头发与头皮护理的科学基础（Ⅰ）——水分对头发性能的影响以及头发保湿锁水功效的研究

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.01.002

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

水分是头发的一个重要组成部分，水分子通过与角蛋白的作用以不同的赋存状态存在于头发内部。水分含量的多少及其存在形式会直接影响头发某些性能，而头发的损伤也会反过来影响头发内部水分。通过对头发水分含量、存在状态等方面的探究可以反映头发的健康/损伤状态。本文介绍了头发内部水分含量及赋存状态的表征方法，阐述了头发吸水/失水曲线的含义，分析了头发水分含量及流失速率与头发性质的关系并列举分析了市面上几种头发保湿剂及其保湿原理，以期对护发产品中保湿成分的开发和应用提供借鉴。

关键词: 头发, 含水量, 吸附脱附, 力学性能, 保湿

Abstract:

Moisture is important for hair. Water molecules exist in the hair in different states through the interactions with keratin. The water content and its existing form will directly affect some properties of hair, and the damage of the hair will also affect the internal moisture of the hair. The health/damage status of the hair can be reflected by exploring the moisture content of hair and the existing status. Herein, the characterization methods of hair internal moisture content and storage state were reviewed. The meaning of hair water absorption/loss curve was elucidated. The relationships between hair moisture content and loss rate and hair properties were analyzed. Several kinds of hair moisturizers and their moisturizing mechanisms were introduced. This review may provide basis for the development and application of moisturizing ingredients in hair care products.

Key words: hair, moisture content, adsorption and desorption, mechanical properties, moisturizing

中图分类号:

TQ658

吴雨闻, 马铃, 陈殿松, 常宽, 王靖. 头发与头皮护理的科学基础（Ⅰ）——水分对头发性能的影响以及头发保湿锁水功效的研究[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2023, 53(1): 8-15.

Wu Yuwen, Ma Ling, Chen Timson, Chang Kuan, Wang Jing. Scientific foundations of hair and scalp care （I） Effects of moisture on the properties of hair and the study on moisturizing efficacy[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2023, 53(1): 8-15.

图/表 9

图 1

图 2

图 3

图 4

图 5

图 6

图 7

图 8

图 9

参考文献 35

[1]	Martin K. Infrared and Raman studies of skin and hair: A review of cosmetic spectroscopy[M]. The Internet Journal of Vibrational Spectroscopy, Perkin-Elmer, 1999, 3 (2).
[2]	Barba C, Méndez S, Martí M, et al. Water content of hair and nails[J]. Thermochimica Acta, 2009, 494 (1-2) : 136-140. doi: 10.1016/j.tca.2009.05.005
[3]	Gao T. Evaluation of hair humidity resistance/moisturization from hair elasticity[J]. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2007, 58 (4) : 393-404. pmid: 17728940
[4]	Ishihara A, Tsukamoto Y, Inoue H, et al. Analysis of water distribution in delipidated human hair by small‐angle neutron scattering (SANS)[J]. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2021, 43 (6) : 653-661. doi: 10.1111/ics.12741 pmid: 34665889
[5]	Lima C R R C, Machado L D B, Velasco M V R, et al. DSC measurements applied to hair studies[J]. Journal of Thermal Analysis and Calorimetry, 2018, 132 (3) : 1429-1437. doi: 10.1007/s10973-018-7095-0
[6]	Milczarek P, Zielinski M, Garcia M L. The mechanism and stability of thermal transitions in hair keratin[J]. Colloid and Polymer Science, 1992, 270 (11) : 1106-1115. doi: 10.1007/BF00652875
[7]	Mendes T R O, Placeski A D. Evaluation of hair fiber hydration by differential scanning calorimetry, gas chromatography, and sensory analysis[J]. J. Cosmet. Sci., 2003, 54: 527-535. pmid: 14730369
[8]	Barba C, Martí M, Roddick-Lanzilotta A, et al. Effect of wool keratin proteins and peptides on hair water sorption kinetics[J]. Journal of Thermal Analysis and Calorimetry, 2010, 102 (1) : 43-48. doi: 10.1007/s10973-010-0691-2
[9]	Barba C, Martí M, Manich A M, et al. Water absorption/desorption of human hair and nails[J]. Thermochimica Acta, 2010, 503: 33-39.
[10]	Wortmann F J, Springob C, Sendelbach G. Investigations of cosmetically treated human hair by differential scanning calorimetry in water[J]. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2002, 53 (4) : 219-228. pmid: 12219248
[11]	Barba C, Martí M, Carilla J, et al. Moisture sorption/desorption of protein fibres[J]. Thermochimica Acta, 2013, 552: 70-76. doi: 10.1016/j.tca.2012.11.001
[12]	Jones L N. Hair structure anatomy and comparative anatomy[J]. Clinics in Dermatology, 2001, 19 (2) : 95-103. doi: 10.1016/S0738-081X(00)00120-6
[13]	Bradbury J H. The structure and chemistry of keratin fibers[J]. Advances in Protein Chemistry, 1973, 27: 111-211. pmid: 4129702
[14]	Xiao P, Bontozoglou C, Ciortea L I, et al. Hair water content and water holding capacity measurements[C]// 7th International Bi-Annual Conference on Applied Hair Science, 2016.
[15]	Drozdenko R, Weinstein C, Weinstein S. Application of electrical hygrometric measures to the evaluation of hair moisturizing products[J]. Journal-Society of Cosmetic Chemists, 1992, 43: 179.
[16]	Breakspear S, Noecker B, Popescu C. Relevance and evaluation of hydrogen and disulfide bond contribution to the mechanics of hard alpha-keratin fibres[J]. The Journal of Physical Chemistry B, 2019, 123 (21) : 4505-4511. doi: 10.1021/acs.jpcb.9b01690
[17]	Tiampasook P, Chaiyasut C, Sundaram S B, et al. Effect of Phyllanthus emblica Linn. on tensile strength of virgin and bleached hairs[J]. Applied Sciences, 2020, 10 (18) : 6305. doi: 10.3390/app10186305
[18]	Jelen K, Skřontová M, Šimkova L, et al. Changes in the mechanical parameters of hair in a group of women in reproductive age[J]. Neuroendocrinology Letters, 2014, 35 (6) : 481-489. pmid: 25433839
[19]	Benzarti M, Pailler-Mattei C, Jamart J, et al. The effect of hydration on the mechanical behaviour of hair[J]. Experimental Mechanics, 2014, 54 (8) : 1411-1419. doi: 10.1007/s11340-014-9904-0
[20]	Luqman M W, Ali R, Khan Z, et al. Effect of topical application of hard water in weakening of hair in men[J]. J. Pak. Med. Assoc., 2016, 66: 1132-1136.
[21]	Egawa M, Hagihara M, Yanai M. Near‐infrared imaging of water in human hair[J]. Skin Research and Technology, 2013, 19 (1) : 35-41. doi: 10.1111/j.1600-0846.2012.00651.x
[22]	Cao J, Leroy F. Depression of the melting temperature by moisture for alpha-form crystallites in human hair keratin[J]. Biopolymers, 2010, 77 (1) : 38-43. doi: 10.1002/bip.20186
[23]	Sinclair, Rodney D. Healthy hair: what is it?[J]. Journal of Investigative Dermatology Symposium Proceedings, 2008, 12 (2) : 2-5. doi: 10.1038/sj.jidsymp.5650046
[24]	Marsh J, Gray J, Tosti A. Root-to-Tip hair health[M]. Healthy Hair. Springer, Cham, 2015: 29-44.
[25]	Gao T. Evaluation of hair humidity resistance/moisturization from hair elasticity[J]. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2007, 58 (4) : 393-404. pmid: 17728940
[26]	Yuen C, Kan C W, Chow Y L. Effect of sun protection agent on preventing hair colour fading and hair damage[J]. Fibers & Polymers, 2010, 11: 316-320.
[27]	Barba C, Scott S, Kelly R, et al. New anionic surface-active agent derived from wool proteins for hair treatment[J]. Journal of Applied Polymer Science, 2010, 115 (3) : 1461-1467. doi: 10.1002/app.31065
[28]	Benaiges A, E Fernández, B Martínez-Teipel, et al. Hair efficacy of botanical extracts[J]. Journal of Applied Polymer Science, 2013, 5 (4) : 861-868.
[29]	Azizova M, Archibald E A, Tasker R, et al. Henkel IP and Holding GmbH. Hair treatment composition with naturally-derived peptide identical to human hair: US9505820B2[P]. 2008.
[30]	Tinoco A, Martins M, Cavaco-Paulo A, et al. Biotechnology of functional proteins and peptides for hair cosmetic formulations[J]. Trends in Biotechnology 2021, 16 (10) : 1-15.
[31]	Zur Wiesche E S, Körner A, Schäfer K, et al. Prevention of hair surface aging[J]. Journal of Cosmetic Science: The Official Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, 2011, 62 (2) : 237-249.
[32]	Qu W, Guo X, Xu G, et al. Improving the mechanical properties of damaged hair using low-molecular weight hyaluronate[J]. Molecules, 2022, 27 (22) : 7701. doi: 10.3390/molecules27227701
[33]	Mysore V, Arghya A. Hair oils: Indigenous knowledge revisited[J]. International Journal of Trichology, 2022, 14 (3) : 84. doi: 10.4103/ijt.ijt_189_20
[34]	Yang Mingqiang, Ren Juan. Application of betaine in personal care products[J]. Favor Fragrance Cosmetics, 2008 (4) : 45-48.
[35]	McMichael A J. Ethnic hair update: past and present[J]. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 2003, 48 (6) : 127-133.