椰油酰水解燕麦蛋白钾对氨基酸洁面膏的性能影响

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.007

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

在一定的pH范围内，研究了4种温和表面活性剂对以椰油酰甘氨酸钠为主要表面活性剂制备的结晶型氨基酸洁面膏的结膏温度、高温稳定性、外观状态、泡沫性能及刺激性能的影响。通过对比实验，结果显示椰油酰水解燕麦蛋白钾对洁面膏的结膏温度和高温稳定性有明显的改善作用。通过罗氏泡沫仪测试泡沫量，结果显示椰油酰水解燕麦蛋白钾能增加洁面膏泡沫量和提升泡沫稳定性。通过偏光显微镜观察洁面膏料体外观，结果显示椰油酰水解燕麦蛋白钾有助于洁面膏形成更均一细腻的晶体。通过玉米醇溶蛋白试验法（zein test）测试洁面膏刺激性，结果显示椰油酰水解燕麦蛋白钾对洁面膏体系的刺激性有显著降低作用，使洁面膏更加温和。上述实验证明椰油酰水解燕麦蛋白钾对以椰油酰甘氨酸钠为主要表面活性剂的结晶型氨基酸洁面膏性能有一定的改善作用。

关键词: 椰油酰水解燕麦蛋白钾, 椰油酰甘氨酸钠, 氨基酸洁面膏, 结膏温度, 稳定性, 泡沫性能, 刺激性能

Abstract:

Sodium cocoyl glycinate is a common amino acid surfactant with reasonable price. It is highly biodegradable, resistant to hard water, and has excellent foaming ability, which has been widely used in personal care amino acid cleansers. However, the amino acid cleansing cream prepared by using a surfactant alone （i.e., sodium cocoyl glycinate）, has poor foaming performance and stability, so it is necessary to obtain amino acid cleansers with excellent foam performance, bright appearance and good stability by compounding other surfactants. Within a certain pH range, the effects of four mild surfactants on the crystalline amino acid facial cleanser prepared with sodium cocoyl glycinate as the main surfactant were studied. The crystallizing temperature, high-temperature stability, appearance, foaming performance and irritation were measured. Through comparative experiments, the results show that potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein can significantly improve the crystallizing temperature and high-temperature stability of the cleansing cream. The foam volume was tested by the Ross-Miles foam analyzer, and the results show that potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein can increase the foam volume of the cleansing cream and improve the foam stability. The results of the appearance of the cleansing cream as observed by a polarizing microscope show that, potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein has benefit in forming more uniform and fine crystals. The irritation of the cleansing cream was tested by zein test, and the results show that potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein can significantly reduce the irritation of the cleansing cream system, making the cleansing cream milder. In conclusion, potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein can improve the performance of crystalline amino acid cleansing cream with sodium cocoyl glycinate as the main surfactant. This work may contribute in developing stable amino acid cleansing cream for the personal care industry.

Key words: potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein, sodium cocoyl glycinate, amino acid cleanser, crystallizing temperature, stability, foam performance, irritation

中图分类号:

TQ423

郭华,徐进,何云平,许虎君. 椰油酰水解燕麦蛋白钾对氨基酸洁面膏的性能影响[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2022, 52(12): 1307-1313.

Guo Hua,Xu Jin,He Yunping,Xu Hujun. Effects of potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein on the performance of the amino acid facial cleanser[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2022, 52(12): 1307-1313.

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组分	原料名称	w/%
组分	原料名称	P-1	P-2	P-3	P-4
A	去离子水	至100	至100	至100	至100
	EDTA 二钠	0.05	0.05	0.05	0.05
	柠檬酸	1.10	1.10	1.10	1.10
B	甘油	15.00	15.00	15.00	15.00
C	椰油酰甘氨酸钠	40.00	40.00	40.00	40.00
D	椰油酰水解燕麦蛋白钾	15.00
	月桂酰肌氨酸钠		15.00
	月桂酰两性基乙酸钠			15.00
	椰油酰基苹果氨基酸钠				15.00

N值/（g/L）	判断标准
>4	强刺激性
2~4	低刺激性
<2	无刺激性