Table of Content

22 October 2023, Volume 53 Issue 10 Previous Issue    Next Issue

Basic research

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Effect of water-soluble polymer on the properties of liquid crystal emulsions Kong Xiangling, Lan Yunping, Liu Xiaochun, Wang Shiqiong, Zheng Yifeng, Chen Laicheng, He Qiuxing 2023, 53 (10):  1115-1124.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.001 Abstract ( 181 )   HTML ( 40 )   PDF (3183KB) ( 203 )   The effect of four water-soluble polymers including sodium alginate, xanthan gum, carbopol 940, and sodium polyacrylate in the liquid crystal emulsions have been described in this work, through the experiments including stability tests, thermal gravimetric analysis, and rheology. The results show that the addition of carbopol 940 has no effect on the liquid crystal structure and particle size, but performs the best in centrifugation stability. In addition, xanthan gum helps the emulsion to preserve at room temperature, with the largest proportion of bound water and liquid crystal content. The rheological tests show that the four liquid crystal emulsions are non-Newtonian liquids. Incorporation of carbopol 940 increases the viscosity, thixotropy loop area and viscoelasticity of the emulsion, as well as increases the ability of the liquid crystal structure to withstand external forces and not easy to deformate. In conclusion, this paper provides experimental basis for the application of water-soluble polymers in the formulation of liquid crystal emulsions. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Performance and application of high-temperature resistant carboxymethyl guar gum fracturing fluid Zhong Ju, Sarsenbekuly Bauyrzhan, Yin Xia, Kang Wanli 2023, 53 (10):  1125-1131.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.002 Abstract ( 121 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (1557KB) ( 199 )   The “Shan-2” in the western exploration area of Jidong Oilfield is mainly a tight gas reservoir with high temperature and poor porosity and permeability, in which the gas can only be produced by fracturing. Conventional guar gum fracturing fluid has poor high-temperature resistance and it is easy to cause secondary damage to the formation. To solve this problem, based on chelation mechanism, a kind of high-temperature resistant carboxymethyl guar gum fracturing fluid was developed. Its rapid thickening, viscoelasticity, high-temperature resistance, shear resistance and formation damage performance were studied in detail. The results showed that, the viscosity of this fracturing fluid could reach 51 mPa·s within 4 minutes. Its temperature resistance could reach 130-180 ℃. The viscosity of the gel breaking fluid was less than 1.5 mPa·s. Therefore, this fracturing fluid could meet the requirements for the target stratum. Finally, for some low-producing and low-efficiency wells in the field, the clean fracturing technology using the carboxymethyl guar gum developed had achieved clean fracturing with low damage. Old cracks were closed and new cracks were opened. The stimulated reservoir volume was increased. The output of low-producing wells had been increased by 3-5 times. This work might provide technical support for continuous and stable production in the western exploration area. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Lecture of science and technology

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New emulsion system and its application in cosmetics （II）Bigel system Niu Wenxia, Tang Jiayue, Shang Yazhuo 2023, 53 (10):  1132-1139.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.003 Abstract ( 252 )   HTML ( 17 )   PDF (1597KB) ( 221 )   Bigel system is a unique emulsion system, in which a liquid in gel form （organogel or hydrogel） is dispersed in another incompatible gel （hydrogel or organogel） without adding （or a small amount of） surfactant. Bigel system has the dual advantages of both hydrogel and organogel, which can not only deliver hydrophilic and lipophilic active agents simultaneously, but also show better performance than either of the single gel. In addition, the bigel system does not contain （or a small amount of） surfactant, which will not cause the stimulation and dehydration of sensitive skin. The bigel system has a broad application prospect in the field of cosmetics, biomedicine, etc. In this paper, the gel and bigel systems are firstly introduced and then the factors of affecting the properties of bigel system including gel agent, the ratio of organogel to hydrogel, oil properties and preparation process, etc. are summarized. Furthermore, the skin safety, stability, moisture retention, sustained-release property and skin sense of bigel system are expatiated. On this basis, the study on the application of bigel system in cosmetics is expounded. Finally, the limitations of the application of bigel system in the field of cosmetics are put forward and personal views on the problems to be solved are proposed, which can provide not only basic information for the development and application of bigel products with excellent performance but also reference for the development direction of bigel system. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Development and application

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Effects of shale oil composition on the properties of oil-water interface Shi Yuanyuan, He Kai, Wu Wenzhong 2023, 53 (10):  1140-1146.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.004 Abstract ( 90 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (1325KB) ( 82 )   The influence of shale oil components on the properties of oil-water interface was discussed. The properties of oil-water interface play an important role in the recovery and migration of hydrocarbons in unconventional reservoirs. The effects of shale oil composition on the properties of oil-water interface were investigated, including the changes of saturates, aromatics, resins, asphaltenes and waxes. The oil-water interfacial tension and interfacial modulus under different mass fractions of components were systematically evaluated, and the correlation between shale oil composition and interfacial properties was established. The results showed that the presence of asphaltene and resin significantly affected the oil-water interfacial properties, resulting in a decrease in interfacial tension. The asphaltene and resin components with mass fraction of 1%, respectively, could reduce the equilibrium interfacial tension to 22.48 mN/m and 19.42 mN/m, respectively. Asphaltene played a major role in the stabilization of the interfacial film, and the improvement of interfacial tension and interfacial modulus was different at different resin/asphaltene （R/A） content. The wax component had no ability to reduce the interfacial tension, but it had synergistic effect with the resin-asphaltene to improve the stability of interfacial film and reduced the competitive adsorption at high resin/asphaltene （R/A） ratio. When R/A was 10, the equilibrium interfacial tension of the resin/asphaltene-wax was 17.06 mN/m, the viscous modulus was 6.42 mN/m, the elastic modulus was 36.98 mN/m, and the expansion modulus was 37.61 mN/m. These findings could provide valuable insights into the complex relationship between shale oil composition and oil-water interface properties, which could help to develop more effective technologies of enhanced oil recovery （EOR） and better understand multiphase flow behavior in unconventional reservoirs. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation and properties of natural colored lipstick based on oleogels Wang Run, Gong Yuxin, Zhang Ruoning, Mao Like 2023, 53 (10):  1147-1155.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.005 Abstract ( 120 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF (1825KB) ( 226 )   The effects of mass fraction of emulsifier on the physicochemical properties of beeswax oleogel lipstick were investigated. To prepare the oleogel loaded with natural pigment, corn oil was selected as the solvent, beeswax was used as the gelling agent, glycerin monostearate （GMS） with different mass fractions was added as the emulsifier, and β-carotene was used as the representative functional factor. The relationships between the crystal morphology, rheology, texture and thermodynamic properties of the oleogel and the encapsulation and stability of the pigment were investigated, and the application performance as a lipstick was analyzed. It was found that, with increasing mass fraction of GMS, the oleogel had higher storage modulus （G′）, higher loss modulus （G″） and higher yield stress. The oleogels were dominated by β′ crystal form, and the oleogel containing 4% GMS had the largest crystal plane spacing, the largest crystal grain size and the largest crystallinity. The thixotropic recovery of the oleogel with 4% GMS was 17.36%, and it had the highest encapsulation rate （65.51%） and stability （retention of 82.20% after 12 h of light） for β-carotene. The lipstick with 4% GMS mass fraction had good overall performance. The results of this work had wide applicability and were of guiding significance for the development of natural lipstick products. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Study on the influence mechanisms of polymers and solid particles on the stability of crude oil emulsion Yang Chao, Tong Zhiming, Wang Zhansheng, Chen Wu 2023, 53 (10):  1156-1165.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.006 Abstract ( 89 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (1668KB) ( 153 )   To clarify the reasons why the backflow residue of oilfield operation affects the dehydration of produced crude oil, the mechanisms for single polymers, single solid particles and the coexistence of a polymer and particles affecting the stability of crude oil emulsion were studied, in which NPAM and guar gum, which are the most common backflow residues, were taken as the representatives of polymers, and quartz sand as the representative of solid particles. The results showed that single polymers could influence the stability of the emulsion. When the mass concentration of the polymer was increased to 1 000 mg/L, the dehydration rate of the emulsion was decreased to 0%, and the peak of particle size distribution was less than 10 μm. The viscosity was significantly increased, i.e., the viscosity of the emulsion containing guar gum was increased to 3.80 times, and the viscosity of the emulsion containing NPAM was increased to 2.82 times. The equilibrium interfacial tension was decreased, the viscoelasticity of the oil-water interface was increased, and the elastic modulus was 4-5 times that of the viscous modulus. In this case, the boundary film was mainly elastic, the strength of the boundary film was increased, and thus the stability of the emulsion was increased. The influence of single solid particles on the emulsion was that, when the solid content was increased to 1%, the dehydration rate of the emulsion was decreased by 9.90%, the viscosity was increased by 46.36%, and the interfacial tension between oil and water was decreased by approximately 9.10%. The coexistence of a polymer and solid particles had superposition effect on the stability of the emulsion. The increase of the polymer and solid particles in emulsion would increase the difficulty of dehydration and the stability of the emulsion. When the solid particle content was fixed at 1% and the polymer concentration was increased, the dehydration rate was decreased from 54.50% to 0%, the viscosity was increased to 3.58 times, and the peak of particle size distribution was significantly decreased. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Application of amino acid derivative reactivity assay for skin sensitization prediction of cosmetics Ding Shixuan, Li Xiaolin, Chen Yu, Yu Jie 2023, 53 (10):  1166-1172.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.007 Abstract ( 119 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (1128KB) ( 86 )   A laboratory method of amino acid derivative reactivity assay （ADRA） was established and validated based on the OECD guideline. Meanwhile, the possibility of applying ADRA to predict skin sensitization in cosmetic products was also evaluated. According to the guidance of OECD 442C, test substances （including chemicals and toners） were incubated with cysteine and lysine derivatives at a ratio of 50∶1, respectively, in the dark for 24 h. The amino acid derivatives consumptions were analyzed by high performance liquid chromatography （HPLC）. The percent depletion was calculated, and each chemical was classified into sensitizers and non-sensitizers using the ADRA prediction model. The same test substances were applied to an ADRA commercial kit. The results show that, 13 chemicals are correctly classified by ADRA as sensitizers or non-sensitizers. The results obtained in the lab are consistent with LLNA data, OECD TG 442C and the results of the commercial kit. Four toners are identified by ADRA as sensitizers and one as non-sensitizer. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Evaluation of shear resistance of multi-crosslinked hydrogel system Pu Cao, Zhu Shijie, Liu Lijuan, Wang Shikai, Xu Jiangen, Liu Zhezhi 2023, 53 (10):  1173-1179.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.008 Abstract ( 96 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (1337KB) ( 69 )   The strong shear degradation in the injection process of gel profile control and flooding system has seriously hindered the effectiveness of construction application. It is very important to improve the shear resistance of gel profile control and flooding system and achieve high-efficiency deep profile control and flooding. The multi-crosslinked hydrogel systems in which hydrophobically associating polymer （DHAP） and partially hydrolyzed polyacrylamide （HPAM） were used as the main agents were studied in the aspects of shear resistance, gel forming performance, aging stability, plugging ability and the effect of profile control and flooding. The results showed that the viscosity loss of DHAP was only 4% after being sheared by a blast hole with an injection rate of 175 mL/min, and high strength of 15 Pa·s was still obtained after crosslinking and gelling, and the plugging rate in porous media could reach 91%. In the parallel core displacement experiment, effective profile control and flooding could be achieved, the sweep efficiency of low-permeability cores was expanded, and the oil recovery was improved by 10% compared with the HPAM-based system. By appropriately reducing the covalent crosslinking density, the hydrogel system of moderate covalent crosslinking+non-covalent crosslinking could exhibit good ability of profile control and flooding in porous media. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Study on the skincare efficacy and safety evaluation of Rhodiola rosea extract Zhou Yan, Han Ruina 2023, 53 (10):  1180-1185.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.009 Abstract ( 190 )   HTML ( 20 )   PDF (1229KB) ( 241 )   This paper aimed to study the skincare efficacy and safety of Rhodiola rosea extract. The antioxidant effect of Rhodiola rosea extract was verified through DPPH free radical scavenging experiment. The results show that within a certain concentration range, Rhodiola rosea extract can effectively eliminate DPPH free radicals and reactive oxygen species, which plays a protective role on the cells damaged by oxidation, and has a certain antioxidant effect. The effect of Rhodiola rosea extract on maintaining skin elasticity was verified through the inhibition rate of elastase, and Rhodiola rosea extract can effectively inhibit elastase activity. The inhibitory effect of Rhodiola rosea extract on melanogenesis was verified through the inhibition rate of tyrosinase activity and the elimination rate of melanin in mouse melanoma cells. Rhodiola rosea extract can significantly inhibit tyrosinase activity, delay melanogenesis, and has potential whitening effects. The safety of Rhodiola rosea extract was verified through a repeated open application test on human skin. The results show that no adverse skin reactions occurred after 48 hours, indicating that within a certain concentration range, Rhodiola rosea extract has no irritating effect on human skin. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Reviews

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Current status of standards and research progress of detection methods of isothiazolinone preservatives He Xiaoling, Ma Yan, Deng Xing, Lu Jiali, Wu Rongrong, Long Mei 2023, 53 (10):  1186-1193.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.010 Abstract ( 124 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (1013KB) ( 155 )   Isothiazolinone preservatives are broad-spectrum, high-efficiency and environmentally friendly, which have been widely used in cosmetics, toys, coatings and other fields. However, there are more and more reports at home and abroad about allergic reactions, contact dermatitis, and even chemical skin burns caused by isothiazolinone preservatives, which has aroused concerns in society. It is of great significance to pay attention to the relevant regulations and standards of isothiazolinone preservatives and select accurate and efficient analytical methods for their safety risk assessments. Herein, a comprehensive overview on the limits of content of isothiazolinone preservatives in European Union and China was made, as well as the domestic situation of detection standards. The pretreatment techniques, including accelerated solvent extraction, solid-phase extraction, and QuEChERS, were briefly reviewed. The applications of gas chromatography, gas chromatography-mass spectrometry, liquid chromatography, and liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry for isothiazolinone preservatives were reviewed. Finally, the development direction of detection techniques for isothiazolinone preservatives in different products was prospected, in order to provide reference to related researchers and improve the relevant standard system. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Progress in metabolic mechanism and research methods of melanin production Yang Xiaoyu, Liu Jinjun, Liu Lei, He Congfen, Bi Yongxian, Li Hao 2023, 53 (10):  1194-1203.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.011 Abstract ( 319 )   HTML ( 22 )   PDF (1270KB) ( 227 )   With the development of the times, the market demand of whitening agent is increasing day by day, which has a high development value. Skin color mainly depends on the proportion of true melanin and brown melanin, as well as the number, size, distribution and degree of melanization of melanosomes, so the development of whitening active substances mainly depends on the process of melanin production. Based on this, this paper focuses on the literature reports in the past few years, summarizes and discusses the latest progress in the regulation process of melanin production in five steps, and summarizes the key regulation signal pathways, important markers and their detection methods from the regulation mechanism. It provides a theoretical basis for the development of whitening products from a more comprehensive and specific perspective. Finally, with reference to the action mechanism of different stages of melanogenesis, the different ways and current research progress of the development of whitening active components are summarized. The combined use of whitening active ingredients can play a greater whitening effect to a certain extent, and it has gradually become the development trend of whitening agents. This paper can provide a reference for melanin production through the regulation of different stages of melanin, and provide a more scientific research and development direction for whitening products. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Analysis on registration of imported sunscreen cosmetics in China in 2017—2021 Ta Na, Yu Zhenxi, Gao Jiamin, Zhang Fenglan, Wang Gangli 2023, 53 (10):  1204-1210.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.012 Abstract ( 122 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (1144KB) ( 156 )   By inquiring the information on the approval documents for cosmetics published on the website of CFDA, the number of approval documents, country of origin, ultraviolet defense ability, dosage form, and sunscreen agents for the import of sunscreen cosmetics in China from 2017 to 2021 were summarized and analyzed. The results showed that 3 057 approval documents for imported sunscreen cosmetics were issued in China during the past five years from 2017 to 2021, and South Korea was the largest country of origin of imported sunscreen cosmetics; in terms of ultraviolet defense ability, SPF value did not significantly increase, and the proportion of products with high PFA values was significantly increased; the main dosage form of imported sunscreen cosmetics was cream, while spray had a gradually increasing trend; the sunscreen agent with the highest frequency of use in the product formulas was ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate with a relatively high safety. Based on the analysis results above, further analysis was made combined with literature reports, regulatory supervision and social hotspots, which was helpful to fully understand the situation of imported sunscreen cosmetics in China and provide useful references for the market supervision of cosmetics in China and the research and development of cosmetics for domestic enterprises. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress on the application of main active ingredients of pomegranate peel in cosmetics Song Zixin, Sun Qianru, Fang Jiaxuan, Wang Changtao, Li Meng, Wang Dongdong 2023, 53 (10):  1211-1219.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.013 Abstract ( 208 )   HTML ( 20 )   PDF (1338KB) ( 147 )   In recent years, as people pay more attention to the safety of cosmetics, the application of plant extracts in cosmetics has become more and more extensive. Pomegranate peel, as a traditional Chinese herbal medicine, it has high security. Pomegranate peel is rich in tannins, flavonoids, polysaccharides, organic acids and other bioactive components, reflecting its good application value in cosmetics. It has many physiological and pharmacological activities, such as anti-oxidation, anti-bacterial, antimutagenic, anti-virus and anti-cancer. Through literature research, pomegranate peel extract is widely used in cosmetics with anti-wrinkle, anti-corrosion, whitening, sunscreen and other effects. However, studies have shown that pomegranate peel is slightly toxic, mainly because it contains alkaloids. The safety of pomegranate peel extract in cosmetics should be further studied. At present, there are few studies on the application of pomegranate peel extract in cosmetics instead of traditional preservatives, and its practical application as a preservative needs to be further studied. In addition, data on human efficacy evaluation of pomegranate peel extract in cosmetics with whitening and sunscreen effects are also scarce. Therefore, this paper summarizes and discusses the efficacy study and main active ingredients in pomegranate peel, and finally discusses the application status and future prospects of pomegranate peel in cosmetics. This paper is hoped to provide reference for the application of pomegranate peel extract in functional cosmetics. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research and development of skin anti-aging and related cosmetics based on epigenetics Zhong Meiying, Zhang Hao, Huang Qin, Tang Wendi, Lan Ailing 2023, 53 (10):  1220-1226.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.014 Abstract ( 158 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (972KB) ( 143 )   Epigenetics is a branch of genetics that refers to the changes in gene or protein expression that do not involve changes in DNA sequence and can be stably transmitted during development and cell proliferation. Epigenetics is closely related to human skin aging, which is manifested as the change of human skin epigenetic modification. Through the research and utilization of the reversible characteristics of epigenetic modification, the research of epigenetics can be applied to the field of skin anti-aging and anti-aging related cosmetics. This paper summarizes the main contents of epigenetics in the research and application of skin anti-aging and cosmetics. Through the epigenetic modification manifestations and reversal modes of DNA methylation, including histone modification and microRNA regulation in extracellular matrix regulation, cell proliferation and differentiation regulation, melanin synthesis or metabolism regulation, and antioxidant stress capacity regulation, the various mechanisms of epigenetics in skin anti-aging are shown. It also explains the cause and characterization of skin aging through the changes of epigenetic modification during human aging, providing scientific basis for the research and development of anti-aging cosmetics. This paper reviews the relationship and manifestations of multiple mechanisms of action related to epigenetics and skin anti-aging, providing a theoretical basis for skin aging research and looking forward to the development of anti-aging related cosmetics in the future. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Analytical methods and testing

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Analysis of bacterial diversity in probiotic toothpaste based on amplicon sequencing Wu Yuan, Liang Yuanyuan, Zhou Zhinan, Huang Tiantian, Xia Qiqi, Liu Pengpeng 2023, 53 (10):  1227-1232.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.015 Abstract ( 91 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (1412KB) ( 106 )   The active bacteria in 20 commercially available probiotic toothpastes were detected by conventional methods, and high-throughput sequencing of the V3 and V4 regions of 16S rDNA. The amplicon analysis was used for α Diversity and Microbial Community Structure analysis. Finally, based on the specific primers, the PCR method was used to detect Lactobacillus paracasei in 20 toothpastes. 1） The results show that the total bacterial count of 20 probiotic toothpastes is <10 CFU/g, and the total lactic acid bacteria is <10 CFU/g. 2） Through analyzing the amplicon PCR sequencing results, lactobacillus other than Lactobacillus casei are added to the toothpaste, 18 toothpastes add Lactobacillus fermentans, Lactobacillus acidophilus and Lactobacillus delbrueckii subspecies, 20 toothpastes add Lactobacillus plantarum, and 19 toothpastes add Lactobacillus reuteri. The sequencing diversity analysis show that the abundance of prokaryotic microorganisms and the diversity of colonies in the toothpaste are high. 3） The results of PCR and sequencing of toothpaste DNA extracts show that Lactobacillus paracasei is added to 20 toothpastes according to the label. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Determination of 13 chemical components in Koujie gargle by HPLC Wu Xiaoyan, Song Faxiang 2023, 53 (10):  1233-1240.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.016 Abstract ( 117 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (1108KB) ( 146 )   The study aimed to develop an high performance liquid chromatography （HPLC） method for the determination of neochlorogenic acid, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, luteolin-7-O-glucoside, 3,5-dicaffeoylquinic acid, 4,5-dicaffeoylquinic acid, luteolin, apigenin, loganin, sweroside, secoxyloganin; （R, S）-goitrin and clemastanin B in Koujie gargle. Separation was carried out using Waters Symmetry C18 （250 mm×4.6 mm, 5 μm） with mobile phase of acetonitrile-0.3% phosphoric acid in gradient elution. The detection wavelength was set at 348 nm, 240 nm and 224 nm. The flow rate was 1.0 mL/min, and the column temperature was 30 ℃. The results show that the linear relationship of 13 chemical components in Koujie gargle is good （r≥0.999 1）, the average recovery ranges from 96.92% to 100.11%, and the RSD ranges from 0.53% to 1.58%. The established HPLC wavelength switching method is accurate which can be used for the quality control of Koujie gargle. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics