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日用化学工业 ›› 2022, Vol. 52 ›› Issue (8): 833-836.doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.08.006

• 开发与应用 • 上一篇    下一篇

广藿香叶提取物的皮肤舒缓和修护功效研究

赵云珊,江月明,鲁文嘉,贾明明,瞿欣*()   

  1. 亚什兰(中国)投资有限公司 上海创新研发中心,上海 200233
  • 收稿日期:2021-10-14 修回日期:2022-07-27 出版日期:2022-08-22 发布日期:2022-08-24
  • 通讯作者: 瞿欣

Study on the skin soothing and skin repair effects of Pogostemon cablin leaf extract

Zhao Yunshan,Jiang Yueming,Lu Wenjia,Jia Mingming,Qu Xin*()   

  1. Shanghai Innovation Technical Center, Ashland Specialty Ingredients, Shanghai 200233, China
  • Received:2021-10-14 Revised:2022-07-27 Online:2022-08-22 Published:2022-08-24
  • Contact: Xin Qu

摘要:

研究设计了3组基于不同皮肤刺激模型的人体测试,分别通过胶带剥脱法建立皮肤屏障物理性损伤模型,苯氧乙醇或辣椒素化学刺激原建立皮肤刺激模型,并结合主观自觉症状评分、客观非创仪器检测皮肤的生理学参数和光谱成像血流分析仪,系统性地研究了广藿香叶提取物对敏感性皮肤人群的临床皮肤舒缓和修护功效。结果表明,面膜中添加1%广藿香叶提取物可显著减轻苯氧乙醇引起的皮肤灼烧感和刺痛感(p<0.05)。使用含1%广藿香叶提取物乳霜30 min、1 h和2 h后,受损皮肤的经表皮失水率(TEWL)均显著减少(p<0.05),表明受损皮肤修复加速。通过TiVi 700图像可视化地比较和展示了1%广藿香叶提取物减轻皮肤红斑的效果。

关键词: 广藿香叶提取物, 敏感性皮肤, 皮肤屏障, 胶带剥脱, 皮肤刺激

Abstract:

The occurrence of sensitive skin has close relationship with the overactivity of transient receptor potential vanilloid type 1 (TRPV1) and impaired skin barrier function. This study aims to establish a damaged skin barrier model and irritation model using physical and chemical irritants and to evaluate the skin soothing and repair effect of Pogostemon cablin leaf extract, so as to explore timely measures to alleviate the sensitive skin problem. The clinical skin soothing and skin repairing effects of Pogostemon cablin leaf extract on sensitive skin have been systematically studied, using tape-tripping as physical skin damage model, and chemical probe, phenoxyethanol or capsaicin, as skin irritation model, combined with subjective self-assessment, objective non-invasive skin physiological measurements and image acquisition with Tissue Viability Imager. The results demonstrate that the addition of 1% Pogostemon cablin leaf extract in a mask can significantly reduce the burning and stinging sensation of the skin induced by phenoxyethanol (p<0.05). After using a cream containing 1% Pogostemon cablin leaf extract for 30 minutes, 1 hour and 2 hours, the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) of the damaged skin is significantly reduced (p<0.05), indicating that the skin repair is accelerated. The images acquired by TiVi 700 are visually compared and demonstrate the effect of 1% Pogostemon cablin leaf extract on reducing skin erythema.

Key words: Pogostemon cablin leaf extract, sensitive skin, skin barrier, tape-stripping, skin irritation

中图分类号: 

  • TQ658