O/W乳化体系化妆品感官评价与仪器分析相关性研究进展

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.03.014

Abstract

Abstract:

With the rapid growth of the cosmetics industry, sensory evaluation is required when designing and optimizing products to meet consumers’ increasing needs and aspirations. Instrumental measurement methods such as rheology measurement and texture analysis have the advantages of simple operation, lower cost, objective and repeatability, which can control individual differences when using “people” as a tool for sensory evaluation. This article reviewed the literature on sensory evaluation and instrumental analysis and characterization of cosmetics in the domestic and overseas, introduced the definitions of various sensory attributes in sensory analysis, summarized instrument parameters and test methods strongly related to sensory attributes, and listed fitting equations for some sensory attributes and instrument parameters, providing a scientific basis for the formulation design and screening of cosmetics during R&D. However, there was an incomplete study of the correlation between certain sensory properties and instrument parameters, such as visual acuity, softness, smoothness, moisture, and other sensory properties. Subsequent studies should also consider the differences in sensory properties of consumers with different skin types after cosmetics use. The information in this paper would help readers to understand the correlation between sensory evaluation and instrumental parameters, providing a scientific reference for the development of cosmetics with good skin sensation.

Key words: sensory evaluation, rheological properties, texture analysis technology, mathematical model

CLC Number:

TQ658

Wenrui Zhou, Jianbiao He, Qian Jiao, Zidi Wang, Qianqian Su, Yan Jia. Research progress of the correlation between sensory evaluation and instrumental analysis of cosmetics in O/W emulsion system[J].China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(3): 344-352.

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References 22

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评价阶段	感官属性	定义
外观	光泽度	从产品反射的光的量
	形状完整性	产品保持给定形状的程度
	扩散量	产品在培养皿中的扩散程度
	平滑度	产品表面平整度
拾取	坚实度	将产品完全压缩在拇指和食指之间所需的力
	缓冲效果	摩擦时感知的水量
	爽滑性	拇指和食指之间移动自如的程度
	黏性	产品的延伸程度
	穿透力	食指插入产品所需的力
	易拾取	手指可以拾取的产品量
	拾取后的峰值	手指拿起后产品直立的程度
	密集度	产品的紧凑性
涂抹	铺展难度	将产品在皮肤上轻松移动的难度
	厚度	手指与手指之间感知的产品量
	吸收性	产品完全失去继续被感知的湿感和高阻力所需的时间
	热熔化	由于机体的热量和摩擦，产品从固体到半固体再到液体状态的变化量
	湿润度	产品摩擦时感知的水量
	热冷却	接触点因产品蒸发速率而产生的冷感
	白度	产品摩擦时变白的程度
后感	黏性	皮肤感觉油腻程度
	水分	手指在皮肤上移动时感知的水分量
	光泽度	皮肤反射的光的量
	滑度	能轻松在皮肤上移动的程度
	残留外观	残留在皮肤上的产品量
	残留物类型	残留在皮肤上的产品特征

特性	参数	高分散相（80% （w/%））	低分散相（30% （w/%））
流变特性	弹性模量	显著变化	无（显著）变化
流变特性	黏度（η）	显著变化	无（显著）变化
质构特性	硬度	显著变化	无（显著）变化
	黏稠度	显著变化	无（显著）变化
	内聚力	显著变化	无（显著）变化

特性	参数	高分散相（80% （w/%））	低分散相（30% （w/%））
平均液滴尺寸	索特平均直径（d₃₂）	无（显著）变化	无（显著）变化
液滴尺寸分布	液滴尺寸	显著变化	无（显著）变化

名称	测试方法	定义
屈服应力	压力斜坡和阶跃剪切试验	瞬时黏度达到最大值时的应力
IVM		定义屈服应力的最大值
应力过冲		对未受扰动的样品施加恒定剪切速率时的最大应力
G'	2 Hz的振荡应变扫描	低应变极限下的弹性模量
G'/G''		低应变极限下的弹性模量与黏性模量之比
振荡屈服应力		弹性应力的最大值，即弹性模量与应变幅值的乘积

评价阶段	感官属性	仪器及测试方法	密切相关的力学参数
外观	形状完整性	模拟坍塌试验	样本从注射器沉积在平面基材上的相对高度损失
拾取	坚实度	旋转流变仪应力斜坡和阶跃剪切试验、2 Hz的振荡应变扫描	屈服点的瞬时黏度
	黏性		屈服点的瞬时黏度、G'/G''
	峰值量		屈服点的瞬时黏度
涂抹	铺展难度	旋转流变仪应力斜坡和阶跃剪切试验、2 Hz的振荡应变扫描	屈服点的瞬时黏度、G'/G''
涂抹	厚度	旋转流变仪应力斜坡和阶跃剪切试验、2 Hz的振荡应变扫描	屈服点的瞬时黏度、G'/G''

Research progress of the correlation between sensory evaluation and instrumental analysis of cosmetics in O/W emulsion system

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感官属性	预测模型	仪器参数
光泽度	单变量模型	光度仪测量乳剂在60°时的镜面反射光泽度
形状完整性	多元预测模型	黏性模量
		松弛时间
		挤出功
穿透力	多元预测模型	挤压功
		挤压功和压缩功的组合
		挤出功、最大穿透力和弹性柔度
压缩力	单变量模型	曲线下面积=f（时间）对应于压缩功
黏性	多元预测模型	长丝的断裂长度（拉伸长度）
黏性	多元预测模型	剪切速率0.1 s^-1时的黏度
铺展难度	单变量模型	曲线下面积=f（时间）对应于摩擦功

感官属性	质构仪测试方法	感官属性与相关质构参数的拟合方程	最佳相关性的仪器测试条件
铺展难度	锥形探针P/4C以1.0/3.0/5.0 mm/s的速率穿透容器（直径50 mm，约75%满）中的样品至25 mm深，然后返回其原始位置	铺展难度=7.78-2.88log（质构曲线梯度）	测试速率为5 mm/s 质构曲线中3~5.5秒之间的中间时间阶段的梯度
坚实度	反向挤出（A/BE）模式以预测坚实度，圆盘（35 mm）以1.0/3.0/5.0 mm/s的速率穿透容器（直径50 mm，约75%满）中的样品至25 mm深，然后返回其原始位置	坚实度=2.44+3.39log（质构曲线的最大力）	测试速率为5 mm/s （速率变化对测试结果影响较小）
拾取后峰值	探针P1S进行粘附测试，以预测拾取后的峰值和易拾取程度。在底板中加入一定量的样品（3 mL）。P1S探头以1 mm/s的速度穿透样品，直到穿透力达到100 g或150 g，将穿透力保持3 s，然后回到起始位置	拾取后峰值=1.34+4.23log（质构曲线面积）	100 g的外力
易拾取		易取=2.13+3.96log（质构曲线面积）	100 g的外力
黏性	在38 mm×41 mm 3M基板中加入一定量的样品（0.5 mL），然后用手指铺开，直到均匀。涂布后1 min，用P1S探头按上述步骤进行黏附性试验	黏性=7.39+8.38log（质构曲线的最大作用力）	—

相关性类型	感官属性参数	仪器参数
相关性类型	感官属性参数	正相关	负相关
强相关性	视觉残留	坚实度	黏聚性
	1 min视觉残留物	坚实度	黏聚性
	黏附性	tan δ	η （0.01），σ_s
	柔软性	黏聚性	坚实度，G'
	1 min油腻感	tan δ，黏聚性	η （0.01），σ_s
弱相关性	视觉残留	η （0.01），σ_s，σ_crossover	—
	1 min视觉残留物	η （0.01），σ_s，σ_crossover	—
	黏附性	n	γ_DL，60 s（%）
	柔软性	—	σ_s

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