China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics ›› 2026, Vol. 56 ›› Issue (9): 1233-1241.doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2026.09.012
• Reviews • Previous Articles Next Articles
Lifen Chen1,Mo Chen2,Junfang Zhang1,Ya Zhao2,Ting Zhang1,*(
)
Received:2026-01-15
Revised:2026-08-20
Online:2026-09-22
Published:2026-09-30
Contact:
*E-mail: CLC Number:
Lifen Chen, Mo Chen, Junfang Zhang, Ya Zhao, Ting Zhang. Research progress on evaluation methods for hair loss prevention, hair darkening, and anti-dandruff activities[J].China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2026, 56(9): 1233-1241.
Tab.1
Evaluation methods for hair loss prevention, hair darkening and anti-dandruff activities"
| 检测类型 | 核心模型 | 关键指标 | 优势 | 局限性 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 脱发检测 | DPCs培养、雄激素诱导小鼠模型 | 毛囊密度、生长周期比例、AR表达 | 可模拟病理机制,动态观察再生过程 | 动物模型周期长,体外模型缺乏微环境 |
| 乌发检测 | 黑素细胞培养、卡博替尼、氢醌诱导小鼠模型 | 黑色素含量、TYR活性、白发率 | 量化精度高,机制研究深入 | 基因编辑模型成本高,毛囊培养周期短 |
| 抗头皮屑检测 | 马拉色菌药敏试验、人体半头试验 | MIC值、鳞屑评分、菌群丰度、TEWL值 | 人体评价贴近实际应用,微生物检测精准 | 动物模型与人类病理相似度有限 |
| [1] |
Liu Y, Yang S, Zeng Y, et al. Dysregulated behaviour of hair follicle stem cells triggers alopecia and provides potential therapeutic targets[J]. Exp. Dermatol., 2022, 31 (7) : 986-992.
doi: 10.1111/exd.14600 pmid: 35524394 |
| [2] | Zhang H L, Qiu X X, Liao X H. Dermal papilla cells: From basic research to translational applications[J]. Biology, 2024, 13 (10) : 842. |
| [3] | Zhang Ye, Wang Kexin, Liu Liping. Advances in the study of melanocyte stem cells in pigmentary skin disorders[J]. Dermatology Bulletin, 2024, 41 (5) : 473-478. |
| [4] | Bacqueville D, Marguerite L, Camille M, et al. New plant extracts exert complementary anti‐hair loss properties in human in vitro and ex vivo models[J]. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2024, 23 (S5) : 1-11. |
| [5] |
Yang Yingying, Wang Gang, Yang Qian, et al. Effect study of Sonic hedgehog overexpressed hair follicle stem cells in hair follicle regeneration[J]. Chinese Journal of Reparative and Reconstructive Surgery, 2023, 37 (7) : 868-878.
doi: 10.7507/1002-1892.202304008 pmid: 37460185 |
| [6] | Makoto T, Kyosuke A, Toyoshima K, et al. Expansion and characterization of epithelial stem cells with potential for cyclical hair regeneration[J]. Scientific Reports, 2021, 11 (1) : 1173. |
| [7] |
Langan E A, Philpott M P, Kloepper J E, et al. Human hair follicle organ culture: theory, application and perspectives[J]. Exp. Dermatol., 2015, 24 (12) : 903-911.
doi: 10.1111/exd.12836 pmid: 26284830 |
| [8] |
Philpott M P, Green M R, Kealey T. Human hair growth in vitro[J]. J. Cell Sci., 1990, 97 (Pt 3) : 463-471.
doi: 10.1242/jcs.97.3.463 |
| [9] | Jaeyoon K, Young S J, Yun-Ho C, et al. Hair Growth promoting effect of hottuynia cordata extract in cultured human hair follicle dermal papilla cells[J]. Biological & Pharmaceutical Bulletin, 2019, 42 (10) : 1665-1673. |
| [10] |
Uno H, Cappas A, Brigham P. Action of topical minoxidil in the bald stump-tailed macaque[J]. J. Am. Acad. Dermatol., 1987, 16 (3 Pt 2) : 657-668.
doi: 10.1016/S0190-9622(87)70084-X |
| [11] | Wu Rihhan, Li Yan. Research progress on the establishment of animal models of androgenetic alopecia[J]. Medical Journal of Wuhan University, 2025, 46 (2) : 267-271,276. |
| [12] | Xiang Yujie, Lu Lihuang, Wang Xu, et al. Effect of saw palmetto-scutellaria baicalensis extract in regulating androgen conversion for androgenetic alopecia[J]. Central South Pharmacy, 2025, 23 (5) : 1344-1350. |
| [13] | Hu Jiayuan, Li Nuo, Di Jun, et al. Study on the therapeutic effect of danshinone on androgenetic alopecia rat model[J]. China Journal of Leprosy and Skin Diseases, 2021, 37 (3) : 143-147,156. |
| [14] | Li Rongqun, Jing Zuo, Bu Xiawei, et al. Establishment and evaluation of baldness model of kidney asthenia male rats[J]. Acta Chinese Medicine, 2013, 28 (11) : 1669-1670,1780. |
| [15] | Zhang Yujun, Yang Zhizhen, Xie Mingming. Construction method of noninvasive animal model for simulating human androgenetic alopecia, the model and application thereof: CN 119157100A[P/OL]. 2024-12-20. |
| [16] |
Sundberg J P, Cordy W R, King L E. Alopecia areata in aging C3H/HeJ mice[J]. J. Invest. Dermatol., 1994, 102 (6) : 847-856.
pmid: 8006447 |
| [17] |
Sundberg J P, Awgulewitsch A, Pruett N D, et al. Crisp1 and alopecia areata in C3H/HeJ mice[J]. Exp. Mol. Pathol., 2014, 97 (3) : 525-528.
doi: 10.1016/j.yexmp.2014.10.010 pmid: 25446841 |
| [18] |
Paus R, Handjiski B, Eichmüller S, et al. Chemotherapy-induced alopecia in mice. Induction by cyclophosphamide, inhibition by cyclosporine A, and modulation by dexamethasone[J]. Am. J. Pathol., 1994, 144 (4) : 719-734.
pmid: 8160773 |
| [19] | Zheng Lingling, Li Wangting, Zhang Lulu, et al. Stability research on the construction of a mouse model for alopecia areata using two modeling methods with imiquimod[J]. Journal of Air Force Medical University, 2025, 46 (4) : 514-520. |
| [20] | Young K L, Kassouf C, Dolinska M B, et al. Human tyrosinase: Temperature-dependent kinetics of oxidase activity[J]. Int. J. Mol. Sci., 2020, 21 (3). |
| [21] | Peng Lihong, Wu Yongxuan, Ling Chuntao, et al. Effect of edaravone on 3-isobutyl-1-methylxanthine-induced melanogenesis in B16 cells[J]. Journal of Shantou University Medical College, 2025, 38 (1) : 1-5. |
| [22] | Xiong Miao, Xiong Xiaowen, Xu Lanjiao, et al. Effect of α-melanocyte stimulating hormone on cell proliferation and melanin synthesis in melanocytes from Taihe silky fowl skin[J]. Chinese Journal of Veterinary Science, 2016, 36 (3) : 496-503. |
| [23] | Zhang Ruzhi, Zhu Wenyuan, Ma Jia. Contact co-culture of human epidermal melanocytes and follicular keratinocytes[J]. Chinese Journal of Dermatology, 2006, 39 (10) : 596-599. |
| [24] |
Singh S K, Nizard C, Kurfurst R, et al. The silver locus product (Silv/gp100/Pmel17) as a new tool for the analysis of melanosome transfer in human melanocyte-keratinocyte co-culture[J]. Exp. Dermatol., 2008, 17 (5) : 418-426.
doi: 10.1111/j.1600-0625.2008.00702.x pmid: 18331332 |
| [25] | Deng Zhili, Xu San, Wu Zheng. A method for inducing a gray hair model: CN114467858A[P/OL]. 2022-05-13. |
| [26] | Wang Junjie, Wu Tao, Xie Mingjun, et al. Construction method exploration of mouse model of leukotrichia by combining disease differentiation and treatment[J]. Acta Chinese Medicine and Pharmacology, 2023, 51 (7) : 15-21. |
| [27] | Ju Junjun. Study on active components and mechanism of black sesame melanin to blacken hair[D]. Zhengzhou: Zhengzhou University, 2020. |
| [28] | Liu Luye, Yuan Jinxiang, Yuan Chuanjian, et al. Dynamic observation of skin and hair pigmentation on the back of mice treated with monobenzone, hydrogen peroxide and tretinoin[J]. Chinese Journal of Dermatovenereology of Integrated Traditional and Western Medicine, 2025, 24 (3) : 232-235. |
| [29] | Ding Xiaoyuan, Wu Mingming, Wang Jianqing. Therapeutic effect and mechanism of Xixian Xiaobai Beverage on vitiligo model mice through regulating silent information regulator 1/peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor y coactivator-1α pathway[J]. China Modern Medicine, 2024, 31 (5) : 14-18, 24. |
| [30] |
Saha B, Singh S K, Mallick S, et al. Sphingolipid-mediated restoration of Mitf expression and repigmentation in vivo in a mouse model of hair graying[J]. Pigment Cell Melanoma Res., 2009, 22 (2) : 205-218.
doi: 10.1111/pcr.2009.22.issue-2 |
| [31] |
Bennett D C, Lamoreux M L. The color loci of Mice-A genetic century[J]. Pigment Cell Res., 2003, 16 (4) : 333-344.
doi: 10.1034/j.1600-0749.2003.00067.x |
| [32] | Wang Yilin, Zhai Xi, Li Mengru, et al. Research progress on the relationship between Wnt/β-catenin pathway and vitiligo based on oxidative stress[J]. Journal of Dermatology and Venereology, 2023, 45 (5) : 315-318. |
| [33] | He Wangzehao. Clinical and basic research on the treatment of gray hair using topical minoxidil[D]. Guangzhou: Southern Medical University, 2024. |
| [34] | Hiramoto K, Yamate Y, Takishita Y, et al. The role of gp91phox and the effect of tranexamic acid administration on hair color in mice[J]. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 2019, 20 (11) : 2665. |
| [35] | Zi Yusha, Tang Xiaoqin, Chen Minghua. The mechanism of dandruff and research status of anti dandruff[J]. Guangdong Chemical Industry, 2020, 47 (17) : 97-99. |
| [36] | Lan Shihua, Wu Xiaoshi, Liu Jiaxin, et al. Inhibitory effect of water extract of terminalia chebula on malassezia globosa and biofilm[J]. Chinese Traditional and Herbal Drugs, 2023, 54 (8) : 2480-2487. |
| [37] | Zheng Xiaohui, Xia Xiujiao, Wang Zhidong, et al. Susceptibility testing of malassezia to seven antifungal agent in vitro[J]. The Chinese Journal of Dermatovenereology, 2006, 20 (2) : 75-76,79. |
| [38] |
Kulkarni M, Hastak V, Jadhav V, et al. Fenugreek leaf extract and its gel formulation show activity against malassezia furfur[J]. Assay Drug Dev. Technol., 2020, 18 (1) : 45-55.
doi: 10.1089/adt.2019.918 pmid: 31524496 |
| [39] |
Mayser P, Argembeaux H, Rippke F. The hair strand test-a new method for testing antifungal effects of antidandruff preparations[J]. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2003, 54 (3) : 263-270.
pmid: 12858225 |
| [40] | Huang Xin. Anti-malassezia actions of combination with ketoconazole, terbinafine and chinese herbal components[D]. Shanghai: Second Military Medical University, 2005. |
| [41] | Chen Mo, Jiang Dang, Huang Liang, et al. An in vitro biological model for evaluating anti-dandruff efficacy of shampoo[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2017, 47 (9) : 508-511. |
| [42] | Zhuang Zixiong, Zhan Suhui, Ma Manhua, et al. A review of research on evaluation methods for dandruff removal in cosmetics[J]. Guangdong Chemical Industry, 2024, 51 (21) : 93-94,79. |
| [43] | Zhang Hongyan, Wang Peng, Guo Ruoxi, et al. Methods on humans for evaluation of the efficacy of hair cosmetics[J]. Detergent & Cosmetics, 2021, 44 (12) : 50-53. |
| [44] | Suchonwanit P, Triyangkulsri K, Ploydaeng M, et al. Assessing biophysical and physiological profiles of scalp seborrheic dermatitis in the yhai population[J]. Biomed. Res. Int., 2019: 5128376. |
| [45] |
Meloni M, Balzaretti S, Collard N, et al. Reproducing the scalp microbiota community: Co-colonization of a 3D reconstructed human epidermis with C. acnes and M. restricta[J]. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 2021, 43 (2) : 235-245.
doi: 10.1111/ics.v43.2 |
| [46] |
Hu P, Henry J, Tiesman J P, et al. Scalp microbiome composition changes and pathway evaluations due to effective treatment with piroctone olamine shampoo[J]. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 2024, 46 (3) : 333-347.
doi: 10.1111/ics.v46.3 |
| [47] |
Yu H, Li J, Wang Y, et al. Dysbiosis and genomic plasticity in the oily scalp microbiome: A multi-omics analysis of dandruff pathogenesis[J]. Front Microbiol, 2025, 16: 1595030.
doi: 10.3389/fmicb.2025.1595030 |
| [48] | Saxena R, Mittal P, Clavaud C, et al. Longitudinal study of the scalp microbiome suggests coconut oil to enrich healthy scalp commensals[J]. Sci. Rep., 2021, 11 (1) : 7220. |
| [49] | Xie Xiaoyuan, Wang Ran, Lai Wei, et al. Study of efficacy evaluation method of anti-dandruff cosmetics[J]. Chinese Journal of Aesthetic Medicine, 2010, 19 (1) : 72-74. |
| [50] | Hair Research Group, Dermatology and Venereology Branch, Chinese Medical Association. Guideline for diagnosis and treatment of androgenetic alopecia (2023) [J]. Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 2024, 53 (12) : 752-758. |
| [51] | Zhao Liansen, Zhang Zerong, Liao Yong. Research progress on microneedling therapy for hair loss[J]. Journal of Practical Dermatology, 2024, 17 (4) : 221-225, 240. |
| [52] |
Kumari K M U, Yadav N P, Luqman S. Promising essential oils/plant extracts in the prevention and treatment of dandruff pathogenesis[J]. Current Topics in Medicinal Chemistry, 2022, 22 (13) : 1104-1133.
doi: 10.2174/1568026622666220531120226 pmid: 35642120 |
| [53] | Carolina C M, Desiree S C, Lexi D, et al. Incorporation of hair follicles in 3D bioprinted models of human skin[J]. Sci. Adv., 2023, 9 (41). |
| [54] |
Berezhnoi A, Aguirre J, Hindelang B, et al. Optical features of human skin revealed by optoacoustic mesoscopy in the visible and short-wave infrared regions[J]. Opt. Lett., 2019, 44 (17) : 4119-4122.
doi: 10.1364/OL.44.004119 pmid: 31465343 |
| [55] | Gupta A K, Ivanova I A, Renaud H J. How good is artificial intelligence (AI) at solving hairy problems? A review of AI applications in hair restoration and hair disorders[J]. Dermatol. Ther., 2021, 34 (2) : e14811. |
| [1] | Yingying Zhang, Yalin Wang, Bingtian Zhao, Lijuan Bao, Qianghua Quan, Juan Xu, Pei Lin. Anti-hair loss effects of a traditional Chinese medicine formula by regulating the hair follicle cycle and autophagy balance [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2026, 56(9): 1169-1179. |
| [2] | Shuyao Feng, Jianing Li, Zijuan Wang, Fei Jiang, Zhenshen Gao, Haijuan Zhang. Green synthesis, characterization and antibacterial activity of ellagic acid-modified silver nanoparticles [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2026, 56(9): 1180-1187. |
| [3] | Zhongliang Xu, Xiaoting Ren, Jinlong Liu, Xu Sun. Study on the improvement of cutaneous microcirculation and photodamage repair by low-molecular-weight heparin in mice [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2026, 56(9): 1207-1213. |
| [4] | Yuying Jia, Chencan Cao, Lei Liu. Study on the efficacy of carnosine, chlorogenic acid, and curcumin in an HFF-1 glycation-injured cell model [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2026, 56(9): 1214-1221. |
| [5] | Xiaona Pei, Yanfang Zhou, Linyuan Tian, Limin Fan. Evaluation of the multifunctional efficacy and matrix stability of the probiotic metabolite indole-3-lactic acid as a functional ingredient in oral care products [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2026, 56(9): 1222-1232. |
| [6] | Yuqi Li, Puyang Du, Yujia Guo, Huanhuan Zhao, Daopin Ma, Zhiwei Cheng. Plant-derived exosome-like nanovesicles in skincare: Mechanisms and applications [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2026, 56(9): 1242-1250. |
| [7] | Weiqing Zhang, Huijin Liu, Huan He, Lei Chen, Liying He, Simin Wang, Dan Liu, Fengping Pang, Keran Feng. Regulatory implications for cosmetic safety risks based on EU Safety Gate notification data [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2026, 56(9): 1251-1259. |
| [8] | Mengli Huang, Gaiqing Jiang, Xueyin Li, Bowen Zhang, Xiaojie Sun. Determination of 18 organophosphate esters in cosmetics by dispersive solid-phase extraction coupled with gas chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2026, 56(9): 1260-1268. |
| [9] | Mengxi Zhou, Jiale Wang, Yanfang Chen, Shifan Xue, Bingyu Wu, Da Wu. Determination of 83 fragrance allergens in fragrances, flavors, and cosmetic and personal care products by GC-MS/MS [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2026, 56(9): 1269-1280. |
| [10] | Lina Wang, Xiaoxue Cai, Xiaoqin Tang, Guodong Zhang, Chunying Zheng. Construction of pH-responsive pseudo-Gemini surfactants: exploring microscopic mechanisms for enhancing hair conditioner performance [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2026, 56(8): 1019-1026. |
| [11] | Yuanyuan Fang, Qian Zhang, Mengxue Gao, Yubing Wang, Xiaowei Chang. A plant-derived complex attenuates surfactant-induced scalp sensitivity: efficacy and underlying mechanisms [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2026, 56(8): 1027-1037. |
| [12] | Xiaoqin Tang, Lina Wang, Xiaoxue Cai, Guodong Zhang, Chunying Zheng. Phase structure of hair conditioner formulation models and its impact on performance [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2026, 56(8): 1038-1043. |
| [13] | Fei Zhou, Zongyan Liu, Mingying Yu, Lichuan Zhang, Jingyi Guo, Yina Lu. Study on the anti-aging and firming efficacy of Saururus chinensis extract [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2026, 56(8): 1044-1052. |
| [14] | Zhiming He, Jiawen Huang, Yi Zhan, Desong Wu, Yufeng Zha. Comparative study on the soothing efficacy of different extracts of Panax notoginseng [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2026, 56(8): 1053-1061. |
| [15] | Siying Li, Han Wu, Chang Xu, Xiaojing Pei. Applications and research advances of nucleic acids and their derivatives in the beauty and health sector [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2026, 56(8): 1083-1092. |
|