酶解羊胎盘抗氧化肽的分离及在护肤品中的应用

doi:10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2017.08.006

摘要/Abstract

摘要： 为开发酶解法制备的羊胎盘抗氧化肽在化妆品中的应用,采用木瓜蛋白酶酶解羊胎盘下脚料,通过DA201-C型大孔吸附树脂、超滤膜和Sephadex G-10葡聚糖凝胶色谱分离纯化,并对各组分进行抗氧化活性的测定,筛选得到具有较高DPPH自由基清除率的羊胎盘抗氧化肽S12。配制不同S12质量分数的护肤乳液和润肤晚霜,采用MC750型皮肤测试仪评价样品的保湿和弹性功效。结果表明,15名志愿者持续使用添加质量分数4% S12的护肤乳液和润肤晚霜60 d 后,角质层含水量分别增长了27和31,皮肤水分流失量分别降低了12.0和13.2 g/(m²·h),皮肤弹性参数R₂分别升高了38%和45%。研究表明,添加了羊胎盘抗氧化肽的护肤品具有良好的保湿和提高皮肤弹性的功效。

关键词: 化妆品添加剂, 羊胎盘, 酶解, 抗氧化肽, 功效评价

Abstract: In order to develop application of antioxidative peptides from sheep placenta byproduct by enzymolysis in cosmetics,papain was employed for the enzymolysis and DPPH radical scavenging activity of the hydrolysate was used for efficacy evaluation.The hydrolysate by papain was purified sequentially by DA201-C macroporous resin,ultrafiltration and Sephadex G-10 gel filtration.Fractions obtained from purification operations were evaluated.The sheep placenta peptide S12 displays the highest DPPH radical scavenging activity and was selected for further study.The formulas of skin care lotion and cream containing different content of S12 (0-5%) were designed,and the moisturizing and elastic effect of all skin care product samples were evaluated by MC750 skin test instrument.Results show that after continuous using the skin care lotion and cream containing 4% content of S12 for 60 d,the skin cuticula hydration of 15 volunteers increases by 27 and 31 respectively;the transepidermal water loss reduces by 12.0 and 13.2 g/(m²·h) respectively;and the skin elasticity R₂ increases by 38% and 45% respectively.It is concluded that the skin care lotion and cream containing sheep placenta peptide can improve skin moisturizing and increase skin elasticity.

Key words: additive of cosmetics, sheep placenta, enzymolysis, antioxidative peptide, efficacy evaluation

中图分类号:

TQ658

李明, 姜惠敏, 曹光群, 杨成. 酶解羊胎盘抗氧化肽的分离及在护肤品中的应用[J]. 日用化学工业, 2017, 47(8): 446-451.

LI Ming, JIANG Hui-min, CAO Guang-qun, YANG Cheng. Separation of antioxidative peptides from sheep placenta byproduct by enzymolysis and its application in cosmetics[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2017, 47(8): 446-451.

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