Abstract:

Nucleic acids and their derivatives have become high-value emerging ingredients in cosmetics, medical aesthetics, and functional foods due to their multifaceted biological activities in promoting tissue repair, providing antioxidant effects, and regulating gene expression. This review systematically categorizes nucleosides, nucleotides, DNA, RNA, polydeoxyribonucleotide （PDRN）, and polynucleotide （PN）, as well as structurally distinct nucleic acid materials including framework nucleic acids （FNAs）, aptamers, and nucleic acid hydrogels. Key sources and preparation methods are summarized: PDRN is primarily extracted from fish or plant tissues, with plant sources requiring additional cell wall degradation; RNA is obtained through yeast fermentation and salt precipitation; β-nicotinamide mononucleotide （NMN） and oligonucleotides rely on enzymatic catalysis or chemical synthesis. In terms of mechanisms of action, PDRN regulates inflammatory responses and collagen synthesis by specifically activating adenosine A₂A receptors; framework nucleic acids promote cell migration and wound healing by activating the AKT signaling pathway; and yeast RNA exhibits immunomodulatory and tissue regenerative functions. In terms of application, PDRN is used in medicine to promote wound healing and cartilage repair; PN injections demonstrate superior skin rejuvenation effects compared to those of hyaluronic acid in medical aesthetics; and PDRN-fortified beverages in functional foods show potential for enhancing metabolism and protecting gastric mucosa. Although challenges persist in areas such as ingredient stability, skin permeability, large-scale production costs, and regulatory evaluation, ongoing breakthroughs in nanotechnology, synthesis processes, and delivery systems, coupled with deepening industry-academia-research collaborations, hold promise for overcoming existing technical barriers. Nucleic acid ingredients are poised to demonstrate broader application prospects and commercial value in the beauty and health sectors, driving innovation toward precision, intelligence, and efficiency in product formulations.

Key words: nucleic acids and their derivatives, biological activity, beauty and wellness sector, skin care mechanism, application progress