红景天提取物的护肤功效及安全性评价研究

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.009

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

研究红景天提取物的护肤功效及安全性。通过DPPH自由基清除实验验证红景天提取物的抗氧化作用。结果表明，在一定浓度范围内，红景天提取物可有效消除DPPH自由基和活性氧，对氧化损伤的细胞发挥保护作用，具有一定的抗氧化作用；通过弹性蛋白酶抑制率验证红景天提取物维持皮肤弹性的作用，红景天提取物可有效抑制弹性蛋白酶活性；通过酪氨酸酶活性抑制率和小鼠黑色素瘤细胞黑色素消除率验证红景天提取物对黑色素生成的抑制作用，红景天提取物可显著抑制酪氨酸酶活性、延缓黑色素生成，存在潜在的美白功效；通过人体皮肤重复性开放型涂抹试验验证红景天提取安全性，结果表明48 h后无受试者出现皮肤不良反应，证明在一定浓度范围内，红景天提取物对人体皮肤无刺激性。

关键词: 红景天, 护肤, 抗氧化, 安全性

Abstract:

This paper aimed to study the skincare efficacy and safety of Rhodiola rosea extract. The antioxidant effect of Rhodiola rosea extract was verified through DPPH free radical scavenging experiment. The results show that within a certain concentration range, Rhodiola rosea extract can effectively eliminate DPPH free radicals and reactive oxygen species, which plays a protective role on the cells damaged by oxidation, and has a certain antioxidant effect. The effect of Rhodiola rosea extract on maintaining skin elasticity was verified through the inhibition rate of elastase, and Rhodiola rosea extract can effectively inhibit elastase activity. The inhibitory effect of Rhodiola rosea extract on melanogenesis was verified through the inhibition rate of tyrosinase activity and the elimination rate of melanin in mouse melanoma cells. Rhodiola rosea extract can significantly inhibit tyrosinase activity, delay melanogenesis, and has potential whitening effects. The safety of Rhodiola rosea extract was verified through a repeated open application test on human skin. The results show that no adverse skin reactions occurred after 48 hours, indicating that within a certain concentration range, Rhodiola rosea extract has no irritating effect on human skin.

Key words: Rhodiola rosea, skin care, antioxidant, safety

中图分类号:

TQ658

周妍, 韩蕊娜. 红景天提取物的护肤功效及安全性评价研究[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2023, 53(10): 1180-1185.

Zhou Yan, Han Ruina. Study on the skincare efficacy and safety evaluation of Rhodiola rosea extract[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2023, 53(10): 1180-1185.

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参考文献 10

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反应程度	评分等级	皮肤反应临床表现
-	0	阴性反应
±	1	微弱红斑、皮肤干燥、皱褶
+	2	红斑、水肿、丘疹、风团、脱屑、裂隙
++	3	明显红斑、水肿、水疱
+++	4	重度红斑、水肿、大疱、糜烂、色素沉着或色素减退、痤疮样改变

样品名称	评分等级	反应人数/例
样品名称	评分等级	30 min后	24 h后	48 h后
红景天提取物	0	28	29	30
	1	1	—	—
	2	1	1	—
	3	—	—	—
	4	—	—	—

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