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    22 March 2019, Volume 49 Issue 3 Previous Issue    Next Issue
    Basic research
    Synthesis and properties of quaternary ammonium Gemini surfactants with hydroxyl in headgroups
    Ya SUN,Hua PAN,Fu HAN,Ya-wen ZHOU,Bao-cai XU
    2019, 49 (3):  135-140.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.03.001
    Abstract ( 426 )   HTML ( 94 )   PDF (1136KB) ( 458 )  

    A series of quaternary ammonium Gemini surfactants with hydroxyl in headgroups, butylene-1,4-bis[di(2-hydroxyethyl)alkylammonium]dibromide (abbreviated as m-4-m(OH), where m=8, 10, 12, 14) were synthesized by two-step reactions with bromoalkane, diethanolamine and 1,4-dibromobutane. The structure of intermediate and final products were characterized by 1H NMR and mass spectrometry (MS). The surface tension (γcmc) and critical micelle concentration (cmc) of m-4-m(OH) in aqueous solution were determined by the surface tension and conductivity measurements. The emulsifying and foaming properties of m-4-m(OH) in aqueous solution were determined. It is shown that the aggregation of these Gemini surfactants are all spontaneous and the tendency of aggregation is increased with the alkyl chain length. The 14-4-14(OH) shows the lowest cmc (0.48 mmol/L) and γcmc (33.6 mN/m) among these Geminis. The cmc and γcmc of these surfactants in aqueous solution are significantly decreased due to the introduction of hydroxyethyl in the headgroup. The emulsifying property of m-4-m(OH) is better with the longer alkyl chain. The foaming property undergoes a maximum with increasing alkyl chain length.

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    Lecture of science and technology
    Self-assembly of surfactants controlled by weak interactions(Ⅲ) Responsive surfactants
    Yang YU,Li-qiang ZHENG,Ji-chao SUN
    2019, 49 (3):  141-149.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.03.002
    Abstract ( 519 )   HTML ( 17 )   PDF (1773KB) ( 499 )  

    Natural or synthetic amphiphiles such as surfactants can self-assemble to form multi-scale aggregate structures such as micelles, vesicles, liquid crystals, and fibers. The introduction of functional groups into surfactants can regulate the aggregation mode of surfactants with the help of changes in the external environment (such as light, temperature, pH, CO2, magnetism, etc.). In this paper, the category and structure of responsive surfactants are introduced, as well as the relationship between environmental stimuli and their responsive properties.

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    Development and application
    Preparation and defoaming performance of phenyl hydrogen-containing silicone oil co-modified with polyether and fluorine-containing ester
    Rui GUO,Shuang HAN,Yao ZHANG,Ning WANG,Wan-wan GAO
    2019, 49 (3):  150-155.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.03.003
    Abstract ( 410 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (1229KB) ( 418 )  

    10-Undecenoic acid tetrafluoropropyl ester (UATE), allyl polyether (F-6) and phenyl hydrogen-containing silicone oil were used as raw materials. Chloroplatinic acid was used as catalyst. The phenyl hydrogen-containing silicone oil co-modified with polyether and fluorine-containing ester (UAPFPS) was synthesized via hydrosilylation. The structure of UAPFPS was characterized by FT-IR and 1H NMR. The optimum parameters were obtained by single factor experiment: the reaction temperature was 110 ℃; the reaction time was 5.5 h; n(Si-H) :n(C=C)=1:1.2; n(F-6) :n(UATE)=1:1; the amount of catalyst is 20 μg/g (relative to each gram of reactant). Under this condition, the conversion of Si-H bonds was 95.30%. A modified silicone defoamer was prepared by compounding UAPFPS, silicone paste, emulsifiers and thickener. The results of performance test show that the defoamer has good defoaming properties, foam inhibition and stability.

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    Preparation and properties of a sulfosuccinate
    Fu-yi LI,Zan GE,Li-wen SHI,Xue-bin MAO,Xiao-ying LEI,Kai ZHONG
    2019, 49 (3):  156-161.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.03.004
    Abstract ( 513 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (1417KB) ( 865 )  

    An esterification product was formed by reacting lauric acid with polyethylene glycol-400. The maleation of this ester was performed and the product was then sulfonated with sodium sulfite to form the disodium polyethylene glycol fatty acid ester sulfosuccinate. The structure of the product was characterized by FT-IR. The emulsion particle size, surface tension, contact angle, foaming power and antibacterial property were also tested. The microscopic state and morphology of leather before and after fat liquoring were compared by SEM, and the mechanical properties of leather were also studied. The results show that the prepared polyethylene glycol fatty acid ester sulfosuccinate disodium salt has an emulsion particle size of 4.77 μm, Zeta potential of 97.26 mV, foam volume of 646 mL, critical micelle concentration (cmc) of 8.59×10 -4 mol/L, and contact angle of 63.1°. It is sensitive to Aspergillus niger, Pseudomonas aeruginosa and Staphylococcus aureus, and the minimum inhibitory concentrations (MIC) are 15, 20 and 15 g/L, respectively. The SEM results show that the fiber bundle of the leather is finer and the fiber spacing becomes larger after fat liquoring. The tensile strength of leather is increased from 22.07 MPa to 28.24 MPa, and the elongation at break is decreased from 64.7% to 36.4%.

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    Study on performance of modified oil ethoxylates and peregal blend system
    Yong ZHANG,Jing-jie ZHOU,Yong-qiang SUN,jin-yuan SUN,Hui-bin LIANG,Hua-ping WU
    2019, 49 (3):  162-166.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.03.005
    Abstract ( 467 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (1041KB) ( 746 )  

    Through the tests of water solubility, freezing point, wetting, emulsification, decontamination and foam properties, the performance of the binary blend system of non-ionic surfactant modified SOE-N-60 with peregal O-25 and peregal O-20 respectively were estimated. The results show that the binary compound system of SOE-N-60 with a total mass fraction of 70% and peregal at 25 ℃ is uniform and transparent and the freezing points of the products are all below 10 ℃, when the mass ratio of SOE-N-60 to peregal O-25 is greater than 5:5 and the mass ratio of SOE-N-60 to peregal O-20 is greater than 4:6. The decontamination performance and liquid paraffin emulsifying performance of the compound products exhibit a certain synergistic effect. The foaming properties of the compound products are slightly higher than the single SOE-N-60. Therefore, the compound products are suitable for the development of low temperature and low foam concentrated liquid detergent.

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    Study on preparation and stability of acrylic resin based waterborne pigment marker ink
    Xian-ni WEN,Li-wei WANG,Wei DENG,Fei JIANG,Heng-chang GUO
    2019, 49 (3):  167-173.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.03.006
    Abstract ( 395 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (1270KB) ( 583 )  

    Surfactants and co-solvents were optimized by testing contact angle and surface tension, and adhesion promoters were selected by testing ink adhesion. The aqueous ink composed of additives such as pigment paste, acrylic resin, surfactant, and adhesion promoter. The resin and the resin-adhesion promoter were characterized by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) and thermogravimetric analysis (TG). The changes of viscosity, microscopic property, pH, particle size of D50, surface tension and other properties of the ink before and after storage at high and low temperatures were tested. Finally, the writing effect of the optimized ink was tested. The results show that the surfactant OP-10 has the most obvious effect on reducing the surface tension in the ink system, and ethanol has the best wettability. The effect of the adhesion promoter is related to its molecular structure and addition amount. However, excessive adhesion promoters could easily lead to the decline of ink stability, which is mainly manifested in the changes of microscopic property, viscosity and particle size. Here we develop a waterborne marker ink which is stable and has excellent adhesion and good writing effect after optimizing the formula.

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    Synthesis of fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether with narrow distribution
    Jing-cheng TIAN,Yong-qiang SUN,Jian-guo GUO
    2019, 49 (3):  174-177.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.03.007
    Abstract ( 691 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (904KB) ( 471 )  

    KOH and a homogeneous catalyst were respectively used in the syntheses of fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether (AEO) with two degrees of polymerization of ethylene oxide (EO). The theoretical EO degrees was caculated with EO consumption. The product composition was analysed by gas chromatography. The EO distribution of these two kinds of AEO and effects of EO degrees on molecular weight distribution were studied. The results show that in the gas chromatogram of narrow-distribution AEO, the peak area of C12 (EO)7 is very small and the chromatographic peak of C14(EO)7 is barely observable. As to conventional AEO and narrow-distribution AEO, the mass fraction of free fatty alcohol in AEO2 is lower than in AEO1.85, and the total mass fraction of components with EO degrees 1~4 is slightly higher in AEO2 than in AEO1.85. On the other hand, the mass fraction of free fatty alcohol and components with EO degrees above 4 are significantly lower in narrow-distribution AEO than in conventional AEO, while the mass fraction of components with EO degrees 1~4 are much higher in narrow-distribution AEO than in conventional AEO. The components of narrow-distribution AEO show Poisson distribution, indicative of an obvious characteristic of narrow distribution.

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    Study on stability of β-arbutin as a cosmetic whitening ingredient
    Xiu-fang YAN,Xin ZHANG,Qian-wen FAN
    2019, 49 (3):  178-182.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.03.008
    Abstract ( 689 )   HTML ( 24 )   PDF (870KB) ( 493 )  

    The β-arbutin degradation product hydroquinone was detected by high performance liquid chromatography to investigate the effects of temperature, content, pH, standing time, Staphylococcus epidermidis and epidermal cells on the stability of β-arbutin. Results show that β-arbutin aqueous solution remains relatively stable under pH of 5 and temperature of 40 ℃, and β-arbutin becomes unstable under pH of 3. The longer the standing time is, the more hydroquinone is produced by the decomposition of β-arbutin. At the same time, it is found that Staphylococcus epidermidis cultured in different content of β-arbutin for 24 h, and β-arbutin does not decompose into hydroquinone, indicating that Staphylococcus epidermidis does not lead to the decomposition of β-arbutin. The epidermal cells were cultured in the medium containing different content of β-arbutin for 24 h, and hydroquinone was generated, indicating that the epidermal cells promote the decomposition of β-arbutin. Further studies show that β-arbutin materials are very stable at different temperatures and humidity. But adding vitamin C and pearl powder into β-arbutin can redu ce the stability of β-arbutin.

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    Research on the preparation of “phellodendron beauty salt” and its antioxidative and antibacterial properties
    Tian-cheng GAO,Quan SUN,Na TANG,Ya-ru YANG
    2019, 49 (3):  183-186.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.03.009
    Abstract ( 363 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (904KB) ( 349 )  

    The solar salt and the natural herbal extract from Cortex phellodendri were mixed with various ratios to prepare “phellodendron beauty salt”. Physical and chemical parameters, contents of polyphenols and flavonoids, antioxidative and antibacterial properties of the phellodendron beauty salt were determined. The results show that when the mass fraction of phellodendron bark in the phellodendron beauty salt is 10%, the concentrations of phellodendron beauty salt for 50% inhibition (IC50) against the DPPH free radicals (i.e. scavenging rate of 50%), tyrosinase, Staphylococcus aureus and E. coli are 124.83, 124.83, 131.58 and 159.69 g/L respectively. This study provides a reference to multi-angle development and utilization of plant salt.

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    Study on antibacterial activity of plant essential oils and its application in cosmetics
    Yu-hao GUI,Xiao MENG,Qing-sheng CHEN,Sheng-zhao GONG
    2019, 49 (3):  187-192.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.03.010
    Abstract ( 664 )   HTML ( 30 )   PDF (731KB) ( 1042 )  

    Through bacteriostatic tests of six essential oils, it is found that cinnamon essential oil, rose essential oil and sweet orange essential oil have better antibacterial activity, and the cinnamon essential oil which contains high content of aldehyde has the best antibacterial effect. The effect of adding cinnamon oil on the antiseptic system in the cream was studied. The results show that the amount of preservative should be added to 0.25% in the cream without adding cinnamon oil to reach better inhibition effect on bacteria and fungi. In the cream with 0.01% cinnamon essential oil added, the amount of preservative can be adjusted to bacteria and fungi by adding 0.1%. The study demonstrates that the addition of cinnamon essential oil in cosmetics can decrease the dosage of preservatives. Through skin irritation test, it is found that the L/D value of the cream with 0.01% cinnamon essential oil and 0.15% preservative is 112.26, while that of cream with 0.25% preservative is 58.53. This indicates that adding cinnamon essential oil in cosmetics can reduce the amount of preservative and the irritation of cosmetics. However, when the amount of preservatives used is 0.15%, the L/D value of the cream to which the cinnamon essential oil was added is slightly lower than that of the unadded cream, illustrating that the cinnamon essential oil itself is slight irritating.

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    Reviews
    Research progress on the application of main active components from different parts of ginseng in skin care
    Chen-yang XIONG,Ming-liang XU,Fan YI,Hong MENG,Yin-mao DONG
    2019, 49 (3):  193-198.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.03.011
    Abstract ( 533 )   HTML ( 27 )   PDF (755KB) ( 695 )  

    The chemical composition, main active ingredients, pharmacological effects of different parts of ginseng and their role in beauty and skin care were introduced. Finally, the development direction of ginseng as a raw material for cosmetics was prospected.

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    Analytical methods and testing
    Determination of aloin in cosmetics and its stability
    Qiang ZHANG,Jun CUI,Hua GU,Xiao-feng YU,Xiao-feng SHAN,Ge ZHU
    2019, 49 (3):  199-202.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.03.012
    Abstract ( 415 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (907KB) ( 401 )  

    The effects of temperature, pH, extraction solvent and metallic ions on the stability of aloin in aloe extract were investigated by HPLC method. The content of aloin and its decomposition products in aloe cosmetics was determined by establishing a calibration curve. The samples were ultrasonically extracted by 5 mL 90% methanol solution at 30 ℃ for 20 minutes, separated on a C18 column by gradient elution using methanol, acetonitrile and 0.05% phosphoric acid as the mobile phases. Then 7 samples of cosmetics labeled aloe components were randomly selected for testing at 356 nm. The results show that one of the seven selected samples of aloe cosmetics contained aloe-emodin and chrysophanol, and one toner contained chrysophanol. And aloin or aloin degradation products were not detected in the rest.

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    Determination of 10 phthalate esters in cosmetics for children by HPLC
    Yong-chao YANG,Jing YAN,Hao-li-bao ZHAO,Xue-yang LI,Yuan ZHANG,Lei ZHOU
    2019, 49 (3):  203-208.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.03.013
    Abstract ( 385 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF (939KB) ( 377 )  

    A sensitive and rapid method was developed for the determination of 10 phthalate esters (PAEs) in children’s cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). The analytes were tested with an Acclaim TM 120-C18 reversed-phase column (4.6 mm×250 mm, 5 μm) under the gradient elution of methanol, acetonitrile and water, and subsequently detected by Diode Array Detector (DAD) at 280 nm. The flow rate was set at 1.0 mL/min. The results show that the ten compounds show good linearity within the concentration range of 1-100 mg/L. The corresponding linear correlation coefficients are all equal to or greater than 0.999 6. And the limits of detection and quantification (LOD and LOQ) located at the range of 0.2-5.0 mg/L and 0.5- 10.0 mg/L, respectively. Recovery experiments were then carried out with 8 cosmetic samples (lotion, cream and oily cosmetics). The average recoveries are between 89.2% and 106.1% with relative standard deviations <5%. Results show that it is a simple and accurate method with low LOD which can serve for cosmetics supervision in determination of the PAEs. One of the eight cosmetics was verified as a positive sample, and three methods were applied to confirm this result.

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