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日用化学工业(中英文) ›› 2025, Vol. 55 ›› Issue (9): 1153-1162.doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.09.009

• 开发与应用 • 上一篇    下一篇

海藻糖脂在清洁体系中的泡沫和温和性研究

陈梅1,*(),吴瑶瑶1,夏丹丹1,常晓维1,苏桂珍2,柳晨2   

  1. 1.珀莱雅化妆品股份有限公司,上海 200000
    2.南京华狮新材料有限公司,江苏 南京 210009
  • 收稿日期:2024-11-11 修回日期:2025-08-15 出版日期:2025-09-22 发布日期:2025-10-11

Foam and mildness study of trehalolipid surfactant in rinse off formulations

Mei Chen1,*(),Yaoyao Wu1,Dandan Xia1,Xiaowei Chang1,Guizhen Su2,Chen Liu2   

  1. 1. Proya Cosmetic Co. Ltd., Shanghai 200000, China
    2. Sino Lion USA, Nanjing, Jiangsu 210009, China
  • Received:2024-11-11 Revised:2025-08-15 Online:2025-09-22 Published:2025-10-11
  • Contact: *E-mail: mchen2014@126.com.

摘要:

本研究旨在评估海藻糖脂在清洁产品中的泡沫性能与温和性,并与传统的非离子表面活性剂烷基糖苷(APG)进行对比。通过对比单一表面活性剂和表面活性剂组合的不同体系,结果表明,海藻糖脂在降低表面张力、提高泡沫性能和改善温和性方面具有明显优势。特别是在表面活性剂组合物中加入海藻糖脂后,不仅表面张力得到有效降低,泡沫性能和皮肤温和性均有显著提升。此外,海藻糖脂相比APG展现了更好的皮肤温和性和较低的细胞毒性。结合体外和人体试验数据,本研究进一步验证了海藻糖脂在清洁产品中的应用潜力,证明其作为替代传统表面活性剂的可行性,尤其在提高产品温和性的同时保证了泡沫性能。

关键词: 海藻糖脂, 泡沫, 温和性, 温和性比色指数, zeta电位, 人体斑贴试验

Abstract:

The paper investigates the foaming and mildness properties of trehalolipids surfactant in rinse-off formulations, comparing it with the traditional nonionic surfactant alkyl-polyglycolide (APG). Both single surfactant and their surfactant complexes are evaluated. And the results show that trehalolipids have significant advantages in reducing surface tension, improving foam performance, and enhancing mildness. For mildness evaluation, multiple methods are employed in the study, including in vitro cell toxicity, inflammatory markers, colorimetric index of mildness CIM, and in vivo method of human skin patch test. The results show that the addition of trehalolipids increases IC50 and reduces the release of inflammatory markers of the binary surfactant system. However, the incorporation of trehalolipids has some negative effects on the skin’s lipid barrier function. Skin patch test results indicate that the addition of trehalolipids improves the mildness of surfactant system, particularly in sulfate-free system. Overall, trehalolipids, as nonionic surfactants, presents great potential to replace traditional surfactants in rinse off formulations with enhanced mildness and foam performance.

Key words: trehalolipids, foam, mildness, colorimetric index of mildness CIM, zeta potential, skin patch test

中图分类号: 

  • TQ423