Table of Content

22 April 2023, Volume 53 Issue 4 Previous Issue    Next Issue

Basic research

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Study on rheological and interfacial properties of a synergistic mixture of hydrophobically associating polymer HAWP and erucamidopropyl allyl ammonium bromide Yang Bin 2023, 53 (4):  365-372.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.04.001 Abstract ( 176 )   HTML ( 16 )   PDF (1872KB) ( 210 )   In view of the limited abilities of hydrophobically associating polymers to increase viscosity and improve interfacial activity, a synergistic system composed of a hydrophobically associating polymer and a cationic surfactant was proposed. In this work, the hydrophobically associating polymer HAWP and the cationic surfactant erucamidopropyl allyl ammonium bromide （EDAA） were mixed to construct the synergistic system （EDHA）. The viscosity-increasing mechanism of the synergistic system was studied by scanning electron microscopy, rheometer and cyclodextrin inclusion method. The effects of pH, NaCl mass concentration and temperature on the rheological properties and the ability to reduce interfacial tension were also explored. The results showed that the synergism of the mixed system was based on hydrophobic association and electrostatic attraction. With the increase of pH, the viscosity and viscoelasticity of the synergistic system first increased and then decreased, and the interfacial tension first decreased and then increased. The viscosity and viscoelasticity of the synergistic system were decreased with the increase of NaCl mass concentration, and the interfacial tension was first increased and then decreased. The viscosity and viscoelasticity of the system were decreased and the interfacial tension was increased with the increase of temperature. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Experimental study on polymer gel profile control and flooding in high-temperature heterogeneous reservoirs Liao Jianjun, Li Huabin, Deng Jinpin, He Gang, Liu Sisi, Zhang Xiao 2023, 53 (4):  373-381.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.04.002 Abstract ( 135 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (2033KB) ( 275 )   After long-term exploitation of the high-temperature heterogeneous reservoirs in North China Oilfield, the water content becomes high and the heterogeneity is further enhanced, while conventional chemical flooding measures have poor effects in water control and enhancement of oil production. To solve this problem, the high-temperature resistance and the effects in profile control, water control and oil increase for polymer gels were studied through the combination of indoor screening, physical simulation, and theoretical analysis. The results showed that, the selected gel system had excellent high-temperature resistance and viscoelasticity, and the maximum viscosity was 4 371.2 mPa·s after complete gelation. After 30 days of high temperature aging, the viscosity retention rate was 90.5%, and the elastic modulus and viscous modulus were 10.4 and 1.3 Pa, respectively. The system had strong plugging ability. In a certain range of permeability contrast, the abilities of profile improvement, water control and enhancement of oil production of the system were increased with the increase of permeability contrast. When the permeability contrast was increased from 2.13 to 8.16, the profile improvement rate after profile control was increased from 58% to 92.8%; when the permeability contrast was increased from 2.06 to 8.08, the recovery rate after profile control and flooding was increased from 10.2% to 19.5%. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Lecture of science and technology

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Scientific foundations of hair and scalp care （Ⅳ） Development of protein and polypeptide ingredients for hair care Fan Jiayi, Ma Ling, Chen Timson, Chang Kuan, Wang Jing 2023, 53 (4):  382-389.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.04.003 Abstract ( 368 )   HTML ( 38 )   PDF (1963KB) ( 481 )   With the development of hair cosmetics, many new raw materials have been developed and widely applied. More and more raw materials such as proteins and polypeptides have been applied in a variety of hair cosmetics, including shampoos, hair conditioners, hair masks, etc. Adding some proteins or polypeptides into hair cosmetics can effectively improve the mechanical strength, flexibility and hydrophobicity of hair, so they have repair effects on photoaging and chemical damage such as hair reduction during perming and hair bleaching during coloring. In this review, the research progress of hair care materials based on proteins and polypeptides was introduced, including the sources, extraction methods, hair care mechanism, hair care effect, etc. This review could provide a guideline for the research and development of hair care materials based on proteins and polypeptides. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Development and application

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Novel role of piroctone olamine on protease inhibition in vitro, and reduction in human hair shedding in combination of zinc sulfate in vivo Kaur Bhogal Ranjit, Chen Xubin, Messenger David, Gong Zhehui, Sun Jianing, Pi Yingying, Gu Jiayin 2023, 53 (4):  390-397.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.04.004 Abstract ( 410 )   HTML ( 22 )   PDF (1293KB) ( 257 )   The process leading to the final step of hair shedding is reported to be driven by proteolytic activity and contributes to the detachment of club hair. During late telogen and exogen, increased protease activity may lead to excessive and unwanted hair loss. Materials that can correct proteolytic activity could be beneficial in reducing excessive hair loss. Piroctone olamine was assessed for the protease inhibition efficacy in vitro by deploying a direct fluorescence-based assay for detecting metallo-, serine, acid and sulfhydryl proteases. The assay detects protease activity by the means of a labelled pH-insensitive fluorescent dye where an increase in fluorescence is proportional to protease activity. The assay allows the assessment of materials that may inhibit protease activity of the target enzymes. Since serine proteases have been shown to play a role in the exogen phase of the hair growth cycle, trypsin a known serine protease was used as the target enzyme. Piroctone olamine was found to inhibit trypsin protease activity in a dose-dependent manner. The inhibitory effect was boosted with the addition zinc sulfate. The combination of zinc sulfate with piroctone olamine was formulated into a shampoo base for the evaluation of hair density efficacy in vivo. Male and female participants with hair loss concerns treated their scalp with a shampoo wash （treatment or placebo） 3 times per week for 12 weeks. Hair density was assessed at baseline followed by 4 weekly intervals. The results showed a significant increase in hair density following shampoo treatment versus baseline and versus placebo suggesting the combination of piroctone olamine and zinc sulfate plays a role in retaining hairs and consequently reducing hair fall. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Study on screening extraction process of total flavonoids from Nelumbinis Plumula by polyols and its properties Hao Qing, Wu Ermin, Bi Yongxian, Liu Jinjun, Kong Decheng, Cheng Zhiwei 2023, 53 (4):  398-407.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.04.005 Abstract ( 166 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF (2434KB) ( 155 )   Nelumbinis Plumula is a kind of medicinal and edible plant with great development potential. Single factor test and response surface test were used to screen and optimize the ultrasonic-assisted extraction process of total flavonoids from Nelumbinis Plumula by polyols, and the safety, in vitro antioxidant, antibacterial and anti-allergy activities of Nelumbinis Plumula extract were determined. Results show that under the conditions of extraction solvent 1,2-hexanediol, solvent volume fraction 87%, material-liquid ratio 3.6:100 （g:mL）, and extraction time 39 min, the yield of total flavonoids is 1.80%±0.08%. At 1.2 g/L, the Nelumbinis Plumula extract has no irritation, the half maximal inhibitory concentration of DPPH radical and ABTS radical is 0.76 and 0.69 g/L, respectively, and the minimum inhibitory concentration for Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus and Pseudomonas aeruginosa are 0.56, 1.12 and 0.14 g/L, respectively. Moreover, the half maximal inhibitory concentration of hyaluronidase is 0.35 g/L. This study provides an easy, safe and efficient method for extracting total flavonoids from Nelumbinis Plumula, which ensures the biological activity of the extract and a high yield of total flavonoids, and provides a theoretical basis for the development of Nelumbinis Plumula. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Analysis of a case of cosmetics contaminated by Enterobacter gergoviae Huang Yiwen, Zhang Shanshan, Wang Xingyue, Shen Haiying 2023, 53 (4):  408-413.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.04.006 Abstract ( 139 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (1507KB) ( 139 )   Enterobacter gergoviae is a conditional pathogen, which can cause urinary system, respiratory tract and blood infection in the immunocompromised population. It widely exists in water, soil and vegetables. Enterobacter gergoviae contamination is common in cosmetics, which is mainly related to its resistance to the most widely used cosmetic preservative methyl 4-hydroxybenzoate. In this paper, a batch of cosmetics contaminated by Enterobacter gergoviae were analyzed and studied in order to provide reference for the cosmetics enterprises to select appropriate preservatives. Aerobic bacterial was counted in 1 batch of cosmetics and the preservatives in 6 batches of cosmetics were tested according to the 2015 version of “Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics”. The contaminated bacteria in cosmetics were identified by VITEK MS and 16s rRNA gene sequencing, and transferred every month to observe the survival of Enterobacter gergoviae at room temperature. Enterobacter gergoviae was used to conduct preservative challenge test on 5 batches of cosmetics containing methylparaben. The results show that a batch of cosmetics with aerobic bacterial count exceeding the standard is identified as Enterobacter gergoviae, and the preservative methylparaben used in this batch of cosmetics is 0.15%. Enterobacter gergoviae can survive for more than 10 months under the condition of good nutrition at room temperature. Three batches of cosmetics with the methylparaben concentration of 0.2% and a batch of cosmetics with the methylparaben concentration of 0.1% + bisimidazolidinyl urea pass the preservative challenge test of Enterobacter gergoviae. Cosmetics with the methylparaben concentration of 0.1% fail the preservative challenge test of Enterobacter gergoviae. Enterobacter gergoviae is resistant to methylparaben, a commonly used preservative in cosmetics. When selecting this type of preservative, it is recommended to use Enterobacter gergoviae for preservative challenge test to determine its applicability. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Age-related changes in skin physiological parameters and skin bacterial microbiome among 310 Shanghai women Ma Laiji, Zhang Huan, Chen Huidan, Yang Suzhen, Li Yan, Shao Li 2023, 53 (4):  414-422.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.04.007 Abstract ( 253 )   HTML ( 16 )   PDF (2818KB) ( 227 )   Understanding the changes in the skin physiological parameters, skin microbiome and their associated relationship during aging remains largely unknown. To better understand this phenomenon, we investigated 310 healthy females aged 18-60 years randomly selected from a community in Shanghai from July to August 2021. Multiple skin physiological parameters were measured by non-invasive instrumental methods, and the facial skin microbiome was analyzed by 16S rRNA sequencing. The results show that with the increase of age, skin sebum content and transepidermal water loss （TEWL） decrease, while the skin hydration is affected by age and in different age groups it presents different changing rules. Additionally, the skin color （ITA°） becomes darker, and the skin elasticity decreases, especially significantly appearing after the age of 25 years old （P<0.001）. The Shannon index is found to increase, indicating that the skin bacteria diversity increases with age. The analysis of species composition indicates that the abundance of Actinobacteria shows a decreasing trend, while Proteobacteria shows an increasing trend with age. Accordingly, at the genus level, the abundance of Cutibacterium decreases significantly, while the abundance of Streptococcus and Pseudomonas shows an increasing trend with age. Furthermore, spearman correlation analysis reveals strong correlations between the skin physiological parameters and the microbiota. Notably, age is an important factor affecting the changes of skin physiological parameters and skin bacteria. In conclusion, these results show that the skin physiological parameters and microbiota characteristics of females undergoes age-associated alterations. To some extent, these characteristics can be regarded as age markers, and these results can guide the development of cosmetics. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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The preparation process of three leguminous plant peptides and their activities Zhang Huirong, Guo Miaomiao, Chen Chen, Pan Qianyin, Zhang Ying, Li Li 2023, 53 (4):  423-429.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.04.008 Abstract ( 178 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF (1605KB) ( 174 )   In this study, the proteins of mung bean （Vigna radiata）, sword bean （Canavalia gladiate） and rice bean （Vigna umbellata） were extracted by alkaline solubilization, acid deposition and ultrasound-assisted methods. The anti-oxidant ability of the three legume peptides was investigated by DPPH and ABTS radical scavenging assays, and the anti-inflammatory ability of the three legume peptides was investigated by COX-2 inhibition assay. The results show that the total protein content obtained from C. gladiate, V. radiata and V. umbellata is 89.82%, 79.93% and 75.76%, respectively. V. radiata and V. umbellata peptides are produced by stepwise hydrolysis with papain （8 000 U/g） and neutral protease （8 000 U/g）. C. gladiate peptides are obtained by stepwise hydrolysis with papain （8 000 U/g） and acidic protease （8 000 U/g）. The total peptide content of the peptide samples from V. umbellata, V. radiata and C. gladiate are 69.27%, 53.31% and 51.18%, respectively. The IC50 values for DPPH radical scavenging are 1.92, 0.92 and 0.60 g/L for V. radiata, C. gladiate and V. umbellate, respectively, and 0.22, 0.20 and 0.17 g/L for ABTS radical scavenging, respectively. The anti-oxidant capacity ranks as V. umbellata peptide>C. gladiate peptide> V. radiata peptide in order of strength. The peptides of V. umbellata, C. gladiate and V. radiata all show good inhibition of COX-2, with the COX-2 inhibition rates of 95.23%, 92.65% and 64.23% at 2.0 g/L, respectively. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Change in total flavonoid content of hawthorn leaves after adverse stress treatment and the molecular mechanism on myocardial ischemia in rats Ren Jiejie 2023, 53 (4):  430-436.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.04.009 Abstract ( 126 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (1352KB) ( 368 )   The total flavonoids in different varieties of hawthorn leaves were determined and the molecular mechanism of the effects on myocardial ischemia in rats was discussed. The seedlings of different varieties of hawthorn trees with good growth and uniform size were selected, and the total flavonoids of hawthorn leaves were extracted by organic solvent extraction. The content was determined by HPLC and ultraviolet spectrophotometry. The antioxidant capacity was determined by ultraviolet spectrophotometry. The total flavonoids were then applied to myocardial ischemic model rats, and the molecular mechanism was determined by electrocardiography, biochemical index detection and Real-Time PCR technology. The results showed that, the content of total flavonoids in the hawthorn leaves of “Dajinxing” and the antioxidant capacity thereof were significantly higher than other varieties; the total flavonoids in hawthorn leaves could significantly improve the ST segment status, biochemical indexes and hemodynamic parameters of ECG in acute myocardial ischemic rats; total flavonoids of hawthorn leaves could significantly affect the expression of CaSR, c-fos and Cyt-C genes in myocardial ischemic rats. In conclusion, among the four varieties of hawthorn leaves, the content of total flavonoids and antioxidant capacity of “Dajinxing” hawthorn leaves were significantly higher than those of other groups, which could significantly improve the state of myocardial ischemic rats, providing a theoretical basis for the selection of high-quality crude drug sources in future. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Reviews

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Research progress on physiological action and preparations of luteolin Zhan Xin, Xu Fan, Zhu Jun, He Yifan, Pei Xiaojing 2023, 53 (4):  437-444.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.04.010 Abstract ( 336 )   HTML ( 23 )   PDF (1437KB) ( 200 )   Luteolin is a natural flavonoid compound and can be used as cosmetic raw material. Studies have shown that luteolin can provide hydrogen atoms to react with free radicals to generate stable compounds and enhance the activity of antioxidant enzymes to achieve antioxidant effects. It can also inhibit the expression of inflammatory cytokines and inflammatory mediators by affecting multiple inflammatory signaling pathways. It can also delay aging by inhibiting kinases that affect skin aging and whiten the skin by inhibiting enzymes involved in the synthesis of melanin. However, the solubility and bioavailability of luteolin are poor since it is only slightly soluble both in hot water and in cold water. Its solubility and bioavailability can be improved by preparation technologies such as solid dispersion, cyclodextrin inclusion, phospholipid complexation, formation of solid lipid nanoparticles, nanostructured liposomes, nanomilk and polymer micelles, etc. However, some preparation technologies have the problems of high cost, short shelf life, instability, etc., and further research on the action mechanism of luteolin and related preparations is needed. The physiological action mechanisms of luteolin on the skin, as well as the research progress of its various preparation techniques, were reviewed, which could provide a reference for further preparation research and cosmetic product application. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research and application prospect of phytosterols （esters） Wang Xiaokang, Chen Wen, Zhang Taijun, Yin Zhigang, Gu Yulong, Li Tao 2023, 53 (4):  445-452.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.04.011 Abstract ( 406 )   HTML ( 18 )   PDF (1148KB) ( 347 )   The latest research progress of phytosterols （esters） has been summarized, including synthetic methods, functions, related physicochemical modification and applications, with emphasis on the applications in cosmetics. The synthetic methods of phytosterol esters mainly include chemical catalytic method, ionic liquid catalytic method, solvent-free direct esterification and biological enzyme catalytic method. Biological enzyme catalytic method is the current focus of academic research, and it is expected to gradually replace chemical catalytic method in industrial production to become the mainstream method. Meanwhile, phytosterols have the functions of reducing cholesterol, antioxidation, anti-cancer, anti-inflammation, skin barrier repair and anti-bacteria. Phytosterols have various modification means such as esterification, emulsification, microencapsulation, nano-carrier, ethoxylation and polyethylene glycol modification. Therefore, they have been widely used in cosmetic industry, as well as in food, health care, pharmaceuticals, agriculture and livestock industry. Particularly, phytosterol oleate is developing rapidly. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress on lavender essential oil microcapsules and application in textiles Hao Lincong, Xia Xin 2023, 53 (4):  453-458.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.04.012 Abstract ( 192 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (1223KB) ( 263 )   Lavender essential oil has aromatherapy effects. It can be widely used to improve people’s health in the daily chemical, foodstuff, medical et.al. However, due to the strong volatility of lavender essential oil, its long-term use in life is limited. The microencapsulation method realizes the encapsulation of lavender essential oil, which reduces the influence of physical factors such as temperature and light on the essential oil from a microscopic perspective. β-cyclodextrin realizes the complexation with lavender essential oil from the molecular. Chitosan and Sodium Alginate can prepare microcapsules of different sizes by changing the reaction conditions. Textiles is a medium for fragrance, and nano-textile technology and multi-scale fiber mixing technology combine microcapsules with textiles. Long-lasting and stable release of essential oil on textiles can be achieved by adjusting the structure of micro- and nano-fibers, or using fiber or fabric finishing techniques, which forms a lasting and stable aroma effect in the living environment. Combined with the current research status at home and abroad, the preparation technology of lavender essential oil microcapsules and the construction method of aromatic textiles are expounded. The research direction and prospects are prospected, which is significance for broadening the application of lavender essential oil and developing textile products with aromatic functions. References | Related Articles | Metrics

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The research progress of skin microecology and probiotic for skin anti-photoaging Chen Yiwen, Wen Xia, Huang Jiancong, Zhang Shuyao, Zheng Yali, Xie Xiaobao 2023, 53 (4):  459-464.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.04.013 Abstract ( 251 )   HTML ( 18 )   PDF (1054KB) ( 256 )   Skin microecology is an important component of the skin barrier, and the normal metabolic activity of skin microorganisms can resist external stimuli. Therefore, maintaining skin microbial homeostasis is a key research object in the field of cosmetics. This article systematically introduces the relationship between ultraviolet radiation and skin as well as its microorganisms, and indicates that long-term exposure to ultraviolet radiation can disrupt the homeostasis of skin microorganisms, leading to light damage, aging, and other issues. This article reviews the research progress of anti-photoaging at home and abroad, and confirms that skin microorganisms and probiotics can block or reverse the negative effects of ultraviolet rays and restore skin homeostasis. This article aims to provide theoretical support and research ideas for the development of microbial anti-photoaging methods, with a view to promoting the healthy and sustainable development of China’s cosmetics industry. References | Related Articles | Metrics

Analytical methods and testing

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Detection and analysis of 40 elements in children’s cosmetics based on super microwave digestion inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry Pan Xiaohong, Yin Shuai, Liu Yuling, Huang Haiping, Zhao Wei 2023, 53 (4):  465-471.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.04.014 Abstract ( 118 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (1200KB) ( 183 )   To investigate the content of elements in children’s cosmetics, a method for the determination of 40 elements in children’s cosmetics by super microwave digestion inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry was established. After validation of the methodology, 75 batches of samples were determined and the results were analyzed. Results show that the methods meet the requirements of cosmetic testing with simple, rapid, accurate and can be used to the determination of elements in children’s cosmetics. The determination results of mercury, lead, arsenic and cadmium all conform to the standard. In the determination of nickel, chromium and barium, two batches of barium are 0.88 and 0.62 mg/kg, one batch of nickel is 6.71 mg/kg, and other samples are all less than 0.5 mg/kg. The determination results of titanium element range from 0.2 to 82.5 mg/kg. One batch of silver determination result is 6.83 mg/kg. The 16 rare earth elements are less than 0.1 mg/kg, and the other elements are less than 0.3 mg/kg. It is suggested that in children’s cosmetics, the limits of nickel, chromium, barium and their salts should be studied, the health risk of titanium content should be evaluated, and the detection method of silver potassium cyanide should be improved. Rare earth elements and other elements are in good safety condition with low safety risk. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Ozone contribution of VOCs in nail cosmetics and its health risk assessment Chen Panjin, Shen Zhengchao, Du Zhenxia 2023, 53 (4):  472-480.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.04.015 Abstract ( 151 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (1707KB) ( 209 )   VOCs emission control is one of the main means to control ozone concentration at present. In recent years, the use of nail cosmetics has been increasing year by year. Since it contains more volatile solvents, it is necessary to study the emission inventory of VOCs released. This study collected 25 representative nail polish samples with a large amount of use through market research, and established a detection method for the total VOCs and VOCs emission list in different types of nail cosmetics. Firstly, a certain amount of samples were placed in an oven （105 ℃） to determine the total volatile content of the product, the Karl Fischer method was used to determine the water content, and headspace-gas chromatography-mass spectrometry（HS-GC-MS） was used for qualitative and quantitative detection of VOCs. The average VOCs content of water-based nail polish, organic solvent-based nail polish, nutritional oil and nail remover are 0.314 5, 0.366 9, 0.049 6, 0.904 2 g/g, respectively. The main VOCs categories in the four types of nail cosmetics are amines （N-methylpyrrolidone, triethylamine）, esters （ethyl acetate）, terpenes （（±）-limonene） and alcohols （2-phenoxyethanol, methanol, ethanol）. Organic solvent-based nail polishes contain a small amount of BTEX: toluene, m-xylene, and 1, 2, 4-trimethylbenzene, and the nail remover contains 18.39% acetone. According to the VOCs emission list and content in the different types nail polish, its contribution to ozone generation is calculated. The amount of O3 generated per unit mass of nail polish is 0.000 061 2~1.15 g/g, of which the O3 per unit mass of organic solvent-based nail polish has the largest contribution rate. Among the VOCs released by various types of nail cosmetics, OFP contributes the most to amines, BTEX, and alcohols. Among them, BTEX has high reactivity and contributes greatly to O3. Based on respiratory exposure, the non-carcinogenic hazard quotient （HQ） of VOCs in nail cosmetics to human health is calculated in the range of 6.66×10-6-8.64×10-4, and the hazard index （HI）<1. The health risk assessment results show that there is no non-carcinogenic risk to adult women. This study provides basic data for the control of the VOCs emission of nail cosmetic products. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Determination of 10 prohibited stines in 3 different matrixes of cosmetics by HPLC-MS/MS Wu Yuanyang, Zhang Liyuan, Wang Ren, He Tingting 2023, 53 (4):  481-486.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.04.016 Abstract ( 143 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (1174KB) ( 128 )   A high performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry （HPLC-MS/MS） method has been established for the simultaneous determination of 10 banned stines drugs in 3 different matrixes of cosmetics. The sample was ultrasonically extracted with 0.1% formic acid-acetonitrile and performed on an Agilent Eclipse plus C8 column （2.1 mm×100 mm, 1.8 μm） with gradient elution using methanol and 5 mmol/L ammonium formate-0.1% formic acid aqueous solution as the mobile phase. The determination was performed by MS/MS in multiple reaction detection （MRM） mode, and the external standard method was used for quantification. Betahistine dihydrochlorride, mizolastine, epinastine hydrochloride, and emedastine difumarate have good linearity in the range of 1-16 μg/L, while the other six stines have good linearity in the range of 0.1-1.6 μg/L, with the correlation coefficient （r2）>0.99. The limits of detection （LODs） and the limits of quantification （LOQs） are in the range of 0.003-0.12 μg/L and 0.011-0.39 μg/L, respectively. At three different levels of addition, the recoveries of water aqua, lotion and cream samples are 88.0%-107.8%, 87.1%-106.5%, and 87.1%-107.7%, respectively. And the relative standard deviation （RSD） is less than 10%. The method is accurate, high-efficiency, simple pre-treatment, and high recovery rate. It is suitable for the simultaneous determination of 10 stines in cosmetics. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Determination of 17 sulfonamides in anti-acne cosmetics with different substrates by UPLC-MS/MS Chen Guijuan, Xing Haiyan, Yao Xinyue, Han Yonghong, Tao Juan 2023, 53 (4):  487-492.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.04.017 Abstract ( 151 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF (1257KB) ( 208 )   Simultaneous determination of 17 sulfonamides in cosmetics by ultra high performance liquid chromatography tandem triple quadrupole mass spectrometry （UPLC-MS/MS） was established. The samples were dissolved in 50% methanol aqueous solutions by ultrasonic extraction, and the Waters ACQUITY UPLC® BEH C18 column （100 mm×2.1 mm, 1.7 μm） was used. The mixture of methanol and 0.1% （volume fraction） formic acid aqueous solutions with different volume fraction was used as the mobile phase for gradient elution, measured with liquid chromatography tandem mass spectrometry in electrospray ion mode and positive ion multiple reaction monitoring （ESI+）, and quantification by external standard method. The results show that the matrix effects of the sample are small and can be ignored. There is a good linear relationship for 17 sulfonamides at the mass concentrations of 0.5-100 ng/mL, and the correlation coefficients are greater than 0.999. The detection limits are 0.002-0.028 μg/g, and the quantitation limits are 0.006-0.094 μg/g. The average recovery is 97.5%-118.3% with the standard references added at the content of 0.25-2.5 μg/g in blank samples, and the relative standard deviations （n=6） are 0.74%-6.37%. According to this method, 10 batches of anti-acne cosmetics are analyzed, and none is detected with 17 sulfonamides. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics