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日用化学工业(中英文) ›› 2026, Vol. 56 ›› Issue (7): 925-934.doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2026.07.011

• 开发与应用 • 上一篇    下一篇

氨基酸表面活性剂在沐浴油体系中的创新应用

黄余年,文琪,喻冰清,秦尧,张廷志,钱景茹*()   

  1. 水羊化妆品制造有限公司 创新研发中心湖南 长沙 410000
  • 收稿日期:2026-01-27 修回日期:2026-06-18 出版日期:2026-07-22 发布日期:2026-08-06

Innovative application of amino acid surfactants in bath oil systems

Yunian Huang,Qi Wen,Bingqing Yu,Yao Qin,Tingzhi Zhang,Jingru Qian*()   

  1. Innovation R&D Center, S'Young Group Cosmetics Manufacturing Co. Ltd., Changsha, Hunan 410000, China
  • Received:2026-01-27 Revised:2026-06-18 Online:2026-07-22 Published:2026-08-06
  • Contact: *E-mail: molan@syounggroup.com.

摘要:

氨基酸表面活性剂(AAS)凭借低刺激性、优良起泡性的优势备受关注,但该类表面活性剂在油剂体系中溶解性较差,难以在沐浴油中大量应用,故当前沐浴油体系仍以传统硫酸盐类表面活性剂为主。基于此,本文以辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯(GTCC)为油相,月桂醇聚醚-4(LE-4)为乳化剂,系统筛选了10种AAS,并结合透明度测试与拟三元相图法,最终确定月桂酰基甲基氨基丙酸钠(SLMA)与该体系适配性最优,不仅透明液态相区范围广且配方适用性强,为后续配方优化奠定基础。为进一步提升产品综合性能,通过泡沫性能与蛋白损伤实验,优化得到GTCC、LE-4、SLMA最佳质量比为4∶3∶3。该配比下产品泡沫体积达127.3 mL、半衰期677.5 s,蛋白损伤量仅0.729 1 g/L,兼具优异起泡性与温和性,并在分子层面得到验证。对比传统硫酸盐体系,该SLMA体系在泡沫性能、温和性、保湿性等方面均表现更优,且清洁能力与硫酸盐体系相当,消费者测试有明显感知。此外,该体系经离心和多温储存稳定性测试均表现出良好稳定性;人体皮肤斑贴试验证实其无皮肤刺激性,安全性良好。本研究首次创新性地将AAS应用在透明油剂体系中,为高端沐浴油的开发提供了新的思路,具有良好的产业化前景。

关键词: 氨基酸表面活性剂, 油剂体系, 沐浴油, 泡沫性能, 温和性

Abstract:

Amino acid surfactants(AAS)have attracted considerable attention due to their low irritation and excellent foaming properties. However, the poor solubility of AAS in oily systems limits their extensive application in bath oils, so currently conventional sulfate-based surfactants remain dominant in bath oil formulations. In this work, caprylic/capric triglyceride(GTCC)was used as the oil phase and laureth-4(LE-4)was used as the emulsifier. Ten AAS were selected as candidates of the key component in bath oil, which were then screened by transparency test combined with pseudo-ternary phase diagram. It was confirmed that sodium lauroyl methylaminopropionate(SLMA)exhibited the best compatibility with the system, featuring a broad region of transparent liquid in the phase diagram and good formulation applicability. Thus it provided a basis for subsequent formulation optimization. The mass ratio of GTCC∶LE-4∶SLMA was optimized to further improve the overall performance of the bath oil, which was determined to be 4∶3∶3 according to the foaming performance test and protein damage assay. At this ratio, the product achieved the foam volume of 127.3 mL, foam half-life of 677.5 s, and protein damage value as low as 0.729 1 g/L, indicative of excellent foaming performance and mildness. Compared with the traditional sulfate system, the SLMA-based system showed better performance in foaming, mildness, and moisturization while maintaining comparable cleansing ability. These advantages could be clearly perceived in consumer testing. In addition, the system exhibited excellent stability in centrifugation and multi-temperature storage tests. Human skin patch test confirmed no skin irritation, indicative of good safety. This work innovatively applied AAS to transparent oily systems for the first time, which provided a new strategy for the development of high-end bath oils with promising industrialization prospects.

Key words: amino acid surfactant, oil system, bath oil, foaming performance, mildness

中图分类号: 

  • TQ423