云南特色植物资源在化妆品中的研究与应用

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.12.014

Abstract

Abstract:

Based on the safety and efficacy of plant extracts, plant resources have been widely used in the fields of medicine, food and agriculture. The development of herbs and other characteristic plants is a unique advantage of botanical cosmetics in China. According to the 2021 Yunnan Ecological and Environmental Status Bulletin, Yunnan has 19 333 known species of higher plants （50.1% of the country）, including 8 772 species of Chinese endemic higher plants, and 211 species of plants are endemic to or distributed only in Yunnan. This paper presents an overview of the topographical features of 16 cities in Yunnan and the regional distribution, growing seasons and production of characteristic plant resources in Yunnan. And using the above overview as a starting point, this paper systematically analyzes for the first time the distribution of Gentiana crassicaulis, Eucalyptus camaldulensis, Paris polyphylla var. yunnanensis, Dendrobium officinale and other 22 Yunnan characteristic plant resources in the development of anti-acne, moisturizing, whitening, anti-wrinkle and firming cosmetics of the current situation and the application prospects. This study provides reliable theoretical support for the research and efficacy application of Yunnan’s characteristic plant materials as cosmetic ingredients.

Key words: cosmetic efficacy ingredients, Yunnan characteristic plant resources, regional distribution, cosmetic applications

CLC Number:

TQ658

Xiaoman Sun, Xianyao Meng, Wen Zhou, Miaomiao Guo, Xiao Ling, Li Li. Research and application of Yunnan characteristic plant resources in cosmetics[J].China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2023, 53(12): 1459-1465.

Figures/Tables 2

Tab. 1

Topographical features and climatic characteristics of 16 cities and states in Yunnan"

区域	州、市	地形特点	气候特征
滇西北	丽江市	位于云南省横断山区腹地（100°13′E，26°52′N），海拔2 400 m	东亚季风气候，冬干夏雨
	怒江市	位于云南省西部横断山脉的高山峡谷地带	亚热带山地季风气候，受地势影响，垂直变化显著
	迪庆州	位于云南省西北部青藏高原东南边缘，横断山南段北端，是滇、川、藏三省（区）交界处	温带-寒温带气候，太阳辐射强，昼夜温差大，干湿季分明，立体气候显著，区域性、坡向性突出
滇东北	昭通市	地处云岭高原与四川盆地的结合部	亚热带、暖温带共存的高原季风立体气候
滇东	曲靖市	地处滇东高原（102~104°E，24~27°N）	具有从南亚热带到北温带的6种气候类型，以亚热带高原季风气候为主，干湿季分明，湿季雨量占全年降水的85%以上；干季降水稀少，日照充足
滇中	昆明市	位于云贵高原中部，东西两侧地势较高，中部陷落形成滇池	中亚热带温润气候区
	楚雄州	位于云贵高原西部，滇中高原中部，地势西北高、东南低，高山、深谷、盆地、丘陵相互交错	亚热带季风气候，日温差大、年温差小；冬无严寒、夏无酷暑；干湿分明、雨热同季；日照充足，霜期较短；降水偏少，春夏旱重
	玉溪市	地处滇中高原，向滇南、滇东南中低山和丘陵过渡，南北深切割、中山类型山地为主	中亚热带湿润冷冬高原季风气候，气候温和，光照充足
	大理州	位于云南省西部，云贵高原上的洱海平原，苍山之麓，洱海之滨	低纬度高原季风气候，年温差小，四季不明显
滇西南	德宏州	地处高黎贡山西南麓，属滇西南中低山宽谷盆地类型	南亚热带季风气候，受西南暖湿气流影响，降雨量多，集中在5~10月
	保山市	位于云南省西南部，东与大理白族自治州、临沧市接壤，北与怒江傈僳族自治州相连，西与德宏傣族景颇族自治州毗邻，西北、正南同缅甸交界	低纬山地亚热带季风气候，年温差小，日温差大，年均气温为14~17 ℃
	临沧市	位于云南西南部，东邻普洱，北连大理州，西接保山，西南与缅甸交界，地处澜沧江与怒江之间	亚热带低纬高原山地季风气候，全年平均气温始终保持在18 ℃左右，全年霜期较短，年日照时间1 800 h左右
滇南	西双版纳州	位于北回归线以南的热带北部边沿，东北、西北与普洱市接壤，东南与老挝相连，西南与缅甸接壤	热带季风气候，高温多雨、干湿季分明而四季不明显
滇南	普洱市	位于云南省西南部，东临红河、玉溪，南接西双版纳，西北连临沧，北靠大理、楚雄，东南与越南、老挝接壤，西南与缅甸毗邻	亚热带季风气候，常年无霜，冬无严寒，夏无酷暑，负氧离子含量在七级以上
滇东南	红河州	位于云南省东南部，东北部基本属于滇中高原区，西北部属横断山脉的哀牢山南部南延部分	亚热带高原季风气候，干、雨季节区分较为显著，5~10月份为雨季，降雨量占全州总降雨量的80%以上，6~8月份是大强度连续降雨主要集中的时段，具有时空地域分布极不均匀的特征
滇东南	文山州	位于云南省东南部，东与广西百色市接壤，南与越南社会主义共和国接界，西与红河哈尼族彝族自治州毗邻，北与曲靖市相连	亚热带气候，冬无严寒，夏无酷暑。干凉和雨热同季，年温差小，日温差大，大陆度不到40%，海洋性气候比较明显，春温高于秋温，无霜期长，霜雪少

Tab. 1

Tab. 2

Distribution, growing season, yield and activity of characteristic plants in Yunnan"

名称	拉丁学名	地理分布	生长季节	年产量/吨	已使用化妆品原料中文名称	活性作用
粗茎秦艽	Gentiana crassicaulis	海拔2 100~4 500米的山坡草地、高山草甸、灌丛中、林下及林缘	花果期6~10月	1.1万	—	抗菌、抗炎、抗氧化^[2]
赤桉	Eucalyptus camaldulensis	高原北部金沙江干热河谷地区	花期12月~次年8月		—	抑菌、抗氧化^[3]
云南重楼	Paris polyphylla var. yunnanensis	滇西横断山脉地区	花期6~7月，果期9~10月	约1万	云南重楼（PARIS POLYPHYLLA YUNNANENSIS）提取物	抗炎、抗菌、修护^[4,5]
滇龙胆	Gentiana rigescens	滇中海拔1 000~2 800米地区	花果期8~12月	约1万	滇龙胆（GENTIANA RIGESCENS）提取物	抗菌、抗炎、抗氧化^[6]
山玉兰	Magnolia delavayi	海拔1 500~2 800米的石灰岩山地阔叶林中或沟边较潮湿的坡地	花期4~6月，果期8~10月		—	抗炎、抗氧化、抗过敏^[7]
铁皮石斛	Dendrobium officinale	海拔1 600米的山地半阴湿的岩石上	花期3~6月	约1万	铁皮石斛（DENDROBIUM OFFICINALE）提取物	抗氧化、保湿^[8]
云苓	Poria cocos	滇南亚热带地区	花期5~11月，果期11月~次年4月	3.5万	茯苓（PORIA COCOS）提取物	保湿^[9]
云南沙参	Adenophora khansiana	滇东南及滇西北各大山区	8~10月开花		—	抗氧化、美白^[10]
天麻	Gastrodia elata	海拔1 200~1 800米的林下阴湿、腐殖质较厚的地方	花期6~7月，果期7~8月	约1万	天麻（GASTRODIA ELATA）提取物	防止皮肤色素沉着、美白^[11]
云南黄连	Coptis teeta	海拔1 500~2 300米间的高山寒湿的林荫下	花果期2~6月		云南黄连（COPTIS TEETA）提取物	抗菌、抗炎、抗氧化^[12]
薯蓣	Dioscorea polystachya	海拔150~1 500米的山坡、山谷林下，溪边、路旁的灌丛中或杂草中	花期6~9月，果期7~11月		多穗状花薯蓣（DIOSCOREA POLYSTACHYA）提取物	美白^[13]
阳春砂仁	Amomun villosum	西双版纳州	花期4~6月，果期8~9月	1.7万	—	美白、抑菌、抗氧化^[14]
普洱	Camellia sinensis var. assamica	生于海拔1 000~2 100米、坡度≤25°的山地	2月~9月	17.2万	—	抗菌、抗氧化^[15]
雪茶	Thamnolia vermicularis	丽江市玉龙雪山	夏季		地茶（THAMNOLIA VERMICULARIS）叶提取物	保湿、抗皱^[16]
云南红豆杉	Taxus yunnanensis	滇西北及滇西部的海拔2 000~3 500米高山地带	夏季		—	抗氧化^[17]
三七	Panax notoginseng	滇东南生于海拔1 200~1 800米地带	夏季和秋季为生长高峰期	3.6万	三七（PANAX NOTOGINSENG）叶/茎提取物	抗衡皮肤光老化、抗衰^[18]
云南枸杞	Lyciumamide yunnanense	禄劝县和景东县	春季		—	抗炎、抗氧化^[19]
余甘子	Phyllanthus emblica	滇南亚热带三江两岸和小流域地区的干旱河谷地区	花期4~6月，果期7~9月	约1万	余甘子（PHYLLANTHUS EMBLICA）提取物	抗菌、抗衰老、抗氧化^[20]
花椒	Zanthoxylum bungeanum	丽江市海拔2 000~2 500米的山地疏林中	花期4~5月，果期8~10月	8.8万	花椒（ZANTHOXYLUM BUNGEANUM）果提取物	抑菌、防脱发^[21]
青梅	Vatica mangachapoi	海拔700米以下的丘陵、坡地林中	花期5~6月，果期8~9月		—	抗菌、抗氧化、防脱发、促进皮肤愈合^[22]
黄花蒿	Artemisia annua	海拔2 000~3 000米地区荒地、山坡、林缘等处	花果期8~11月		黄花蒿（ARTEMISIA ANNUA）叶提取物	抗菌、保湿、芳香^[23]
云木香	Saussurea lappa	丽江市海拔2 500~3 200米地区	花果期7~10月	2 600~ 3 000	云木香（SAUSSUREA LAPPA）根提取物	调香^[24]

Tab. 2

References 25

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Research and application of Yunnan characteristic plant resources in cosmetics

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