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当期目录

    2020年, 第50卷, 第2期 刊出日期:2020-02-22 上一期    下一期
    基础研究
    全氟环醚-甘油乳液的制备和性能研究
    Preparation and properties of perfluorocycloether/ glycerol emulsions
    张翌强, 白艳云, 王万绪, 王国永
    2020 (2):  71-75.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.02.001
    摘要 ( 447 )   HTML ( 99 )   PDF(1539KB) ( 302 )  

    研究了全氟环醚-甘油乳液的制备方法,并对乳液的稳定性进行了探究。采用甘油作为连续相,全氟环醚为分散相,并选择3种表面活性剂(AES、APG和SDS)作为乳化剂,在10 000 r/min下乳化5 min,得到稳定的乳液。乳液在 6 000 r/min速度下离心1 h保持稳定。经过冷热储藏稳定性实验(40 ℃,-5~-10 ℃,24 h),乳液仍能保持稳定。另外于室温下静置3个月,乳液仍能保持稳定不分层。之后通过动态光散射粒度测试仪分析其粒径变化,研究表明,乳液的粒径变化符合奥氏熟化规律。其次用透射电镜观察了乳液的微观形貌及在3周内的粒径变化,与粒度测试仪的结果相互验证,证明SDS所稳定的乳液是三种乳液中最稳定的。最后研究了乳液的流变学性能,证明AES和SDS所稳定的乳液是基于黏性的黏弹性流体,而APG所稳定的乳液则是以黏性为主,也验证了SDS所稳定的乳液是最稳定的。

    The perfluorocycloether/glycerol emulsions were prepared and their stability was studied. Glycerol was used as the continuous phase, and perfluorocycloether was used as the dispersed phase. Three surfactants (AES, APG and SDS) were selected as emulsifiers. The systems were emulsified at 10 000 r/min for 5 min to obtain stable emulsions. The emulsions were stable after centrifugation at 6 000 r/min for 1 h. After the hot and cold storage stability test (40 ℃, -5 - -10 ℃, 24 h), the emulsions could still remain stable. In addition, after standing at room temperature for 3 months, the emulsions remained stable and did not show phase separation. Then, the particle size change was studied by dynamic light scattering particle size analyzer. The results showed that the particle size change of the emulsions obeyed the Ostwald ripening rule. Secondly, the microscopic morphology of the emulsions and the particle size change within 3 weeks were observed by transmission electron microscopy, the results of which were consistent with those of the particle size analyzer. It proved that the emulsion stabilized with SDS was the most stable among the three emulsions. Finally, the rheological properties of the emulsions were studied. It proved that the emulsions stabilized with AES and SDS were based on viscous viscoelastic fluids, while the emulsion stabilized with APG was mainly based on viscosity. It was also verified that the emulsion stabilized with SDS was the most stable.

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    百子莲脱水素蛋白对人皮肤细胞损伤的保护作用
    Protection of human skin cells against stress damage by use of Y2SK2 and SK3 type dehydrins from Agapanthus praecox
    吕可,李婧,张荻
    2020 (2):  76-85.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.02.002
    摘要 ( 374 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF(1593KB) ( 653 )  

    应用角质形成细胞(HaCaT)与成纤维细胞(NHSF)建立脱水、光老化及氧化应激模型评价百子莲Y2SK2与SK3型脱水素蛋白对人皮肤细胞在不同胁迫条件下的保护功能。结果表明:0.01~10 μmol/L为两种脱水素的安全作用浓度。光老化与氧化应激模型会造成人皮肤细胞发生氧化损伤与细胞凋亡。10 μmol/L ApSK3可将皮肤细胞超低温冻存后细胞活性提升57%~91%。ApSK3可明显改善皮肤细胞在脱水处理中的胁迫损伤,两种脱水素在光老化与氧化应激模型中对皮肤细胞均有抗氧化保护作用,可显著降低细胞中MDA含量约10%~36%,提升HaCaT细胞的SOD酶活性;ApSK3可有效抑制皮肤细胞在氧化胁迫下的casepase-3与casepase-8的酶活性,降低细胞程序性死亡事件发生。该研究发现脱水素蛋白在胁迫伤害中对人皮肤细胞具有保护作用,其机制可能与增强细胞抗氧化性以及参与细胞凋亡过程有关。

    Normal human skin fibroblast (NHSF) cells and HaCaT cells were applied to establish evaluation models of dehydration, light-aging and oxidative stress. Based on the models, the protective effects of Y2SK2 and SK3 type dehydrins from Agapanthus praecox (ApY2SK2 and ApSK3) on human skin cells were studied. The results showed that, the safe concentration of dehydrins was 0.01-10 μmol/L. Light-aging and oxidative stress could cause oxidative damage and apoptosis of human skin cells. 10 μmol/L ApSK3 could increase the activity of skin cells by 57%-91% after cryopreservation. ApSK3 could significantly improve the activity of skin cells under dehydration. Both the two dehydrins provided anti-oxidative protection for skin cells in the models of light-aging and oxidative stress, in which the level of malondialdehyde was decreased by 10%-36% and the activity of SOD was significantly increased for HaCaT cells. The activity of casepase-3 and casepase-8 was decreased by ApSK3 according to the oxidative stress model, and the occurrence of programmed cell death was reduced. The research showed that, Y2SK2 and SK3 type dehydrins from Agapanthus praecox could protect human skin cells against stress damage, the mechanism of which could possibly be related to the enhanced cell anti-oxidation and their participation in the process of cell apoptosis.

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    科技讲座
    两亲聚合物设计合成及其增效体系研究(Ⅱ)— 两亲聚合物的合成理论与方法
    Study on the design and synthesis of amphiphilic polymers and their synergistic systems (II)Theories and methods of the synthesis of amphiphilic polymers
    康万利,谢安清,周博博,王芳,张向锋,杨红斌
    2020 (2):  86-91.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.02.003
    摘要 ( 311 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF(834KB) ( 295 )  

    两亲聚合物以其独特的分子结构和疏水缔合效应,应用于复杂油藏开采,并取得了良好的应用效果。通过文献调研以及本团队近几年的研究成果,综述了两亲聚合物合成理论与方法的研究现状,主要包括两亲聚合物的发展和合成方法两方面。两亲聚合物的发展介绍了其由来历程;两亲聚合物的合成方法主要阐述了目前几种合成两亲聚合物的方法,包括(非)均相合成法、微乳液聚合法、无皂自由基共聚法、自由基胶束共聚法。最后,总结了4种合成方法的优点和缺点,并对两亲聚合物合成方法的未来发展趋势进行展望:随着两亲聚合物合成理论日趋成熟,合成方式会更加多样高效,合成的两亲聚合物性能也会更加优良,其在复杂油藏中的使用也会得到进一步拓展。

    Amphiphilic polymers have been applied to the exploitation of complex oil reservoirs due to their unique spatial architecture and hydrophobic association effects, and have achieved good application results. Based on the literature survey and the research results of our team in recent years, the current status of theories and methods for the synthesis of amphiphilic polymer has been reviewed, which mainly includes the development of amphiphilic polymers and their synthetic methods. The development process of amphiphilic polymers has been introduced; the current synthetic methods of amphiphilic polymers have been described, including heterogeneous/homogeneous synthesis, microemulsion polymerization, soap-free free-radical copolymerization, and free-radical micelle copolymerization. Finally, the advantages and disadvantages of the four synthetic methods are summarized, and the future development trend of synthetic methods is prospected. As the theories of synthesis of amphiphilic polymers gradually mature, the synthetic methods will become more diverse and efficient. The polymer performance will also be better, and their use in complex oil reservoirs will be further expanded.

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    开发与应用
    无机盐对窄分布醇醚羧酸盐性能影响
    Effect of inorganic salt on the properties of narrow distribution alcohol ether carboxylate
    徐福利,张威,王丰收
    2020 (2):  92-97.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.02.004
    摘要 ( 301 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF(949KB) ( 432 )  

    研究了无机盐(NaCl、CaCl2、MgCl2、KCl、NH4Cl、ZnCl2)对氧化法窄分布醇醚羧酸钠(NAEC3/5/7/9) (EO加合数3/5/7/9)水溶液表面张力、润湿、泡沫、乳化、去污、缓蚀性能的影响。结果表明,无机盐对NAEC性能影响显著。无机盐均显著降低了体系的表面张力,二价盐降低幅度大于一价盐;无机盐加入均能增强对帆布片的润湿作用,CaCl2及ZnCl2增强作用最强,尤其是ZnCl2可以将NAEC9润湿时间由不润湿缩短至173 s;除CaCl2能够显著增强发泡性和稳泡性外,其他氯盐均加快了泡沫的破灭;其中NH4Cl对大豆油乳化作用破坏最为显著;无机盐的加入对炭黑及皮脂污渍去除不利,有利于蛋白污渍的去除;对于不同EO数NAEC,0.2%的CaCl2加入量可使NAEC5润湿时间由27 s缩短至5 s。

    The effect of inorganic salt (NaCl, CaCl2, MgCl2, KCl, NH4Cl, ZnCl2) on the surface tension, wettability, foam, emulsification, decontamination and corrosion inhibition performance of narrow distribution alcohol ether carboxylate sodium (NAEC, EO number 3/5/7/9) aqueous solution were investigated. The results show that the inorganic salts have a significant influence on NAEC property. Inorganic salts significantly reduced the surface tension, and divalent salt had a better reduction effect than monovalent salt. The addition of inorganic salt could enhance the wetting effect on canvas, and the enhancement effect of CaCl2 and ZnCl2 was the strongest. In particular, ZnCl2 shortened the wetting time of NAEC9 from non-wetting to 173 s. Except for CaCl2, which significantly enhanced foaming and foam stability, other chloride salts accelerated the collapse of the foam. NH4Cl had the most significant effect on the emulsification of soybean oil. Inorganic salts were not good for the removal of black carbon and sebum stains, but good for the removal of protein stains. For NAEC5 with different EO numbers, the addition of 0.2% CaCl2 reduced the wetting time from 27 s to 5 s.

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    醇对微乳形成的影响以及无醇橄榄油润唇啫喱的研究
    Effects of alcohols on the formation of microemulsions and the study on alcohol-free olive oil lip gel
    张迪,张菁,谭笑,景盼盼,叶丹,张云澍,田青平
    2020 (2):  98-106.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.02.005
    摘要 ( 454 )   HTML ( 17 )   PDF(1304KB) ( 359 )  

    通过伪三元相图绘制,油/水界面张力及微乳理化性质考察,油的组成及结构规律分析,探讨助表面活性剂(CoS)即醇对微乳形成的影响规律,并将无醇橄榄油(OL)微乳凝胶用于润唇啫喱研究。结果表明,CoS在不同油的微乳中均起到提高界面流动性,避免凝胶、液晶状态产生的作用。对不含-OH油,适当比例的CoS能够提高微乳面积;对含-OH油,可能油/水界面分子间易形成氢键,降低界面张力,提高界面稳定性,CoS的加入会竞争油/水氢键作用,不利于微乳形成。利用无醇微乳易成凝胶的特性,以m(油相)∶m(表面活性剂)=4∶6、含水量为50%的橄榄油/维生素E琥珀酸酯双连续型微乳为载体,所得润唇啫喱平均粒径为(28.31±0.45) nm、黏度为(27.4±0.632) Pa·s、pH= 5.70±0.036,外观呈粉色透明凝胶状,稳定安全;且轻薄水润、易吸收。

    The effects of co-surfactants (CoS), i.e. alcohols, on the formation of microemulsions were investigated by the pseudo-ternary phase diagram, the oil/water interfacial tension, the physicochemical properties of microemulsions and the analysis of composition and structure of oils. The gel based on a CoS-free olive oil microemulsion was applied for the research and development of the lip gel. The results showed that CoS could improve the interfacial fluidity of microemulsions of different structural oils to avoid gelation and liquid crystallization. For the oils without -OH, the proper proportion of CoS could expand the region of microemulsion. For the oils containing -OH, the oil/water interface might be easy to form intermolecular hydrogen bonds, which reduced interfacial tension and improved the stability of the interface, but the CoS added would compete with the oil/water hydrogen bonding, which was not conducive to the formation of the microemulsion. Taking advantage of the tendency of alcohol-free microemulsions to form gels, a bicontinuous microemulsion of olive oil-vitamin E succinate with a mass ratio of oil phase to surfactant of 4∶6 and a water content of 50% was selected as the carrier. The lip gel obtained, which was stable and safe, had the mean particle size of (28.31±0.45) nm, the viscosity of (27.4±0.632) Pa·s, the pH of 5.70±0.036, and the appearance of pink transparent gel. It was light, hydrated, and easily absorbed.

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    脂肪酶对水基油墨清洗剂洗涤能力的影响研究
    Study on the effects of lipase on the detergency of the water-based ink-cleaner
    刘腾,郑元林,葛纪者,杨伟栋,张朝忠
    2020 (2):  107-111.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.02.006
    摘要 ( 333 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF(984KB) ( 475 )  

    采用阴离子和非离子表面活性剂复配体系,研究了不同脂肪酶用量下的水基油墨清洗剂性能。通过稳定性、腐蚀性、净洗力以及泡沫性能对一系列脂肪酶型水基油墨清洗剂进行了评价,优化了配方组成。结果表明:所配制的脂肪酶型水基油墨清洗剂具有良好的高低温稳定性;脂肪酶用量对腐蚀性无影响,含有脂肪酶的油墨清洗剂具有良好的抗腐蚀性能;当脂肪酶用量为0.4%时,体系的净洗力最强、发泡力最低。

    The performance of water-based ink-cleaners at different lipase dosages was studied. Mixed systems of anionic and nonionic surfactants were used. A series of lipase-containing water-based ink-cleaners were evaluated in the aspects of stability, corrosion, cleansing power and foaming performance. The formulation was optimized. The results showed that the lipase-containing water-based ink-cleaners had good stability; the ink-cleaners containing lipase had good corrosion resistance, and the amount of lipase had no influence on corrosiveness; when the amount of lipase was 0.4%, the cleaning ability of the product was the best and the foaming power of the product was the minimum.

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    超细TiO2在硅油中的流变特性与紫外保护性能
    Rheological and UV protective properties of ultrafine TiO2 in silicone oil
    王优,左士祥,李霞章,刘文杰,徐荣,钟璟,姚超
    2020 (2):  112-117.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.02.007
    摘要 ( 326 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF(1133KB) ( 253 )  

    以超细TiO2为原料,PEG-10聚二甲基硅氧烷为分散剂,十甲基环五硅氧烷为溶剂,制备出超细TiO2分散浆。考察了分散剂用量对分散浆稳定性和黏度的影响。结果表明:当TiO2固含量为30%,分散剂用量为6%的条件下得到的分散浆黏度仅为57.20 mPa·s,触变性小,不易絮凝,稳定性高;以5%有效成分含量与凡士林混合模拟防晒霜,测得其防晒指数SPF为11,与TiO2粉体相比(SPF为9),分散浆的紫外保护性能显著提高。流变特性研究结果表明:分散浆黏度具有剪切稀化特性,为假塑性流体,其流动行为符合幂律模型。通过阿伦尼乌斯方程描述温度对黏度的影响,分散浆黏度随温度的升高而减小,随着固含量的增加,分散浆黏度对温度的敏感性增强。

    An ultrafine TiO2 dispersion slurry was prepared using ultrafine TiO2 as the raw material, PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane as the dispersant, and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane as the solvent. The effects of the amount of dispersant on the stability and viscosity of the dispersion slurry were studied in detail. The results indicated that, at a solid content of 30% and a dispersant dosage of 6%, the viscosity of the dispersion slurry was only 57.20 mPa·s, which had small thixotropy and high stability and was not easy to flocculate and settle. The sun protection factor (SPF) of the dispersion slurry was 11 with the active ingredient content of 5% in vaseline. The UV protective property of the slurry was significantly improved when compared with TiO2 powder whose SPF was merely 9. Rheological studies showed that the dispersion slurry was a pseudoplastic fluid with shear thinning characteristics. And the flow behavior could be fitted into the power law model. The effects of temperature on viscosity could be well described by the Arrhenius equation. It was found that the viscosity decreased with the increase of temperature. Moreover, the higher the solid content, the more sensitive the viscosity as changed with temperature.

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    专论与综述
    聚甘油脂肪酸酯的性质及其在化妆品中的应用
    Properties of polyglycerol fatty acid esters and its applications in cosmetics
    刘晓青,刘宇航,陈玉燕,蒋丽刚
    2020 (2):  118-123.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.02.008
    摘要 ( 1114 )   HTML ( 53 )   PDF(780KB) ( 1607 )  

    概述了聚甘油脂肪酸酯的合成、结构和性质,介绍了聚甘油脂肪酸酯在化妆品中的应用情况,包括卸妆类产品、清洁类产品、化妆水、O/W乳霜、W/O膏霜和彩妆产品,并展望了聚甘油脂肪酸酯产品的发展方向及其在化妆品行业中的应用前景。

    The synthesis, structure and properties of polyglycerol fatty acid esters were summarized, and the application of polyglycerol fatty acid esters in cosmetics was introduced, including makeup remover products, cleaning products, lotions, O/W creams, W/O creams and make up products. The development trend of polyglycerol fatty acid ester products and its broad application progress in the cosmetics industry were prospected.

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    微胶囊技术在化妆品中的应用进展
    Advances in the applications of microcapsules in cosmetics
    张慧娜,何一凡,李丽
    2020 (2):  124-128.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.02.009
    摘要 ( 1019 )   HTML ( 61 )   PDF(812KB) ( 1074 )  

    综述了微胶囊技术的发展,重点介绍了微胶囊在化妆品中应用的科研进展,并突出了微胶囊在化妆品市场中应用的实例。最后讨论了微胶囊技术所面临的挑战,并基于化妆品发展现状,阐述了微胶囊在化妆品领域未来发展方向。

    The development of microcapsule technology was reviewed, the research progress of microcapsules in cosmetics was emphasized, and the application examples of microcapsules in the cosmetics market were highlighted. Finally, the challenges of microcapsule technology were discussed. Based on the current development status of cosmetics, the future development direction of microcapsules in the field of cosmetics was described.

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    分析与检测
    气相色谱三重四极杆串联质谱法测定化妆品中24种致敏原
    Determination of 24 allergens in cosmetics by gas chromatography triple quadrupole mass spectrometry
    黄学泓,张林田,李冠斯
    2020 (2):  129-136.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.02.010
    摘要 ( 344 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF(1066KB) ( 467 )  

    建立了气相色谱三重四极杆质谱法同时测定化妆品中24种致敏原的分析方法。样品经甲醇超声提取,以多重反应监测模式(MRM)进行定性及定量分析。结果表明,24种致敏原在质量浓度0.1~10.0 mg/L范围内线性关系良好,相关系数r 2>0.993,阴性样品在三个质量浓度水平的加标平均回收率为81.8%~106.7%,相对标准偏差为1.3%~8.7%,方法的检出限为1~3 mg/kg,定量限为10 mg/kg。

    A simultaneous determination method was developed for the reliable screening, quantification and confirmation of 24 allergens in cosmetics by gas chromatography triple quadrupole mass spectrometry (GC-MS/MS) . The samples were ultrasonic extracted from cosmetics with methanol, and then qualitative and quantitative analysis was performed by GC-MS/MS under multi reaction monitor mode (MRM) . The results show that the 24 allergens have a good linear relationship in the range of 0.1-10.0 mg/L with correlative coefficients (r 2) larger than 0.993, and the average recoveries range from 81.8% to 106.7% at three spiked levels with relative standard deviations of 1.3%-8.7%. The detection limit is 1-3 mg/kg and the quantification limit is 10 mg/kg.

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    超高效液相色谱-串联质谱法快速测定化妆品中14种性激素
    Rapid determination of 14 sexual hormones in cosmetics by ultra high performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry
    李卓,饶雅琨,张荻悦,张亚锋,高安成,张海龙
    2020 (2):  137-142.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.02.011
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    建立了化妆品中14种性激素无基质效应影响的超高效液相-串联质谱分析方法。样品经饱和氯化钠分散后,采用乙腈提取,冷冻离心处理,用乙腈10倍稀释以消除基质效应影响后,以水-甲醇为流动相,梯度洗脱,采用多反应监测进行分析。结果显示,14种性激素在10~200 μg/L质量浓度范围内线性关系良好,相关系数(r)均在0.995以上,平均回收率为90.8%~115.2%。本方法准确,灵敏度高,专属性好,检出限低,可用于化妆品中14种性激素的定性及定量测定。

    A method of ultra high performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry was developed for simultaneous determination of 14 sexual hormones in cosmetics without matrix effects. After the sample was dispersed in saturated sodium chloride, it was extracted with acetonitrile, frozen and centrifuged, and diluted 10 times with acetonitrile to eliminate the matrix effect. The extracts were separated using gradient elution of water and methanol as mobile phase. The analysis of the target compounds was performed under multiple reaction monitoring. The results show that the 14 sexual hormones have a good linearity in the range of 10-200 μg/L with correlation coefficients (r) more than 0.995, and the average recoveries of the method are 90.8%-115.2%. This method is accurate, sensitive, specific, low detection limit and can be used for the qualitative and quantitative determinations of 14 kinds of sexual hormones in cosmetics.

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