通过伪三元相图绘制,油/水界面张力及微乳理化性质考察,油的组成及结构规律分析,探讨助表面活性剂(CoS)即醇对微乳形成的影响规律,并将无醇橄榄油(OL)微乳凝胶用于润唇啫喱研究。结果表明,CoS在不同油的微乳中均起到提高界面流动性,避免凝胶、液晶状态产生的作用。对不含-OH油,适当比例的CoS能够提高微乳面积;对含-OH油,可能油/水界面分子间易形成氢键,降低界面张力,提高界面稳定性,CoS的加入会竞争油/水氢键作用,不利于微乳形成。利用无醇微乳易成凝胶的特性,以m(油相)∶m(表面活性剂)=4∶6、含水量为50%的橄榄油/维生素E琥珀酸酯双连续型微乳为载体,所得润唇啫喱平均粒径为(28.31±0.45) nm、黏度为(27.4±0.632) Pa·s、pH= 5.70±0.036,外观呈粉色透明凝胶状,稳定安全;且轻薄水润、易吸收。
The effects of co-surfactants (CoS), i.e. alcohols, on the formation of microemulsions were investigated by the pseudo-ternary phase diagram, the oil/water interfacial tension, the physicochemical properties of microemulsions and the analysis of composition and structure of oils. The gel based on a CoS-free olive oil microemulsion was applied for the research and development of the lip gel. The results showed that CoS could improve the interfacial fluidity of microemulsions of different structural oils to avoid gelation and liquid crystallization. For the oils without -OH, the proper proportion of CoS could expand the region of microemulsion. For the oils containing -OH, the oil/water interface might be easy to form intermolecular hydrogen bonds, which reduced interfacial tension and improved the stability of the interface, but the CoS added would compete with the oil/water hydrogen bonding, which was not conducive to the formation of the microemulsion. Taking advantage of the tendency of alcohol-free microemulsions to form gels, a bicontinuous microemulsion of olive oil-vitamin E succinate with a mass ratio of oil phase to surfactant of 4∶6 and a water content of 50% was selected as the carrier. The lip gel obtained, which was stable and safe, had the mean particle size of (28.31±0.45) nm, the viscosity of (27.4±0.632) Pa·s, the pH of 5.70±0.036, and the appearance of pink transparent gel. It was light, hydrated, and easily absorbed.