANG Zhi-dong,FANG Yin-jun,LIU Xue-feng
    2020, 50 (9):  581-587.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.09.001
    Abstract ( 279 )   HTML ( 87 )   PDF (1421KB) ( 460 )  
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    Lecture of science and technology
    Study on the design and synthesis of amphiphilic polymers and their synergistic systems (IX)Rheological properties
    KANG Wan-li,HE Ying-qi,YANG Hong-bin,WANG Fang,Bauyrzhan Sarsenbekuly
    2020, 50 (9):  588-595.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.09.002
    Abstract ( 256 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (1069KB) ( 438 )  

    The rheological properties of amphiphilic polymers and their synergistic systems are reviewed. Firstly, the rheological properties of amphiphilic polymers are summarized, including the viscosity relationship, rheological properties under steady and dynamic shear conditions and rheological model. Secondly, the effects of temperature, salinity and time on the rheological properties of amphiphilic polymers are discussed. Finally, the rheological properties of three synergetic systems containing amphiphilic polymers are described, which are electrostatic synergetic system, hydrophobic associative synergetic system and host/guest package synergetic system.

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    Development and application
    Study on the interaction between N-acyl amino acid surfactants and bovine serum albumi
    HUI Meng-meng,ZHANG Chen-long,YANG Xu-zhao,BAI Ya-rong,WANG Jun
    2020, 50 (9):  596-602.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.09.003
    Abstract ( 357 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (1326KB) ( 463 )  

    The interaction between bovine serum albumi (BSA) and three N-acyl amino acid surfactants, including sodium lauroyl sarcosinate (SLS), sodium lauroyl glutamate (SLGLU) and sodium lauroyl glycine (SLG) was studied by fluorescence spectrum and UV spectrum in this paper. The fluorescence peak wavelength of tryptophan residue in BSA showed a blue-shift with the increase of the concentration of the three surfactants, and the polarity of microenvironment around the tryptophan residue was decreased. The critical aggregation concentrations (cac) of the three surfactants on protein surface of BSA by fluorescence spectrum are: cacSLS=0.4 mmol/L, cacSLG=0.1 mmol/L, and cacSLGLU=0.09 mmol/L, respectively. The binding isotherms of BSA interacted with the three surfactants can be divided into four feature regions: specific binding, non-cooperative binding, cooperative binding and saturation. With the increase of surfactant concentration, the characteristic UV absorption wavelength of tryptophan residue in BSA is red shifted, and the polarity of amino acid residues in the microenvironment is decreased; while the characteristic UV absorption wavelengths of tyrosine and phenylalanine residues in BSA are blue-shift, and the polarity of amino acid residues in BSA is enhanced. The binding site of BSA with the three surfactants was confirmed at the vicinity of Trp-213 of BSA domain II A by probe molecules, such as phenylbutazone, ibuprofen and heme chloride. The interaction modes between AAS and BSA at different surfactant concentrations were analyzed.

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    Preparation and properties of palmitate cassava starch
    WEI Ai-fen,YU Bin,WEI Li-min
    2020, 50 (9):  603-608.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.09.004
    Abstract ( 286 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (993KB) ( 334 )  

    Using cassava starch as raw material, palmitic acid as esterification agent, sodium silicate and acetic acid as composite catalysts, palmitate cassava starch was prepared by dry process. The effects of palmitate, catalyst, reaction time and reaction temperature on the degree of substitution and surface tension of starch ester were studied. The relationship between the degree of substitution of palmitate cassava starch and its surface activity and emulsifying property was studied. The results of the degree of substitution and infrared spectrum show that the starch has been esterified by palmitate acid. The optimum reaction conditions are as follows: the amount of cassava starch is 100 g, the amount of palmitic acid is 15 g, the amount of composite catalyst (the mass ratio of sodium silicate to acetic acid is 5∶1) is 7.5 g, the reaction temperature is 160 ℃, and the reaction time is 4 h. The DS of the product is 0.012 3, its palmitate content is 2.39% (w/w), the critical micelle concentration is 30 g/L, and its surface tension is 25.87 mN/m. The test results indicate that the palmitate cassava starch has good surface activity and emulsifying property.

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    Study on the preparation and transdermal performance of epigallocatechin gallate liposome
    CAO Zhen-da,LIANG Rong
    2020, 50 (9):  609-614.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.09.005
    Abstract ( 252 )   HTML ( 16 )   PDF (1013KB) ( 422 )  

    Epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) liposomes (EL) were prepared by membrane-ultrasonic dispersion using soybean lecithin and cholesterol as encapsulation materials. The effects of the amount of cholesterol, hydration temperature, ultrasonic time, EGCG addition amount on the particle size, PDI, entrapment efficiency and yield of EL were studied. Also, the transdermal performance and the storage stability of EL were measured. The results show that, when the mass ratio of lecithin to cholesterol is 1∶0.25, the ultrasonic time is 6 min, the hydration temperature is 50 ℃, and the mass ratio of EGCG to lecithin is 0.075∶1, the high encapsulation efficiency and yield are achieved as 84.75%±2.12% and 93.78%±2.16%, and the particle size is (132.74±1.03) nm, the PDI is 0.245±0.009. According to the storage stability and transdermal experiments, liposomes can improve the transdermal transport and stability of EGCG significantly compared with the EGCG aqueous solution.

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    Diversity of skin microbiome in children aged 0-2 years old with mild perioral eczema and the effects of emollients treatment on the microflora
    ZHENG Yu-mei,WANG Qian,MA Lai-ji,CHEN Yuan-yuan,GAO Ying,SONG Li-ya
    2020, 50 (9):  615-619.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.09.006
    Abstract ( 428 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (1163KB) ( 518 )  

    16SrRNA gene high-throughput sequencing technique was used to study the difference of bacterial composition between mild eczema skin and healthy skin of 0-2 year-old children as well as before and after using emollient. It was found that compared with the healthy group, the abundance of Actinomycetes, Azospirillum and Rhodococcus increase significantly in eczema group, while the abundance of [Prevotella], Limnobacter, Agrobacterium and Lactobacillus decrease significantly (P<0.05). At the species level, the abundance of Staphylococcus aureus P<0.01), Hyphomicrobium zavarzinii, and Streptococcus anginosus P<0.05) are significantly higher, while the abundance of Staphylococcus haemolyticusP<0.05) and Pseudoxanthomonas mexicanaP<0.001) are significantly lower. After the use of emollients for one week, the clinical symptoms of eczema are improved, and the number of bacteria operational taxonomic units (OTUs) shared by the healthy and post-treatment mild eczema groups increase compared with those shared by the healthy and mild eczema groups. Taxonomic composition analysis reveals that Anoxybacillus Anoxybacillus kestanbolensis), Micrococcus Micrococcus luteus), and Mycoplana levels increase significantly after applying emollients, while Actinomyces, Azospirillum, Hyphomicrobium H.zavarzinii), and Burkholderia Burkholderia bryophila) decrease significantly (P<0.05). The results show that the bacterial composition of mild perioral eczema-like skin is different from that of healthy skin, which is related to the significant increase of Staphylococcus aureus. Moisturizing cosmetics such as emollients can relieve mild eczema and it is related to the decrease of the abundance of pathogenic bacteria such as Actinomycetes and Staphylococcus aureus.

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    Study on the rheological properties of glycerin solution of anhydrous toothpaste thickener
    XU Chun-sheng,CHEN Li-na,LIU Dong-hui
    2020, 50 (9):  620-623.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.09.007
    Abstract ( 447 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (1150KB) ( 496 )  

    DV3T rheometer was used to test the rheological curve of the glycerine solution of hydroxypropyl gelatine and carbomer. The relevant consistency coefficient, pseudoplastic factor and viscosity were analyzed by power-law equation fitting. The test data show that the rheological properties of 1.6% hydroxypropyl gelatine and 0.9%-1.0% carbomer 956 meet the requirements of anhydrous toothpaste formulation.

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    Synthesis and anti-oxidant activity of feruloylamino acid ethyl ester
    GUO Xiao-dan,SONG Jing-jiu,ZHU Jun
    2020, 50 (9):  624-628.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.09.008
    Abstract ( 309 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (956KB) ( 412 )  

    Ferulic methionine ethyl ester (Ⅰ), feruli isoleucine ethyl ester (Ⅱ), feruli threonine ethyl ester (Ⅲ) and feruli phenylalanine ethyl ester (Ⅳ) were synthesized by EDC condensation using ferulic acid and amino acid ethyl ester hydrochloride as raw materials, and 1-(3-dimethylaminopropyl)-3-ethylcarbodiimide hydrochloride (EDC·HCl) and 1-hydroxybenzotriazole (HOBt) as catalysts. The structure of the products was characterized by 1H NMR and HPLC-MS, and the activities of ferulic acid and ethyl ferulic acid in scavenging DPPH and ABTS free radicals were compared. The results show that the four kinds of ferulic acid ethyl ester scavenged free radicals better, and the scavenging rates are higher than that of ferulic acid monomer. The ferryl phenylalanine ethyl ester (Ⅳ) has the strongest ability to scavenge DPPH free radicals and ABTS free radicals, with IC50 of 37.567 and 1.689 μmol/L, respectively. The red blood cells hemolysis test show that the irritation of the synthesized derivatives of ferulic acid Ⅰ, Ⅲ and Ⅳ is less than that of ferulic acid.

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    Reviews
    Research progress on detection of sex hormones in cosmetics
    HU Bei,LI Li-xia,LIU Hong,HUANG Wei,DING Xiao-ping
    2020, 50 (9):  629-637.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.09.009
    Abstract ( 359 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (843KB) ( 324 )  

    The categories and safety risks of sex hormones in cosmetics were presented. The detection standards and the cutting-edge methods reported referring to these categories of sex hormones in cosmetics were also introduced. The advantages and disadvantages of various detection methods were introduced, including HPLC, UPLC, HPLC-MS and other detection methods (GPC-LC-MS/MS, UPC2, PMME-HPLC, and SPE-MELC). Finally, the development trend of detection methods for sex hormones in cosmetics was mentioned.

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    Sensitive scalp and microecologic barrier
    REN Hui,TANG Xiao-qin,CHEN Ming-hua
    2020, 50 (9):  638-642.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.09.010
    Abstract ( 569 )   HTML ( 26 )   PDF (844KB) ( 1632 )  

    This article reviews the recent studies on sensitive scalp and its relationship with microecological barriers, including the distribution of common microorganisms on the scalp, the interaction between microorganisms and scalp, and the importance of microecological barrier on sensitive scalp. This article discusses the pathway of the positive and negative effects of the microbial community on the scalp, and analyses the common symptoms of sensitive scalp and the corresponding changes of scalp microbiota.

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    Analytical methods and testing
    Determination of cimetidine and ranitidine in cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry
    WANG Cong,LI Li,WANG Hai-yan,SUN Lei
    2020, 50 (9):  643-647.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.09.011
    Abstract ( 301 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (1110KB) ( 412 )  

    A high performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometric method was established for determination of cimetidine and ranitidine in cosmetics. Samples were extracted by methanol ultrasonically, and then filtered through a 0.2 μm membrane. After separated by a ZORBAX SB-Aq column, samples were detected by MRM with electrospray ion source in positive mode. Matrix-matched external standard calibration curves were used for quantitative analysis. The concentration limits of detection of cimetidine and ranitidine were 0.03 and 0.02 ng/g, respectively. In the mass concentration range of 1-100 ng/mL, cimetidine and ranitidine showed good linear relationship with correlation coefficients all above 0.999.The recoveries for cimetidine and ranitidine at three spiked levels were in the range of 84.9%-116.2%, and the relative standard deviations of their recoveries were not more than 5%. This method was able to be applied in determination of cimetidine and ranitidine in cosmetics with simple pretreatment, good linearity and high recovery.

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    Determination of tetracaine and its salts in cosmetics by IC and HPLC
    GUO Xiang-yu,ZHAO Wei-zhe,WANG Feng,XIA De-fu,LI Wen-tao,MA Qiang
    2020, 50 (9):  648-652.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.09.012
    Abstract ( 375 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (1107KB) ( 344 )  

    Two analytical methods were developed for the determination of tetracaine and its salts in cosmetics based on ion chromatography (IC) and high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). The two detection methods were compared. The limit of detection (LOD) and quantitation (LOQ) of tetracaine were 10 and 25 mg/kg for the IC method. The average recoveries ranged from 87.6% to 102.7% with the relative standard deviations (RSDs) of 1.1%-4.7%. The LOD and LOQ were 2 and 5 mg/kg for the HPLC method. The average recoveries ranged from 89.5% to 105.6% with the RSDs of 1.4%-5.8%. The suspected positive samples were subjected to further verification by high-performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS/MS). The chromatographic retention time of tetracaine and its salts was both within 5 min and the experimental data of the two methods met the performance requirements.

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