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Table of Content

    22 May 2023, Volume 53 Issue 5 Previous Issue    Next Issue
    Basic research
    Application of chestnut shell pigment in hair dyes
    Zhu Ting, Shen Qiruonan, Xu Yujuan, Li Chunmei
    2023, 53 (5):  493-502.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.05.001
    Abstract ( 230 )   HTML ( 16 )   PDF (1926KB) ( 144 )  

    The toxicity evaluation of the prepared chestnut shell pigment hair dye was conducted by using acute percutaneous toxicity test and acute eye irritation/corrosion test in this study. The hair dyeing process of the chestnut shell pigments was optimized by single-factor experiments and was further analyzed for fading phenomena (washing and UV irradiation fading) of the dyed hair by chromatography, texturizing, scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). The results indicate that hair dyes made from chestnut shell pigments are practically non-toxic and non-irritating. The hair dyeing conditions after optimization of the chestnut shell pigment are as follow: chestnut shell pigment concentration of 0.15 g/mL, colorants pH of 8.5, FeCl3 addition amount of 10%, dyeing temperature of 45 ℃, and dyeing method of pre-mordant method. The maximum dE* value of the dyed hair after washing is only 6.348, and the maximum dE* values after UV (UVA and UVB) irradiation are 3.340 and 3.280, with no significant change in fading or in the tensile strength of the hair. SEM results show that there is no obvious warping of hair surface scales after washing and UV irradiation of the dyed hair, so the dye is not easily washed off from the hair. DSC results indicate that the enthalpy of denaturation of the dyed hair decrease gradually with the increase of washing temperature, so the increase of temperature will reduce the α-keratin content of the dyed hair. And the enthalpy of denaturation of the dyed hair after UV irradiation is not significantly different from that of the hair without UV irradiation, indicating that UV irradiation damage to α-keratin in dyed hair is less. This paper presents a comprehensive evaluation of the hair-dyeing performance of chestnut shell pigments, aiming to provide a corresponding theoretical basis and technical support for the high-value application of chestnut shell waste, which is more conducive to guide and promote the development of chestnut industry.

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    Lecture of science and technology
    Scientific foundations of hair and scalp care (Ⅴ)Hair photoaging and its protection
    Fan Jiayi, Ma Ling, Chen Timson, Chang Kuan, Wang Jing
    2023, 53 (5):  503-510.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.05.002
    Abstract ( 342 )   HTML ( 31 )   PDF (2322KB) ( 342 )  

    The concept of skin sunscreen has been deeply embedded in the hearts of consumers, but hair sunscreen is still a relatively new concept for Chinese consumers. Just like skin, UV and visible light radiation in daily life will also cause damage to hair, which is reflected in the degradation of hair substances (such as proteins, amino acids, lipids, melanin, etc.) at the molecular level. Hair damage will cause changes in its apparent properties, resulting in decreased hair grooming, increased roughness and friction, increased water absorption and swelling, enhanced surface hydrophilicity, decreased mechanical properties, decreased glossiness and other adverse phenomena. Therefore, it is very necessary to add functional ingredients in hair care products to prevent photoaging. In this paper, the process of hair photoaging and its substance changes are analyzed, and the hair problems caused by photoaging and the protective products for this problem are introduced.

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    Development and application
    Effects of surfactants on removing colored stains from textiles when using activated peroxide systems
    Fu Jiangpeng, Du Jinmei, Miao Dagang, Xiao Guowei, Jiang Yang, Xu Changhai
    2023, 53 (5):  511-516.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.05.003
    Abstract ( 172 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (1201KB) ( 261 )  

    Textiles are often contaminated by coloring matters in daily use. It is difficult to remove these colored stains by using traditional household washing detergents. Peroxides can be used as bleaching agents to remove these colored stains from textiles, however, at relatively high temperatures. Activated peroxide systems are established by adding so-called bleach activators that can react with hydrogen peroxide released from peroxides to generate more kinetically active bleaching species that can break down colored stains at lower temperatures. In this paper, N-[4-(triethylammoniomethyl)benzoyl]caprolactam chloride (TBCC) and tetraacetylethylenediamine (TAED) were used as bleach activators to establish activated peroxide systems in which sodium dodecylbenzenesulfonate (SDBS) and stearyltrimethylammoium chloride (STAC) were added. The formula was designed, aiming to remove colored stains from textiles at room temperature. Morin and coffee were used to simulate the colored stains on textiles. In near-neutral conditions at room temperature, it was found that surfactants themselves could not remove colored stains from textiles, but the ionic charges on these surfactants could interact with the activated peroxide systems and affect their performance on removing colored stains. The formula of activated peroxide system based on TBCC and SDBS was able to effectively remove colored stains from textiles at room temperature. This study might contribute to developing effective household washing formulations for cleaning textiles stained with colored substances.

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    Preparation of monoglyceride by glycerolysis of glyceryl tristearate catalyzed by Ce modified MgO
    Kong Lingniao, Hong Zheng, Fang Yinjun
    2023, 53 (5):  517-522.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.05.004
    Abstract ( 115 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (1113KB) ( 169 )  

    To improve the content of monoglycerides (MAGs) in the product, the preparation of MAGs by glycerolysis of triglyceride catalyzed by Ce modified MgO catalysts was studied. MgO support was prepared by hydrothermal method with magnesium oxide as raw material, and Ce modified MgO catalyst was prepared by constant-volume impregnation method with cerium nitrate and MgO support as raw materials. The orthogonal test was designed, in which reaction time, reaction temperature and catalyst dosage were optimized. The effect of Ce addition on the content of MAGs in crude products was also investigated. The structure of Ce modified MgO catalysts was analyzed by BET, XRD and CO2-TPD. The experimental results show that the reaction temperature has the highest significance level among the three selected factors affecting the content of MAGs. When the amount of Ce is 0.3%, catalyst dosage is 0.5% (of the total mass of glycerol and glyceryl tristearate), the molar ratio of glycerol to glyceryl tristearate is 2∶1, the reaction temperature is 220 ℃, and the reaction time is 2 h, the content of MAGs is 42.0%. The characterization results show that, the addition of Ce has little effect on the specific surface area, pore volume and pore size of the catalyst when the Ce content is less than 0.3%, but the catalyst will be more alkaline. When the Ce content is more than 0.5%, the specific surface area, pore volume, pore size and alkalinity of the catalyst are significantly decreased.

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    Process optimization and anti-aging, moisturizing and whitening effects of traditional Chinese medicine bi-directional fermentation broth
    Guo Fangyu, Han Tingting, Wang Xiaona, Chen Yurong, Wang Xiaomei, Yang Suzhen
    2023, 53 (5):  523-531.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.05.005
    Abstract ( 291 )   HTML ( 25 )   PDF (1543KB) ( 689 )  

    In this study, the bi-directional fermentation process of Chinese Ganoderma lucidum, Dendrobium officinale, Polygonatum chinensis and Tuberose was optimized, and the optimal fermentation broth was prepared. Activity inhibition, Aquaporin3 (AQP3) content, 2, 2’-diazo-bis-3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid (ABTS) free radical scavenging rate, 1, 1-diphenyl-2-trinitrophenylhydrazine (DPPH) free radical scavenging rate and melanin content in mouse melanin B16-F10 cells were measured. The results of the study find that the bi-directional fermentation broth of traditional Chinese medicine can significantly inhibit protein non-enzymatic glycosylation, tyrosinase activity, and melanin content in mouse B16-F10 cells (P<0.05). It can also significantly scavenge DPPH and ABTS free radicals, and upregulate AQP3 protein expression in keratinocytes (P<0.01). Therefore, this paper concludes that the bi-directional fermentation broth of traditional Chinese medicine screened by optimizing the bi-directional fermentation process has a significant effect on inhibiting protein non-enzymatic glycosylation, tyrosinase activity and melanin content of mouse melanin B16-F10 cells, upregulating AQP3 protein expression, and scavenging ABTS free radicals and DPPH free radicals in vitro. It provides a new direction and basis for the development of cosmetic raw materials.

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    Evaluation of in vitro soothing and anti-allergic effects of stearyl glycyrrhetinate
    Zhu Zhixian, Chen Guobao, Chen Baohua
    2023, 53 (5):  532-537.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.05.006
    Abstract ( 323 )   HTML ( 18 )   PDF (3241KB) ( 237 )  

    Based on a SLS-induced 3D epidermal skin injury model (EpiKutis®), the effect of stearyl glycyrrhetinate (SG) at 10 μg/mL, 500 μg/mL, 1 mg/mL, and 2 mg/mL was studied comparing with the control group. The tissue morphology is improved at the four mass concentrations and the secretion of IL-1α, TNF-α and PGE2 are significantly decreased. The final results show that the inhibition rates of IL-1α are 26.31%, 30.23%, 36.30%, and 52.55%, respectively. The inhibition rates of TNF-α are 11.50%, 22.47%, 25.71%, and 46.73%, respectively. The inhibition rates of PGE2 are 28.31%, 31.51%, 45.32%, and 57.28%, respectively. It is believed that SG achieves a soothing effect by improving tissue morphology and inhibiting the secretion of IL-1α, TNF-α and PGE2. And the down-regulation effect of SG on IL-1α is significantly better than the 15.20% inhibition rate of 100 μg/mL dexamethasone under the conditions of four experimental concentrations. In the test, SG shows excellent anti-inflammatory and soothing function.

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    Study on antibacterial activity of antibacterial fiber and its application in mask products
    Kong Qiuchan, Jiang Jiaxin, Xia Gaohui, Gong Shengzhao
    2023, 53 (5):  538-543.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.05.007
    Abstract ( 173 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF (1058KB) ( 198 )  

    To reduce irritant and toxicity risk effectively caused by traditional cosmetics preservatives, chitosan quaternary ammonium salt-based antibacterial fiber combined with several various bacteriostatic ingredients was constructed to replace the traditional preservatives used in facial mask products, which obviously improved its broad-spectrum antibacterial ability. The antibacterial properties of antibacterial fiber combined with a variety of antibacterial components were tested. The antibacterial effects comparison among quaternary ammonium chitosan antibacterial fiber combined with plant essential oil, traditional preservatives, and antiseptic substitutes on bacteria, yeast and mold was conducted. The several antiseptic recipes include antibacterial fiber and different antibacterial components were proposed. Antibacterial test results show that the antibacterial fiber combined with hydroxyacetophenone (0.1%-mass fraction, the same below), or Eugenia caryophyllus Thunb. oil (0.05%), or Leptospermum petersonii FM. Bailey oil, or Eucalyptus globulus Labill. oil, can meet the antibacterial requirements of mask products. However, the antibacterial fiber combined with methylparaben has antagonistic effect. Among them, the combination of antibacterial fiber with Eugenia caryophyllus Thunb. oil(0.05%) has the best antibacterial effect. The antibacterial fiber can significantly improve the antibacterial effect, and the improvement rate of Eugenia caryophyllus Thunb. oil is 43.06%.

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    Study on the preparation of Astragalus by enzymatic hydrolysis and its application
    Qi Guofeng, Li Ganggang, An Yan
    2023, 53 (5):  544-550.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.05.008
    Abstract ( 117 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (1269KB) ( 133 )  

    This research investigated the preparation of astragalin by enzymatic hydrolysis method and its application. Using the extraction rate of Astragalus as the evaluation index, astragalin was extracted by enzymatic hydrolysis method and determined by using high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). By constructing aging model mice, the astragalin prepared by enzymatic hydrolysis method was applied to the aging model mice, and the learning and memory ability and the oxidation level of brain tissue of the aging model mice were observed. The results show that the orthogonal test of enzymatic hydrolysis method is superior when the material-liquid ratio is 1∶10, the number of extractions is 3 times, the extraction temperature is 80 ℃ and the extraction time is 1 min, with the highest extraction rate of Astragalus. Compared with the control group, astragalin significantly improves the learning and memory abilities of the aging model mice (P<0.05). The contents of superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase (CAT) in the brain tissues of the aging model mice increase significantly after treatment with astragalin (P<0.05), while the contents of malondialdehyde (MDA) decrease significantly (P<0.05). In this study, by optimising the preparation method of Astragalus and testing the anti-ageing ability of Astragalus, the study lays the theoretical and practical foundation for the further development and clinical application of Astragalus in the future.

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    Reviews
    Research progress of fluorescent nanomaterials
    Li Xi, Aidarova Saule, Yin Xia, Issakhov Miras, Xu Derong, Kang Wanli
    2023, 53 (5):  551-559.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.05.009
    Abstract ( 207 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (2569KB) ( 311 )  

    Fluorescent nanoparticles have been the focus of research and development in the past decade. Compared with traditional fluorescent organic dyes, fluorescent nanoparticles have unique chemical and optical properties, such as brighter fluorescence, higher light stability, and higher biocompatibility. In addition, nanoparticles (NPs) can also be used as multivalent scaffolds for supramolecular assembly, because their high surface-area-to-volume ratio allows different domains to be functionalized, which can provide a multifunctional synthesis platform for different sensing schemes. This paper reviews the research progress of fluorescent nanoparticles including semiconductor NPs (quantum dots), metal NPs and silica NPs in recent years. Typical examples show how fluorescent nanomaterials, including semiconductor nanocrystals, metal nanoparticles and silicon-based nanomaterials, are manufactured. The challenges related to the market position of fluorescent NPs are also discussed.

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    Research progress on evaluation methods of oil control efficacy of cosmetics
    Li Siyue, Han Rui, Liu Qi, Li Yueqin, Zhao Hua
    2023, 53 (5):  560-566.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.05.010
    Abstract ( 465 )   HTML ( 45 )   PDF (1049KB) ( 599 )  

    Oily skin can cause a variety of skin problems, and in severe cases can even lead to acne, seborrheic dermatitis and other skin diseases. People with oily skin are often troubled by greasy skin. Sebaceous secretion is affected by many factors, and the oil control mechanism of cosmetics is complex. Therefore, the oil control efficacy of cosmetics requires a comprehensive and scientific evaluation at multiple layers and dimensions. The Classification Rules and Catalogue of Cosmetics defines the oil control effect as “helping to slow down the secretion and deposition of sebum at the application site, or making the oil secretion at the application site not obvious”. The Cosmetics Supervision and Administration Regulations require that cosmetic efficacy claims should have sufficient scientific basis. In this paper, starting with the basic mechanism of sebum secretion, the requirements of domestic and foreign laws and regulations, the mechanism of oil control cosmetics, the evaluation methods and research progress of oil control efficacy of cosmetics are described, and the establishment of a more comprehensive evaluation system of oil control efficacy of cosmetics is prospected.

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    Research progress on the oral problems and their nursing methods
    Tong Yuelin, Wu Yue
    2023, 53 (5):  567-573.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.05.011
    Abstract ( 188 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (1352KB) ( 309 )  

    The oral cavity is the initial path of the human digestive system, which is essential to people’s health. Lack of proper oral nursing leads to a variety of oral problems including oral ulcers, periodontal disease, dental caries, bad breath, etc. Oral problems not only negatively affect the normal quality of life, pronunciation, and personal appearance, but also affect systemic diseases such as diabetes, cardiovascular disease, stroke, and multi-organ inflammation. Oral problems are affected by the immune status of human body and various external stimuli such as tobacco and alcohol. Consistent and effective oral care can clean the mouth and prevent many oral problems. However, some active ingredients in traditional oral care products usually have many side effects. For example, chlorhexidine mouthwash, which is commonly used in oral nursing, has side effects such as allergic reactions and numbness of the tongue. In recent years, with the continuous development of daily chemical products, people’s awareness of oral care has become stronger and stronger, and the search for safe and effective oral care products has also received more and more attention from cosmetic companies and consumers. Herein, several common oral problems in daily life were introduced. The factors that could result in oral problems were reviewed, such as the oral microecology, aging, nutritional status, and other external substances. In addition, some existing nursing measures for oral problems were introduced. Many new natural actives with antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties were introduced, such as curcumin, hyaluronic acid, ergothioneine and epigallocatechin-3-gallate. Their possible effects in oral cavity were analyzed from multiple perspectives, such as inhibiting pathogenic bacteria, anti-inflammation, and promoting collagen production. The applications of natural extracts in oral nursing were reviewed, aiming to provide a reference for oral care products.

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    Research on the application of regional cultural elements in the visual image design of daily chemical products
    Wang Kun, Bai Xingyi, Yang Ruikun
    2023, 53 (5):  574-580.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.05.012
    Abstract ( 154 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (2675KB) ( 189 )  

    Nowadays the market competition between domestic daily chemical brands and foreign brands is becoming increasingly fierce, the visual image design of domestic daily chemical brands is seriously homogenized, and the visual image of products lacks characteristics. It is of great importance to explore the internal connection between regional cultural elements and the visual image of daily chemical products, and connect the two through design language to form a visual image of distinctive daily chemical products. Understanding and analyzing the correlation between daily chemical products and regional culture, using the three-level theory of emotion, deeply digging regional cultural elements, finding out the tangible, behavioral and intangible content of cultural elements, establishing a regional cultural element library, and extracting relevant elements are deducted or reconstructed to form new design elements, which are properly integrated into the visual image design of daily chemical products according to certain design principles. Through theoretical research and practice, it is possible to organically combine regional cultural elements with daily chemical products through extraction and refinement to design daily chemical products that meet the aesthetic cognition of modern consumers and the natural and organic psychological needs of product raw materials. At the same time, practice has proved that the integration of regional cultural elements can improve product recognition, enhance brand cultural connotation, and enhance product competitiveness.

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    Analytical methods and testing
    Determination of 19 flavors and fragrances in cosmetics by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry
    Wang Wei, Xing Yujin, Zhang Xue
    2023, 53 (5):  581-587.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.05.013
    Abstract ( 164 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (1106KB) ( 176 )  

    In this study, methanol was used as the extraction solvent, and gas chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (GC-MS) was used to detect and analyze 19 kinds of flavors and fragrances by SLB-5 ms capillary column (30 m×250 μm×0.25 μm) within 35 minutes. The selected ion monitoring mode (SIM) scanning measurement was used for separation, and the external standard method was used for quantification. The 19 flavors and fragrances have a good linear relationship within the corresponding linear range, and the correlation coefficients are all greater than 0.998 0. The experimental data meet the requirements of the relevant laws, regulations and standards. At the same time, on the basis of “Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics” (2015 edition), this study has optimized the types of chromatographic columns, mobile phase composition, and sample extraction solvent selection for the determination of 19 flavors and fragrances in cosmetics. Compared with the original method, the stability of the tested substance is better, and the experimental operation is more convenient and efficient. The experimental results show that the research method is fast, simple, reproducible and durable, and the results are accurate and reliable.

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    Determination of 33 kinds of components such as caffeine in bodybuilding products by liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry
    Jiang Chengjun, Wu Zhishan, Yin Shuai, Huang Haiping
    2023, 53 (5):  588-595.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.05.014
    Abstract ( 150 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (1241KB) ( 131 )  

    Bodybuilding products are also known as slimming products or anti-cellulite products, produced body shaping and bodybuilding. Through massage and hot compresses, the active substances of cosmetics are absorbed into the body, which help to decompose subcutaneous lipolysis, accelerate subcutaneous fat metabolism, and reduce edema. Due to the special way of use, large use area, and long stay time, the potential safety risks have been paid more and more attention by the consumers. There is a high risk that it may add prohibited substances. Currently, there is little literature on the determination of slimming drugs in bodybuilding products. Therefore, it is necessary to establish a method for the determination of components in these products. In this paper, an effective method of high performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS/MS) was established for the determination of 33 kinds of components such as caffeine in bodybuilding products. The samples were extracted using methanol, and filtered through a 0.22 μm filtering membrane after centrifugation with high speed. The analysis was performed on an AtlantisdC18(2.1 mm×100 mm×3 μm)at 30 ℃ with 0.1% formic acid-acetonitrile as the mobile phase by gradient elution at the flow rate of 0.3 mL/min. The matrix curve was quantified by external standard method. The results show that the method has good linearity with correlation coefficients exceeding 0.99. The recoveries at different concentrations are between 80.7%-118.2%, and the relative standard deviations (RSDs) are less than 10%. The limit of detections (LODs) are 0.003-0.015 μg/g. The method proves to be simple, rapid, suitable for the determination of caffeine and others in bodybuilding products.

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    Simultaneous determination of caprylhydroxamic acid, 4-hydroxyacetophenone and p-anisic acid in cosmetics by HPLC-MS
    Li Zexiaqiong, Qiu Hongyan, Ma Ying, Liu Dan, Zhao Li
    2023, 53 (5):  596-601.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.05.015
    Abstract ( 141 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (1097KB) ( 156 )  

    The content of caprylhydroxamic acid, 4-hydroxyacetophenone and p-anisic acid in cosmetics was simultaneously determined by HPLC-MS. The mobile phase was 0.1% acetic acid in acetonitrile (containing 0.1% formic acid) by using the gradient elution method. The qualitative analysis of these components was based on the retention time and the relative abundance ratio of the characteristic ion pairs. The peak area of the characteristic ions was used for quantitative analysis. The standard curve method was used to calculate the content of the three substances. The results showed that, in liquid matrix, lotion matrix and cream matrix, caprylhydroxamic acid, 4-hydroxyacetophenone and p-anisic acid showed good linear relationships in the range of 10-2 000, 2-2 000 and 5-2 000 ng/mL, respectively, while the correlation coefficients (r) were>0.999. This method was applied to determine the caprylhydroxamic acid, 4-hydroxyacetophenone and p-anisic acid in cosmetics, the results of which were stable within 48 hours. The recovery rates were between 87.37% and 111.56%. The average relative standard deviation (RSD) of the precision research was 1.4%, 1.8% and 1.6%, respectively. This method is efficient, convenient, and accurate in qualitative and quantitative analysis. It is suitable for quantitative and qualitative analysis of caprylhydroxamic acid, 4-hydroxyacetophenone and p-anisic acid in cosmetics of different matrices.

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    Determination of 37 elements in shampoo cosmetics by super microwave digestion-inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry
    Yin Weicheng, Wang Yanchao, Xu Shaokang, Wu Zhishan, Tang Guipeng, Zhang Weiqing
    2023, 53 (5):  602-608.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.05.016
    Abstract ( 123 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (1044KB) ( 118 )  

    A method for determination of 37 elements in shampoo cosmetics was established by using super microwave digestion-inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry (ICP-MS). After the samples were digested on a super microwave digester, Re and Rh were applied as internal standard elements, and the concentrations of 37 elements including Pb, As, Hg, Cd, Li, Be, Sc, V, Co, Ni, Cr, Mn, Cu, Rb, Sr, Pr, Nd, Dy, Ag, In, Cs, Ba, Tl, Bi, Th, La, Ce, Er, Eu, Gd, Ho, Lu, Sm, Tb, Tm, Y and Yb were simultaneously determined by ICP-MS. The method has a good linear relationship within a certain concentration range, and the linear correlation coefficients are all≥0.995. The recovery rates of low, medium and high spiked concentrations are 87.1%-113.5%, and the RSD is 0.72%-5.00% (n=6). This method has strong specificity and high sensitivity, which can rapidly and accurately determine 37 metal elements in shampoo products.

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