China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics ›› 2022, Vol. 52 ›› Issue (8): 904-912.doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.08.016
• Reviews • Previous Articles
Wang Qian,Liu Fei,Yang Suzhen*(),Han Tingting,Wang Xiaomei,Chen Yurong
Received:
2021-09-26
Revised:
2022-07-28
Online:
2022-08-22
Published:
2022-08-24
Contact:
Suzhen Yang
E-mail:85844202@qq.com
CLC Number:
Wang Qian,Liu Fei,Yang Suzhen,Han Tingting,Wang Xiaomei,Chen Yurong. Research progress of sebaceous glands in the field of skin care[J].China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2022, 52(8): 904-912.
Tab. 1
Source, composition, characteristics and main functions of skin lipids[5⇓-7]"
皮肤脂质 | 质量分数 | 主要作用 | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
皮脂腺脂质 | 细胞间脂质 | |||
脂质组成 | 甘油三酯 | 41% | 16.5% | 形成表皮渗透压屏障; 防止紫外线辐射和晒伤 |
游离脂肪酸 | 16.4% | 10%~15% | 形成表皮渗透压屏障; 短链脂肪酸可抑制组蛋白脱乙酰基酶活性,抑制金黄色葡萄球菌的生长; 不饱和脂肪酸可激活过氧化物酶体增殖物激活受体γ,刺激脂质合成,促进终端皮脂腺细胞分化,抑制角质细胞增殖,抗衰老,抑制朗格汉斯细胞功能,减少黏附分子的表达; 花生四烯酸可代谢产生白三烯B4和前列腺素E2,参与炎症反应 | |
脂质组成 | 胆固醇 | 1.4% | 24% | 形成表皮渗透压屏障 |
胆固醇酯 | 2.1% | |||
角鲨烯 | 12% | 形成表皮渗透压屏障; 增强皮肤抗氧化性能 | ||
蜡酯 | 25% | 形成表皮渗透压屏障; 增强皮肤耐水性能及抗氧化性能 | ||
神经酰胺 | 40%~50% | 形成表皮渗透压屏障; 抑制肿瘤坏死因子-α和Toll样受体4诱导的核转录因子Kappa B激活,刺激细胞增殖和迁移,抑制细胞凋亡 |
Tab. 2
Receptors and cytokines expressed in sebocytes"
相关系统 | 具体成分 |
---|---|
内分泌系统 | 肾上腺皮质激素释放激素、促肾上腺皮质激素释放激素受体-1、促肾上腺皮质激素释放激素受体-2、促肾上腺皮质激素释放激素结合蛋白、β-内啡肽、阿黑皮素原、黑素皮质素受体1/2/5、雄激素受体、过氧化物酶体增殖物激活受体α/β/γ |
神经系统 | 大麻素受体1、大麻素受体2、辣椒素受体1/2/3/4、烟碱型乙酰胆碱受体、毒蕈碱型乙酰胆碱受体、人血清P物质 |
炎症因子 | 白细胞介素-1、白细胞介素-6、肿瘤坏死因子-α、前列素E2 |
酶系统 | 单酰甘油脂肪酶、脂肪酸酰胺水解酶、花生四烯酸磷脂酰乙醇胺特异性磷脂酶D |
Tab. 3
Ingredients for regulating sebum secretion and their mechanisms in skin care"
成分 | 作用途径 | 参考文献 |
---|---|---|
清洁类成分 | 清除已产生的皮脂,但过度清洗可能会造成毛囊口压力减小,刺激皮脂腺更快地分泌更多皮脂,直至压力达到平衡 | [ |
硅石 | 通过自身的孔隙,暂时吸附皮肤表面的油脂 | [ |
改性玉米淀粉 | ||
滑石粉 | ||
高岭土 | ||
PCA锌 | 通过收缩毛孔减少皮脂的排出达到减少皮肤表面油脂的目的 | [ |
药用层孔菌提取物 | ||
北美金缕梅提取物 | ||
白藜芦醇 | 可导致G0/G1期皮脂腺细胞比例增加,抑制皮脂腺细胞生长成熟,减少皮脂的产生 | [ |
肉毒杆菌毒素 | 乙酰胆碱的表达量与皮脂的分泌量呈正相关,肉毒杆菌毒素可竞争乙酰胆碱受体,减少乙酰胆碱与皮脂腺上乙酰胆碱受体的结合 | [ |
土茯苓提取物 | 通过调节5α-还原酶的活性动态调节皮脂的分泌 | [ |
维生素A及其衍生物 | 通过调节上皮细胞生长、分化和角化过程,减少因皮脂成分改变而导致的痤疮形成 | [ |
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