复合广谱紫外线吸收剂在防晒化妆品中的应用研究

doi:10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2014.05.061

摘要/Abstract

摘要： 采用紫外分光光度法对16种中草药提取液的紫外线吸收效果进行筛选和复配研究。结果表明,由罗勒、草果、款冬花、山姜、椴树花、鼠尾草和槐米等中草药的提取液等质量组成的组合物具有较佳紫外线吸收效果,并与化学紫外线吸收剂进行了组合优化,优化组合(质量分数)为:甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯7.0%、奥克立林2.0%、二乙氨羟苯甲酰基苯甲酸己酯3.0%。当天然紫外线吸收剂组合物为5.0%,与优化的化学紫外线吸收剂组合物复配,应用产品的SPF值可达31.1,PFA值为8.7,达到了广谱紫外线吸收的效果,应用产品的刺激性也大大降低。

关键词: 防晒化妆品, 复合紫外线吸收剂, 中草药, 天然紫外线吸收剂, 化学紫外线吸收剂

Abstract: Ultraviolet spectrophotometry for selecting and compounding of 16 kinds of natural UV absorbents was studied.Results showed that a blend composed of extract of equal mass of Chinese traditional herb medicines namely,Basil,Tsaoko,Coltsfoot flower,Alpinia,Linden tree flower,Sage and Sophora japonica displays good UV protection effect.Meanwhile,chemical UV absorbents were also studied to find an optimized UV absorbing formulation.Combination and amount of chemical UV absorbents were optimized as follows:ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate,7.0%;octocrylene,2.0%;diethylamine hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate,3.0%.The application research was done,and results showed that when 5% of the UV absorbent blend made of Chinese traditional herb medicines is compounded with the optimized blend made of chemical UV absorbent combination,the SPF and PFA value of application product achieves 31.1 and 8.7 respectively,which meets the required effect of protection from broad-spectrum UV and the skin irritation of the product reduces significantly.

Key words: sun-screening cosmetics, composite UV absorbent, Chinese herbs, natural UV absorbent, chemical UV absorbent

中图分类号:

TQ658

陈庆生, 孟潇, 龚盛昭, 孔胜仲, 孙永. 复合广谱紫外线吸收剂在防晒化妆品中的应用研究[J]. 日用化学工业, 2014, 44(5): 273-277.

CHEN Qing-sheng, MENG Xiao, GONG Sheng-zhao, KONG Sheng-zhong, SUN Yong. Application of composite UV absorbent in sun-screening cosmetics[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2014, 44(5): 273-277.

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