Table of Content

22 July 2020, Volume 50 Issue 7 Previous Issue    Next Issue

Basic research

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Rheological properties of pH-responsive viscoelastic micellar system of oleylamidopropyl dimethyl amine/potassium hydrogen phthalate CUI Xiu,FANG Bo,XU Hai-tao 2020, 50 (7):  433-438.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.07.001 Abstract ( 336 )   HTML ( 145 )   PDF (1365KB) ( 273 )   The pH responsiveness of the viscoelastic micellar system of oleylamidopropyl dimethyl amine （PKO-O）/potassium hydrogen phthalate （PHP） was studied by investigating the rheological properties such as steady-state shear viscosity, flow curve, shear thixotropy, viscoelasticity and thermal thixotropy of the fluid. The steady-state shear viscosity of the micellar system （pH=7.47） was high, which was 122.3 mPa·s at 200 s-1. And the steady-state shear viscosity could be switched cyclically between the status at pH 7.61, 7.47 and 6.40, indicating that this micellar system had good pH responsiveness. In addition, the PKO-O/PHP micellar system was shear-thinning and positive thixotropic fluid. The flow curve could be characterized by the Cross constitutive equation. The micellar system （pH=7.47） was a typical viscoelastic fluid with high complex modulus and significant thermal thixotropy. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Lecture of science and technology

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Study on the design and synthesis of amphiphilic polymers and their synergistic systems （VII）Emulsification with supramolecular systems KANG Wan-li,LI Xin-xin,ZHOU Bo-bo,YANG Hong-bin,Bauyrzhan Sarsenbekuly,Saule Aidarova 2020, 50 (7):  439-445.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.07.002 Abstract ( 314 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (1127KB) ( 588 )   The research status of emulsification by using amphiphilic-polymer supramolecular systems in recent years has been reviewed, mainly including the emulsification characteristics of surfactant synergistic systems, cyclodextrin host-guest inclusion systems and electrostatic interaction systems. The effects of shear rate and salts on the emulsifying properties of supramolecular systems have been summarized, as well as the stability mechanism of the emulsions of three supramolecular synergistic systems. It might provide theoretical basis and development direction for the application of emulsification with amphiphilic-polymer supramolecular systems in the future. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Development and application

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Study on the synthesis and properties of fatty amido propyl phosphobetaine LIU Jia-jia,XU Hu-jun 2020, 50 (7):  446-451.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.07.003 Abstract ( 443 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (1210KB) ( 476 )   Three fatty amide propyl phosphobetaines （abbreviated as Cn-APA, where n=12, 14 or 16） were synthesized with three fatty acid amidopropyl tertiary amines and sodium 2-hydroxy-3-chloropropyl phosphate by different experimental methods. The results show that the yield of the pressurized reaction is as high as 95%. Compared with the atmospheric pressure reaction, the pressurized reaction can greatly shorten the reaction time and increase the reaction yield. The structure of the products was characterized by infrared spectroscopy and mass spectroscopy. The surface activity, detergency performance, foam properties, emulsifying properties and antistatic performance of the three products were investigated. The results show that the cmc of C12-APA, C14-APA and C16-APA are 5.1×10-4, 3.4×10-4 and 8.2×10-5 mol/L, respectively, and all products possess good foam stability, good emulsifying properties, good detergency to sebum, and excellent antistatic properties. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Flow characteristics of production fluid in heavy oil reservoirs of LD-27-2 oilfield LIU Yi-gang,LIU Jian-bin,ZOU Jian,ZHANG Hua,HAN Xiao-dong,LIU Hao 2020, 50 (7):  452-456.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.07.004 Abstract ( 303 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (1398KB) ( 583 )   The thermal recovery development method adopted in the heavy oil reservoir of LD-27-2 oilfield is cycle steam stimulation. In the development process, the main factors affecting the viscosity change of the production fluid were heavy oil group composition, temperature, water content and liquid production rate. Firstly, the influencing factors affecting the viscosity change of heavy oil in LD-27-2 oilfield were studied through laboratory experiments. Then, the fluidity model of the heavy oil reservoir in the LD-27-2 oilfield was established in combination with the wellbore data of the production well. Finally, based on the cycle steam stimulation parameters and production data, the bottom-hole flow temperature chart of the heavy oil reservoir and the viscosity chart of theproduction fluid of the heavy oil reservoir were established. According to the established bottom-hole flow temperature chart, the bottom fluid temperature and corresponding formation temperature of the production fluid in different stages of heavy oil steam stimulation in the LD-27-2 oilfield could be calculated. Combined with the viscosity chart of the production fluid, the viscosity of the production fluid in different flow stages and steam stimulation stages could be calculated, which could provide a guidance for oilfield production and implementation of measures. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Application of PCA algorithm in the research of facial micro-ecology GAO Xue-yi,WANG Yu,HE Cong-fen,FENG Chun-bo,CHEN Yuan-yuan,SONG Li-ya 2020, 50 (7):  457-463.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.07.005 Abstract ( 393 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (1131KB) ( 456 )   Some disadvantages such as cumbersome process and difficult microorganism confirmation exist when traditional chemical reagent method is used to study the influence of mask on facial micro-ecology. In order to solve this problem, a method of micro-ecological analysis based on principal component analysis （PCA） was proposed. First, PCA was used to reduce the dimensionality of the facial micro-ecological data which could determine the eigenvector and the dimension k when the cumulative contribution rate was 95%. Then, when the threshold value was also 95%, the mapping relationship between eigenvector and the facial micro-ecological data was used to determine the attributes with large contribution rate in the facial micro-ecological data, namely, the types of microorganisms which could improve the facial skin status. The experimental results showed that the proposed method could effectively overcome the shortcomings of the traditional chemical reagent method, and could be used to quickly and accurately determine the microorganism species which were related to the improvement of the skin status after using the mask. Meanwhile, the differences of the changes of microorganism species caused by different masks were also found, which could provide suggestions for the cosmetics industry to make more beneficial masks for facial skin. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Color formulation design of cosmetics based on BP neural network WU Shao-juan,GUO Qing-quan 2020, 50 (7):  464-469.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.07.006 Abstract ( 506 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (1240KB) ( 352 )   To explore the feasibility of prediction of color formulas of cosmetics based on BP neural network model, one hundred lipstick samples of different proportions of pigments were prepared. The BP neural network model was constructed by MATLAB R2016a software, which was composed of two hidden layers with 15 nodes and one output layer with three network structures. The nonlinear mapping relationship between the RGB parameters and the mass ratio of lipstick pigments were formed. When the training times were 10 000 and the learning rate was 0.5, the color error parameters were all less than 0.6, and there was no significant color difference between the predicted formula and the real formula. Hence the color matching method based on BP neural network model could directly generate the color formula and provide a quick and simple reference tool for color engineers. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Quality variation study of sunscreen cosmetics by attenuated total reflection Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy HE Xin-xin,CAO Jin,WANG Gang-li 2020, 50 (7):  470-476.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.07.007 Abstract ( 354 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (1263KB) ( 302 )   Attenuated total reflection Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy （ATR-FTIR） was used to differentiate sunscreen cosmetics with different formulations and track their quality changes. The results show that the integrity and fingerprint of the infrared spectrum of single and mixed emulsions are similar because of the same matrixes. However, the second-order derivation of the spectrum can magnify the difference between the fingerprint intervals of each spectrum, and can be used to differentiate sunscreen lotions with small differences in composition. During the 6-month accelerated experiment, the infrared spectrum experience obvious changes, with significant reducing or disappearing peak intensity and changing peak positions. Besides, the degree of change gradually increases with the acceleration time. According to the changing conditions of spectrum and correlation coefficient of the blank emulsion during acceleration, the correlation coefficient value of 0.980 0 is determined as the critical value of the overall quality change of such cosmetics during infrared detection. That is, when the correlation coefficient of the spectrum decreases to 0.980 0, the overall quality of the cosmetic has changed and reached the end of its shelf-life. It can be seen that ATR-FTIR is a direct way to reflect the overall quality change of the product during its storage period, and proved to be a rapid and scientific method for the overall quality inspection of cosmetic. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research on the key components of dry shampoos LI Gang,JIANG Chun-peng 2020, 50 (7):  477-480.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.07.008 Abstract ( 394 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF (1124KB) ( 372 )   The key components, i.e. modified starches and suspending agents, in dry shampoos were studied. The results showed that among the three starches （rice starch, corn starch and tapioca starch） , rice starch exibited the best oil absorption, and its oil absorption test value was 116.5%, while the oil absorption test values of the other two modified starches were 65%. Among the three modified starches, corn starch showed the best anti-flocculation effect in ethanol, followed by rice starch and tapioca starch. Among the three suspending agents commonly used in dry shampoos such as magnesium stearate, magnesium aluminum silicate and aluminum starch octenyl succinate, magnesium stearate and magnesium aluminum silicate had the best anti-flocculation effect, followed byaluminum starch octenyl succinate. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Reviews

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The review of influencing factors of dark yellow skin in Chinese women ZHU Wen-yi,ZHA Pei-na,QIU Xian-rong,MENG Hong 2020, 50 (7):  481-487.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.07.009 Abstract ( 649 )   HTML ( 27 )   PDF (839KB) ( 767 )   Dark yellow skin is one of the skin problems that Chinese women concern today and it is also one of the research and development hotspots in the cosmetics and food industry. By searching domestic and foreign literatures, this article reviews the factors that affect the skin darkness and yellowness, including the formation and distribution of melanin, the influence of cytokines on melanocytes, and the mechanism of skin dark yellowness caused by blood microcirculation and oxidized protein. It provides guidance for the research and development of whitening products. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress on toxicology and risk assessment of mineral oil in cosmetics HUANG Xiang-lu,XING Shu-xia,LUO Fei-ya,SUN Lei 2020, 50 (7):  488-495.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.07.010 Abstract ( 697 )   HTML ( 21 )   PDF (812KB) ( 768 )   Mineral oil is a kind of hydrocarbon mixture formed by refining after liquefaction of petroleum crude oil and/or coal, natural gas or biomass products, which is divided into two main types, mineral oil saturated hydrocarbons （MOSH） and mineral oil aromatic hydrocarbons （MOAH） . Mineral oil is a common cosmetic raw material and its safety risk has been widely concerned. The classification, application, toxicology and risk assessment of mineral oils in cosmetics were briefly reviewed, so as to provide reference for the follow-up research. It was also suggested to continuously track the safety assessment and legislation formulation of mineral oil in cosmetics in other countries or regions, monitor the quality of cosmetics products using mineral oil raw materials in the market of China, and carry out the revision of management limits when necessary to ensure the safety of consumer cosmetics. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Analytical methods and testing

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Simultaneous determination of 94 kinds of illegally added compounds in cosmetics by ultra performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry WANG Tong-zhen,ZHENG Yu-li,LIANG Hai-yun,KE Li-qun,CAO Wei-qiang 2020, 50 (7):  496-503.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.07.011 Abstract ( 381 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (800KB) ( 345 )   A method for simultaneous determination of 94 kinds of illegally added compounds in cosmetics by ultra performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry （UPLC-MS/MS） was established. The cosmetic samples were extracted with the mixed solvent of 70% acetonitrile-water under ultrasonic assistance. Then the components in the purified extract were separated by CORTECS?UPLC?C18 column （2.1 mm×100 mm, 1.6 μm） with 0.1% formic acid/acetonitrile solution-0.1% formic acid and 5 mmol/L ammonium acetate as mobile phase, and then detected by UPLC-MS/MS. The method showed that good linearity was obtained with correlation coefficients higher than 0.995. The range of the limit of quantitation for this method was 0.025-0.1 μg/g. The spiked recovery was in the range of 51.1%-129.3%, and the RSD was 1.8%-19.0%. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Determination of four synthetic phenolic antioxidants in cosmetics by cloud point extraction-high performance liquid chromatography CHEN Miao,LI Li-xian,KONG Xiang-ye,GAO Ying,YANG Ya-ling 2020, 50 (7):  504-508.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.07.012 Abstract ( 438 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (1144KB) ( 568 )   A high performance liquid chromatography （HPLC） method was developed for the simultaneous determination of 4 synthetic phenolic antioxidants （SPAs） in cosmetics, including propyl gallate, tertiary butyl hydroquinone, butylated hydroxyanisole, and butylated hydroxytoluene. The samples were extracted by ultrasound-assisted cloud point extraction （CPE） with PEG-12 dimethylsiloxane （DC-193） as the extraction solvent. Fatty acid was added to decrease the cloud point of DC-193. When the volume fraction of nonanoic acid was 10%, it was the best in terms of cloud point, phase separation speed and extraction rate. Then multi-response surface method was used to optimize CPE. The optimum conditions of CPE were: φ （DC-193） of 2.5%, ultrasound time of 30 min, equilibrium temperature at 67 ℃, and equilibrium time of 57 min. The external standard method was used for quantification. The results show that the linear correlation coefficients of the 4 SPAs were all greater than 0.99. The average recoveries at three spiked levels were in the range of 84%-91% with RSDs of 1.2%-2.3%. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics