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    2022年, 第52卷, 第5期 刊出日期:2022-05-22 上一期    下一期
    基础研究
    流变调节剂对W/O型乳液稳定性和流变性的影响
    Effects of rheological modifiers on the rheological properties and stability of W/O emulsions
    董蕾蕾,黄天怿,段国兰,陈晗俊,张婉萍,张倩洁
    2022 (5):  457-467.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.05.001
    摘要 ( 420 )   HTML ( 132 )   PDF(2035KB) ( 445 )  

    采用均质乳化法制备了W/O型乳液,研究了高分子水溶性聚合物(黄原胶、透明质酸钠)和油相增稠剂(山嵛酸甘油酯、二甲基二硬脂基铵锂蒙脱石)对W/O型乳液稳定性和流变性的影响。实验结果表明,添加黄原胶后,W/O型乳液在不同稳定性测试条件下的稳定性均下降;添加透明质酸钠后,乳液的常温储存稳定性下降,但一定程度上提升了乳液的高温储存稳定性;山嵛酸甘油酯加入W/O型乳液体系后,常温和高温储存的稳定性均增加;二甲基二硬脂基铵锂蒙脱石添加后,乳液在不同条件下稳定性均增强。高分子水溶性聚合物加入后,内水相黏度上升,但W/O型乳液的表观黏度显著降低且线性黏弹区范围缩小,这可能是由于内水相黏度升高阻碍乳化剂分子在油/水界面的吸附;油相增稠剂的添加均增加了W/O型乳液的表观黏度和线性黏弹区范围,这可能和乳化粒子粒径降低和油/水界面能的变化有关。此外,流变调节剂加入后,乳液的滞后环面积均有不同程度的降低。

    W/O emulsions were prepared by homogeneous emulsification method. The effects of water-soluble polymers (xanthan gum and sodium hyaluronate)and oil-phase thickeners (glyceryl behenate and dimethyl distearyl ammonium lithium-montmorillonite) on the stability and rheological properties of W/O emulsions were studied. The experimental results showed that the stability of W/O emulsions was decreased under different stability testing conditions after the addition of xanthan gum. When sodium hyaluronate was added, the storage stability of the emulsion was decreased at room temperature, but the storage stability at high temperature was improved. The storage stabilities at room temperature and high temperature were both increased when glyceryl behenate was added to the W/Oemulsions. With the addition of dimethyl distearyl ammonium lithium-montmorillonite, the stability of the emulsion was enhanced under different conditions. After the addition of water-soluble polymers, the water-phase viscosity was increased, but the apparent viscosity of W/O emulsions was significantly decreased and the range of linear viscoelastic region became narrow. This might be due to the increased viscosity of the inner water phase which prevented the adsorption of emulsifier molecules at the oil/water interface. The apparent viscosity and linear viscoelastic region of W/Oemulsions were both increased with the addition of oil-phase thickeners, which might be related to the decrease of emulsion droplet size and the change of oil-water interface energy. In addition, the hysteresis loop area of emulsions was decreased to different extent with the addition of rheological modifiers.

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    十六烷基三甲基溴化铵-珍珠粉相互作用及其稳定乳液的双重相转变
    The interaction of cetyltrimethyl ammonium bromide-pearl powder and its stabilization of the double phase inversion in emulsions
    张倩洁,沈兴亮,盛涛涛,张婉萍,许建营
    2022 (5):  468-475.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.05.002
    摘要 ( 199 )   HTML ( 22 )   PDF(1337KB) ( 279 )  

    系统研究了阳离子表面活性剂十六烷基三甲基溴化铵(CTAB)对生物质颗粒珍珠粉制备Pickering乳液的类型、微观结构的影响,同时解析了CTAB/珍珠粉稳定乳液从O/W型到W/O型再到O/W型的双重相转变现象。通过分散性观察、Zeta电位的测定、三相接触角和珍珠粉的荧光标记等手段深入剖析了CTAB与珍珠粉颗粒之间的相互影响。结果表明,在未添加CTAB和CTAB浓度较低时(0.01 mmol/L)时,珍珠粉能单独形成O/W型的Pickering乳液,乳化粒子为非球形且有一定聚结。当CTAB的浓度增加到0.05和0.20 mmol/L时,CTAB在珍珠粉表面吸附增强了颗粒的疏水性,润湿性的变化导致乳液类型从O/W型转变到W/O型,此时乳液的微观结构为球形,且尺寸分布较窄。随着CTAB浓度的进一步增加到0.90 mmol/L,CTAB在油水界面上取代吸附的珍珠粉颗粒,荧光显微镜观察验证了此时形成的O/W型乳液是由过量的CTAB来稳定。即通过简单地增加阳离子表面活性剂CTAB的浓度,就能实现乳液从O/W型到W/O型,再到O/W型的双重相转变。

    The effect of cationic surfactant cetyltrimethyl ammonium bromide (CTAB) on the type and microstructure of Pickering emulsions prepared with biomass-based pearl powder were systematically studied. The double phase inversion from O/W type to W/O type and then to O/W type of emulsions stabilized by CTAB/pearl powder was analyzed. The interaction between CTAB and pearl powder particles was analyzed by dispersion observation, Zeta potential determination, the three-phase contact angles characterization and fluorescent labeling of pearl powder. The results show that pearl powder can stabilize O/W Pickering emulsions when CTAB is not added or the concentration of CTAB is low (0.01 mmol/L), and the emulsion droplets are not spherical and have coalescence. When the concentration of CTAB increases to 0.05 mmol/L and 0.20 mmol/L, the adsorption of CTAB on the surface of pearl powder enhances the hydrophobicity of the particles, and the change of wettability leads to the phase inversion of the emulsion from O/W type to W/O type. At the same time, the microstructure of the emulsions is spherical and the size distribution is narrow. As the concentration of CTAB increases to 0.90 mmol/L, CTAB replaces the pearl powder particles at the oil-water interface. Fluorescence microscope observation verifies that the O/W emulsion formed is stabilized by excessive CTAB. That is, by simply increasing the concentration of CTAB, the emulsion can realize the double phase inversion from O/W type to W/O type, and then to O/W type.

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    科技讲座
    天然生物质材料的制备、性质与应用(Ⅴ)——生物相容性良好的功能蛋白质材料:胶原蛋白
    Preparation, properties and applications of natural biomass materials (Ⅴ)Functional protein material with excellent biocompatibility: collagen peptide
    樊建茹,亓玺,郝旸,王长运,徐桂云,范金石
    2022 (5):  476-485.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.05.003
    摘要 ( 326 )   HTML ( 24 )   PDF(1765KB) ( 502 )  

    胶原蛋白是一类从动物组织中提取的兼具营养和生理调节功能的多肽混合物。因具有低免疫原性、生物相容性、生物可降解性等特性以及保湿、美白、抗皱防衰等美容功能和降血脂、补钙等保健功能,而且可以通过物理、化学和与高分子材料共混等改性方法赋予其特定功能性质,胶原蛋白在医学生物、化妆品、保健品和食品等多个领域得到广泛应用。本文阐述了胶原蛋白的来源、类型和结构,以及理化性质、制备方法、改性技术及其典型功能与应用情况,并展望了胶原蛋白今后的研究开发方向。

    Collagen peptide, one kind of polypeptides mixture with both nutrition and physiological regulation function, is extracted from animal tissues. Collagen peptide can be seen as a hydrolyzed product of collagen, the main protein in connective tissues of animal, but with different microstructure from that of collagen. The three peptide chains of collagen are connected by covalent bond and hydrogen bond, and the three-strand helix structure remains intact, while the three-strand helix structure of collagen is completely loosened to form three unconnected single peptide chains as for collagen peptide. For possessing a large amount of excellent properties, such as low immunogenicity, biocompatibility, hemostatis, biodegradability, nutrition, moisture retention, skin whitening, anti-wrinkle, anti-aging, lipid-lowering, helpful to calcium-filling, as well as more powerful function could be obtained by physical, chemical modification and blending with natural and synthetic polymers. Collagen peptide has been extensively utilized in medicine, biology, cosmetics, health care industry, food and other fields. In this paper, the extracting source, type and molecular structure of collagen peptide, the physical and chemical properties, extracting methods, main modification technologies of collagen peptide, as well as its main functions and applications were introduced. The research trend and development prospect of collagen peptide were also pointed out.

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    开发与应用
    茶皂素的脱色及控油功效研究
    Study on the decolorization of tea saponin and its sebum control effect
    沈胡驰,杨莉,陈殿松,马铃,杨井国,王靖
    2022 (5):  486-492.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.05.004
    摘要 ( 478 )   HTML ( 36 )   PDF(1290KB) ( 427 )  

    以色泽较深的市售茶皂素为原料,采用H2O2氧化脱色法,基于H2O2用量、pH值、脱色温度/时间优化,茶皂素溶液脱色率可达91%,并发现脱色后茶皂素起泡/稳泡性能提升、细胞毒性显著下降。采用人永生化皮脂腺细胞(SZ95)模型研究了脱色后茶皂素抑制皮脂分泌的功效。结果显示,茶皂素(4 μg/mL)对SZ95细胞脂质合成的抑制率达24.87%;对于油酸/亚油酸刺激条件下的SZ95细胞脂质合成的抑制率达14.96%,且显著抑制了刺激条件下SZ95细胞促炎性细胞因子IL-8表达(抑制率为29.01%),表明茶皂素不仅能够显著抑制正常及刺激条件下SZ95细胞脂质合成,并且可抑制皮脂可能诱导的细胞炎症反应,有助于维护皮脂腺代谢平衡。进一步对含有2.5%茶皂素的产品进行了人体功效评价,结果显示使用该产品后6 h内志愿者皮肤水分含量和经皮失水无明显变化,而皮脂分泌量显著降低,表明含茶皂素产品可在不影响皮肤水分含量和屏障功能的前提下实现有效控油。本研究不仅有助于推动茶皂素在洗护产品中的实际应用,还发掘了茶皂素的控油新功效。

    The method of H2O2 oxidation was used for decolorization of the commercial raw tea saponin. By optimizing the H2O2 dosage, pH value and decolorization temperature/time, the decolorization rate of the tea saponin solution could reach up to 91%. Moreover, the decolorized tea saponin showed improved foaming property and significantly reduced cytotoxicity. Subsequently, the human immortalized sebaceous gland cell (SZ95) model was used to study the sebum control effects of decolorized tea saponin. The results showed that the lipid synthesis of SZ95 cells incubated under conventional conditions was inhibited by 24.87% in the presence of tea saponin (4 μg/mL). For the SZ95 cells incubated under oleic acid/linoleic acid stimulation conditions, the lipid synthesis was inhibited by 14.96% and the expression of IL-8 inflammatory factors in SZ95 was also reduced by 29.01%. Therefore, tea saponin can not only significantly inhibit the lipid synthesis of SZ95 cells under normal and stimulating conditions, but also reduce the cellular inflammatory response induced by sebum imbalance, thus possibly benefiting the metabolic balance of sebaceous gland. Finally, the efficacy evaluation of a cosmetic product containing 2.5% tea saponin was carried out based on volunteers. The results showed that within 6 hours after using the product, the skin moisture content and transdermal water loss of volunteers were not significantly changed, while the sebum secretion was significantly reduced, suggesting that effective sebum control can be achieved by tea saponin-containing products without affecting the skin's moisture content and barrier function. The present research may not only promote the practical application of tea saponin in cosmetic products, but also reveal the sebum control effect of tea saponin.

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    溶胶凝胶法制备布洛芬表面分子印迹聚合物及其性能研究
    Preparation of surface molecularly imprinted polymers with ibuprofen template by sol-gel method and their properties
    张莉,汪鑫,范维刚,粟智
    2022 (5):  493-498.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.05.005
    摘要 ( 164 )   HTML ( 19 )   PDF(1065KB) ( 218 )  

    采用溶胶凝胶表面分子印迹技术,以纳米级二氧化硅为载体,以布洛芬为模板分子,3-氨丙基三乙氧基硅烷(APTES)为功能单体,正硅酸乙酯(TEOS)为交联剂,合成了布洛芬分子印迹聚合物(MIPs)。使用扫描电镜(SEM)对合成的MIPs进行了形貌表征,通过静态吸附实验、动态吸附实验、选择性实验以及再生利用实验评价了MIPs对布洛芬的吸附性能。结果表明,MIPs对布洛芬可在150 min时达到吸附平衡,饱和吸附容量可达45.9 mg/g,印迹因子为1.7,与非分子印迹聚合物相比,MIPs对布洛芬具有特异性识别性能。此外,MIPs经过5次循环使用后,对布洛芬的吸附容量仍保持在初始的87.6%以上,有较好的重复利用性能,能够作为一种良好的对布洛芬具有高选择性和高吸附容量的新型吸附功能材料。

    Using ibuprofen as template molecule, 3-aminopropyl triethoxysilane (APTES) as functional monomer and ethyl orthosilicate (TEOS) as crosslinking agent, molecularly imprinted polymers (MIPs) were synthesized by sol-gel method and surface imprinting technology. The morphology of the synthesized MIPs was characterized by scanning electron microscopy (SEM). The adsorption behavior of ibuprofen on MIPs was evaluated by static and dynamic adsorption experiments, and the high selectivity of MIPs to ibuprofen was evaluated by selective experiment. The results showed that MIPs could achieve adsorption equilibrium with ibuprofen at 150 min, and the imprinted factor was 1.7, and the saturated adsorption capacity was 45.9 mg/g. Compared with non-imprinted polymers, MIPs had specific recognition and high selectivity for ibuprofen. In addition, the adsorption capacity of ibuprofen molecularly imprinted polymer prepared by sol-gel method was more than 87.6% after 5 cycles, indicative of good reusability. Therefore, the synthesized molecularly imprinted polymers have a good application prospect for the recognition and adsorption of ibuprofen.

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    十三氟辛醇接枝改性三聚氰胺树脂的合成及其疏水性能
    Preparation and hydrophobic properties of melamine-formaldehyde resin grafted by 1H,1H,2H,2H-Perfluoro-1-octanol
    高于洋,刘绍英,王庆印,王公应
    2022 (5):  499-505.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.05.006
    摘要 ( 174 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF(1564KB) ( 261 )  

    以1H,1H,2H,2H-十三氟-1-辛醇(PF-OH)为改性剂,三聚氰胺和多聚甲醛为原料,二甲基乙酰胺为反应介质,合成了一系列PF-OH接枝改性三聚氰胺树脂(MF-F)。FT-IR和固体13C NMR结果表明PF-OH与三聚氰胺树脂(MF树脂)成功接枝。采用XPS、接触角测定仪和TG对材料进行测定,结果表明:PF-OH的接枝提升MF-F材料的疏水性能,氟元素向材料的表面迁移并发生富集;当PF-OH的摩尔分数为3.0%(以三聚氰胺物质的量计),其水接触角由67.83°增至103.50°,表面自由能由44.5 mN/m降至21.1 mN/m。PF-OH的引入提高MF-F材料的热稳定性,其Td, 5%(失重5%温度)、Td, 80%(失重80%温度)和790 ℃时的残留率均提高。

    An anhydrous method was developed for the polymerization of 1H,1H,2H,2H-Perfluoro-1-octanol (PF-OH) grafted melamine-formaldehyde (MF-F) resin aiming at improving the hydrophobic performance of MF material and widening its downstream application. The MF-F resins were characterized by FT-IR and solid state 13C NMR, and it is found that PF-OH is grafted in MF resin matrix. From the results of XPS, the migration and enrichment of the fluorine moieties toward the surface of the MF-F film are verified. The hydrophobicity and thermal stability of MF-F materials were investigated by contact angle and TG analysis. Due to the grafting of PF-OH, the water contact angles of MF-F films increase from 67.83° to 103.50° and the surface free energy reduce from 44.5 to 21.1 mN/m. Furthermore, the TG results show that MF-F materials still exhibit excellent thermal stabilities.

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    日用化学品泡沫性能的多维度评价方法研究
    Study on multidimensional evaluation method of foam performance of daily chemicals
    徐杰,祝愿,徐项亮,鲍红洁
    2022 (5):  506-513.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.05.007
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    介绍了动态泡沫分析的测试方法和测试原理,并开展了表面活性剂常用原料、洗衣液、洗发水和牙膏等常规日化产品的泡沫性能研究。在动态泡沫的测试中,基于不同样品设置了差异化的测试程序,监测了整个测试周期内泡沫高度、泡沫体积、每平方毫米气泡个数、气泡平均面积、气泡平均半径等参数随时间的演化关系,计算出体积消泡率、气泡个数变化率等反映泡沫稳定性的相关参数。利用高度测试模块中泡沫体积、泡沫高度等参数的分析评价了各样品的发泡能力;通过结构测试模块中气泡个数、平均气泡面积、平均气泡半径等参数的分析评价了各样品的泡沫微观特性;同时结合高度测试和结构测试双模块中持久值、体积消泡率、气泡个数变化率、半衰期等多角度评价了各样品的泡沫稳定性。由此经双模块测试中各参数的协同分析实现了产品发泡快慢、泡沫多少、泡沫大小和稳定性等泡沫性能的多维度评价。

    For daily chemical cleaning products, the size, compactness and stability of the foam can be easily perceived by consumers, which may even directly affect the comprehensive evaluation of the products. Therefore, the evaluation of foam performance is very important. Herein, the testing method and principle of dynamic foam analysis were introduced. The transmission light could be measured with time using LED panel and side line sensor. The liquid/foam and foam/air boundaries could be detected by light intensity difference, and the foam decay process in the measurement cycle could be read out through the line sensor. This testing method was used to test the foams of common raw materials of surfactants and conventional daily cleaning products such as laundry detergents, shampoos, and toothpastes. Differentiated test procedures were set for different samples. Then the evolution of foam height (hfoam), foam volume (Vfoam), number of bubbles per square millimeter (BC), average area of bubbles (MBA), average radius of bubbles (Ravg) and other parameters over time was monitored in the whole test period. Through the analysis of foam volume, foam height and other parameters in the height test module, the foaming abilities of the products were evaluated; by analyzing the number of bubbles, the average bubble area and the average bubble radius in the structure test module, the foam micro-structure was evaluated; the foam stability was evaluated by analyzing the parameters of foam volume fraction, maximum foam liquid carrying capacity, half-life of bubbles, etc. Therefore, based on the characteristics of daily chemical products, setting up different automatic test programs and analyzing the foam performance with the combination of the parameters in each test module can effectively realize the multi-dimensional evaluation of foam performance, so as to guide the development and optimization of new products.

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    一种O/W型微乳液纳米载体的制备及其对大麻二酚包覆的性能研究
    Preparation of an O/W microemulsion nano-carrier and its performance in cannabidiol encapsulation
    谢志辉,刘建中,宁浩良,于元昊,陈亚敏,彭淑鸽
    2022 (5):  514-520.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.05.008
    摘要 ( 261 )   HTML ( 18 )   PDF(1284KB) ( 359 )  

    为了获得一种稳定的活性物包覆的纳米载体,以PolyAquol LW为非离子表面活性剂,丁二醇为助表面活性剂,霍霍巴油为油相;采用滴油法,以丁达尔现象作为澄清透明微乳液临界点判断的依据,绘制了PolyAquol LW/丁二醇/霍霍巴油/H2O的水包油(O/W)型微乳液的伪三元体系相图。根据伪三元相图,确定了水包油型微乳液的最佳制备条件;以脂溶性大麻二酚作为模型活性物,制备了大麻二酚微乳液。研究了大麻二酚微乳液的表面张力、粒径分布以及透光率,考察了温度、高速离心对大麻二酚微乳液稳定性的影响。结果表明:当PolyAquol LW/丁二醇质量比(ζ)为2:1,PolyAquol LW质量分数为1%时,霍霍巴油最大载油量的质量分数为9.09%;以此微乳液为载体包覆大麻二酚时,大麻二酚最大负载量可达1.62 mg/mL,此时表面张力降低至41.2 mN/m;稳定性研究结果表明:微乳液经过10 000 r/min离心20 min或者60 ℃放置3 h,依然能稳定存在且不分层,透光率几乎不变。本研究以微乳液为载体可以实现化妆品活性物的纳米包覆,在化妆品的开发与应用方面具有重要价值。

    To obtain a stable nano-carrier suitable for the encapsulation of active substances, an oil-in-water (O/W)microemulsion was prepared with PolyAquol LW as a non-ionic surfactant, butanediol as the cosurfactant, and jojoba oil as the oil phase. Pseudo-ternary phase diagram was plotted by the oil titration method, and the critical point of the as-obtained microemulsion was determined by the Tyndall effect. According to the pseudo-ternary phase diagram of the O/W microemulsion, the optimum preparation condition of the O/W microemulsion was determined. Then the oil-soluble cannabidiol (CBD) was selected as model active substance to prepare the cannabidiol microemulsion. The surface tension, particle size distribution and transmittance of the CBD microemulsion were measured. The effects of temperature and high-speed centrifugation on the stability of the CBD microemulsion were also investigated. The results showed that the maximum loading of jojoba oil was 9.09% when the mass ratio of PolyAquol LW/butanediol (ζ) was 2:1 and the mass fraction of PolyAquol LW was 1%; when such microemulsion was used as the carrier, the maximum loading of CBD could reach 1.62 mg/mL, and the minimum surface tension was 41.2 mN/m. The stability results showed that the CBD microemulsion could still remain stable without phase separation, and the light transmittance almost remained unchanged after centrifugation at 10 000 r/min for 20 min or being placed at -18 and 60 ℃ for 3 h, indicative of the excellent stability of CBD microemulsion. This work suggests that this microemulsion as a nano-carrier can realize the effective encapsulating of active substances in cosmetics, which has important value in the development and application of cosmetic products.

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    三羟基硬脂精在二合一香波中的应用
    Research on application of trihydroxystearin in 2-in-1 shampoo
    钟欢欢,陈烨婷,陈幼婷,于田,黎如,龚盛昭
    2022 (5):  521-528.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.05.009
    摘要 ( 1118 )   HTML ( 20 )   PDF(1246KB) ( 318 )  

    三羟基硬脂精常用作植物油、食用色拉油和烹调油的抗结晶剂,并具有更安全、成本更低等优点。研究发现将其作为悬浮剂应用于二合一洗发香波中,相比常用的香波悬浮剂,生产工艺操作简便,成本更低。本文对三羟基硬脂精、卡波姆(Carbomer 940)、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10~30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物(Ultrez 21)、丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物(Aqua SF-1)和二(氢化牛脂基)邻苯二甲酸酰胺(TAB-Ⅱ)在二合一香波中的应用进行了研究,对三羟基硬脂精在实际应用过程中对二合一香波的稳定性、泡沫力、梳理性、黏度和产品使用体验感进行了数据化表征。同时,通过红细胞溶血实验和人体安全性斑贴实验对三羟基硬脂的刺激性进行研究。结果表明,三羟基硬脂精具有较高的温和性,并能够缓解香波的刺激性;添加0.2%的三羟基硬脂精作为悬浮剂便可以制得稳定的含珠光片、硅油、吡硫鎓锌的二合一香波,且不影响香波的使用感受。

    Trihydroxystearin is a kind of food additive which is safe and inexpensive. It has been widely used as an anti-crystallizer for many types of oils, such as vegetable oil and edible salad oil. In daily chemical products, trihydroxystearin can effectively provide thixotropy and prevent the occurrence of sedimentation. Recent research has shown that it can be used as a suspending agent in wash and protect, two-in-one shampoos. As a suspending agent, trihydroxystearin is effective to suspend silicone oil, pearlescent agents, anti-dandruff agents and other shampoo components. Compared with other commonly used suspending agents for shampoos, trihydroxystearin is more convenient and has less influence on the physical and chemical properties of the shampoos. Herein, a comparative study for the application of trihydroxystearin and other suspending agents, such as carbomer (Carbomer 940), acrylate/C10~30 alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer (Ultrez 21), acrylate copolymer (Aqua SF-1) and dihydrogenated tallow phthalic acid amide (TAB-Ⅱ), in 2-in-1 shampoo was made. Carbomer 940 and Ultrez 21 tend to absorb moisture and agglomerate. For Aqua SF-1, it is difficult to eliminate the foam produced by shearing and stirring in large-scale production, which leads to long de-foaming time and high energy consumption. TAB-Ⅱ can reduce the foaming properties and cleaning ability of shampoos. Therefore, trihydroxystearin is more suitable for use as a suspending agent in a lotion, and as a stabilizer in a two-in-one shampoo compared with the chemicals mentioned above. The results show that, stable two-in-one shampoo can be made by adding 0.2% trihydroxystearin as the suspending agent, the amount of which is less than other suspending agents. The safety of trihydroxystearin was studied by using the red blood cell hemolysis test and the human safety patch test. The results show that trihydroxystearin can decrease the irritation of surfactants in the red blood cell hemolysis test, and it has not irritation to the skin in the human safety patch test, indicating that it is safe. Finally, the sensory evaluation of the shampoo with trihydroxystearin was carried out. It is found that there is no significant difference in the feeling of washing in the sensory evaluation test versus other products. In conclusion, trihydroxystearin is more convenient and effective as a suspending agent in the shampoo, and it is safe and has less impact to the physical and chemical properties of the shampoo than other chemicals.

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    基于BioOcullar®模型的清洁类化妆品眼刺激性评价方法的建立
    Establishment of an evaluation method for eye irritation of cleansers based on BioOcullar® model
    何立成,孙叶丹,朱社敏,匡荣
    2022 (5):  529-533.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.05.010
    摘要 ( 186 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF(1123KB) ( 300 )  

    旨在建立基于重建人角膜样上皮模型BioOcullar®的清洁类化妆品眼刺激性评价方法,其原理是在模型表面涂抹受试物,暴露一定时间后根据角膜细胞的存活率来评价受试物眼刺激性程度。用3批已知刺激性(家兔法)的清洁类化妆品对该方法的相关条件进行探索,选择合适的暴露时间和后孵育时间,结果表明暴露60 min无后孵育时间最为合适。另取12批已知刺激性(家兔法)的清洁类化妆品对该方法进行验证并确定判定标准,根据三次评价结果确定判定标准为:无刺激性:存活率≥60%;轻刺激性:15%≤存活率<60%;刺激性:存活率<15%。最后用该方法对12批未知刺激性的清洁类化妆品进行预测,并与家兔法结果进行比较,结果显示体内外一致率为91.7%(11/12)。结果表明本研究建立的评价方法能较好地区分清洁类化妆品的眼刺激性。

    Cleansers are essential daily basic cosmetics, and these products contain a high level of surfactants, which have a certain degree of eye irritation. When evaluating the eye irritation of cosmetics using the Draize test, such samples can cause hyperemia and edema of conjunctiva and changes of cornea opacity of rabbits. In order to reduce the harm to rabbits, an in vitro evaluation method was established. BioOcullar® is the first commercially available reconstructed human cornea-like epithelium model developed by a Chinese company. This model has been identified as a useful tool for the testing of irritancy. The test protocol has also been developed for chemicals. However, this protocol is not suitable for cosmetic formulations, therefore in this study a method for evaluating the eye irritation of cleansers was established based on BioOcullar®. The chemicals under test were applied to three tissues, and the tissue viability was measured after exposure and a post-treatment incubation period. Firstly, the exposure time and post-incubation time should be optimized according to the barrier function of the tissue. Secondly, the acceptance criteria should also be considered. Three batches of cleansers with known irritation (Draize test) were used to explore the relevant conditions of the method and to select the appropriate exposure time and post-treatment incubation period. The results showed that, 60 min of exposure was the most suitable, and the presence of post-treatment incubation period could reduce the sensitivity of the method. Another 12 batches of cleansers with known irritation (Draize test) were used to validate the method and determine the criteria. According to the evaluation results for three times, the acceptance criteria were: no irritation: viability≥60%; mild irritation: 15%≤viability<60%; irritation: viability<15%. Finally, the method was used to predict 12 batches of cleansers with unknown irritation and compared with the results of the Draize test with an in vitro/in vivo agreement rate of 91.7% (11/12). The results indicate that the evaluation method established in this study can differentiate the eye irritation of cleansers.

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    小球藻发酵产物抗衰老功效研究及安全性评价
    Study on the anti-aging efficacy and safety evaluation of Chlorella fermentation product
    李海军,马双双,郑德强,张英华,王庆波,薛泽
    2022 (5):  534-538.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.05.011
    摘要 ( 440 )   HTML ( 17 )   PDF(1071KB) ( 456 )  

    以小球藻为底物材料,利用植物乳杆菌,发酵制备了小球藻发酵产物化妆品原料。以小球藻发酵产物为研究对象,通过人成纤维细胞增殖试验、Ⅰ型胶原蛋白含量检测试验以及ABTS自由基清除试验等,对其体外抗衰老功效进行了研究,并通过人体封闭式斑贴试验对其安全性进行评价。结果显示,体积分数为10%的小球藻发酵产物能够提高人皮肤成纤维细胞的存活率,可达到185.71%±2.25%(P<0.01),同时能够提高该细胞合成Ⅰ型胶原蛋白的能力,是阴性对照的(4.43±0.34)倍(P<0.01);小球藻发酵产物能有效清除ABTS自由基,且呈剂量依赖性模型,当体积分数达到40.5%时,对ABTS自由基的清除率达到62.73%±1.4%(P<0.01);人体封闭式斑贴试验结果显示小球藻发酵产物具有较好的皮肤安全性。实验表明,小球藻发酵产物具有较好的抗衰老功效且对人体具有较好的安全性。

    Chlorella is a kind of single-celled green algae, which is rich in high-quality protein, linolenic acid, polysaccharides, nucleotides, peptides, vitamins, trace elements and other substances, showing anti-virus, anti-cancer, anti-oxidation, anti-inflammatory functions, etc. Its nutrient composition and biological activity are becoming a research hotspot in recent years. Herein, Chlorella was used as a substrate material to produce Chlorella ferment for cosmetics by fermentation with Lactobacillus plantarum. Taking the Chlorella fermentation product as the research object, the study on its anti-aging effect in vitro and evaluation of its safety were carried out through a variety of methods such as human fibroblast proliferation test, type Ⅰ collagen content test (ELISA), ABTS free radical scavenging test and the human body closed patch test. The results showed that the Chlorella fermentation product with a volume fraction of 10% could increase the survival rate of human skin fibroblasts, reaching 185.71%±2.25% (P<0.01), and meanwhile the ability of human skin fibroblasts to synthesize type I collagen was improved, which was 4.43±0.34 times of the negative control (P<0.01). The Chlorella fermentation product could effectively scavenge ABTS free radicals in a dose-dependent model. When the volume fraction reached 40.5%, the scavenging rate against ABTS free radicals reached 62.73%±1.4% (P<0.01). The results of the human closed patch test showed that the Chlorella fermentation product had good skin safety. In summary, the Chlorella fermentation product can promote the proliferation of human fibroblasts, increase the content of type I collagen, and scavenge ABTS free radicals, thereby exhibiting good anti-aging effects and good safety to the human body. This provides a better basis for the development and utilization of Chlorella in the field of cosmetics.

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    黄连上清胶囊联合抗敏牙膏治疗慢性牙周炎效果及对Th17/Treg、复发的影响
    Effect of Huanglian Shangqing Capsules combined with anti-allergic toothpaste in the treatment of chronic periodontitis
    蒋菁,顾长明
    2022 (5):  539-544.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.05.012
    摘要 ( 260 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF(1202KB) ( 194 )  

    研究黄连上清胶囊联合高露洁专效抗敏牙膏治疗慢性牙周炎(CP)效果及对辅助性T细胞17/调节性T细胞(Th17/Treg)、复发的影响。选取CP患者134例,采用简单随机化法分为对照组(n=67)和观察组(n=67),分别给予高露洁专效抗敏牙膏、黄连上清胶囊+高露洁专效抗敏牙膏。观察两组治疗效果、不良反应、复发情况及治疗前后牙周袋深度(PD)、牙龈指数(GI)、龈沟出血指数(SBI)、吹气刺激敏感值(BST)、Th17/Treg细胞水平、牙龈卟啉单胞菌(PG)、乳酸杆菌(LB)。结果显示,治疗4周后,观察组治疗总有效率高于对照组(P<0.05);治疗4周后观察组PD、PLI、GI、BST值低于对照组(P<0.05);治疗4周后观察组Th17、Treg细胞及PGLB水平低于对照组(P<0.05);两组不良反应及复发率比较差异无统计学意义(P>0.05)。黄连上清胶囊联合高露洁专效抗敏牙膏有利于下调CP患者Th17/Treg细胞水平,阻止细菌定植,改善牙周症状,提高治疗效果,且安全性高。

    The study aimed to investigate the effect of Huanglian Shangqing Capsule combined with Colgate special anti-allergic toothpaste on the treatment of chronic periodontitis (CP) and its effect on helper T cell 17/regulatory T cell (Th17/Treg) and recurrence. A total of 134 CP patients in the Hospital from October 2019 to October 2021 were selected and divided into the control group (n=67) and the observation group (n=67) by simple randomization, and were given Colgate special anti-allergic toothpaste and Shangqing Capsule+Colgate special anti-allergic toothpaste, respectively. The treatment effect, adverse reactions, recurrence, and periodontal pocket depth (PD), gingival index (GI), gingival crevicular bleeding index (SBI), insufflation sensitivity (BST), Th17/Treg cell levels, Porphyromonas gingivalisPG), and LactobacillusLB) before and after treatment were observed in the two groups. After 4 weeks of treatment, the total effective rate of the observation group is higher than that of the control group (P<0.05). The PD, PLI, GI and BST values of the observation group are lower than those of the control group (P<0.05). The levels of Th17/Treg cells, PG and LB in the observation group are lower than those in the control group (P<0.05). There is no significant difference in adverse reactions and recurrence rates between the two groups (P>0.05). Huanglian Shangqing Capsules combined with Colgate anti-allergic toothpaste is beneficial to down-regulate the level of Th17/Treg cells in CP patients, prevent bacterial colonization, improve periodontal symptoms, and improve the therapeutic effect, and it has high safety.

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    葡萄籽发酵液抗衰老及美白功效研究
    Study on the anti-aging and whitening effects of grape seed fermentation broth
    王冬冬,孙倩茹,王子文,方嘉璇,李萌,王昌涛
    2022 (5):  545-552.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.05.013
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    利用微生物发酵技术,将葡萄籽以红酒酵母发酵得到葡萄籽发酵液,选用抗衰模式生物秀丽隐杆线虫,建立小鼠黑素瘤细胞美白模型,从细胞水平与分子水平层面探究葡萄籽发酵液在抗衰老和美白方面的功效作用,并对葡萄籽发酵液进行安全性评定。研究结果显示葡萄籽发酵液能够有效抵御衰老并抑制黑色素生成,具有抗衰、美白效果以及良好的安全性,具备成为化妆品功效原料的应用潜力。

    As the largest by-products of the grape processing industry, the development and utilization of grape seeds has become one of the urgent problems to be solved. Grape seeds are rich in active substances, which have the functions of anti-oxidation, anti-aging, anti-radiation and whitening. They can remove excessive oxygen free radicals produced by the body under oxidative stress conditions, and reduce the skin injury caused by external radiation and environmental pollution, which have a potential role in skin care. In this study, grape seeds were fermented using microbial fermentation technology with red wine yeast to obtain grape seed fermentation broth. The anti-aging model organism C.elegans was selected, and a mouse melanoma cell whitening model was established to explore the anti-aging and whitening effects of grape seeds from the cellular and molecular levels. Research results show that grape seed fermentation broth can effectively resist aging and inhibit melanin production, which has anti-aging and whitening effects. It also has good safety, and has the application potential as cosmetic functional raw materials. The by-products of grape processing have been reused, and its potential application value has been discovered, which is in line with the concept of green development.

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    互联网背景下日化品牌跨界营销对消费者行为的影响研究
    Research on the impact of cross-border marketing of daily chemical brands on consumer behavior in the context of the Internet
    刘慧灵
    2022 (5):  553-557.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.05.014
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    通过构建有调节的中介模型,以消费者行为为落脚点,探究互联网背景下日化品牌跨界营销战略在消费者层面的影响。研究发现:日化品牌跨界营销战略通过引发消费者关注而引导消费者的购买行为,消费者关注呈部分中介效应;互联网背景下,消费者个人特征对日化品牌跨界营销战略的后果存在显著调节效应,消费者年龄越大,跨界营销战略对消费者购买行为的影响越小;消费者受教育水平越高,则跨界营销战略对消费者购买行为的影响越大。

    With the advent of the Internet era, the profound changes in the consumer environment, trends and circumstances characterized by the rise in disposable income of our residents for a short period of time trigger the upgrading of consumption. Residents can't live without daily chemical products, but the development of daily chemical brands in the Internet era is not as satisfactory. By constructing a moderated intermediary model and taking consumer behavior as the landing point, this paper explored the impact of cross-border marketing strategies of daily chemical brands at the consumer level in the context of the Internet. This paper shows the conclusion that the cross-border marketing strategy of daily chemical brands leads consumers' purchasing behavior by triggering consumers' attention, and the consumers' attention is partially mediated. In the Internet context, there is a significant moderating effect of the consumers' personal characteristics on the consequences of cross-border marketing strategy of daily chemical brands. The older the consumers are, the smaller the influence of cross-border marketing strategy is on consumers' purchasing behavior. The higher the consumers' education level is, the greater the influence of cross-border marketing strategy is on consumers' purchasing behavior.

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    专论与综述
    驱油用纳米材料研究进展
    Research progress of nanomaterials for oil displacement
    吴国鹏,张福玲
    2022 (5):  558-565.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.05.015
    摘要 ( 905 )   HTML ( 26 )   PDF(1082KB) ( 533 )  

    由于纳米材料尺寸小、比表面积大,表面原子活性高且数量占比大,通过表面改性可在同一纳米材料上集成多种驱油功能,纳米驱油技术被认为是未来最具潜力的提高采收率技术之一。简要介绍了驱油纳米材料的性能特点,综述了零维、一维和二维纳米材料在油田驱油剂方面的研究与应用进展,讨论了纳米材料在提高采收率应用面临的四方面挑战,即纳米材料驱油理论有待突破、纳米材料制造成本高、油藏条件下纳米材料的分散稳定性以及纳米材料与采出液分离及循环利用。综合油田开发需求与纳米技术发展现状,提出未来油田纳米驱油技术“复合功能”与“智能化”的发展方向。“复合功能”是指通过化学改性在纳米材料上集成剥离原油、捕集、聚并油滴等多种功能;“智能化”是指借鉴超分子化学手段,设计合成在油/水界面处堆积密度可调的柔性纳米材料,赋予其在储层中“智能”调剖功能,达到扩大波及体积的目的。

    Due to the small size and the large specific surface area of nanomaterials and the high atomic activity and high number ratio of the surface atoms thereof, various oil displacement functions can be integrated on the same nanomaterial through surface modification. Therefore, the nanomaterial oil-displacement technology is considered as one of the most potential EOR technologies in the future. The properties of nanomaterials for oil displacement are briefly introduced, and the research and application progress of zero-dimensional, one-dimensional and two-dimensional nanomaterials as oil displacement agents in oil fields are reviewed. Nano-silica modified by surfactants or polyacrylamide can reduce the interfacial tension between oil and water, change the wettability of rock, expand the sweep volume, and have other functions, showing good oil displacement effect. Owing to its stable property and economic and environmental protection advantages, silica is considered as the most promising zero-dimensional material for oil displacement. Metal oxide nanoparticles such as Al2O3, TiO2 and ZrO2, carbon nanoparticles and carbon quantum dots also have good oil displacement performance. One-dimensional carbon nanotubes can promote the migration and dispersion of surfactant molecules to the oil-water interface and improve the injection efficiency of oil displacement agents. Graphene-based nanofluids can significantly improve oil recovery by changing rock wettability and separation pressure, reducing interfacial tension, reducing oil viscosity, and controlling flow rate. Four challenges facing the application of nanomaterials in EOR are discussed, namely, the theory of nanomaterial flooding that needs to be broken through, the high manufacturing cost of nanomaterials, the dispersion stability of nanomaterials under reservoir conditions, and the separation and recycling of nanomaterials from produced fluids. Based on the demand of oilfield development and the current situation of nanotechnology development, the development direction of “composite function” and “intelligence” of the nanomaterial oil-displacement technology in oilfield in the future is proposed. “Composite function” refers to the integration of various functions on nanomaterials through chemical modification, such as stripping crude oil, trapping and merging oil droplets. “Intelligent” refers to the design and synthesis of flexible nanomaterials with adjustable bulk density at the oil-water interface by supramolecular chemical means, giving them the “intelligent” profile control function in the reservoir to achieve the purpose of expanding the sweep volume.

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    色彩审美规律在化妆品包装视觉表现中的应用分析
    Analysis on the application of color aesthetic law in cosmetic packaging vision
    文静子
    2022 (5):  566-571.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.05.016
    摘要 ( 266 )   HTML ( 23 )   PDF(1111KB) ( 314 )  

    为了提升化妆品包装的视觉效果,激发消费者购买欲望,分析了色彩审美规律在化妆品包装视觉表现中的应用,以提高品牌吸引力。化妆品包装色彩的运用可美化产品、增加产品的辨识度、辅助消费者做出购买决策,在市场调研中影响消费者对化妆品包装色彩喜好的主要原因为年龄、性别以及地域3个方面,结合调研结果与现有化妆品包装,分析受各原因影响的消费者心理特点与需求,利用所分析结果,通过打动人心的配色、经典单一形象的塑造、另类色彩以及功能性实现化妆品包装视觉,为消费者提供视觉新鲜感并吸引消费者眼球,提升品牌形象和市场认知度,推动消费者产生购买欲望,体现品牌市场竞争力。

    Most of the cosmetic products in our country imitate foreign brands in packaging and image, so it is difficult to create personalized image. More and more enterprises have realized that besides the quality and price of cosmetics, the design of color emotion has become an indispensable factor in the cosmetics market. Good color emotion can better expand the cosmetics market and bring more users. In order to enhance the visual effect of cosmetic packaging, and stimulate consumer's consumption desire, this paper analyzed the application of color aesthetic law in cosmetic packaging visual performance. In the first chapter, we studied the color aesthetic law and its importance in the visual performance of cosmetic packaging. The main factors influencing the consumers' preference for the color of cosmetic packaging are age, gender and region. Based on the research results and the existing cosmetic packaging, the psychological characteristics and demands of consumers affected by various factors are analyzed. The function of color rules in the visual performance of cosmetic packaging is analyzed. The application of cosmetic packaging color can beautify products, increase product identification and assist consumers to make purchase decisions. Based on the analysis results, the color design scheme of cosmetic packaging visual performance is studied. Through touching color matching, shaping a single classic image molding, alternative colors and functionality, it can achieve cosmetic packaging vision, provide consumers with visual freshness and attract consumers' attention. Color in modern cosmetic packaging design can not only transfer information, decorate and beautify the role, but also be more accurate in the process of conveying information. It can be the smallest cost or low cost to obtain the highest added value. Grasping the psychological characteristics of the consumer groups, and giving consumers the feeling of direct management from the perspective of color, make consumers have more loyalty to the cosmetics brand. It can enhance the brand image and market awareness, promote consumers' consumption desire, and reflect the brand market competitiveness.

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    分析与检测
    超声辅助-固相萃取-GC-MS法测定儿童化妆品中TBP,TCEP,TCPP和TDCPP
    Determination of TBP, TCEP, TCPP and TDCPP in children's cosmetics by ultrasound-assisted solid phase extraction-GC-MS
    徐春丽,贾振福,邱会东,刘恩余,黄瑶瑶,苏小东
    2022 (5):  572-576.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.05.017
    摘要 ( 229 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF(1167KB) ( 349 )  

    基于超声辅助溶剂萃取技术结合气相色谱-质谱联用建立了儿童化妆品中TBP,TCEP,TCPP和TDCPP 4种有机磷酸酯阻燃剂(Organophosphate Flame Retardants, OPFRs)的测定方法。优化了萃取剂种类、超声时间、溶剂用量、洗脱剂种类、洗脱剂用量、固相萃取柱类型、色谱条件等条件。结果表明,在优化条件下TCPP与TBP的质量浓度在0.002~20 mg/L、TDCPP与TCEP质量浓度在0.004~30 mg/L范围内,分别与其对应的峰面积成良好的线性关系,相关系数R2>0.998。利用该方法测定了国产和进口儿童化妆品中4种有机磷酸酯的含量,不含阻燃剂的空白基质中4种OPFRs在3个不同添加水平(500,2 500和5 000 ng/g)的加标回收率在101.7%~119.0%之间,相对标准偏差在2.5%~8.4%之间。该方法操作简单、灵敏度高、准确度好,可用于儿童化妆品中4种有机磷酸酯阻燃剂的同时测定。

    An effective method for the determination of tributyl phosphate (tbp), tris (2-chloroethyl) phosphate (tcep), tris (1-chloro-2-propyl) phosphate (tcpp) and tris (2, 3-dichloropropyl) phosphate (tdcpp) in children's cosmetics was established based on ultrasonic assisted solvent extraction followed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. The conditions of extractant solvent, ultrasonic time, eluent type, eluent dosage, solid phase extraction column and chromatographic conditions were optimized. The optimal conditions were as follows: extraction solvent: acetonitrile; purification column: Florisil; extraction time: 20 min; eluent: acetonitrile. The results show that under the optimized conditions, the mass concentrations of TCPP and TBP are in the range of 0.002-20 mg/L and the mass concentrations of TDCPP and TCEP are in the range of 0.004-30 mg/L, which have a good linear relationship with their corresponding peak areas, and the correlation coefficient R2 is greater than 0.998. The contents of four organic phosphates in domestic and imported children's cosmetics are determined by this method. The recoveries of four organic phosphate flame retardants in blank matrix at three different addition levels (500, 2 500 and 5 000 ng/g) are varied from 101.7% to 119.0% with the relative standard deviations of 2.5%-8.4%. The method is simple, sensitive and accurate, and can be used for the simultaneous determination of four organic phosphate flame retardants in children's cosmetics.

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