Table of Content

22 March 2018, Volume 48 Issue 3 Previous Issue    Next Issue

Basic research

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Dual stimuli-responsive properties of ammonium 11-benzylselanyl undecanoate QIN Fei, LIU Xue-feng 2018, 48 (3):  123-128.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2018.03.001 Abstract ( 274 )   PDF (3222KB) ( 255 )   A kind of redox and CO2/N2 dual stimuli-responsive surfactant ammonium 11-benzylselanyl undecanoate (BSeUA) was synthesized.The molecular structure change of BSeUA triggered by redox and CO2/N2 was studied with Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FT-IR),Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (NMR) and Electrospray Ionization Mass Spectrometry (ESI-MS).Results show that the selenium-containing group can be reversibly switched between bivalent selenide (-Se-) and tetravalent selenoxide (-Se=O) by alternately adding hydrogen peroxide and hydrazine hydrate,and the CO2-sensitive group can be reversibly switched between carboxylate (-COO-) and carboxylic acid (-COOH) by bubbling CO2 and N2.Thus,the BSeUA-stabilized emulsion can be switched reversibly between de-emulsification and re-emulsification over five times at least.No obvious adverse changes in droplet size and the relative stability of the regenerated emulsions are observed. References | Related Articles | Metrics

Lecture of science and technology

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Efficacy evaluation of cosmetics (Ⅲ) Scientific supports for whitening cosmetic efficacy claims ZHAO Hua, WANG Nan 2018, 48 (3):  129-133.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2018.03.002 Abstract ( 686 )   PDF (694KB) ( 616 )   The skin color influencing factors,melanin formation and skin whitening mechanism were summarized.Various methods for evaluating whitening cosmetics such as biochemical method,physicochemical method,cell biological method,three-dimensional recombinant skin model alternative method,animal experiment method,subjective evaluation and objective instrumental evaluation method et al were introduced.The new idea of whitening cosmetics efficacy evaluation was proposed and the development direction of it was put forward. References | Related Articles | Metrics

Development and application

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Performance of hydrophobic modified corn bran arabinoxylan CHEN Feng-feng, YANG Cheng 2018, 48 (3):  134-139.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2018.03.003 Abstract ( 349 )   PDF (3128KB) ( 253 )   Alkali-soluble arabinoxylan (AX) was extracted from corn bran by alkali-hydrogen peroxide method.Then,the amphiphilic alkylated arabinoxylans (Cn-AX) were obtained by hydrophobic modification of the AX with 1-bromobutane,1-bromododecane,and 1-bromohexadecane,separately.Performance of aqueous solution of the AX and hydrophobic modified AX (the Cn-AX) was investigated by fluorescent molecular probe,dynamic light scattering,scanning electron microscopy,and rheometer.Results show that the Cn-AX can form associated aggregates above a certain mass concentration in solution.The hydrophobic association led to a higher viscosity of the aqueous solutions of Cn-AX than that of aqueous solution of AX.In addition,the emulsifying power of the AX and Cn-AX was evaluated by preparing a series of oil-in-water emulsions.Results show that their emulsion stability is influenced by the length of alkyl chain and the mass fraction of the Cn-AX.The emulsifying power of Cn-AX prepared with 1-bromohexadecane is better than that of Tween 80,which is commonly used. References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Study on crude oil flooding effect of SDBS/DATB blend microemulsion flooding agent and conventional three component flooding agent YIN Dai-yin, JIA Jiang-fen 2018, 48 (3):  140-143.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2018.03.004 Abstract ( 306 )   PDF (643KB) ( 458 )   In order to explore the effect of crude oil flooding of the anionic and cationic surfactant blend microemulsion system,the optimized mole ratio between sodium dodecyl bezene sulfonate (SDBS) and dodecyl trimethyl ammonium bromide (DTAB) and the mass fraction of total surfactants were studied.Through comparing the crude oil flooding effect of the blend microemulsion system and that of the conventional three component oil flooding agent (ASP),the improvement for the crude oil flooding capacilty of the microemulsion flooding is indicated.Results show that the optimum formula of the blend microemulsion flooding system is suggested as:n-octane,5 mL;water,5 mL;1.5% mass fraction of SDBS and DTAB with molar ratio of 1∶4;mass fraction 4% of n-butanol;mass fraction 5.2% of NaCl.As comparing with water flooding,the recovery rate of microemulsion flooding increases from 6.48% to 7.56%.As comparing with ASP,the recovery rate of microemulsion flooding increases from 0.06% to 0.35%. References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Effects of different vegetable oils on the characteristics of cold process soap TIAN Wen-ni, LIANG Zuan-hao, ZENG Li-ping, LI Li-nan, LU Zhi, DU Bing 2018, 48 (3):  144-150.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2018.03.005 Abstract ( 468 )   PDF (3063KB) ( 327 )   Coconut oil,palm oil,olive oil,camellia oil,shea butter,sweet almond oil,sacha inchi oil and jojoba oil were used as raw materials to make three groups of different vegetable oil content soaps by cold process for studying the effects of vegetable oil species on the characteristics of cold process soap.Eventually,the skin sensory evaluation of cold process soap made by blended vegetable oil were conducted.Results reveal that species and content of vegetable oils have no significant influences on the pH value of cold process soap,but have influences on all other characteristics of cold process soap.The cold process soap made from coconut oil has high hardness and foaming power,and rich in foam quantity,but short Trace time.Trace time of the soap is shortened when coconut oil is mixed with some unsaturated vegetable oils,while the hardness and foaming power of cold process soap are improved at the same time.Addition of camellia oil,sweet almond oil and olive oil in the soap contributes to foaming.The stability of foam can be enhanced by addition of olive oil;but foaming performance is deteriorated when shea butter and jojoba oil are added.When sacha inchi oil is used in the cold process soap,it will be obtained of the following performances like high moisturizing ability,exquisite foaming power,comfortable washing feeling,and best skin feeling. References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Analysis of facial skin surface lipid of female youth in morning and night based on lipidomics method GAN Yao, HE Cong-fen, HE Ke-ke, LI Xin-chao, JIA Yan 2018, 48 (3):  151-155.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2018.03.006 Abstract ( 312 )   PDF (907KB) ( 308 )   The methods for skin surface lipid (SSL) collection,detection and analysis were established based on lipidomics.The SSL values of female youth from same group in morning and night respectively were tested and analyzed by statistics.Results show that there are significant differences of SSL between the two times,and the further study reveals that the composition and contents of eight kinds of lipids are quite distinct,and this is also adequate for some common lipids such as triglycerides,diglycerides and ceramide.These results indicate that the differences among SSL values may be related to diversified skin status under different seasonal and weather conditions. References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Clinical efficacy testing and analysis of skin whitening mask SUN Chang-lei, YU Xiao-xia, ZHU Li-ping 2018, 48 (3):  156-161.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2018.03.007 Abstract ( 606 )   PDF (2115KB) ( 335 )   Self-developed whitening mask was tested on the clinical efficacy and its whiting efficacy was evaluated.At the inception of the study,32 healthy volunteers used the product every two days for eight weeks and disused any other whitening products at the same time.Respectively 0 weeks before use and 2,4 and 8 weeks after use,the skin stratum corneum hydration,black and red degrees,L* value and b* value were tested,and the pictures of front,left and right face were get by VISIA intelligent camera system.Results show that whitening mask can improve skin stratum corneum hydration,increase skin brightness L* value and ITA° value,reduce skin blackness and yellowness b* value.Meanwhile,the mask can reduce the skin pore value and wrinkle and texture score.Whitening and jaundice-eliminating mask has an excellent whitening efficacy, which also can make the skin smooth and delicate,reduce wrinkles and texture. References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Study on scavenging effect for hydroxyl radicals and inhibitory effect on tyrosinase in water soluble extracts fromChinese kiwifruit ZHANG Qing, XU Yong-wei, LIU Wei, GONG Sheng-zhao 2018, 48 (3):  162-165.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2018.03.008 Abstract ( 251 )   PDF (734KB) ( 300 )   Scavenging capacity for hydroxyl radicals in water soluble extracts from Chinese kiwifruit was detected.The hydroxyl radicals were generated from Fenton reaction.The inhibitory action of water soluble extracts from Chinese kiwifruit on the activity of monophenolase and diphenolase contained in tyrosinase were studied by using L-tyrosinase and L-DOPA as the substrates.Results show that the water soluble extracts from Chinese kiwifruit can scavenge hydroxyl radicals effectively.The hydroxyl radical elimination ratio of the water soluble extracts achieves 95.57% when the mass concentration is 1.0 g/L.The water soluble extracts from Chinese kiwifruit inhibit both monophenolase and diphenolase activities of tyrosinase effectively with IC50 at 0.28 and 0.35 g/L respectively.The study of kinetics show that the inhibitory mechanism of the water soluble extracts from Chinese kiwifruit on diphenolase is reversible,and the inhibitory type is the mixed-type inhibition. References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Skin whitening efficacy and mechanism study of palmitoyl tripeptide-5 GAO Ya-qian, TANG Jian, WANG Zhi-yong, WEI Xiao-li, CAI Ya 2018, 48 (3):  166-171.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2018.03.009 Abstract ( 1034 )   PDF (919KB) ( 519 )   To evaluate skin whitening efficacy and mechanism of palmitoyl tripeptide-5,the cell viability was detected by MTT method,B16 guinea pig melanoma cell models treated by α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH) and hyperpigment of UVB-stimulated dorsal skin of guinea pigs were measured.Activity of tyrosinase,the mRNA expression of MITF and tyrosinase were investigated.Results show that palmitoyl tripeptide-5 exert a skin whitening efficacy by inhibiting melanin production via downregulation of MITF and tyrosinase expression,inhibiting activity of tyrosinase in melanocytes.Colorimetric analysis shows that the palmitoyl tripeptide-5 significantly inhibit the pigmentation and reduce the gray value in UVB-irradiated guinea pig dorsal skin area (P<0.05). References | Related Articles | Metrics

Reviews

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Progress in research work field with respect to phase behavior of surfactant aqueous solutions GUO Hai-yan, YAO Chen-zhi, YAN Fang 2018, 48 (3):  172-177.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2018.03.010 Abstract ( 309 )   PDF (717KB) ( 381 )   Several methods for studying the phase behavior of surfactant solutions were reviewed.The research progress of phase behavior of several surfactant blends were described.The effects of temperature,salt and organic matters on phase behavior of surfactant solutions were discussed. References | Related Articles | Metrics

Analytical methods and testing

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Simultaneous determination of 12 kinds of preservatives in cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography HAN Xiao-ping, LI Ya-nan, ZHOU Pei 2018, 48 (3):  178-182.  doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2018.03.011 Abstract ( 302 )   PDF (760KB) ( 357 )   HPLC method was established for simultaneous determination of 12 kinds of preservatives in cosmetics.Samples were extracted by methanol,then separated by Phenomenex Luna C18 column (4.6 mm×250 mm,5 μm) using acetonitrile and 0.1% phosphoric acid as mobile phase with gradient elution,the detection wavelengths were 280 and 254 nm,and the column temperature was 30 ℃.The calibration curves shows good linear relationship in the range of injection volume and all the correlation coefficients are above 0.996,the average recoveries spiked at 60%,100%,140% are in the range of 95.2%-112.1% with RSD of 0.36%-2.64% (n=9).The method shows good reproducibility and durability through detection of 40 batches of samples.It can be used for simultaneous determination of 12 kinds of preservatives in cosmetics. References | Related Articles | Metrics