Abstract:

Cosmetics require sufficient amounts of active ingredients to reach and maintain in the skin and superficial tissues to perform their corresponding functions. Therefore, it is important to study the absorption process of the active ingredients of cosmetics in the skin. It is difficult to evaluate the effect of physically facilitated transdermal technology such as iontophoresis by using Franz diffusion cell method and Parallel Artificial Membrane Permeability Assay （PAMPA） method. Dermato-pharmacokinetic （DPK） method can be not only used to evaluate the bioequivalence of bioavailability of the drug, but also can be used to evaluate difference of bioavailability of the active substance in cosmetics. Four mask products were used on the randomly marked areas of thirty volunteers respectively, including: mask 1 （complete circuit & transdermal enhancer）, mask 2 （complete circuit）, mask 3 （damage circuit & transdermal enhancer） and mask 4 （damage circuit）. After 30 minutes, removed the mask and wiped the test site with a dry paper towel. Used D100 tape and pressure stick to tear off 21 times. The tape pasted for the 1st time was discarded, and the tape of 2nd to 21st time was frozen in the centrifuge tube. Quantitative tests of every five tapes were performed by a high-performance liquid chromatography-mass spectrometer （HPLC-MS）. The test results shown that the concentration of active ingredient in the stratum corneum was highest by use the mask with complete circuit & transdermal enhancer, the worst is the mask with damage circuit, and the middle is the masks with complete circuit or damage circuit & transdermal enhancer. DPK test can be used to evaluate the physically facilitated transdermal technology for cosmetics.

Key words: Dermato-pharmacokinetic （DPK）, transdermal, skin care, iontophoresis