王浆酸及其护肤功效的研究进展

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.02.013

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

王浆酸简称10-HDA（10-Hydroxy-2-Decenoic acid，10-HDA），是蜂王浆中的一种不饱和脂肪酸。在自然界，目前只存在于蜂王浆中，且难以分离获取，生物合成法将有望解决王浆酸原料获取困难、价格昂贵的现状。王浆酸具有很强的生物活性，在抑菌、抗炎、抗癌、抗氧化等功效，在食品、医药、保健品、化妆品方面有广泛的应用前景。目前随着时代的发展与市场的变化，化妆品原料的不断研发将会是提升化妆品品质的关键。文章综述了王浆酸在抗衰、抗炎、美白、抗氧化、抑菌方面的功效，以期为王浆酸在护肤品中的应用提供理论依据，为化妆品公司在开发新型、高效、多种用途的护肤原料上提供新的选择。

关键词: 王浆酸, 10-HDA, 护肤品, 生物活性, 应用研究

Abstract:

Royal jelly acid （10-hydroxy-2-decenoic acid, 10-HDA） is a kind of trans-unsaturated fatty acid exclusively found in royal jelly. It is difficult to be separated because of its low content in royal jelly. At present, there are three main ways to prepare royal jelly acid, including physical extraction, chemical synthesis and biosynthesis, among which biosynthesis is hopeful to solve its expensive situation. With the in-depth study of royal jelly acid, it has been found that royal jelly acid has strong robust health and medical benefits. These beneficial effects include antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, antitumor, antioxidant and other effects, and has a wide application prospect in food, medicine, health products and cosmetics. Now, with the development and the changes of the market, cosmetic materials have ushered in new changes, and the cosmetic market needs new high-quality materials. This paper summarizes the effects of royal jelly acid in anti-aging, anti-inflammation, whitening, anti-oxidation and antimicrobial, in order to provide theoretical basis for the application of royal jelly acid in skin care products and provide new choices in cosmetic raw materials.

Key words: royal jelly acid, 10-HDA, skin care products, biological activity, application study

中图分类号:

TQ658

杲款款, 杨素珍, 韩婷婷, 李燕, 袁春颖, 毛欣宇. 王浆酸及其护肤功效的研究进展[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2024, 54(2): 209-215.

Kuankuan Gao, Suzhen Yang, Tingting Han, Yan Li, Chunying Yuan, Xinyu Mao. Research progress of royal jelly acid and its skin care efficacy[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(2): 209-215.

图/表 3

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提取方法	合成方法	优缺点
物理提取法	变质的蜂王浆中提取：乙醚萃取法；	操作过程简单，设备要求简单，投资少，但变质废弃的蜂王浆数量少，不适宜于大规模生产，需用到大量有机溶剂，成本较高
物理提取法	废弃的蜂王浆残渣：乙醇、乙醚萃取法	操作过程简单，设备要求简单，投资少，但变质废弃的蜂王浆数量少，不适宜于大规模生产，需用到大量有机溶剂，成本较高
化学合成法	α-烯与四氯化碳加成、水解法；	缩合法收率高，形成的双键几乎为全反式，但大部分化学合成法反应条件苛刻，除缩合法外收率较低，形成的双键为顺反混合物，难以提取
	羧酸α-脱卤法；
	Knoevenagel缩合法；
	蓖麻油法
生物合成法	以癸酸为底物两步法合成；	相比大多数重污染的化学合成方法，生物合成法对环境更加友好，清洁、高效、低成本，但目前技术缺乏成熟度
生物合成法	毕赤酵母中生物合成	相比大多数重污染的化学合成方法，生物合成法对环境更加友好，清洁、高效、低成本，但目前技术缺乏成熟度